I’d just finished doing my exercises this morning when I could hear voices at the blue boat ahead of us. I peeked out of the bow blinds there was a CRT chap chatting to the crew, he had a life jacket on and I thought I spied another person down at the lock, possibly unlocking it. I flung on some clothes and shoes, disguising my pyjamas so I could go out and see what was happening.
Navigational advice was being passed on to the crew, low pipe bridge, put the paddle down before filling etc. I then asked about the tail bridge at 37E, Kevin (the chap from CRT) ‘Ahh, yes I’d forgotten about that. Hang on.’ He made a phone call, apparently it was being mended this morning. He set off down the locks to check how things were progressing. Time to chat to the neighbours, a boat from Strawberry Island in Doncaster, this has been their first proper summer out and about.
Of course I asked how they’d faired on the Diggle flight. They’d been warned about one pound possibly being low, but it was all fine, no problems! There had been at least one if not two boats go down the flight since we’d come up and we’d most probably sorted the levels out for all of them.
Kevin came back, the bridge would be sorted in an hour so the blue boat could head on, so could we if we wanted to. Well I really didn’t want to tackle a flight single handing, especially the Marsden flight. I checked it would be fine for tomorrow. It was.
Eggy Bread!!!
Currently you have to book the Marsden flight and Lock 1E in Huddersfield. This is to help preserve water levels. Leaving tomorrow morning we simply wouldn’t manage to reach 1E for Thursday morning when we were booked to go through, 41 locks and about 7 miles away. The next possible day to go through was already fully booked, I asked if there was any way to get round this, Kevin said he’d sort it and give me a call later on to confirm.
Back on board for breakfast, now more like an early lunch! There was half an egg left from making Nan bread so I made myself some eggy bread for the first time in decades. I discovered that gluten free bread isn’t so good for it, it has an inability to hold itself together when dry, never mind when it’s got an eggy coating! All the same it was nice with a sprinkling of sugar.
I had a quick tidy up, sweep through and spent some time dissuading Tilly from wanting to go out. Mick in Scarborough was suffereing a little from having had both flu and covid jabs yesterday along with a cold. He’d contemplated staying in Scarborough another night, but with news that the locks were open he’d head back as originally planned. If only the roofer people had come on Monday or cancelled earlier we’d have been able to do the Marsden flight today! Oh well.
Jamie Olivers gf Carrot Cake
Kevin called back. The top lock had been left open for us to use in the morning and he’d bypassed the system booking us in at Lock 1E. The system allows two boats in each direction through the lock, twice a week. With no-one booked to go up he’d been allowed to add us onto the list, not that the people who lift the stop planks know who’s booked anyway, they just let the boats waiting through. Lifting the stop planks is easy, it’s putting them back in again and ashing it up which takes the time, so the more boats through the better. That’s as long as there’s sufficient water!
Sadly no volunteers would be available to help us down from Marsden. But we’d had an offer from Paul Balmer of Waterway Routes to come and assist, so contact was made and plans put together.
Mick got in touch saying he’d be on an earlier train, Brian from NB Alton the coal boat was willing to deliver coal and diesel to us as he was delivering to parts of Manchester today, it would be late on.
Some baking for our volunteer tomorrow was needed. It also meant I could check the temperature in the top oven. Recently things in the main oven seem to be cooking a little bit too quickly, but the top oven has been behaving. Todays cake baking has confirmed the top oven is fine. Next time I use the main oven it will also get checked now I’ve dug out the oven thermometer.
Top oven correct
When Mick returned we nudged up closer to the top lock so Brian didn’t have so far to bring us coal and 40 litres of diesel. Eta was 7pm, and bang on the dot he arrived. Refuelling was done in the dark. Big thank you’s to Brian for venturing over the top and into Yorkshire to get to us, then we moved back to where we’d come from on a more level mooring!
0 locks, 120ft forwards, 120ft back, 1 sparking chimney, 1 carrot cake, Gas mark 5, 350 F, 0 shore leave for Tilly, 2 boaters now on lemsip!
We’d been warned about the trains going past, their wheels screeching, but it wasn’t much different to us than we’d had the previous night in Diggle. It was nice to wake to sunny skies, yellow warmth gradually lifting above the hills and casting its glow across the field opposite. Much better than alongside houses cutting out all the solar, how fortunate to be able to moor here until the locks open again.
Yum!
To celebrate being back in Yorkshire and still having a boat we had a cooked breakfast. Then there were blog posts to get up to date. Sifting through 350 plus photos of the tunnel took plenty of time.
Our aim today was to wind the boat and come back so that I could get a lick of paint on the rusty patches on the port side grabrail. To do this we decided to wait for the tunnel trip boat to move up to the tunnel for the day, so we’d have more room to wind and not be in anyone’s way.
The Shuttle heading to the station
We were just dropping the covers when one of the volunteers across the way checked we were leaving. Well we planned on coming back facing the other way. “Oh but the trains are noisy here, the moorings above the lock are much quieter.” “It’s only a mooring to stop and have a cuppa after the tunnel there. It’s not a mooring. The moorings are half a mile away above the top lock.”” You can’t moor there!” But we’d asked yesterday and been told we could stay. “Well they shouldn’t have told you that” “You’ll be in the way of boats wanting to use the tunnel tomorrow” Except there won’t be any boats as the locks are closed.
By now Mick was working himself up into a Geraghty strop. If we could carry on down the locks, we’d have already moved down to above the locks last night, but we couldn’t. The telephone conversation I’d had with the chap yesterday regarding the bridge suggested that we’d not be able to descend for a few days. Who knows how long it would take to make the bridge safe, maybe a day, maybe several and the chap we were currently talking to hadn’t known about it at all yesterday until we told him, all he’d wanted to do was sell us a second copy of the book on the tunnel we got last time (a good read by the way). Appointments for us next week mean we’ll not be available to move immediately. Yesterday we’d been told we could stay, we’d not gone into conserving water mode as there is a tap by the tunnel entrance we could use on an evening. If we went to the locks we’d have to reverse back half a mile to the tap. In the current circumstances it made sense to us to stay put. But no, no reason given, we had to move.
Such a blue sky
Should we see what the chap who’d called yesterday would say? No, we’d call Tunnel Control first as it was people there who’d said we could stay in the first place. Well that back fired as Mick got to talk to the same chap who wasn’t going to let us stay. Mick was never given a reason other than it’s not a mooring. Eventually the chap relented a touch so that we could stay until the tunnel trip boat was back on it’s mooring for the day, then we could top up on water before leaving.
Marsden Mechanics
I lifted the pan on the roof, at least that could have a coat of something, then I checked the other patches I’d started to prep on the starboard side grabrail last year but never finished. A touch of rust needed sanding back. Then I applied the first coat.
What to do with the rest of the day? Mick had already got us a Saturday newspaper. We needed a few supplies, so we walked into the village down the steep hill. Today both my knees were complaining after running the 100 meters two days ago, so the down hill took time.
Maybe this would do for the do were going to
A quick look round. Marsden Mechanics, sadly no Mikron shows on at the moment. A couple of charity shops, one with a fab dalek outfit in the window. Fruit and veg. Bakers. Fish and chips. Pubs. Co-op. We did a shop for something to eat this evening and checked what else they did in case we run out of preferred bits and bobs if we end up being here a while. Maybe a delivery would be required. Peel Street Social looked interesting and very popular as did a cafe on our way back to the boat.
If only we could moor here! No where to bang a spike in though
Back at Tunnel End the shuttle boat and trip boat were back on their moorings plugged in to charge up. We waited for the cafe to close before pushing over to top up with water and empty the yellow water tank. Then said a very quick goodbye as we pushed off to make our way to the top of the locks, where the mooring is.
Does not compute!
Here Tilly would be allowed out. Here Tilly was not impressed, her PHD in mathematics was being put to the test trying to work out equations to get her jump correct to reach the top of the wall.
Another boat is moored here, the smoke from their chimney continuous, they also seem to be mid fit out with lots of banging and sawing. The trains are still noisy, not so squeaky, but it’s more the people coming and going from the trains on the Real Ale Trail that is very noisy. At least we’d been lucky enough to have one night on a lovely mooring.
0 locks, 65 ft reversed, 0.4 miles, 1st coat, 2nd for others, 1 walk, 1 steep hill, 2 painful knees, 1 miffed cat, 1 wall too high, 0 trees, 0 friendly cover, I thought we were in the Pennines! 1 Jobs worth requiring some customer relations skills, 2 padlocks, 1 sunny day.
Up early, we moved to the tunnel portal a little after 8am. With the water tank filling we had breakfast, there was hardly likely to be anyone turning up for a few hours and we knew roughly when they’d be arriving.
At 8.30 someone arrived from CRT to unlock the tunnel gates. They asked us once we’d filled the tank to move back so there would be space for the boat coming through from Marsden, they’d be setting off shortly and would arrive around 10.30. We did as instructed and then got on with preparing Oleanna for the tunnel.
I might stay in amongst the washing today thanks
Mick forgets the things we did last time. A similar conversation as the one we had before trying Froghall Tunnel. The pram cover and frame were removed. Cratch cover taken off and stowed inside. Poo buckets removed from on top of the gas locker and popped in the well deck, space was made for me to be able to sit there. Next the nav lights were removed just leaving the wires wrapped in lx tape sticking out of the cabin sides. Bags of coal flattened on the roof, all planks, poles etc put into the gutters. Top of the chimney removed, the stove had been left to go out overnight.
Horns at the ready
I got a message on my phone, could I please call someone back from CRT. I first thought it might be to do with our near miss yesterday, however it was about a closure ahead of us. There was a bridge at one of the Marsden Locks which engineers had deemed not safe. The bridge is the only means of getting to the offside to open and close the gates. It would be looked at again on Monday and hopefully they’d have us on the move again soon. The flight is kept locked to help conserve water and you have to book a passage down. Our journey down the east side of the HNC had been planned around various things. So hopefully they will be able to get us down on suitable days. The chap on the phone told me all the good things we’d be able to do in Marsden over the weekend. There are worse places we could get stuck.
Their return journey through the tunnel
At 10.15 I could see a light in the tunnel. At 10.30 the bow of a hire boat appeared from the dark. A lady stood at the front, three chaps in high-vis at the stern, a dog started to bark it’s head off inside the cabin.
Checking we’ll fit through
David and Stuart came over to see us. David checked to see if we knew about the Marsden flight being closed, did we still want to go through the tunnel? Yes please, even if we have to wait a few days it would still be better than going the long way round to Yorkshire. Oleanna was measured, the top of the pan covering the removed mushroom vent deemed to be the highest point. Depth under the water. 1ft 4″! No chance!! They tried again, 2ft 4″, more like it. Across the top of the cabin at the bow, 4ft 11″, just under the 5ft we’d been told about for Froghall Tunnel. We’d fit.
David, Mick and Stuart
Gas turned off, cuppas made for those who wanted one with the electric kettle. Safety briefing given. Tilly was noted, yes we would be able to climb a ladder if needs be and walk 1.5km. We passed, now we just had to wait the required 3/4 of an hour after the last boat had left before we could go in, this helps fumes to clear.
Going under the railway
With all cabin lights on, we hoped Tilly would have a better journey through the tunnel than she did last time. I actually don’t know how she fared as I didn’t hear her or see her once in the 90 minutes it took us to get through.
Neat archway
On our first trip through on NB Lillyanne Mick had been at the helm, I sat at the stern along with the chaperone from CRT who gave us a good running commentary along with guiding Mick around the S bend in the middle of the tunnel. Three years ago there was still social distancing, Oleanna’s stern was just big enough for the chaperone to be with Mick at the stern, or the chaperone could be at the helm. Mick opted to sit at the bow with me so he could enjoy the trip through rather than spend all his time concentrating. This was quite a noisy affair, every bump or scrape could be heard, we winced quite a few times but were then relived when there was no noticeable damage.
Sprayed concrete and a giant spider
Today Mick opted to be at the helm. David and Stuart would be with him at the stern and I would be alone at the front. There were two of them today as Stuart is in training for Tunnel Control, but needs to know the tunnel too.
Stone
A large lamp was positioned on our gas locker, fire extinguisher and various gas monitors were positioned at the stern. A large crate of stuff and a spare light were popped in the bow with me.
At the bow I had a cushion to sit on, camera and phone. I’d wanted to set up a time lapse, but because of yesterdays drama had totally forgotten about it. I’d also forgotten to give the cratch window a good clean! Oh well, at least we were here and about to go through!
At 11.15 Oleanna was pushed out. A chap who’d been walking up the Diggle flight yesterday had brought his family to watch us. I said we’d race them to the other end. Then we were in the tunnel, brick lined arched roof. Then the roof line flattens out where the rail tunnel crosses over head to travel for the majority of the way on our left hand side.
Craggy reflections
The tunnel was authorised by an Act of Parliament in 1794. Construction began a few months later. Within two years cost saving measures and water levels pushed back the tunnels completion date. Thomas Telford took over and drew up a new plan for the tunnels completion and in 1811 it opened. By 1943 it was closed but with the restoration of the canal it reopened in 2001.
That bit goes up some way
Three other tunnels head through the hillside. The first rail tunnel was built in 1848, a second in 1871 these were both to the east of the canal tunnel. The canal was used to remove spoil as the other tunnels were dug and adits were created between them. Then a third rail tunnel was made, this one crossed over the canal tunnel from the east, runs along side it then back over to the east side before resurfacing at Marsden. This was built in 1894 and is the one used today.
The white lines are the drill holes
The interior of the tunnel varies so much. Arched brickwork, Brickwork with ribs giving it more support, several different types of rock. On some stretches you can see where holes were drilled to insert explosives, here there and everywhere.
There are ties holding up the roof, sections where concrete has been sprayed over the surface to keep it more stable. Stone block sections.
Hello!
Small tunnels head off to the east, adits leading to the old rail tunnels where a CRT van follows your progress. Some of these are well lit, and a high-vis chap stood waiting for us, he could also be seen on one of the walk ways that cross overhead to the current rail tunnel. The accompanying van may soon be a thing of the past as new communications have been installed. On our roof we’d had a radio repeater added for our journey. Every now and then there would be something similar attached to the roof of the tunnel, glowing like a UFO as our lights caught it. At each adit the person in the van acknowledged us, but then David would radio Tunnel Control with our location. The system is still being tested, but once it is okayed the driver will no longer be needed in the other tunnel.
Our progress was steady. Quite a bit of bumping about. We discussed this later no, Mick wasn’t aware of as much bumping as I was at the bow, maybe on Lillyanne we’d done a similar amount but not been aware of it.
As with just about all tunnels there are wet bits. I’d put full waterproofs on knowing how wet I’d got last time. One spout of water pulsated towards the cabin side as we passed. Other water features were just a wall of water to pass through. At each one I would stand up and try to position myself under the cratch board, I still got quite wet! Mick at the stern had David and Stuart stand up at one time blocking his view.
This way out! or should we just go straight on?
Small pieces of wood could occasionally be seen on the roof. These were Leggers boards, they had numbers written on them so that the leggers would know where they were. I also spotted quite a few red plastic cotton reels attached to the walls, no idea what these were and forgot to ask about them.
David gave Mick instructions when we reached the S bend, slow, to the right a bit, don’t be tempted to turn just yet, go over a touch. All very helpful instructions and making sure we avoided any overhanging sections of wall that might get our cabin sides. Now Mick was asked to pick up pace, the trip boat was due to come into the tunnel at 1pm and it would be good if we were clear before then.
We popped out into the sunshine of West Yorkshire at 12.45 an hour and a half after entering.
All the kit was removed from Oleanna quicky and we pushed over to the off side for lunch. Over lunch we discussed what to do. We wondered if we could stay here on the offside, there’d be no boats heading for the tunnel over the weekend due to the Marsden flight being closed. Mick went over and chatted to the volunteers (they have 100 on this side of the HNC), he was told it would be fine to stay.
Marsden Tunnel End
As we put Oleanna back together we waited for trains to come past. An educated guess on a train from Manchester was waved at, Josh was most probably on it heading to York for a weekend with Andrew and Jac. I’d sent him instructions on where to look as soon as he was through the tunnel, but it being his first time on the train route he almost certainly missed us.
The Cat H&S committee looked round. Perfect for Tilly apart from one thing, the railway line. Yes there is a good fence that she’d not be able to get through. But the fence was certainly climbable, it also has several trees very closeby which she’d be up like a shot. So very sadly cat shore leave wasn’t going to be on the cards.
Reminds me of a panto I once designed
Mick swept the chimney and cleaned the stove out before relighting the fire. I prepared a beef and beetroot curry, starting it off in the oven. We think the thermostat has got problems in the main oven, after an hour the curry had dried out and starting to burn around the edges. More water was added and it was then moved to on top of the stove to carry on cooking slowly. A very nice meal in the end with enough left over for a meal in a day or two.
0 locks, 3.3 miles, 5677 yards underground, 2nd boat moving on the HNC (excluding trip boats), 2 volunteers 1 cat in amongst the washing, 1 sodden cushion, 1 soggy pair of pants, 1 wave to a nephew, 3rd time, 1 flight ahead closed, 90 minutes in the dark, 0 3rd edition wanted, 1 much better day than yesterday.
The rain started yesterday evening and I think it has been a constant for a least 24 hours. Our current schedule has days off built into it, but they are just about all spoken for. At least the wind had subsided a bit this morning.
We waited to see if the rain would ease. Maybe it would, maybe we’d get a soaking. An early lunch with hope of moving on afterwards. Waterproofs donned. Engine on. The yellow water needed emptying, that was none negotiable.
Mick came in doors, he’d been thinking, so had I. The rain was very big drops, after five minutes out there he’d got pretty soaked. The plan was to do 8 locks today, we’d be dripping wet before the second lock. Could we do an extra long day tomorrow instead? If the weather eased off then we’d head on, but we both knew that wouldn’t happen, even so we both kept our padded waterproof trousers on for much of the day.
Well that’s pants!
Tilly agreed, the weather was SO bad even I didn’t get to go out! You wouldn’t have got to go out anyway, we’re in a car park!
The day was spent doing a blog writing master class with Mick. Writing a post is one thing. Adding the photos, changing fonts to black and bold to make them easier to read is second nature to me now, but it all takes time.
Quality control.
In between giving guidance I watched A Million Little Pieces2018. A jolly little number about an addict who after injuring himself ends up in rehab, he falls in love and battles his past to save himself. As I say a jolly film, not. But good to knit in front of.
Ready for the oven
This evening (still raining), I had a go at my own version of the chicken, ham, leek dauphinoise pie I bought in Northwich the other week. It turned out pretty well, very tasty. Not too healthy, but then dauphinoise potatoes never have been with all that cream. Very indulgent and not a standard midweek meal and I did manage to use nearly every pan we have! I’ll write it up when I have time, and next time I’ll see what it’s like using soya cream instead to reduce the fat content.
Ready for our tummies
Mick had spied that a new series of The Traitors started tonight on BBC 3. It’s also available on demand, so that’s our viewing sorted for the next ten nights. But what a measly prize pot $70,000, that’s just over £33,000 a third of the UK prize pot!
0 locks, 0 miles, 1 wet Mick, 1 dry Pip, 1 dry Tilly, 1 very nice meal, 1 long day tomorrow, 1st NZ season, it’s not the same without a castle!
Dukinfield Railway Bridge to Tescos, Stalybridge, Huddersfield Narrow Canal.
Turning our backs to Manchester
Dr Zeus, Baby Shark, Recorded Commentary and Ceonothus were topics on the Geraghty zoom this morning as well as the trip on the PS Waverley. There is a post being written about Mick’s trip, hopefully it’ll be posted soon.
What’s happening here?
Time to move onwards. Right at Dukinfield Junction, under Asda and out the other side. Only what was that? Was there someone in the water behind the white thing. A fridge freezer and a fisherman who had an inflatable seat, said he can go where others can’t. He can also keep boaters on their toes!
Squeezing in to Lock 1W
Below Ashton Lock 1W of the Huddersfield Narrow Canal there are two signs, one welcoming you to the HNC the other to the Ashton Canal. There is also a very small sign under the bright blue one saying that the HNC is a SSSI. I only know this as I zoomed in with the camera.
SSSI
Mick headed up to empty the lock. The locks all have bridges over the bottom end, but no walkway at the top gates, so you need to walk all the way round to lift paddles. We soon got into the routine that once Oleanna was high enough I’d step off on the off side to lower the paddle whilst Mick opened the top gate, saving his legs.
Dark and narrow
Above the first lock there is a very narrow channel with several bridges over it, the going is very slow along here, very slow.
In the depths of 2W
2W and 3W are quite close together. Mick emptied the bottom one, then I was a little bit surprised that the bottom gates didn’t close behind Oleanna. Where had he gone? Nearly 11ft down I couldn’t see much. I called out to check he was okay, no answer. I waited. Maybe if I stood on a locker I’d be able to see more, but I really didn’t want to hoik myself up there. I waited, still nothing, was he alright. I called his phone. Of course he was alright, he’d headed up to the next lock to set it emptying. He had signalled to me what he was doing but I hadn’t seen.
These locks have what look like pepper pots by the top gates, these are posh air vents from the paddle gear.
A tree hung low over the canal. A broken branch or two, some sawn, some just broken. Our higher chimney would be a problem. We slowed, reversed so that Mick could take the top off, all the time Oleanna drifting and doing her best to get her own back on a particularly annoying branch. It snapped but didn’t come off! Mick tried too as we went under it, it cracked a bit more, hopefully no longer a big pointy sharp thing ready to attack paintwork.
Pretty impressive
On the side of a building now used for thai martial arts there is a great mural by AKSE-p19 a Manchester graffiti artist. This one was painted in 2022 and is of Kru Steve Moore a senior instructor at the Sitsiam Centre.
Over the River Tame Aqueduct, the narrow channel flowing pretty speedily below us.
Now in Stalybridge, the lights and railings dating from when the canal was reopened in 2000, all more grown over than when we were last here, only the official towpath side has a clear path, despite there being lights along the offside too.
Are they coming down?
As we rounded a bend towards the next lock we could see a bow of a blue boat sitting under the road bridge. A community boat from Dukinfield. No sign of movement, were they having their lunch and was this why all the locks had been full in front of us? Soon a head popped out from the bow doors, another at the stern. It was a training day and yes they’d winded and tied up to the railings under the bridge to have lunch. Wonder how many times they do this and find themselves in the way, not many I suspect.
Pebble dashed lock walls
The next few locks into the heart of Stalybridge were rebuilt. The first has pebble dashed sides and an emerging view up to the hills ahead. The next is still original stone work, followed by a full concrete lock. The newer locks have both top paddles on the one side, saving walking round.
Pennines ahead!
We popped up much to the delight of a little girl on Dads shoulder, so many questions, just at the age where Why? or What? start every sentence. Surprisingly there were no boats moored outside Tescos. We pulled in on the off side by the car park, then quickly remembered about the goose pooh! Mooring rings sat in pools of the stuff, eerk! But this side would have less foot fall and is easier to get a supermarket trolley to even if you have to climb through the railings!
Up into Stalybridge
Late lunch followed by a big shop. Yesterday we’d made sure we had everything we needed for a meal today just in case we didn’t manage to get to Tescos in time. It turns out we were here in time but we had to rush to beat them closing.
Last lock of the day
A very nice roast chicken enjoyed, Oleanna nice and cosy. Then the wind started to howl and rain started to pour. Mick checked the ropes before bed, leaving us with some slack should the level rise overnight, but this did mean we’d get rocked to sleep by the wind. Here’s hoping it’s not too wet tomorrow!
For my 65th birthday my sister Marion and her husband John bought me a trip around the Isle of Wight on the paddle steamer PS Waverley. My 65th birthday was in 2023 and the trip was booked for September that year. We had a mooring booked for Oleanna in Lincoln Marina and were all ready to go. Three or four days before the event the cruise was cancelled due to forecast high winds in the Solent and the Channel. So it got re-arranged for a year later.
PS Waverley in Scotland. Photo credit my sister Anne
Also in Scotland
These two photos were taken by my sister Anne who lives in Helensburgh and sees the Waverley regularly.
Built in 1946, the Waverley took day trippers around the Firth of Clyde and nearby sea lochs until she was retired in 1973. She was then purchased by the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society for the princely sum of £1, restored to her original 1947 appearance and put back into service. She now carries out an extensive summer timetable of passenger excursions, calling at many seaside piers and ports around the British coast. Here is a link to her website https://waverleyexcursions.co.uk/ . She is the last passenger carrying seagoing paddle steamer in the world.
Oleanna was moored in Macclesfield. I left Pip and Tilly in charge and headed off to the railway station for a direct train to Southampton. The train I was booked on was cancelled. However I had noticed this when I checked online that morning and caught a train leaving an hour earlier. I arrived in Southampton four and a half hours later and walked to our hotel. I met Marion and John in the bar and we elected to eat in the hotel restaurant. Then an early night as we needed to be up and away by nine in the morning.
After breakfast we walked to the station to catch an excursion bus to take us into the port of Southampton to the cruise liner quay. There was the little PS Waverley moored in between two huge passenger cruise ships. We were welcomed aboard and found some seats outside on the top deck.
Waverley. View from the bus
Shuttle bus from the station
Time to set off. The crew let go the forward rope and the Waverley went into reverse gear. The bow moved away from the wharf whilst the stern was held by the still attached stern rope. We use this procedure on Oleanna sometimes if things are a bit tight or if it’s windy. We call it a “Reverse Andy”. Then the stern rope was let go and the Waverley did a 180 degree turn with the assistance of a tug and headed off down Southampton Water, the tug keeping alongside us for a while.
Ecorted by the tug
Looking backwards towards Southampton. Cruise liners behind.
There were a few yachts around and a couple of motor cruisers to keep us company, people on board taking photos of us.
On approach to Portsmouth we slowed right down and a pilot boat came alongside from astern. We needed a pilot to get into the port of Portsmouth. A rope ladder was thrown over the side and the pilot stepped onto it and climbed aboard.
The Waverley’s normal berth at The Hard, next to Portsmouth Harbour station wasn’t available today so we headed further into the port past the Naval Dockyard. Both the UK’s aircraft carriers, HMS Queen Elizabeth and HMS Prince of Wales, were at home base moored next to each other. There were also five destroyers there too. A couple of tug boats came to join us, one in front and one behind, and escorted us to the continental ferry port where a berth was available for us. We came to a halt a few metres from the side and the tugs pushed us gently in to moor alongside. Throwing lines were thrown to the waiting staff on the dockside and the main ropes followed. The ropes were arranged in what we on Oleanna call “innies” (as opposed to “outies”).
HMS Queen Elizabeth and HSM Prince of Wales
There were four bus loads of Portsmouth passengers to board. This took some time so we went down below to the café for some lunch. On the menu was fish and chips, macaroni cheese and chicken jalfrezi. I had the fish and chips.
Normally on the Isle of Wight cruise the Waverley calls at Ryde and Yarmouth. But these ports weren’t available today. There is unofficial speculation that this is because in the past the Waverley has had a “hard landing” there so the Isle of Wight ferry company has banned her from docking at its ferry berths.
Isle of Wight ferry
We set off round the island in a clockwise direction. John was pleased about this because the last time he did this trip they went anti-clockwise, so this gave him a chance to unwind!
I went to have a look at the engine. It is oil fired, converted from coal in 1956. It is a Triple expansion steam engine (of course!). The engine room, and indeed many features of the ship, reminded me of the “Castles”: the Humber ferries I used to go on as a child when visiting my Grandma in Hull. They too were paddle steamers, built in the 1930s.
Steam Engine
Engine
We stayed not far off the coast of the island, taking in the views of the various towns and villages on the way. Portsmouth to Ryde ferries crossed our path. I wished that I had brought our hand held VHF radio to listen to any communications taking place. This would have been especially interesting while coming into Portsmouth, listening in to the pilots and the tug boats.
Once we rounded the easternmost tip of the island at Bembridge we turned west and into the breeze. The top deck got chilly and extra layers were put on. We sailed close to Sandown and Shanklin, sounding the ships horn as we passed Sandown Pier. It was The Waverly’s farewell goodbye for the season. A loud deep throated steam driven horn, I thought it would be good to have one like that on Oleanna.
Marion and John
We passed Ventnor then St Catherine’s Point, the most southerly point and the headwind picked up further. The sea got lumpier too. I don’t think Pip would have enjoyed this bit of the journey. It was choppy for an hour or so. It was really quite cold so we went downstairs to the bar and enjoyed cups of tea and slices of cake. There were some in the bar that looked a bit like they had been there all day!
Cake!
Bar
Approaching The Needles, the most westerly point of the voyage, and suitably refreshed we went back to the top deck. Obligatory photos were taken. The lighthouse was first constructed in 1859 and automated in 1994. There was a rocket testing base at The Needles where ICBM rocket engines were tested. It closed in 1971. Up until then it was a secret. It is now a National Trust property.
The Needles
Now heading east again and the wind was behind us. Past Hurst Castle on the mainland. This is the narrowest point of the Solent where we passed a tanker ship coming the other way.
It was a lovely trip along the north coast. Passing Yarmouth we had to avoid a Lymmington to Yarmouth ferry. We carried eastwards along the Solent, passing Cowes and Osborne House, Queen Victoria’s prefered holiday residence.
After a while we were approaching Portsmouth again. Again we slowed to pick up a pilot, the pilot himself taking pictures of the Waverley before he boarded. We then turned into Portsmouth, past the navy ships and two tugs again came to assist in docking.
Tug. Pushing rather than tugging.
This was the final destination of the day for the Waverley, she was going to stay overnight here then the next day head off on her last South Coast voyage of the season, to Swanage and return. There were buses laid on to pick us up. A couple of buses took some passengers just the short distance to the ferry port terminal. Then they returned to take us to The Hard, near where John had parked the car. A third bus would take people who wanted to return to Southampton railway station. We had to make sure we got on the right bus otherwise we would end up in the wrong place.
Then back in the car to Marion and John’s home in Eastbourne in time for a nightcap and bed.
A great day out! Maybe next year we’ll do a Scottish trip on The Waverley’s home waters.
Quarter of an hour earlier than of late we managed to push off, a small achievement but at least it was in the right direction.
Trees trees trees
Once down the Marple flight the Peak Forest Canal is just flat, there are two tunnels and a lift bridge for a bit of interest, but no locks. We pootled along, tunnel mode engaged for Hyde Bank Tunnel all 308 yards of it. I then bobbed below to give Tilly’s pooh box a refresh as I could tell she was desperate to go, wanted to use shore based facilities, wouldn’t be allowed onto the outside, her pooh box smelt! I can tell these things easier now I spend half an hour every day at her level on the floor!
A touch of autumnal knitting at the stern as we made our way along the tree lined canal. At Woodley Tunnel a Dad was cycling with his two kids along the towpath which goes through the tunnel. His daughter wasn’t peddling, just pushing herself along with both feet, making her Dad’s progress behind quite difficult. As soon as we passed there was no light in the tunnel and the daughter really wasn’t happy! I’m not sure how Dad coped with it all, I suspect the easiest way would have been to reverse out of the tunnel, but his son was way ahead. I hope next time they’ll equip their bikes with lights!
A rounder O would have helped
Past Joseph Adamson and Co, Est 1885. I wonder if originally they had planned for a rounder O than was used Or was the company actually Jo Seph Adamson and Co?
Under a couple of roving bridges. One with metal sides. Going under this it looked like the bridge has been expanded several times, I think we counted five different archways
Under the M67
The next bridge was under the M67, I think this is just about as close as we can get to Fallowfield where my nephew Josh is currently living at Manchester University. 5.3 miles as the crow flies.
Lifted just enough to get under
Who would wind up the lift bridge? I remember doing so on a hire boat, this I’m pretty sure would have been the first lift bridge I ever worked, unless I got the job on the Llangollen way back when! First thing was to remember what would be needed to unlock it, a handcuff key, not a Key of Power! I remember making the same mistake last time. 31 turns up and 21 down, it was hard work, maybe I’m loosing all my windlass lasspower.
I suppose it’ll do!
We pulled in a short distance on, enough outside before the drop down to the River Tame for Tilly to have some shore leave and not too close to the railway bridge. Before sitting down for lunch I gave the nettles along the bank a trim, intentions to do more to the grabrail.
Over lunch it decided to rain, this along with the bank not being right alongside Oleanna put me off getting the attachment of doom out to grind back the rusty bits. I just hope that I get a suitable mooring and suitable weather to get more done to them and the mushroom vent before too long.
Ashton Old Baths
A walk up to Lidl then Asda to do a ‘just in case’ Sunday roast shop and to buy a newspaper in the wet kept us busy. Three buildings caught our attention. The first not very architecturally significant, Ashton Primary Care Centre. This is where nine years ago a lovely nurse practitioner redressed my missing finger despite them not being allowed to do such things.
What lies inside the old baths
Next was Ashton Old Baths. Opened in the 1870s, Ashton Old Baths is one of the finest example of a former public swimming baths in the North of England. The building has housed concerts, held tennis matches and closed in 1975, the building remained derelict for 40 years until Tameside Council and Oxford Innovation decided to reinvent the space for the digital age. It’s a grand Victorian building from the outside, inside it holds a wooden pod. More info can be found here.
Cavendish Mill
The other building is Cavendish Mill a former cotton spinning mill. It was built between 1884 and 1885 to a fireproof design and was the first mill in Ashton to be built with concrete floors and a flat roof. What stands out though is it’s octagonal staircase around the base of the chimney. The mill ceased spinning cotton in 1934, then was used for various purposes until it was converted into housing in 1994.
0 locks, 6.4 miles,1 lift bridge, 2 tunnels, 1 great looking outside, 1 mediocre outside, 2 many woofers, 1 plan postponed, 1 Sunday roast purchased just in case, 1 dormant pizza boat neighbour.
Tilly had the right idea this morning. I then had a better one.
To help use up some yoghurt I hunted out a recipe for some pancakes. It sounded good, light fluffy pancakes made with yoghurt, eggs and gf flour. I added in some blueberries too. They were nice, but I wouldn’t say they puffed up that much to be classed as fluffy though.
Yoghurt pancakes
More sock editing, by the end of the day I’d managed to get half way through the photos, reducing the space they use up to about a fifth. I’ve also added apage to start showing off the socks I’ve knitted. This will gradually get added to, as and when I have the time.
Thank you John
I considered walking into Macclesfield to have a look round, but that would have meant a walk down a hill, to then walk up a hill, then the same on the return. My left knee suggested that my time would be better spent editing photos instead.
Quite a few boats have come past today, plenty of hire boats doing the Cheshire Ring, all bundled up to keep warm.
The ash bucket was moved to the stern of Oleanna for ease of access and the fire lit. Tilly only popped out a couple of times today then she just settled down on the sofa, being cosy. Much better than having an altercation over who the towpath belongs to with another boat cat two bows away. I’m sharing it nicely with them today as you suggested.
The wetness returns
Mick’s train journey was a lot easier back from the south coast, this time via London, his final train arriving back into Macclesfield 7 minutes late. He managed to bring back the rain with him and some strong winds that make the nappy pin on the cruiser in front squeak in a really annoying way! I think tomorrow we’ll have to move on.
Left over campfire stew tonight with mashed potato. Just as nice as it was first time.
0 locks, 0 miles,10 more socks edited, 9 added to the blog, 357 photos deleted, 1 stove lit, 1 Mick home, 7 minutes late, 1 handy mini glass dome for model making, 1 rainy evening.
1 An outside that Tilly hopefully wouldn’t use up within one afternoon.
2 Somewhere not too far away from civilisation and shops to keep me occupied should I need supplies.
3 Near to a train station for Mick. Bollington had been considered but that would have meant a bus ride, here was just a walk down the hill to Macclesfield Station.
Monday.
Mick packed a bag after breakfast, then checked the status of his train, a direct service to Southampton. It was cancelled! Thankfully there was a train an hour earlier, so the packing had to be a touch quicker and off he went. Thankfully Tilly was far too busy to follow him along the towpath.
Here she comes
His trip? A belated 65th Birthday present from Marion and John, a days cruise around the Isle of Wight on the PS Waverley. Last year they had been booked on a trip from Portsmouth, but a storm meant it was cancelled and the PS Waverley ran away around the coast before the winds arrived. He is under instruction to take photos, even been sent with my camera, I’m hoping he’ll write a post about it.
Why haven’t I gone too? I don’t like lumpy water and the thought of being on a boat that might be lumping around all day is something I simply wouldn’t enjoy, I’d feel quite trapped, so I’ve opted to stay on board with Tilly.
All stocked up.
My main job today was to wait for NB Alton to arrive. Out on their fortnightly run along the summit pound, we’d placed an order for some coal and a diesel top up. At 1:30 I heard the hooter as they came under Holland’s Bridge. Brian at the helm and Paul lugging the coal about. 2 bags on the roof and one in the well deck. Then they moved up to top us up on diesel, £1.04. Good to see Brian out on NB Alton, it’s always good to support the coal boats.
My knees were complaining today after working the locks on Saturday, but I managed a walk to the nearest post box and then around the block before returning to get on with some knitting. Pair of socks 38 had the top finished off. Yarn for pair 39 was selected, Autumn Golds. I may add some berries to them too as up on the Macc the trees are filled with them at the moment.
Golds
The afternoon was spent knitting in front of On The Basis Of Sex 2018. A film based on the story of Ruth Bader Ginsburg who was the second woman to serve as Associate Justice of the United States Supreme Court. She specialised in sex discrimination and the law, and takes on a case where a man was unfairly discriminated against because of his sex in a tax case. If she won then the case could be used as precedent challenging laws that discriminate against women.
Tilly did a good job of keeping my knees nice and warm. It’s a very important job
Tuesday.
Mick was guaranteed to be having a cooked breakfast in his hotel this morning, so to be fair to myself I cooked some mushrooms on toast, very nice they were too. This was to give me enough energy to start weeding out photos. Our storage is constantly filled, so some time editing photos was needed.
I didn’t need lunch today
Long gone are those days when you took a camera on holiday with you, a roll of film, maybe two if you could afford it. 36 frames if you were extra flush. Photo opportunities had to be considered, you couldn’t go wasting that film or flash cubes! Twelve years ago I took it upon myself to scan all my Dad’s slides and I was surprised at how few were rubbish! Maybe he’d wheedled them out, but knowing him they would have been there to keep the numbering system correct. I had to edit them, so scanned any with people and places that meant things to Andrew and myself. This gives us a wonderful resource to look back on when ever we want without having to arrange a dinner party, dig out the projector and a screen, then spend hours sorting the slides into order (that’s where the numbering system came in).
Now we have digital cameras, phones, all so easy to press the button three four times to get that one good shot. On a day like today I’ll take just a handful of photos, but on big days when ascending the Anderton Boat Lift I took getting on for 120, the night time flotilla on the Thames, well it could have been 3 to 400! As I go through them I edit out the bad ones, but there is more editing needed. Mick has already moved a couple of years of boating photos to a different Onedrive as we keep reaching our storage limit and we don’t want to pay for more space.
Socks socks sock coming out of my ears!
I had an idea when I started this years sockathon, a means of showing all the socks off. So as I finish a pair they need recording. Not just one photo, but several, hopefully one day I’ll find enough time to compile them all together. So I have a LOT of photos of socks, several of each. Today I sat down thinking I’d manage to get through the big folder and make it considerably smaller. Well after 4 hours of auditioning photos, I needed a walk.
The Old Hovis Mill
Along the canal, past the Old Hovis Mill and the basin. The collapsed wall just by Black Road Bridge has been rebuilt, for years the rubble of the wall lay across the closed towpath. Now open, but big cracks are showing, it looks like someone has hoped that adding more mortar in places will help. I fear it’s only a matter of time before big chunks collapse again.
Not looking so cleaver
The pontoon moorings were full. I turned up Buxton Road to walk to the Co-op. A few new shops/cafes/bakery. Tommys Bar and Pizza looked interesting even though there was a big shutter behind the windows. Then a couple of doors up was Early Bird Bakes. Not open today and sadly they are unlikely to sell anything for me, but it looked very interesting. They are open four days a week and their bread takes 48 hours to make, lots of tasty sounding pastry labels sat on the empty shelves. I suspect it’s a place well worth a visit if you come this way.
Maple Pecan Buns!
This evening I’ve had a go at stuffing some peppers. The outcome was tasty, but I should have got the peppers cooking before I stuffed them! Next time! There’s two left over for lunch in the next couple of days too.
Reports from the south coast came through all day. Lots of every exciting things to look at, an hour of lumpy water, I was right not to go. I could track PS Waverley as it made it’s way round the Isle of Wight, even visiting a garden in Portsmouth!
By the end of the day I think I’d achieved editing 1/3rd of my sock photos. Guess what I’ll be doing tomorrow?
Cheryl’s socks
As a reward I turned on The Great British Bake Off, it must be autumn. Maybe I should have a go at the technical challenges each week as I’m not going to be busy with panto this year. But maybe our waistlines would like it too much!
0 locks, 0 miles, 2 sausage days, 0 one told me they were sausage days!!!! 79 litres, 3 bags coal, 2 short walks, 253 photos of socks down to 74, 53347279 left to edit.
There was an hours worth of shore leave whilst we had breakfast and joined the Geraghty zoom. Subjects included Blue Peter badges, pig swill, Tuesdays or Thursdays, copper nails and chicken costumes. Everyone was present today apart from Sean who hopefully wasn’t wearing a green trouser suit!
A few brave boats had come past us already. The wind and quite a lot of rain in the air. We’d have to brave it too as we needed to move nearer to Macclesfield or Bollington today. Winter waterproof padded trousers came out to go with waterproof coats and we pushed off a little after 11am.
Sheltering from the wind
Back in our NB Winding Down days we’d headed up this way one bonfire night hoping to be able to watch other peoples fireworks over looking Macclesfield. We didn’t manage to get far enough, so moored up close to a house and enjoyed our sparklers and a couple of fireworks of our own.
Today on the offside there was lots to glimpse at between the trees. What looked a bit like a bike track with ramps etc, all covered in plastic sheeting. Some of these have been made around trees and sections of walling have been added. Is this a hobbit town in the making on the steep bank? I’ve tried to find out about it but to no avail.
All worked with a key and finger
No locks today, just two swing bridges. Royal Oak Swing Bridge behaved itself and I managed to catch two cars as Mick brought Oleanna through. The Fools Nook pub is still for sale and a canal side house is coming along nicely with a very large glazed room which currently looks like it’s being used as a carpenters workshop. Wonder if they are aware that the end wall and french windows are leaning out at the top?
A line of armco right next to a great stretch of wood, perfect for Tilly, but too far away from shops, we carried on leaving a lady washing her roof down in the rain.
Pull the handle up and push
Broadhurst Swing Bridge was closed. I hopped off with the key of power to do the honours. This bridge is manual, pop your key in, turn, lift the handle to release the bridge, then push. It’s always been tricksy to find the right place to turn your key to, but someone has marked the position on the lock, very handy you just need to know to turn your key anti clockwise.
Them there be hills!
Now the big swing round to the Gurnett Aqueduct, views opening up to the hills even on a very wet day. There were a couple of spaces on the aqueduct, but what lay behind the fence was a little worrying for the cat health and safety committee, so here was rejected. NB Amy Jo and NB The Boat were moored up together at the far end, we’d last seen NB The Boat on the New Junction Canal in March.
Looking down the houses at Gurnett Aqueduct
Under Foden Bank Bridge 43, one of our favourites with it’s canal roving bridge hugged by a road bridge. The bridge builders had perfected their curves by the time they got to this bridge. Then we made our way along the side of the big wall that holds back the land east of the canal.
She’s got curves
Between bridges 40 and 39 there is a stretch of mooring, we’ve once managed to pull in here. Back gardens open out into a wild field just perfect for cat exploration. Enough to keep Tilly occupied without needing to venture near to roads. We pulled in, adjusted our position a touch to avoid something under the water. Now we could settle down and get out of the rain. That’s when they open up the doors for me, so that I can get wet!
Click photo for recipe
After lunch I put together a pot of Campfire Stew, so that it could slowly cook on top of the multifuel stove. I’d seen the recipe a week or so ago and fancied a go at it, you are meant to do it in a slow cooker, but it worked well on the stove. Jacket potatoes cooked in their too to accompany it, plenty of left overs for another meal next week. Very tasty, I’ll be making that again.
0 locks, 4.3 miles, 2 swing bridges, 2 held up, 1 wet and windy day, 1 ideal mooring 4 cat, 4 Mick, 4 Pip, 1 big vat of campfire stew.
