We were up early again, a shopping list for provisions to get us back to London was made and Mick headed out after breakfast to Waitrose for a free newspaper. Rain had been forecast for today, Mick managed to avoid the worst of it, but still came back wet.
Says Snap to me
It’s been a few weeks since we have sat down and been a full part of the Geraghty zoom on a Saturday morning, so today we made sure we wouldn’t be moving. Todays topics, chicken pox, ankle biting sisters, it was lovely to see everyone again.
The winding hole that used to stretch to Sainsburys
Time to make our move, we pushed off backwards at around 11am, reversing to the winding hole and then pulled in at the services. With the water tank filling we emptied the yellow water tank, Tilly got a clean pooh box and we disposed of rubbish.
There was one other gap in the moorings this morning, NB Small World had pulled away, we’d be following them back down the locks. Back past all the warehousey apartments. I think one boat really could do with a new chimney before winter, at least his bathroom door was in place today! No gongoozlers to keep us company at the locks as we made our way out of Bishop Stortford.
Bridge 47 is exceptionally narrow, made from what should be called a ‘T’ beam, the top being a touch wider than the bottom.
Hold on tight!
Approaching Spellbrook Lock a Dad was paddle boarding with his son clinging on for dear life, we made sure we drifted past them the little lads knuckles already white!
A group were fishing from the lock landing, so we slowly came in, nowhere else to drop me off, they moved to let us pull up and chatted away. Someone has added cable ties to the pawls, quite a good solution to be able to lift them without getting very greasy fingers.
Flying in
Saturday is obviously a busy day at Stanstead Airport at the moment. Those heading back with Ryan Air from a week in the sun kept the sky full of planes coming in to land. Then once we were meandering our way towards Tednambury Lock they started to take off in our direction.
Weighted down
All the boats were still on the meadows. The one moored quite a long way out is tied to the bank but also has a couple of mud weights out to stop them moving too much.
Waiting at Tednambury Lock
At Tednambury Lock we caught up with NB Small World again, apparently the river had been quite busy this morning, most probably boats coming out from Hallingbury Marina close by. My friend Mike had been on a friends boat earlier in the year and sent me a photo of NB Dorcas pulled in on the lock landing above. Today I recreated the photo, except mine had grey skies not blue.
Mick pulled electric cables and weed off the prop as the lock filled and just managed to pull away off the landing before a wide beam arrived. However the prop soon got fouled again, our progress downstream slower than upstream, but we hoped there would be space for us above Sawbridgeworth Lock.
Thankfully there was plenty of room, a hand from a chap on the bank helped to pull Oleanna into the side as by now there was almost no steering due to weed on the prop, something to clear before we move onwards tomorrow.
Wonder how many litres of white paint that takes
A very late lunch whilst Tilly explored the area and some quinoa cooked for a salad later.
I headed out for a walk crossing the lock and walking down Mill Lane, aptly named as it starts on the lock island, the weir behind it used for power at what look to be couple of old mills. The buildings are now pristine white with white flowering hanging baskets, a stopped clock and a mechanism that must have powered machinery in one of the mills. Ransomes and Rapier were known for their railway and crane equipment, but in early days they made saw-milling machinery.
I walked past thatched cottages and through 1920’s estates many of the houses displaying sunbeams on their walls. At Sheering Mill bridge I thought I’d walk through the apartments to reach the Maltings, but big signs suggested I’d not be welcome and that I’d need a key fob to exit at the far end. So I turned round and walked along the river bank instead, I could look at the gated community from the other bank where NB Small World was nestled for the remainder of the day.
Nestled in amongst the nettles
I had a quick walk around the Maltings, numerous antique shops to look at tomorrow and what smelt like a very good Indian Take Away. I was tempted but we ate out yesterday and the quinoa would be cool enough to make into a salad back at the boat, it didn’t stop me looking at their menu though!
Glad of a clean window to look out of
Meanwhile in Scarborough and along the North Yorkshire Coast, Animated Objects Theatre Company are touring their ‘A Thousand Ships’ exhibition. This weekend they are in the Brunswick Centre in Scarborough, tables filled with the origami boats all made by people from the Yorkshire Coast. This is part of a much bigger project The Odyssey which is running over the next few years.
My design for ‘A Thousand Ships’
4 locks, 4.53 miles, 1 wind, 1st Saturday paper in a while, 1st full zoom for a while, 1 empty wee tank, 1 full water tank, 1 clean pooh box, 2 boaters staying dry, 25 planes, 1000 ships, 2 mills, 2 moustaches, 1 tall aerial, 1 maine coon, 1 Tilly stood down and brought inside, 1 fisty paws avoided.
Footbridge 28 to Bishop Stortford, the end of navigation
Hello!
A little face kept watch on us approaching his boat this morning. He then popped back inside as we passed, maybe Tilly was giving him the what for out of a window.
More buttons to press
Sheering Mill Lock was our first and it took me by surprise as I needed a key to work both the bottom gates and the bottom paddles. I signalled back to Mick and then went to close the top gates. As we worked our way up a C&RT van arrived alongside the lock with a big bag of aggregate or sand in the back, a work boat was moored on the weir cut, they would bring it round to off load the bag once we were out of the way.
Now in Sawbridgeworth we looked for a mooring for a few hours. The chap on a red boat had told us we should visit the mills here, good antique shops, well worth a nosy. We spotted the mills and the moorings alongside modern apartments where signs say not to moor. Then ambiguous signs about Private Mooring, 2 days? We were puzzled, could we stop or not? The one visitor mooring was taken, so we carried on to Sawbridgeworth Lock, a neat and tidy lock with cottages over looking it.
Sawbridgeworth Lock
At the end of a line of boats there was a space that would have suited us, but we decided to save a visit to the mills for our way back down stream. Instead today we’d get to Bishop Stortford.
Clare on NB Billy had warned us of more low bridges and sure enough they were low with lovely sticky outy bits.
Pretty but not so good for horses
Tednambury Lock is overlooked at a distance by a house on a hill, the field between filled with yellow ragwort. A gate on the bridge over the bottom of the lock deters loads of more than 3 tonnes and an old garden gate has been reused on the path up through the field.
Planks at full stretch
The river meanders round, several boats were moored on the meadows here and had carved themselves seating areas in the long grass. A leap of faith required to reach dry land, some leaps were bigger than others!
By Spellbrook Lock we’d picked up a prop full of weed again. So once Oleanna had settled at the top Mick lifted the weed hatch to free it up. A long straight above the lock showed an oncoming boat, a blue one, could it be NB Misty Blue and Graeme? It was, he slowly made his way towards the lock as I wound paddles down and waited for Mick to finish. This would be the last time up here that our paths would cross, Graeme covering the water quicker than us, so it was farewells for now. We’ll meet somewhere else, sometime. Enjoy the rest of the summer Graeme.
Gongoozling
Organised Gongoozlers sat waiting at the next lock, a flask and mugs for a morning coffee break in the sunshine watching the boats. We seemed to be hot on the heals of another boat who were also on their first trip up the river. A couple with their two kids also stood and watched, their daughter in a push chair seemed uninterested until she spotted Oleanna at the bottom of the lock when she gave out a loud happy screech!
At Southmill Lock the last on the river we caught up with the boat ahead. NB Small World, we hadn’t seen them since Broxbourne and had assumed they’d headed up the Lee, but no they must have just been setting off at a similar time to us a short distance ahead.
Approaching South Mill Lock
The route into Bishop Stortford is mostly surrounded by new warehousy type flats, maybe developers are encouraged to try to replicate the past. A zigzaggy bridge from the millennium crosses the river alongside original mills and leads it’s way towards the station.
The structure of Millennium Bridge and the Mills
A boat pulled out in front of us having just finished at the services, he then winded with hindrance from the wind and headed back towards us. One spot left right at the end of the moorings facing the end of the navigation. Rings are provided, but nestled in amongst nettles, someone could really do with strimming the moorings!
Those nettles would keep a hot compost bin happy
Sadly for Tilly the Health and Safety committee deemed the moorings to be unsuitable so they then had to put up with feline protests for an hour or two.
Our nosy neighbour across the way
I think it was thirty years ago I had my first professional design job for Snap Theatre Company who were based in Bishop Stortford. My interview necessitated me removing my portfolio from the final exhibition at college whist marking was happening. When I showed my folio to the Artistic Director of Snap there were certain things I couldn’t show him. A prop design of a barbers chair for my final project at college wouldn’t have been good as it was a theoretical design for the Olivier at the National Theatre, if I was actually designing for the National, why was I at an interview for a youth theatre summer school production of The Tempest!
Mills
I spent two/ three weeks in digs here, I can’t remember where abouts now. Much of the town centre has changed, I can’t even remember where the office was where I had to leave the van each night, Sainsburys has certainly moved. The Artistic Director, Andy Graham has also moved, a Google search shows him now to be working near to Chipping Norton of all places!
Bare tarmac
We had a wonder around the town, a few places sparking memories. The old mills now house a dance school and Chinese restaurant among other things. We crossed the zigzagging bridge and across the vast car park. Huge areas are set out for season ticket holders. Many of the spaces were empty as people now work from home, or maybe they were used by airline staff, not so many flights from Stanstead.
River Stort
Beyond the A1250 road bridge that cuts the navigation off is Castle Gardens. We walked alongside the river, now far too shallow for any but model boats. This however looks like a new course for the river. There had been a channel that went under the road, but on the 1892-1914 OS 25 inch map it shows the river coming into town a bit further west. Sainsburys now sits on top of the Terminus Basin and the winding hole is where you turned off to it.
Getting out of puff might have been worth it for the views
Sadly the castle had closed for the day, so no views from the top of the mound for us.
My pizza was half the size of Mick’s!
We decided to eat out tonight, a proper pizza for Mick and a gluten free one for me at Pizza Express. This used to be an old favourite, it feels like we’ve not been to one in years, possibly true. The photo is deceptive due to perspective. I had an ample amount of food, Mick had a bit too much!
A bee enjoying the pretty flowers
Oh what did I buy?
……….. a spatula! What else!
6 locks, 5.74 miles,2 boats coming down, 2 days or maybe not, 5C less, 0 shore leave, 2 tideway boats, 30 years ago, 1 spatula, 1 castle, 1 river rerouted, 2 pizzas, 1 bored cat.
Broxbourne Bridge to above Hunsdon Mill Lock 12, River Stort
A bright array of towels
A haze rose from the canal this morning. Luckily for us the rain hadn’t continued through the night so we managed to get some sleep. Each night seems to be getting that little bit cooler from the last thankfully.
First lock of the day Carthagena Lock. Heavy flexing gates that didn’t want to come out of their recesses. Mick ended up having to climb a ladder to come and help, one gate simply wasn’t going to shift without two of us. The RSJ has an infill where you normally push them open, but with two of us there wasn’t enough, so I got lean on a section not filled in, quite painful really. At least we got the bloomin thing moving in the end.
Still wearing my boaters PPE a year later
Above Dobbs Weir Lock webs of electricity had been spun above our heads. So many lines in different directions, below Rye House Substation was the reason.
Webs of Power
Not far now to Feilde’s Lock where we topped up the water tank and disposed of our rubbish whilst the lock emptied. Here we had a choice, leftish on the Lea towards Ware and Hertford or right towards Bishop Stortford. Right was the decision.
The River Stort was used to transport malt to London. In 1766 an Act of Parliament was passed which enabled the River Stort to be made navigable to Bishop Stortford. 15 wooden locks were built, parts of the river rerouted and dredged. Three basins were built at Bishop Stortford, the work finally completed in 1769 at the cost of £100,000.
Feildes Weir
In 1811 and 12 attempts were made to extend the navigation to Cambridge and beyond via the River Cam, but the finances of over £0.5 million were never raised so the project was dropped.
Lower Lock
The locks were built for barges of 70 to 86ft long and 13.25 ft wide which carried around 60 tons of cargo. The width of the locks now means that they are not wide enough for two narrowboats to share, but are wide enough to require you to open both gates, top and bottom.
Brick Lock until a few days ago required assistance from C&RT to pass through. Today one of the top paddles is out of action, covered up in a C&RT aware yellow bag. As we set the lock, emptying water out we could see that the top cill either has lots of detritus on it or will fail at some point soon, plenty of water billowing up from under the gate. This made opening the bottom gates hard, exacerbated by a large amount of weed covering the off side sluice opening.
Brick Lock
When Mick brought Oleanna into the lock he did his best to clear the weed, hopefully the next boat through won’t have as much difficulty as we did.
On the sign post for the lock is an explanation of the Navigation Warning System. It is a standard Green amber red system, but it is used the opposite way round to most river level boards. This is positioned under the next bridge and shows you if you have enough air drought to get under the Railway Bridge a short distance on. Back in 2015 we passed under the railway bridge as it was raining, the river rising overnight and Brick lock closing the following Monday for maintenance. When we woke in the morning we decided to return and limbo back under the bridge for fear we might get stuck for weeks if not. Lillian cleared the bridge with not much to spare.
Plenty of room above the buckets
Fortunately for us last night thunderstorms hadn’t brought the river up too much, so we passed under with quite a bit of space above our black buckets.
Up Roydon Lock and on past meadows to Hunsdon Lock where lads were playing in the stream alongside, they came over and offered to lend a hand with the gates.
Hunsdon Lock
This is where we’d been aiming for, hoping the tree coverage would be good and that there would be space for us. Fortunately there was and we remained in the shade for all but an hour all afternoon.
Despite the woofer a good mooring
There were a few boats, all who seemed to know each other, everyone knew Dave and Ted his dog. Dave is an old hand at canal life, very friendly and has been helping others to paint their boat. Ted was kept on a lead or indoors all afternoon, but we were warned that he would be allowed free reign in the evening. This was fine as Tilly would hopefully be home for her dingding at around 6, when the doors would close behind her, so Ted could run as free as he liked.
With food supplies running a touch low, I cobbled together some chicken marinated in not quite Jerk seasoning, due to the lack of chillies. As the drum sticks cooked away in a pan on the stove we had a frequent visitor. Ted could smell the cooking through the open window, the only thing stopping him from coming to sample our dinner was the blind. It was quite funny as whenever I heard Ted being called by the others on the towpath, there he was watching my every move through the blind
Ted enjoying the smell
.
I’m very pleased to report to Ted that my not quite Jerk Chicken with rice and peas was very tasty, if I can remember what went into it I’ll make it again sometime.
From Saturday Hammersmith Bridge will be reopening to pedestrians, cyclists and river traffic. Engineers have deemed the bridge safe to reopen “safety risk is kept acceptably low” due to a temperature control system on the anchor chains and the use of acoustic sensors which have been installed to issue alerts on further crack movements. These are only temporary measures and a more permanent repair is needed. The Department of Transport is willing to foot a third of the repair bill of £161million, but TFL and the local Council are struggling to foot the remainder.
Whilst we waited for an engineer to visit I had a long chat regarding panto props with Jo the props maker. Last year Jo, as so many others, had to find work elsewhere to help ends meet. From being a receptionist at a holiday park to delivering prescriptions she has survived. Still working part time she is now starting to take on bits of theatre work, which I am relieved about as I really enjoy working with Jo. We talked hobby horses, tea cosies, silver cross prams along with stretchable rhubarb and inflatable radishes.
Staying safely out of the way
I had planned to be out whilst the engineer was here, but I was busy talking giant strawberries when he arrived. Mick had pulled the washing machine out of it’s cupboard, moved all our bedding and mattresses out of the way to make more space. The front door was open and he removed the glass from our bedroom window, so there was plenty of fresh air.
Tilly and I sat on the other side of the bathroom door listening to the beeps from the engineers tester. All the cables and connections were checked, he was testing everything for over an hour. In the end he suspects it’s a circuit board that has gone, nothing he could mend today unfortunately. Someone will call us tomorrow with a quote for a new board and fitting it.
Hmm, what to do? It’s handy being here where it’s easy to arrange an engineer to visit, but we really would like to move on. Some more than others!
Mick spent some of the afternoon trying to source the circuit board himself, fairly sure he’d be able to install it, which would save a call out fee. He only found one which was a reconditioned board, we’ll wait to see what the quote is tomorrow.
Time for a walk. I’d spotted Camden Garden Centre on a map, hopefully they’d be able to sell me another trough so that I could plant on the other half of the strawberry plants I bought weeks ago at Barton Turns. The others I’d replanted are now double the size, sending out babies and new shoots are coming up too.
St Pancras Gardens and the workhouse
My route took me across St Pancras Gardens. Here large buildings back onto the grassy area, these were the dormitory blocks for St Pancras Workhouse, they were built around 1890 and added an extension to the already existing workhouse. The original workhouse in 1777 housed 120 inmates, over the next ten years this increased, they were sleeping five to six in a bed! Buildings came and went. Oliver Twist may have been based on the story of Robert Blincoe, a child inmate from here.
Today it is now St Pancras Hospital which occupies many of the Victorian buildings.
Over the canal I soon came across the Garden Centre filled with plants, cactus, pots and troughs, the later perfect for my strawberry plants.
I then had a wander around the area. A hand car wash place had a rather lovely Jaguar outside. Several pubs looked quite inviting. Oh and NB Small World had found another mooring.
I then spied the blue houses that sit behind the modern apartments, so I walked round the back of them onto Lyme St. Sadly the access to the houses is gated off so not much to see. But between the buildings on Lyme St I could see the back of the houses, here there appears to be a modern building at their rear.
It’s really quite large the building behind the cottages
A look at Google maps later shows it as a big building and checking on Street view it looks like it is The Workshop at 183 Royal College Street. Things were now starting to look familiar. It turns out that The Workshop was featured on Grand Designs, formerly a furniture workshop, it was rebuilt as a family home and architectural studio designed by architect Henning Stummel. Nothing what so ever to do with the blue cottages that face the canal. If you are interested here is a link for more information.
Access to The Workshop
0 locks, 0 miles, 90 minutes talking props, 70 minutes diagnostic engineer, 1 circuit board, or could it be the other 1? 6 to a bed, 2 churches, 1 trough, 3 plants replanted, 1 bag of compost now required, 2 blue houses, 1 grand design hidden away, 1956 Jaguar XK140 Coupe, £35 to 40k back in 2008.
Mick rang back a company he’d tried yesterday to see when an engineer might be able to come out to look at our dead washer/dryer. We’d been given several options yesterday regarding payment and we’d decided that £125 to fix it wasn’t too bad, a new one being at least £300, if they couldn’t fix it then £55 would be the call out charge. However when he tried calling the department to see when they would be able to visit the phone just rang and rang and rang. He gave up.
Not much of a view in St Pants
Google suggested several other firms. ‘Sorry we don’t cover that area’ was quite a common response. Others suggested they’d be able to get someone out to us this afternoon. ‘What’s your postcode?’ This was given, handy to be at the Cruising Club and have an address. Then Mick would say we were on a boat. ‘Oh, we don’t do boats. Houses yes, boats no!’
St Pancras Lock
A notice was put on the London Boaters group, but the only suggestion was to buy a new one as they are so cheap now. We’d rather see if it can be mended, but we might just be giving someone some money to look at a totally dead machine.
Eventually a company was found who didn’t have a problem coming out to us on a boat. An appointment made for tomorrow afternoon. Mick called the Harbour Master, Tony to see if we could stay a bit longer in the basin. This was fine and a key holder for the gate into the car park would be found to let the engineer in.
Mick headed off to find a new connecting hose for the washing machine, a longer one would help when pulling it out from it’s cupboard. 2.5m would do and be handy even if we end up having to buy a new machine.
Hello!
Back onboard I, at last, had a chat with Gemma (Production Manager for Panto). We talked painting the set, a quote for more than my design fee had come in from a scenic artist. I know you can earn more money painting than designing, but when I’d already said I’d paint the show for a top up on my fee! Logistics in our pandemic world make things a little more complicated than before, but hopefully with a bit of thought things will work out.
Not being much of an assistant
I decided that as we wouldn’t be moving today that I’d do some work. The drawing board came out and my assistant sat by and watched as I drew up some basic plans for the set of #unit 21. This didn’t take too long, I just need to get them scanned now and sent off for a friend in Leeds to give me a quote.
Mick had another trip to make to Christine’s. A new propmate had arrived for us to replace the one now sat on the bottom of Limehouse Basin. The design has changed a bit since we bought our original one. Now made from pipe with a bent handle and it comes with a wrist strap already attached! Hopefully this one will be with us for longer than the old one.
Being cooped up in the boat all day I had a walk around the Kings Cross development. A meander of a walk took me through the new buildings, many empty. Landscaping and seating is everywhere making for a green environment.
Wish I could look inside
I walked past York Road Station, one of the original stations on the Great Northern, Piccadilly and Brompton Railway. Opened in 1906 it was designed by Leslie Green and connected to the platforms by two lifts. It closed in 1932, discussions have been made about reopening it, but as it’s quite close to Kings Cross the £21million (2005 estimate) needed to bring it up to modern day standards it is unlikely to happen.
Cinema across the water
A cinema screen plays to an audience on the steps across the canal. A couple of films are shown a day along with the Tour De France at lunchtimes. All the restaurants and bars were packed, as much as they can be and the whole area had a hubhub about it.
Art covers walls and expensive shops fill an area which used to be full of railway lines delivering coal.
It being Wednesday night it was club night at the Waterpoint the old water tower that overlooks the basin. A glass of wine and being sociable was on the cards, hopefully with a visit to the roof of the tower.
Looking SW
Our luck was in and we got shown up onto the roof. From here views down to St Pancras Station, BT tower, a bit of the London Eye and the numerous cranes which are on the site of the new Google building.
Looking SSE
Northwards is mostly railways and tower blocks, but all the same with the sun gradually going down it was still quite a sight.
Ballcock
The roof is what used to be the water tank which used to hold 17,000 gallons of water which was used to fill the tanks of the steam locomotives. In one corner is the ballcock, pretty much like a toilet ballcock only far bigger!
St Pancras Station
The tower used to be situated along the lines at St Pancras, however it was in the way of the Channel Tunnel Rail Link HS1 so it had to be moved. The tower was split into three, the top two layers moved to behind the lock cottage. A new bottom third was built and the top two thirds were craned in on top. The Cruising Club are custodians of the water tower, it is currently their club house. You’ll find it open to the public several times a year.
Looking NNE
The whole area around Kings Cross was a huge coal depot. Where the basin is now used to have railtracks running over the top of it. The gas holders have been moved from their original site and new buildings built within them to suggest the old tanks. Using this link you can see how much the area has changed since 1892 by sliding the button on the bottom left.
Today a new C&RT notice came in
Aire & Calder Navigation Main Line Location: Lock 11, Ferrybridge Flood Lock, Aire & Calder Navigation
Navigation Closure
Monday 19 July 2021 08:00 until Friday 13 August 2021 16:00
A stoppage is required to replace the downstream gates and cills. Check and repair downstream sluices.
Here’s hoping the end of this stoppage coincides with the breach site reopening.
0 locks, 0 miles, 0 washing machine, 1 engineer booked, 2 new quotes, 1 conversation, 1 set drawn up, 16 more panto photos, 1 dormant station, 2 glasses up on the roof.
With the majority of St Pancras boats moving off this morning, Mick had offered to lock wheel as we’d be staying put. He was up and off at 8am to help NB Coracle and NB Albert Victor up the Hanwell flight.
David on NB Albert Victor
I stayed put as it was a Dreamie day for Tilly. She’d been cooped up inside for too many days and deserved to have a day of shore leave, which also means she gets to have a lot of ‘Thank you for coming home’ Dreamies. When Tilly is out it means one of us is in, just in case a rescue is required!
Andrew on NB Coracle
Several local cats were spotted during the morning, but thankfully no spats occurred.
Whilst I busied myself with writing up yesterdays cruise Mick worked boats up the locks. At around 9am NB Misty Blue who’d moored behind us pushed off to join NB Mobius to climb the flight, they were then followed by NB Chance. Mick worked boats up the flight of 6, leaving them to ascend Hanwell Lock and Norwood Top Lock so that he could help the following boats.
Bye Bye NB Misty Blue
Mid afternoon Tilly had returned for a snooze so we took the opportunity to head off for a walk around Hanwell. First port of call was Mick’s old flat, just up the road from The Fox. Then where?
By his old front door
A few days ago I’d spotted mention of Hanwell Zoo on Google maps, so we headed in that direction, ducking down under the Uxbridge Road alongside the River Brent and into Brent Meadow where a Dad was trying to amuse his kids by launching a kite, he was unsuccessful.
Under Wharncliffe Viaduct which was built in 1836 by Isambard Kingdom Brunel to carry the new Great Western Railway from Paddington. 40 years later the viaduct had to be widened to accommodate growing rail traffic, you can see the join. It is said that Queen Victoria would ask for her train to be stopped on the viaduct so that she could admire the view. Today it looks like it needs a good weed and the trees would need cutting back a touch to admire the vista.
Into Brent Lodge Park. Areas mown, others left to grow. We walked up to St Mary’s Church. Originally a Georgian Church it was deemed too small for it’s congregation and in 1842 was replaced with a design by George Gilbert Scott with flint walls and white brick quoins. A rather pretty church, although the doors look like they’ve been painted with ultramarine poster paint!
ZOO!
Next it was time to check out the Zoo. Now I say zoo, but Mick insists on calling it the Bunny Park. Apparently everyone calls it the Bunny Park! All of Mick’s sisters will know it as the Bunny Park, but I bet none of the kids there did as a big mosaic sign boasts it’s name as Hanwell Zoo, not one bunny in view!
Well actually nothing much was in view but a couple of red billed birds as the ZOO is only open to pre-booked visitors. The Six Banded Armadillo (not a bunny) would have to wait for another time.
We refrained from getting lost
Instead we got ourselves some chilled medication, triple chocolate in a stale cone for Mick and pistachio in a tub for me.
Medication!
We then retraced our steps up to St Mary’s and then wiggled our way back through the streets of Hanwell, passing many pretty terraced houses with original front doors, back to the river then the canal and Oleanna.
Coal Boat
A roast chicken was popped in the oven, coming out at 8pm. It feels like an absolute age since I’ve cooked a proper meal. Plenty of chicken to last us through the coming days. Later Mick settled down to watch the later part of the football whilst I continued writing up our cruise yesterday.
Roast Chicken, squash, carrots, new potatoes, garlic and cabbage, YUM!
0 locks, 12 helped with, 9 hours shore leave, 5 taken, 1 long post, 2 many photos to choose from, 0 bunnies, 2 scoops, still 0 bunnies, 2 blue doors, 1 large roast chicken, 22 Dreamies, 1 quiet day.
A photo heavy post! If you click on a photo it should enlarge.
Limehouse Basin to Ontario Bridge 205A Grand Union Canal
Not much of view this morning!
Tilly seemed keen to be out this morning despite the not so inviting view from our bedroom window. Today we’d be heading out onto the Tidal Thames so no shore leave for cats, no matter how much they shout!
One of the last jobs to do today was put Tilly’s escape pod back together ready should there be any necessity to abandon ship. She also quite likes to sit in there anyway.
Final briefing
At 10:30 all crews congregated in the car park for our final briefing. An extra sheet of paper was passed round which detailed the distances between bridges on our cruise upstream. We were reminded to keep looking behind us as that is where the danger can lie, make sure our anchors were actually attached to our boats and just to hold our course and not to turn into waves as they can come from any and every direction. VHF radios were handed to crew who didn’t have their own, ship to ship being on channel 8.
Simon watching the lock open up
St Pancras Leader, Simon, would radio VTS (Vessel Traffic Service) when they left the lock and the third lock leader would do the same when the last and final boat entered the tide way, Tail end Charlie would be Oleanna today. There wouldn’t be much commercial traffic on the river, but plenty of Clippers and speed boats. The weather forecast wasn’t so good, everyone prepared for rain which was just trying to start.
Moving into position
The first locking of four boats was at 11:15. Limehouse Lock can hold three narrowboats abreast and as two boats were short they could sit one behind the other. We watched as the boats pulled into the lock, each passing ropes round the risers on the lock walls, these are positioned directly under the bollards above.
Waiting for NB Chance to take her position in the lock
The pull as the lock starts to empty, radial gates not paddles, is strong necessitating ropes needing to be passed round a T stud to help you keep hold.
We watched as the lock emptied and then the boats departed. NB Thermopylae led the way followed by NB Chance, NB Misty Blue and NB Mobius brought up the rear. Each boat motoring out of the lock and turning right onto the Thames keeping a distance between each other.
Next lock full
The next boats were ready and waiting for the lock to be refilled, we headed back to Oleanna for a final briefing with our second mate, move the towline to the bow and untie ourselves from the mooring.
Oleanna looking forward to her trip up the Thames
Tilly was warned that that the outside we’d be moving today was likely to be quite lumpy bumpy for a while, she retired to her escape pod and waited to see what happened.
NB Coracle was lead boat, followed by NB Small World then us at the very back. As the lock gates fully opened Andrew on NB Coracle said ‘Let’s go boating!’ It was 11:48 we were 15 minutes ahead of schedule.
Leaving Limehouse Lock, the river was big but not as big as leaving Goole
I closed the cratch cover up and moved through Oleanna to the stern. I was soon pleased that I’d thought to move bottles from the galley shelves and counter tops as the river was most certainly lumpy. We turned into the flow of the tide heading upstream.
Speed boats zipped past their wakes moving across the river. They were towards the south bank, we were towards the north bank, the waves kept coming and coming, first this way then that.You said it was going to be lumpy! You didn’t say that we would be looping the loop!!!!
Tilly wasn’t happy, she was shouting at the back doors! I have to admit that I wasn’t too happy either as Oleanna rose and fell with the waves. Please excuse the out of focusness of this footage as my camera had no idea what it should focus on! This is by far the lumpiest water we’ve encountered. As a child I used to be seasick every time I even stood near to a boat, so today I did my best to keep calm and looked round at everything to keep my mind off the swell.
We fell in line behind the lead boat and NB Small World, one yellow buoy coming a touch close to us. The river was moving us along, at one point I couldn’t hear the engine, Mick had put Oleanna into tickover as we had been gaining on the boat ahead.
Behind us Canary Wharf, ahead old warehouses, the River Police jetty.
Shard ahead
The Shard came into view, then as we rounded the bend at Wapping the view opened out.
Quite a view!
The Walkie Talkie, St Pauls, BT Tower, City Hall and of course Tower Bridge. Wow!
Dora May just off centre with a blue and cream wheelhouse
At Tower Moorings we tried to spot Dora May that used to belong to my friend Kathy. She is still moored there, wheelhouse positioned with a great view over to Tower Bridge.
Just look at that! Tower Bridge built between 1886 and 1894
We managed to line ourselves up briefly for a photo we’ve been dreaming of for years, under the central span of Tower Bridge.
Then we got back in line with the two boats ahead and headed for span 1 to the north side. It is quite an impressive bridge to walk over, but more so to pass under.
We waved to the south bank of the river where Mick’s sister Christine had positioned herself.
Christine’s over there somewhere!
No chance of spotting her, but thankfully she spotted us.
There we are
Past the clipper terminal
Tower of London
I especially like the one in front of the Tower of London.
HMS Belfast and The Shard
The bridges now come thick and fast as did the swell.
Bridges lining up ahead
Trying to take photos clinging on, trying to stay upright at times was quite hard.
London Bridge Hospital looks like a new coat of white paint has been added, keeping it crisply clean, soon followed by Hays Wharf. This wonderful deco building once a wharf now contains consulting rooms and the cardiology department for the hospital.
Follow my leader under the correct spans of the bridges as waves buffeted themselves against Oleanna.
Tate Modern (opened 2000) and the wibbly wobbly Millennium Bridge (opened 2000, reopened 2002).
The Samuel Pepys pub is where Mick used to drink when he worked almost next door for BT in the red brick building.
More bridges, more sights, more big trip boats.
Pillars where old railway bridges used to be. The Oxo tower (originally a power station supplying the Post Office, built at the end of the 19th Century) more shiny tower blocks.
Waterloo Bridge (opened 1942, fully opened 1945), The National Theatre (opened 1976). Have to say I was a touch disappointed that the National hadn’t brought the horses out from War Horse onto the terrace to see us pass as they did for the Queen!
Not much traffic behind
Frequent glances behind brought different views as well as checking if we were being followed.
Hungerford Bridge (opened 1864) and the Golden Jubilee Bridges (completed 2002)
Then Hungerford Bridge and the Golden Jubilee Bridges. Were we early? We looked up as we came under the bridge.
A pair of shoes, legs, a radio 2 news presenter stood phone in hand ready to capture us as we passed below.
The London Eye (opened 2000), County Hall (1922), Tattershall Castle (a steamer built in 1934 and was used as a Humber Ferry) and onwards to the Houses of Parliament (finished in 1860) and Westminster Bridge (opened 1862).
Heading up stream
Such a shame Big Ben is still swathed in scaffolding, maybe we’ll just have to come and do the trip again in the latter part of 2022!
As we passed the exclusion zone in front of the Houses of Parliament I shouted out a few comments to those who run our country. I so hope they heard and will take heed of my words!
Under Lambeth Bridge ( 1932) with the MI5 offices (1929) with it’s gold roof.
Tamesis Dock
A boat sat out of the water a structure held it upright. I wonder if those eating and drinking at Tamesis Dock knew they weren’t afloat.
Mick tried pointing out another building he used to work in. ‘That one with all the windows’! It turns out Mick used to work next door to the MI6 building on the south bank, well before it was built.
Vauxhall Bridge Built in 1906
By now the river traffic was easing, the swell gone. Under Vauxhall Bridge, the four towers of Battersea Power Station (completed in 1955) rose from the redevelopment below.
Next week will see the return of the open-air cinema and theatre at The Coal Jetty. Apartments are being sold and retail and restaurants are already open. We do wonder what the residents will think of living next door to the Super Sewer though! I’m sure it will all be below ground.
Victoria Railway Bridge rebuilt and widened in the 1960’s
Chelsea, originally Victoria Bridge, rebuilt in 1937
Albert Bridge, built 1873, suspension bridge incorporated in 1884-7 and final alterations made in 1973
Victoria, Chelsea and Albert Bridges. The question is who was Chelsea? Did she have a bit of a fling with Albert getting between them!
Albert Bridge painted in pastel shades has a touch of a Wedgewood feel to it.
Battersea Road Bridge built 1885
Battersea Road Bridge was followed by numerous house boats.
House boats side by side
I wonder what it’s like living on one of those with the tides coming and going.
Lots Road Power Station, built in 1904
Lots Road Power Station which used to produce electricity for the underground is having a makeover. The internal structures have been removed and 800 tonnes of steel have been used to retain the exterior façade. Along with four new buildings the development will provide 420 residential units.
Hanging under Wandsworth Bridge ( built in 1940) is a dishevelled bail of straw. It’s an ancient bylaw of uncertain heritage that if a bridge arch is open to river traffic, but with restricted headroom, then a bundle of straw should be hung from the bridge as a warning. At night time it is replaced by a white light.
Fulham Railway Bridge (1889) and Putney Bridge (1886)
Down stream of Putney Bridge (1886) is where the Oxford Cambridge boat race starts, the course passes under Hammersmith Bridge, Barnes Bridge and finishes just before Chiswick Bridge a distance of four miles.
Fulham Football Club is having major works. The riverside stand at Craven Cottage was demolished and is being redeveloped into more than just a football stand. Floating pontoons are being used in the building work and an exclusion zone around these is in force on the river marked with yellow buoys.
Rowers
Now we started to encounter rowers as we approached Hammersmith Bridge (1887). An area along the southern bank has been marked out for the rowers to use, keeping normal river traffic away from the area.
Hammersmith Bridge currently closed
Hammersmith Bridge has been closed to motor traffic since August 2019 after cracks were discovered in the bridges pedestals. The closure was extended to pedestrians, cyclists and normal boat traffic last year. It is however open for pre-booked transits which are subject to a lot of conditions. One of which is that you have an abort plan should the bridge be closed in front of you. This would entail winding and stemming the tide in a predetermined section of the river, contact with VTS would be made and then we would wait for slack water before returning all the way to Limehouse Lock with the outgoing tide.
All three groups had to pass under the bridge in an hours window. Thankfully no abort signal was given and we as Tail end Charlie passed under the bridge at 13:38, well within the hour. Phew!
Under Barnes Railway Bridge ( built in the 1890’s), more rowers and paddleboarders.
Chiswick Bridge built 1933
We received a phone call from Simon checking our location at 14:00, we could confirm we were under Chiswick Bridge and all was fine at the back of the flotilla.
Boats ahead under Kew Railway Bridge
A zoom in on the camera to Kew Railway Bridge confirmed we were catching up the second group. NB Combs Lass and NB Galatea were just passing under the bridge, it was the first time we’d seen them since Limehouse.
Kew Bridge built in 1903
Kew Bridge a wide span bridge was to be the last we’d pass under, the Tower of Kew Bridge Pumping Station watching our approach towards Brentford Junction.
Liquidity ahead
Passing islands to our starboard side we could see the sculpture Liquidity by Simon Packard. This to boaters helps mark the entrance of Brentford Junction on the Thames, to locals it caused a big hoo-ha when it was first erected as it blocked the view from new flats and a local restaurant to the river.
This was where the flotilla would split. Three boats could be seen continuing on up stream towards Teddington. NB Thermopylae now at the back. The third locks worth of boats veered off at the Junction and headed for Thames Lock. Here NB Albert Victor was joined by NB Coracle our lead boat and we joined NB Small World in the second lock to rise up to the semi tidal stretch at the bottom of the Grand Union Canal.
It wasn’t me!
I had chance to check on everything below, half expecting Tilly to still be in a tizz and maybe for her to have suffered from seasickness. I was greeted by a cat who was trying to be quite cool about everything, even if she was a little bit shouty! There was also a bit of a puddle in the main cabin. Oh dear.
However it didn’t take me long to realise that this was just water and it must have come in through our hatch despite the outer doors being closed. There was water on the surround. In absolute torrential rain with howling gales we’ve had water come in having been forced up under the doors. This must have happened when we were in the really lumpy water.
Thames Lock which takes us onto semi-tidal water
Heading to the bow to open up the cratch I also noticed a very small amount of water had made it’s way up under the front doors. These are raised off the floor of the well deck and have a frame that sits quite a bit higher than the doors. Water will have come in through the well deck drains on the choppy sections of the river and some of that made it’s way inside!
Maybe if we plan to do more rough cruises we should look at adding extra protection to these areas, the amount of water wasn’t alarming, but it would have been better to have come in to a dry boat.
A lock keeper was also on duty at Brentford Gauging Locks bring us up off the tidal water and onto the canal proper. We were now bunched up and a queue had formed at Clitheroe’s Lock. I headed up to help , other crew walking on ahead to set Osterley Lock.
When we reached the final lock of the day NB Albert Victor was waiting for a partner, so NB Small World joined them, leaving us to lock up on our own. The off side bottom gate refused, despite a bit of a waggle back and forth, to open fully, so it was one boat in at a time. On leaving half a tree trunk floated above the lock gates. NB Small World pushed it out of the way, but by the time I’d refilled the lock it had drifted back down to be in the way again!
The first sign of a gap in the moorings we pulled in, close to the community gardens. Tilly’s paw was already clinging onto the bathroom porthole her nose sniffing the fresh air, the trees here already having been given feline approval. As soon as our location had been noted with co-ordinates and what3words the rules were recited to Tilly and she was given 2 hours shore leave.
Tideway Tilly back on dry land
Time for a well deserved cup of tea!
Graeme and David with everyone else behind them
This evening we joined everyone else who’d come off the river at Brentford along with Simon who’d made it over from Teddington for a meal at The Fox. This is a pub Mick knows well as he used to live about 200 yards away. I was famished, but had also forgotten about the portion sizes. A portion of chicken wings arrived as a starter, I’d been expecting 4 or 6, but 12! Mick and I should have shared them. Sadly they had run out of rainbow trout so I chose pork belly with mash, Mick had sausage and mash. All the food was very tasty as expected.
VHF and laminated sheets
A very good evening wrapping up an incredible day. The rain had held off, the planning had been spot on, the waves added extra adrenalin, advice was shared, lead boats knew the river, tail boats were VHF qualified. Thank you very much Simon for offering us the final space on the cruise. Thank you also to St Pancras Cruising Club, from start to finish we felt we were in safe hands.
Waterway Routes under new improved rain shield which wasn’t required today
5 locks, 18.75 miles, 2 rights, 34 bridges, 3rd locking, 10th in line, 1st St Pancras cruising cat, 1 lumpy river, 1 shouty cat, 2 puddles, 1 sister-out-law, 1 fellow blogger, 1 boat in tickover much of the time, 4 rice crispie cakes, 0 flying pigs, 4 power stations, 3 lock keepers, 2 hours shore leave, 1 fox, 807 photos, 1 very nice meal, 1 fantastic day.
https://goo.gl/maps/kU1p4HBtsysYSh7c7
A fab photo of Group 1
For more photos of the trip from the front of the flotilla follow this link to Scholar Gypsy
Adam has also published a post with his photos this morning, showing the second group of boats as they headed for Westminster Bridge. A link to his blog Briar Rose
Just over three and a half miles before our next lock this morning. This stretch is familiar as on our first trip to London and back we cruised it both ways as we had visitors who parked at Stoke Bruerne and had come to help man the locks. Andrew Jac and Josh helped us down before Christmas and Mike and Chris helped us back up after, each time we had a meal at The Barley Mow before returning to Stoke Bruerne.
Obligatory photo
Today we are still amused by the Elderly Ducks sign at Kingfisher Marina.
A wooden boat was enveloped with plastic sheets whilst having work done on it. A farmer and his sheep dog trained in a field, those poor sheep, back and forth.
At Thrupp Wharf the hedges have grown somewhat but we still managed to spy a familiar boat as we passed the entrance.
Solomon’s Bridge
After about three miles it was time to join the Geraghty’s for our weekly catch up. People are so small on a phone screen, but at least we’ve now worked out how to get more than one person showing at a time.
Hello everyone!
We made our excuses as we pulled up at the service block where we dealt with yellow and fresh water. As the tank filled we signed back in to family until it was time to pull away as a wide beam was waiting behind us.
Just beaten to the lock by another widebeam we now waited patiently for our turn. We dropped down to be level with Milton Keynes and then crossed the Ouse Aqueduct which always surprises me being so high up.
Crossing the Ouse
We made our way in to Wolverton mooring up away from the swans, the cob here having his own facebook page as he tends to argue with his own reflection, today he had a problem with an inquisitive cat in one of the flats.
Tilly was left with instructions not to wind the swans up as we headed off to Tescos. Tescos was busy, we were there on a Saturday so what did we expect! It really wasn’t pleasant and having to queue to pay rather than use scan and shop made it even worse. Asda across the road was less busy, a visit required as Tilly was running out of her current preferred food, fortunately they had a box of pink poultry in jelly. Trying to explain to a cat that you just can’t buy what they want and that there is plenty of what they liked a couple of months ago tends to fall on deaf ears.
We decided to carry on rather than have lunch before continuing. Would our luck be in to get a mooring at Great Linford? Would it be shady enough for the next couple of days as the temperatures are set to soar?
Round extensions
At Bridge 72, Bradwell Road Bridge building work is still on going on the off side. Extensions to a house seem to have been in build for sometime and they always catch our eye as we go past.
Wonder what he’ll have to say to us on Monday?
At the start of Great Linford Manor Park we could see several workmen all engrossed with their phones sitting around diggers, fencing surrounding them. Works going on in the park.
The off side moorings came into view. Until you are quite close you can’t make out if the two visitor moorings are free as they follow a line of permanent moorings. The first section was half empty, behind them was more fencing and a digger was very busy moving earth about.
Both spaces were free, right next to a very big hole where the digger was being busy. What’s going on? This was a very big hole! We pulled into a little bit of shade, the digger would stop at some point, but was it suitable and safe for an inquisitive cat?
There are big things happening at Great Linford at the moment following on from an award of £3.1million from the National Lottery Heritage Fund. Many of the historic features of the park are showing signs of age. Here by the moorings the Water Gardens are having their walls rebuilt using local limestone. A bridge and cascade is being built between the two ponds restoring the flow of water. Lots more information on the works around the Park can be found HERE.
We decided to carry on a little bit further and pull in under the trees along the towpath. More accessible pathways have been created in the Wilderness which is great, but sadly it most probably means that the daffodil bulbs we planted in memory of Houdini our first second mate will have been dug up.
New paths
We remained in shade for some of the afternoon, the starboard side catching the rays later in the day. Tilly coped with the busy towpath as we coped with the music and general hubbub of being back amongst the human race in an urban area. The fire pit in the park beside us is still going as we head to bed, thankfully those enjoying it are quite quiet.
1 lock, 8.61 miles, 1 Briar Rose, 1 very busy shopping trip, 12 more days of feline supplies, 2 boxes of wine, 1 stroppy swan, 1 big building site, 1 park mooring still empty.
Yet another lovely day with blue skies as far as they could reach, a red hot air balloon gently rose over the trees opposite our mooring, what a wonderful day for a flight, although I’m not sure you’d find me up there in a basket!
The old route shown by the dashed grey lines
A couple of boats had already gone past us this morning, heading towards Hawkesbury Junction so there was hope that we might get a mooring at Rugby. We pushed off and made our way along the straighter route of the Oxford Canal, numerous twists and turns, huge loops were bypassed in the 1820’s speeding up the travel time along the route. Some parts of the old loops remain and have been converted into Marinas, big arched bridges crossing the entrances.
Newbold Tunnel
Through Newbold Tunnel, plenty of boats coming towards us. Our tunnel light, not having been used this year (in fact not since going through Foulridge Tunnel), needed adjusting to favour the starboard side.
Coming into Rugby
Across the Aqueducts that signal Rugby is below. Coming through Masters Bridge 58 we were pleasantly surprised to find that end of the moorings empty. We bagged the end mooring closest to the bridge collected together our shopping bags and walked down to Tescos.
Look at all that space!
Not one delivery van in the loading bay when we arrived. The number of pickers picking shopping for others, there was almost one in every isle! We did a reasonably big shop to keep us going and thought about getting a click and collect sorted for when we get to Leighton Buzzard. As we left the store every space in the loading bay was full with a van, all being restocked for the next set of deliveries.
A big push and we were over at the water point, this tap having much better pressure than the one at Hillmorton. Onwards to find a shady spot for lunch before we got to the locks.
It really is busy down here. So many moving boats, yet it seems that everyone is doing what we are and that is moving. As yet we’ve not really had a problem getting a mooring, now watch as I’ve most probably jinxed us!
Clifton Cruisers was easily passable most of their hire fleet out and about. Their café seemed to be popular with a good sized outside area. Houlton Bridge, is a new bridge linking the new town being built on this side of Rugby. It’s not an architectural masterpiece but I do like that they have cast it’s name into the concrete.
Pretty windows
Along the moorings below Hillmorton Locks there were two interesting boats. Instead of standard windows the steel work had shapes cut out with glass behind. I quite liked the look of them, but Mick pointed out that the glass inside would be a bugger to clean. I have a feeling they were workshop boats, possibly a blacksmith.
Willow taking root
Someone has created a willow niche dedicated to the NHS, it is starting to sprout so obviously the withies have taken root. Rather a nice living tribute.
A boat was just coming out of one of the bottom paired locks, the other already empty it just needed opening up. We rose as a boat came into the lock next to us, the lady having a bit of difficulty raising the paddles. On to the next pair.
Three going down
We swapped with a boat that had just come down and started our ascent whilst another boat entered the other lock and started to empty it. Below the boat following us pulled up right in front of the gates waiting for it to be emptied, quite presumptuous, no wonder the down hill boat blasted it’s horn at them!
Waterways poetry
At the top lock we were assisted by a fellow from a boat moored just past the lock landing. He was spending his day helping boats up and down a chair sitting between the two locks so that he could sun himself as he waited.
Little boxes all squashed in
Up ahead the new town of Houlton is taking shape. Houses a little away from the canal are already up, enough space between them to roll a wheelie bin. More foundations close to the canal were waiting for the next phase of construction.
Barby Straight
The moorings along Barby Straight are something that makes me a touch jealous, a lovely garden to sit out in. The Tinman looks after one and someone has created a modesty screen with painted pallets. It is always slow going along here, passing the moored boats and when others are coming towards you too, it’s even slower.
4pm was fast approaching, we’d not far to go to reach our chosen mooring spot by Dunchurch Pools Marina but I had a zoom meeting, I just hoped that us moving wouldn’t cause problems with internet signal. Amy and I managed to connect and a few minutes later Mick pulled us in to a space for the night. I had to excuse myself from the meeting to let Tilly out, otherwise she’d have taken over totally!
Tin man with a heart
Discussions on costume designs, what would be needed for the photo shoot in a few weeks time and we touched on the set design too. I could just sort the costumes for the photo shoot now, but as I’m in charge of the budget I also want to have an idea on everything else that is needed. Time to do some research into music festivals and neon hairdos. Quite different to panto!
3 locks, 10.4 miles, 1 tunnel, 0 mysterons, 2 boxes wine, 1 new pair trousers, 1 full water tank, 1 yellow water container emptied, 1 hot day, 2 pink arms, 4pm meeting, 9 but 7 actors, 2 days prep, 1 hotel to book.
The River Ouse is so vast in Goole you just have to keep looking forwards so as not to be swallowed up by the expanse of water.
That Mick he’s always been a speed merchant!
With a choice of charts, Ripon or the Boating Association, we decided to follow the red line on the later. Popped in a plastic folder the book wouldn’t stay dry if it rained but it would have some protection. We’d rather these got damp than the useful book from Ripon, so that stayed on the Nicholson’s shelf by the back door in case we wanted it for reference.
Tucked away behind the flood bank
However we were close enough to Sea Maiden to see what course to follow, David having produced the Ripon book should know his way along the river.
Goole Railway Swing Bridge
First landmark was Goole Railway Swing Bridge. With wharfs further upstream the bridge swings to let big ships through, no need for that today. David did take a different span of the bridge than our red line suggested, as Sea Maiden is deeper droughted than Oleanna we had no problem following.
The bridge is also known as Hook Bridge, it is a large viaducted hogback plate girder bridge with a swing span that was built to connect Kingston Upon Hull to South Yorkshire in 1869. There are four fixed spans crossing from the western bank then the two that swing on the east bank. The pivot point is vast.
Lulabelle following
At Howden Dyke large wharfs stand with their bucket cranes ready to off load. We looked out for green markers here, but then realised these were actually quite small and are lights rather than big posts with brushes on the top as they are on the Trent.
The second wharf is where you change course quite dramatically. Straight ahead would seem to make sense, taking the shorter route round Howden Dyke Island.
But this course is shallow and the channel heads off at a right angle to the south of the island. Paul from Waterway Routes had mentioned this in an email a day ago, we stuck to our red line and followed Sea Maiden up ahead.
Here they come
Looking behind us, would Lulabelle see which course to take? They came into view and took the sharp left following at quite a distance now.
Left!
As we finished rounding the island Mick’s phone rang. It was Nigel at Selby asking on our progress. We’d only been out on the river for about half an hour. Maybe he thought we’d been let out earlier from the docks, but he’d hoped we’d be further on and not still south of the M62 bridge.
At Selby there hadn’t been a noticeable change of tide this morning due to the amount of fresh coming down. He was concerned that we’d soon be loosing the effect of the incoming tide and then struggle against tide and fresh water to make headway. The river appeared to be peaking a day earlier than expected. All we could do was continue, we seemed to be doing 6mph which we thought was reasonable.
We messaged up ahead to David, Oleanna could go faster, but could Lulabelle who seemed to be keeping up but a long way behind. Did their engine have enough umph to push on upstream.
M62
Nebo showed us doing between 5 to 10 knots only slowing to below 5 knots when changing direction around Howden Dyke and as we approached the M62 Bridge, well we had to have chance to have a good look.
Wonder if anyone saw us?
Just how many times have we been over this huge spanning bridge which opened in 1976. This is our preferred route south from Scarborough and at times it was too from York. On crossing the bridge we always look out for boats and comment on the state of the tide. Today the tide was still coming in and there were three boats pushing their way upstream.
Boothferry Bridge
Next Boothferry Bridge. A landmark of Micks childhood, long before the M62 bridge was built! Living in London and grandparents living in Hessle near Hull they would make the journey northwards by car. Crossing the bridge was a sign that they were nearly there! Excitement would build on the back seat of the Humber Hawk.
Another for good measure
To the south of the Ouse the River Aire joins shortly before a bend. Now up ahead the cooling towers of Drax Power Station rose, new wind turbines in the foreground. Was there a faint whiff of wood smoke in the air? Drax burns biomass to generate power now, just like wooden cat litter.
New and old power generating
I had wondered if we’d be able to see Eggborough Power Station too along this stretch. The thought of a photo with Drax, Eggborough and the depleted cooling towers of Ferrybridge a goal of mine, but sadly this wasn’t to be.
Lulabelle still there
Next time we cross the Wolds on a clear day we’ll have to stop the car to get all three power stations in one photo.
Is this Barmby?
Round another bend and Barmby Barrage came into view. The River Derwent heads off north east from here. A while ago we’d considered stopping here to save the full journey up to Selby. Maybe our progress was starting to slow now the effect of the incoming tide was waning against the amount of fresh coming down, we’d been on the river now for an hour and a half. Was this where we should be?
It is
Mick called Nigel at Selby to give him an update on our location. Thankfully he was happy with our progress, he wouldn’t be sat at Selby waiting for us until 9pm as he’d once thought.
Next year
Barmby Barrage has to be booked with the Environment Agency 24 hours in advance. Heading up the Derwent and onto the Pocklington Canal is one trip we want to do, but for now it will have to wait for another year, maybe next year.
Drax
The red line on our charts was now becoming intermediate. Keeping to the outside of bends, but not too far over as the flow pushes you even further out as we’d discovered on our first trip up to York seven years ago. As we reached Hemingbrough our speed was certainly dropping, Nebo showing it now under 5 knots.
24 to where?
We’d been wondering where all the debris was that usually accompanies you from Selby up to York. Last year it had been like a log flume. Our first tree came into sight bobbing along, a browning Christmas tree. Was this all there was going to be?
26
Sea Maiden up ahead was slowing. The river getting narrower the flow coming towards us stronger. This is where the floating debris started, no wonder David had slowed down. We’d lost sight of Lulabelle a while earlier, but with each of us on Nebo we could see where each boat was. Martin and Wendy were maybe ten, fifteen minutes behind, but they were still moving.
How now
Red markers on the western bank counted upwards. 26 being called Brown Cow on our charts was surrounded by sheep grazing the river bank. From here it was only 5km to the swing bridges of Selby, channel 9 to contact the bridge keepers, but we’d not need them to swing for us, we’d only one to go under Selby Bypass Swing Bridge.
A large tree lay on the bank, was this the tree we’d seen last year on our way up to York? At Roscarrs the river narrows and we could see the water bubbling away, lumpy water. We pushed hard against the flow here and up to the next bend where things calmed down somewhat.
Lumpy water
As Sea Maiden passed under the Bypass Bridge we heard David contacting the lock keeper on the radio. Nigel asked if all the boats were together, there was no reply from David. We waited for him to answer but none came. So Mick radioed our position as we passed under the bridge. Sea Maiden would be penned up the lock on her own, Nigel would then drop the lock ready for us. Mick reduced our speed, a gradual approach to the lock better than having to tread water nearer it. Martin on Lulabelle then followed on the radio with their position, still about ten minutes behind us.
Selby Bypass Bridge
But where was the lock? If this was your first time on the river you’d need guidance as all you can see is trees along the banks and Selby Rail Swing Bridge up ahead. Sea Maiden carried on ahead, then just disappeared out of view.
Finally the red brick flats came into view, these are just after the lock so we slowed our progress even more. The water could be seen dropping from the lock. I made my way to the bow before any manoeuvring by us was needed.
Nigel at the lock
Nigel stood by the lock mouth, handy hand signals as to our position on our approach. The temptation to turn in as you would on a canal is great, especially as we were facing the flow. But holding our course upstream meant we’d not get swept into the bank or the lock walls. Stay out, stay out, NOW!
Approaching the lock
Mick swung the tiller hard over and Oleanna responded nicely straight into the lock. Phew!
Thank you Karl for the footage.
Safe in the lock
No need for ropes as we’d be on our own in the lock. Nigel opened up paddles bringing us in towards the wall where we stayed as we raised up to the Selby Canal.
Two of us up
Sea Maiden was already moored. We winded and pulled in behind them. The lock already being reset for Lulabelle. More hand signals and Martin and Wendy turned faultlessly into the lock, big grins all round.
Keep coming!
All three boats safely in Selby. In the last twenty minutes it had started to rain, but other than that we’d had a pretty dry cruise. We’d found the gap in the weather, pushed against the fresh water. David’s original calculations had had us arriving at Selby around 16:30. We’d arrived at 17:30 after pushing against the increasing amount of fresh coming down stream. So we’d not done too badly and had a pleasant cruise up the river.
Three of us up
All that’s left to do now is head back the way we’ve come. Turn up the Trent, using the tide to help us upstream. Passage is currently booked for Sunday at 06:30.
Can I go out yet?
2 locks, 15.84 miles, 1 wind, 3 lefts, 1 straight on, 0 ships, 38 litres, 2 fenders, 3 boat flotilla, 12 knots maximum wind speed, 3 hours 10 minutes on the river, 1 worried Lockie, M62 and Boothferry Bridge gone under, 1st stage of the escape achieved, phew!
