At around 3:15am we were woken by what sounded like an outboard motor. We laid in bed fully aware of the noise hoping that it would pass by us reasonably quickly, but it stayed constant. Constantly annoying with a bit of revving added into the mix, or may that was a motor bike. After a while Mick opened up the hatch to see what he could see, it was quite dark. A small strange looking cruiser was pulled up quite close to our stern with it’s engine running.
Currently Mick’s tool box has a nomadic life and yesterday had been left out under the pram cover. Just in case someone was eying our possessions Mick popped out the back to bring it inside. Other than move there wasn’t really anything we were willing to do about the noise. Yes one of us could have politely asked them to move to turn their engine off, but at that time of night it didn’t seem wise.
The revving stopped, possibly a motorbike had headed off. Then after at least half an hour we noticed the engine noise had stopped too. Thank goodness! We fell back asleep.
On waking this morning I opened up the side hatch to inspect our new neighbours. Well the canal bank was just as empty as it had been when we arrived, not a boat in sight! Maybe whatever happened last night was the reason for there being no boats on this stretch!
Thankfully no alarm was required this morning as we hadn’t really got that far to go. So we had a relaxed breakfast and pushed off a little before 11.
I wanted to pick up a few bits of shopping so we pulled over so that I could visit Alperton Sainsburys which was thankfully not heaving. We pushed back out to move over to the water point through the bridge on the off side. Mick admitted we’d actually pulled out in front of another boat, they were the kind of distance away where up north it would have been polite to wait for them to pass.
I looked behind us and there almost angel like a chap stood at the helm, highlighted by the sun before dipping into the darkness of the next bridge. I knew who that was!
As the bow came back into the light my suspicions were confirmed, it was NB Billy with Pete at the helm, Clare soon popped her head up at the stern lifted binoculars to her eyes, we waved back.
NB Billy overtaking
Last night on Facebook people were making comments regarding the new eco moorings in London, Clare had made a comment that she hoped her booked mooring at Little Venice would be unoccupied on their arrival. Well we were going to be neighbours! We last saw NB Billy last year near Newby Hall on the River Ure, they were returning from Ripon as we were heading there. Earlier in the summer we’d shared most of the western locks on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal.
What a stupid configuration, fine if approaching from the other way
We pulled into the water point and let them pass, we’d catch up later. Now the elsan and waterpoint at Alperton are not the easiest to get to. A railing has been put in to stop people from falling in, but this means we’d have to pull along onto the permanent moorings and hope our hose would reach to the tap as there was nowhere else to get off your almost 60ft boat. We decided against it and would fill the tank on reaching Little Venice.
North Circular
We followed at a reasonable distance, both boats catching up with another who waved us past. The going was very slow, plenty of weed below the waters surface.
A temporary bridge has been put in over the canal for HS2 even though the line is a touch further away from the canal. From here numerous pipes, possibly containing electrics snake along the bank and through the water for quite a distance.
We passed more colourful boats, piles of rubbish and strangely enough several mooring spots big enough for us. But we knew there would be space for us up ahead so there was no need to take note of them.
The row of terraced houses that back onto the canal in Kensal Rise always make you wonder how many more such streets used to back onto the canal and do they have a problem with rising damp! Imagine the outcry from London boaters should the canal walls require repointing and a stretch be dewatered.
A good view from up there Pete
One property has a lot of satellite dishes on the back wall. Is it flats? Why would someone need so many dishes? Well it turns out it is the rear of Jamal Satellites, so that’s why.
It felt as though there was a lot more graffiti about. Mostly tags, some quite good, but very little of serious artistic merit.
Two years ago, where the Westway offers shade to the canal there was a series of wooden ramps and a drop in centre of sorts, but that is long gone, instead piles of rubbish line the wall, rather sad really.
Is that Micky?
A short distance on a red haired lady was chatting to a chap on the towpath, she pointed at something on the canal. I recognise that face! It was Micky whom we’ve met several times up at Crick in fact when Oleanna was brand new she was one of the first to make a bee line to have a nosy.
The last stretch
The water point on the near side of Westbourne Terrace was occupied, but the one on the other side was vacant. Oleanna is a touch too long to slot in here, but the water tank needed filling up, so we slotted in as best we could, stern sticking out under the bridge. Thankfully no widebeams came along which would have meant having to move.
Not the best place for a water point
Micky came and joined us for a chat as the trickle from the tap did it’s best to fill our tank. It was nice to see her and have a catch up. When she left to head home we decided we’d cope with what water we had, we can always top up the tank later without loosing our spot if needs be.
We have reached our destination!
We followed the one way signs round the island and pulled into our spot at Rembrandt Gardens. A catch up and compare cruising stories was had between us and Clare and Pete, very good to see them again. Sadly their hope of finding the other half of the original Billy on the K&A didn’t pay off, but they’d had a good time cruising there and back.
Hmmm?!
Rembrandt Gardens back at the beginning of 2015 had only just started to be a bookable mooring in London. The day we arrived in January that year was the day we met Heather Bleasdale. Today is our second visit and we find ourselves sharing the mooring with Clare and Pete. I wonder if we’ll know our next neighbours here?
These trees are maybe a touch too big!
Back in February when the roadmap out of lockdown was announced I suggested to Mick that we look to see if any of the moorings in London were available. I think we looked within ten minutes of the announcement being made. Paddington and Rembrandt Garden bookable moorings are usually booked up months and months in advance, but we were lucky, we got in before anyone else had the idea. We booked our slot, we just needed to get to London and escape from Goole!
Little Venice with the Lady A going past
So over the last month we have accomplished our mission to get to London. 293.15 miles and 143 locks. Now it’s time to actually see some family in the flesh.
0 locks, 7.33 miles, 3:15 noisy neighbour, 2 pints milk, 5m wrapping paper, 1 glowing Pete hopscotching us, 2 boats for Rembrandt Gardens, 1 Micky, 0.75 full water tank, 1 bemused cat, 29 days, 293.15 miles, 143 locks, 1 escape plan accomplished, 1 happy Oleanna, 2 happy boaters, 4 humongous trees!
A boat came past as we were finishing breakfast, no point in rushing to get ready to join them as it would take at least quarter of an hour to get ourselves sorted. So about half an hour later we pushed off, light weight rainy clothes required as the air was full of drizzle.
The bridges in Berko have had a make over, paint and statistics to brighten a grey gloomy day. As we came towards Ravens Lane Lock we were admiring the hanging baskets on the interesting house with coloured bottles in it’s windows, I’d love to see inside one day, a lady walked out onto her balcony.
I now want to know even more bout the lady who lives here
We made a comment about her hanging baskets, not in bloom yet but so many they will be spectacular when they are. The lady then asked if our boat was named after the play. Well, Oleanna is and the lady was correct, the first person ever to make the connection. There was just time to chat a little, we both agreed that Oleanna (by David Mamet) is an extreamly good play, my favourite and that it was about time it was put on in the West End. I vote for Malcolm Hebden to direct it as the production I saw in Scarborough in 1995 is most certainly the best I’ve seen.
We descended four more locks on our own, at Sewer Lock we just about caught up with the narrowboat in front of us, they had been slowed by a widebeam that was weaving across the navigation. We did catch up with them at the next lock and then shared the rest of the days locks.
The Hemel Crew
Stood at Winkwell Swing Bridge was my old college friend Jen who lives in Hemel Hempstead. Two years ago she joined us for a few hours of boating, last night she’d noticed on Social Media that we were near and had volunteered to come and join us again.
Jen winding a windlass again
Using the key of power I got the bridge moving quickly, only holding up a few cars, one of which disappeared whilst I was chatting away to Jen. Both boats came through, there was just enough time to pop Jen’s bike on Oleanna before it was our turn to work down Winkwell Bottom Lock. The widebeam thankfully had reached it’s destination at the marina below so the way ahead was clear.
Nearly there
We worked down the next five locks with NB Candi or is it NB CandI? Jen soon remembered what to do at the locks and we chatted away the hours until we reached the 24hr mooring by Sainsburys. Here we moored up, enough space for both boats, then had a very late lunch.
It was so lovely to see Jen and have a catch up. She’d decided to take a sabbatical from working at the National Theatre in January last year to do some scenic art tutoring amongst other things. This of course didn’t go too well and meant that when all the staff were furloughed from the theatre she missed out. So when October came along and there were shows that needed painting again Jen went back to working three days a week on the South Bank. Lockdown had been hard for her and her family, her son very much missing out on the social interaction with his friends at school.
We all had a lovely afternoon and if only she’d work for free and come and help me paint panto that would be wonderful. The thought of a weeks painting in Cornwall in a workshop with fresh Cornish Pasties being made next door nearly swung it.
By the time we said our goodbyes it was too late to do a big shop at Sainsburys. So instead we did ourselves a Click and Collect for the morning, which would only delay our departure by a little bit.
Last lock of the day
Because our mooring is right by an access road into the retail units for wagons we don’t allow Tilly out here, much to her distain. How ridiculous! Then She gets all annoyed with me for something that She hadn’t done. In fact dear readers I got shouted at! I’d been trying to tell her that my pooh box needed refreshing, but She’d been distracted all day long. So she didn’t take too kindly to my making use of the fresh litter whilst it was still in it’s bag!
Please let this be finished
14 locks, 8 shared, 5.1 miles, 1 swing bridge, 4 held up, 1st person to make the connection, 1 extra crew member, 4 hours of constant chattering, 1 hunt for eco glitter, 1 click and collect sorted, 1 protest wee, 1 hour cleaning the bathroom! 50 panto model photos, 1 email sent, 0 regrets, 1 fish, 1 obligatory photo.
Get yourself a cuppa and put your feet up, this is a long post.
Into BUMingham
Having seen New Year in on the North Stratford Canal we commenced the new year by cruising in to Birmingham or as Tilly would have it know, BUMingham, she’s not too keen!
What a stripy world!
A meeting with Amy from Dark Horse Theatre Company about a project in the summer set out our years cruising as I’d need to be in Huddersfield then York for the show. Then it was time to pack and get myself ready for ten days in Vienna. This would be the longest I’ve been away from boat life since we set out in 2014. Half of my clothes were packed up along with a basic scene painting kit and I jetted off to what was a mixed experience. Despite the problems I had a wonderful time working with a great team in the theatre, I hope one day to return.
Whilst I marvelled at the wonderful scenes in Vienna and pulled my hair out at work, trying to keep a calm exterior, Mick and Tilly headed back out into the countryside towards Tardebigge on the Worcester and Birmingham. Here they met up with a friend Chris who was planning a boat build.
Hello!
Mick and Tilly came back into Birmingham to pick me up and then we set about exploring the BCN. There is plenty to explore and we didn’t quite manage to go everywhere, but we did our best.
Smethwick Locks
We headed up Smethwick New Locks onto the Old Main line. Stopped at Dudley Port Basin, coconuts accompanied us down Brades Staircase, then through Netherton Tunnel where we’d planned on visiting Hawne Basin, but thick ice thwarted our first attempt. The following day we succeeded and had a bumpy ride along the Dudley No 2 to fill our diesel tank.
Emma and Ted
Factory Locks brought us back onto the Old Main Line, we visited Wolverhampton, turned onto the Wyrley and Essington Canal and wiggled our way through the rubbish to Pelsall Junction. Here we had a wonderful get together with my bestestest friend and her son Ted (my Godson) who were over from Sydney, an all but too short lunch with them before they headed onwards on their whistlestop tour of England.
The Cannock Extension and Anglesey Branch were ticked off followed by the Daw End Branch, The Rushall Canal, Tame Valley Canal and up the Ryders Green Locks back into the centre of BUMingham early February.
I designed costumes and made the white card model for The Garden for Dark Horse whilst we sat out storm Ciara which was to wipe out the Figure of Three Locks on the Calder Hebble. The damage to the locks looked great and not fixable quickly, a rethink to our cruising route was needed for me to get to work in the summer.
We went to the Symphony Hall and listened to Schubert and Berg spurred on by Dimitrios from NB Galene. Storm Dennis kept us from cruising to our next evening of entertainment at Titford Pump House, a bus replacement did the job so that we could see Alarum Theatre Company’s Acts of Abandonment. Little did we know at the time that this was to be our last live theatre until December.
A night out in the countryside for Tilly and a last night in the city to fill our bellies with curry. Then we were off again, up Smethwick Locks under the M5 where the scaffolding was being taken down. We turned up the Oldbury Locks following a boat that turned out to be NB Sola Gratia. A spin round the Titford Pools was in order before we returned for another diesel top up at Hawne Basin.
The Walsall Canal now beckoned us, that was a bumpy ride over trolleys, trees and all sorts! A fantastic fabric shop, the New Art Gallery right by our mooring and The Leather Museum kept our interest for a couple of days before we climbed up the Walsall Locks back up to Wyrley and Essington Canal.
The garden at Urban Moorings
The ladies at Urban Moorings welcomed us for an overnight visit, time to work the washing machine hard as we plugged into the electric. Then we kept our fingers crossed for a mooring at The Black Country Museum, which thankfully worked.
Marion and John came to meet us for an afternoon at the museum and we all enjoyed fish and chips with plenty of salt and vinegar in between visiting shops and watching chain links being made. The following day we took a boat trip into the Dudley Tunnel, had a second visit to the museum along with a portion of chips before heading out to moor in Tipton and have a visit from Heather from NB Bleasdale, followed by a pie at Mad O’Roukes Pie Factory.
The 7th of March saw us descend the Wolverhampton 21, leaving the Birmingham plateau behind us. Blimey we managed to pack a lot into the first ten weeks of the year! Just as well really. Onto the Shroppie where I had my first successes with gluten free sour dough bread, Tilly got to remember life in the countryside and we were treated to Shroppie Sunsets again.
Burgers with the Margees
The recent storms had brought down numerous trees and caused landslips so our progress was a touch slow heading northwards. We had a lovely lunch with Alison and Laura the Margees at Norbury Junction, they were to be our last visitors on board Oleanna for quite sometime.
Passing NB Bessie Surtees on the Tyrley Locks we actually got chance to chat for the first time. A stop to stock up in Market Drayton, we saw our first homemade mask (a pair of y fronts repurposed) and the start of empty shelves in supermarkets with people gleeful to have a twelve pack of toilet roll under their coat.
The Audlem flight was busy with plenty going down and NB Mountbatten coming up, delivering coal as they went. Theatres closed that day and we started to put into practice new ways of working locks hoping to keep ourselves safe. As we socially distanced around the shops in Nantwich people were joking about the virus. We shopped, adapting what we bought to what was available and then got ready for our first Zoom with family on the 21st March.
We stocked up with NB Halsall at Calverley then made our way onto the Middlewich Branch and down Cholmondeston Lock. The following morning (23rd March) we listened to our gut instincts. If lockdown was to happen we’d rather not have to negotiate locks to get to shops or services, so we winded and headed back up Cholmondeston Lock onto the Nantwich pound. Our gut instinct was correct.
Adam and Adrian on NB Briar Rose
The next few days we saw plenty of boats moving, finding places they wanted to spend the coming weeks, heading for home or temporary ones like NB Briar Rose. Jac my sister in law eventually managed to get a flight back from Melbourne where she’d been to celebrate her Mum’s birthday, at last everyone was where they should be.
We tried different moorings out for size as the need to fill with water or get shopping arose. It was also good to keep Tilly moving, both to stop her from getting bored and to help the local wildlife survive.
Our decision to be on the Nantwich pound turned out to be a good one, we ended up mooring at the bottom of Hurleston on the visitor moorings most, this became ‘Home’ for us where we watched spring turn into summer.
Watching the field behind the hedge be ploughed, planted and start to grow. Listening to the Lapwings enjoying the bounty in the potato fields. Getting to know our neighbours at a distance. The wheelie shoppers. The huskies out for their morning walk. The egg farm at the top of the locks. Weekly veg boxes from Nantwich Veg Boxes which we collected for ourselves and NB AreandAre. Supermarket deliveries were sought each week, sometimes only managing click and collect. The sun shone and Tilly had freedom. The coal boats kept us stocked up with fuel and our waterless (composting) toilet took one need to move out of the equation.
By mid-April my design for The Garden had been reimagined into an illustrated audio play. I was to do the illustrations, then they would have audio and some animation added to be available online. Chippy panto started to gear up with the hope that all would be back to normal-ish by the end of November for the show to be mounted.
We winded, went for walks, watched plays on the internet, winded, ate cheese scones, winded again! Tilly ventured further afield, across her field. We had barbeques, brownies and watched the reservoir banks get mown by remote control.
By Mid-May we were allowed to travel, so we hired a car for a day trip to Scarborough to see how our house was after the tenants had lost it during lockdown. In need of some tlc we now made plans for the rest of the year. We would be returning to life on land for a while, but planned on cruising as much as we could before then.
On the 23rd of May the suspension of the 14 day rule was lifted, our ‘home’ mooring was now 48 hours only so it was time to start moving again. Some boats around Hurleston headed off straight away, others remained a full 14 days before pushing off. We spent the next two weeks pootling to the far ends of the pound, Hack Green and Calvereley, the gunnels got a repaint and we said farewell to NB AreandAre who were heading up onto the Llangollen.
Cholmondeston Lock
With a full boat of veg and fruit from Nantwich Veg boxes, a Sainsburys shop and a visit from NB Halsall we were ready and on the 10th June we pushed our ‘home’ mooring away for the last time this year, Calverely was visited for a top up of water a toilet refresh and then we were off, turning onto the Middlewich Branch and descending Cholmondeston Lock, our first lock in 80 days. New gardening gloves became my boaters PPE and worked well, better than sanitising every five minutes.
Across onto the Trent and Mersey where we headed for Bramble Cuttings for a couple of nights. We’d been hoping to be able to drop down onto the Weaver but the Anderton Boat lift was still closed. So instead we winded at Whatcroft flash and headed up the Cheshire Locks hoping to catch Bosley Locks being open for a day to make our way onto the summit pound of the Macclesfield.
Nice Lock
It was nice being back on familiar ground again, although it took a little while to be able to do the Trent and Mersey hurdles over the lockgate beams with ease after sitting still for so long.
Our chairs were brought out onto the towpath to watch the setting sun at Tilly Railings and a barbeque was enjoyed on the Dane Aqueduct as we waited in line for Bosley Locks to open.
Bosley Locks and The Cloud in the background
With a single hander in front and one behind everyone helped out where we could making our passage up the locks a very jolly if hot one that only took 2.5 hours. Over the next ten days or so we pootled our way along the Macclesfield Canal, such a lovely stretch of water and oh those bridges! Still our favourites.
Calling in at Bollington Wharf we had our gas locker lid mended and had a top up of diesel. Foxgloves filled the canal banks and woods, we stopped at favourite spots along the way turning under the snake bridge at Marple onto the Peak Forest Canal at the end of June, heading for Whaley Bridge and Bugsworth Basin.
Saturday 4th July the pubs could re-open, we however went for a walk and waited for our delivery from Sainsburys along with a diesel top up from NB Alton. A batch of cheese scones were made to help us down the Marple flight on the 7th, we were the second boat down and it felt like we were pioneering boats going where no one had gone for months.
A couple of nights at Droylesden Marina saw to the washing pile and to recharge our batteries before we descended into Manchester. Our last narrow lock of the year was to be Ancotes Bottom Lock 1 on the Ashton Flight where we paused for a night at Telford Basin before tackling the Rochdale 9 on our own the following day. Patience and sheer determination got us out of Lock 92 at the bottom and was rewarded with a cheese scone as we made our way out to the Bridgewater Canal and Worsely.
The 14th July saw us rising up the Wigan Flight. We’d made arrangements to share the locks with NB Billy but it was decided by the volunteer lock keepers that they might be over long to share with, so instead we teamed up with John and Lindsey on NB Merganser. With the help of the Wigan Flight crew setting ahead we made good time up the flight, we then slowed down leaving the others to head off ahead of us.
The next few days we found ourselves leapfrogging NB Billy, or should that be hopfrogging? But we finally caught them up at Blackburn to share the locks. Another spectacular sunset was enjoyed by all near Foster Swing Bridge.
We’d planned to take our time along this stretch, but with local lockdowns looking possible in the area we decided to push on. The Burnley Embankment was busy with walkers and not a place to stop so we continued on to the bottom of Barrowford Locks. The following day we were caught up again by NB Billy so we shared the final flight up to the summit with Clare and Pete.
Our sixth anniversary of being fulltime boaters happened to coincide with pulling up at our favourite mooring on the network, the curley wurlys above Bank Newton. The following day the clouds lifted and we got to see the view. A barbecue was just managed before it started to rain.
It wasn’t quite plain sailing down into Skipton as the skipper of NB Amelie ended up in the cut at the bottom of Bank Newton and then we had problems with lock gates and swing bridges. Mick and I had an overnight in Scarborough leaving Tilly in charge and with the magic food bowl primed. On our return to Skipton we were met by two octogenarians leaning out of the upstairs windows of their house waving. We joined Margaret and Robert for a lovely meal, good to see them even if we were a bit nervy being in their company inside.
Sunny weather accompanied us onwards and finally I managed to take the photo I’ve been after for four years, Oleanna coming towards me under Parson’s Bridge. Now we have the matching pair, Lillian going away from us, Oleanna towards.
At Bingley five rise we teamed up with NB Barley to descend with the help of Lock Keeper Clare, carrying on to Saltaire in the sunshine.
A pause in Rodley meant we could meet up with friends Graham and Tracy in their new garden room, very nice to have a good catch up with them. The following day we took the opportunity to have lunch with my cousins Julie and John, our first pub in months.
Meeting up with Jenny and Andy on NB Barley again we shared the locks down into Leeds with them early the next day. A lack of water meant it took an hour to do one pound as water was let down from above, but we made it in the end to Granary Wharf. Shame the lack of water followed us, in fact the basin did a good job of emptying itself overnight. It took quite a few hours before boats had enough water to be afloat again, we all made a hasty exit as soon as we could.
Back into the big locks of the Aire and Calder we motored on to Ferrybridge where now only three of the power station cooling towers remain, a very sad sight.
Down Bank Dole Lock, the slow filler and we headed to Selby. Our trip up the Tidal Ouse was an interesting one a there were SO many trees floating about, we had to try our best to loose them before passing through what few bridges there were. Kingfishers escorted us just about all the way to Naburn which was a real treat. Instead of pulling up in York we decided to head on up to Ripon, we’d spend time in York on our way back, or so we thought!
Above Boroughbridge a familiar boat came into view, NB Billy. This was the last time our bows would cross this year. At Oxclose Lock we had some time for Tilly to explore before heading up into Ripon Basin to meet up with Robert and Margaret again and for Tilly to show off her ability to spot otters.
I’d get it in the neck if I didn’t include a photo!
On our way downstream the river was rising, we stopped off for a meal at The Dawney Arms making the most of the Eat out to Help out deal. Wonderful food and chance to meet up with Kerry the Landlady and hoped that the river level would ease overnight. Fortunately it did and we made our way in to York. We had hoped to meet up with old friends whilst we were in the area, it turned out the only people I got to see where Jaye and Duncan for lunch. Social distancing, rising rivers sadly put paid to seeing other people.
Over the next ten days the river rose twice. On one fall we made it back into York to pick up a supermarket delivery but very quickly headed back to Naburn where we ended up breasting up in a line of four boats tied to the floating pontoon by the water point. Levels didn’t rise so much as to necessitate wellies or waders, but it did put paid to the London Leckenbys joining us for a few days at the nearby campsite. A big disappointment all round.
But on the 31st August levels had dropped sufficiently for us to head back to Selby accompanied by Richard and Heather on NB Isabella, new boat owners. Naburn was their very first lock, Selby was to be their second! It was such a beautiful morning, we led the way but then let them go first when we reached Selby, we were likely to be able to stem the tide better, but they managed the lock with ease.
Lovely to see Bridget and Storm
At West Haddelsey we had a visit from Bridget and Storm, so lovely to see them. We’d planned on being good and sitting out, they’d even brought their own chairs and the camper van for their own toilet. But as it started to rain we bent the rules taking shelter inside Oleanna. This was the day I gave a second phone to the god of the cut.
For a replacement we headed down to Goole, calling in at Viking Marina to check we would have a mooring later in the month. After filling up with cheap diesel we then headed off up toward Doncaster and Sprotbrough where we caught up with Mick’s niece Fran, before returning back onto the Aire and Calder to do maintenance jobs and enjoy our last days onboard.
On the 18th September we pulled into our berth at the marina, finished off the contents of the freezer and started to pack. Two trips in a hire car to Scarborough and we were moved, Tilly joining us the second time.
Back then we imagined we’d be down to Oleanna doing jobs on day trips and by now we’d have had a couple of weeks out on the cut, but this simply wasn’t to be.
Living Room reclaimed
Jobs in the house keep me busy, along with starting work on the postponed Chippy panto. Mick for a while applied for supermarket jobs, hoping to be a delivery driver. The only job he was offered was as a meet and greeter just before Novembers lockdown. We both decided that maybe we’d cope without the money.
Not as low as she got after the breach
Then before Christmas came the news of the Aire and Calder breach. Fortunately plenty of people are keeping an eye on all the boats including Oleanna.
Blimey what a year!
So our vital statistics for the year 2020 according to canal plan are
Total distance is 792 miles, 2 ½ furlong and 339 locks . There are 82 moveable bridges of which 5 are usually left open; 233 small aqueducts or underbridges and 41 tunnels – a total of 19 miles 6 ¾ furlongs underground and 8 major aqueducts.
This is made up of 365 miles, ¼ furlongs of narrow canals; 242 miles, 4 ¾ furlongs of broad canals; 81 miles, 3 ¾ furlongs of commercial waterways; 76 miles, 1 ¾furlongs of small rivers; 0 miles of large rivers; 27 miles of tidal rivers; 202 narrow locks; 118 broad locks; 18 large locks; 1 lock on major waterways.
Sadly with Oleanna’s log book where it should be, onboard, I’m not able to offer up the engine hours, litres of diesel, gas bottle or bags of coal. This year I can’t even work out how many boxes of wine we’ve gone through!
However I can tell you that from one page of journeys on our trip computer, missing out all the journeys in between the start of the page and the end, the total distance travelled would have been 2.25 furlongs. Instead it actually amounted to 56 miles 7.5 furlongs with 19 winds (turning around). This was of course in Lockdown 1. Grand total number of winds this year, 67.
Christmas Day 2020, Scarborough Spa
Here’s hoping that the pandemic calms down, we all get vaccinated and the breach on the Aire and Calder gets sorted so that we can go boating again. After all we didn’t plan to move back on land permanently!
Granary Wharf to Woodlesford Lock, Aire and Calder Navigation
Being moored in a city centre you expect noise and because we tend to moor in different places most days we tend to ignore air conditioning droning, dawn choruses, the odd bit of railway noise. But last night there must have been workers on the tracks above our heads as several trains, one at 2:15, sounded their horn! This and it being a warm night didn’t make for a good nights sleep.
Two stones down!
With a plan for the morning, shopping, top up the water tank and then be on our way to find some trees we woke fairly early. Mick got up to put the kettle on. I could hear him open up the back doors. ‘Uh, the water’s gone!’ I got up and sure enough we were on quite a list, both side to side and front to back.
All stuck on the bottom
As we’d gone to bed last night we’d heard gurgling, but hadn’t put two and two together. Our bow rope was really rather tight, we wouldn’t be going anywhere as we were sat on the bottom, but I headed out in my pyjamas to loosen it off, reducing the strain it was under.
We were on the bottom, so were the floating pontoons
The two boats that had followed us down the locks yesterday (The Strawberry Island boats) were getting ready to push off, topping up on water. They had been to check the paddles at River Lock and had noticed a pump, that wasn’t back pumping from the river. They had found a security guard who had the ability to turn the pump on and they were now waiting for levels to resume, getting us all off the bottom.
Mick headed off to pick up some bits of shopping before we had breakfast, hoping there would be some improvement on his return. But despite some gurgling around Oleanna’s hull the level hadn’t risen sufficiently to get us off the bottom.
The Strawberry Island crew were wanting to be off. One of them had been up to Office Lock and lifted a paddle, letting quite a lot of water down. The level improved, but not enough for us to be floating again. They had been warned yesterday not to tie to the walls as the levels can drop. They had followed this advice and breasted up on one of the pontoons, one boat in bow first the other stern first.
Off they go
The boat alongside the pontoon seemed to be floating, the boats were untied and one could be reversed, the other still hard aground. They tried all sorts to get moving, a rope pulling them that way, a rope the other way, a rope to the other boat which only moved the free boat towards the one stuck hard. I’m not sure, but I suspect more water was let down and eventually both boats were floating again, off they went down the lock.
ON the bottom
We were still sat at an angle. Mick tried to push us off, but no luck. The pump was still back pumping from the river, so hopefully that would improve things. The level dropped with the use of the lock. Then it appeared that the pump was only keeping up with the amount of water draining out of the pound, so we would remain on the bottom until more water could be sent down. We called C&RT.
Still pumping
Mick got through to customer services and then ‘any other enquiries’. The chap on the other end of the phone did his best to help. Leeds Liverpool Canal, between Locks 1 and 2, River and Office Lock. ‘So that’s in Liverpool’ ‘No,Liverpool is 127.25 miles away’. In the end the chap knew where we were lacking water and said someone would call back. They did a short while later and said a team were already sending water down.
Vans but no one in blue
So all we could do was wait. A walk around the basin and up to Office Lock where two C&RT vans were parked but no signs of anyone, water certainly wasn’t being run through the lock. The pump pumped away, it’s large thick pipes decorated with spray paint so that they didn’t become a trip hazard.
I kept myself busy too. More calculations were required for ascending the big curved wall. I took my time as I wanted to get it right first time as there was a camera crew filming Toms descending. They were coming down backwards (very wise) but with the assistance of ropes, I suppose it’s because Toms don’t have claws to help cling on.
On the bridge by Office Lock
A load of washing was just about to be hung out when all of a sudden a wave of water came across the basin, Oleanna lifted from her resting place just a touch. We and the Barley crew immediately jumped into action, no thinking about it this time. We quickly rolled back the covers, washing hung up inside to dry. I was able to give Oleanna a push and Mick reversed off following Barley to turn to face the lock.
Backing out
River Lock needed topping up a touch, this was done once both boats were out from the pontoons, in case the level dropped again. The surge of water had been provided by NB Tobias coming down the lock, they were now moored up on a wall in front of the Hilton, possibly the quietest spot at the Wharf.
Escaping
With the gates open Barley and Oleanna headed into the safety of the lock, the bottom paddles lifted, we had escaped! Phew!!
Oleanna now having completed the Leeds and Liverpool Canal was on the Aire and Calder Navigation. We led the way, there only being one set of steps to reach your boat we had to take it in turns, so Jenny closed up behind us.
The width and depth of the river were such a relief, no grounding here. You could tell Oleanna was enjoying blowing the cobwebs away travelling down the river at speed. Past the old warehouses, new tower blocks, bridges old and new.
Entering Leeds Lock
At Leeds Lock I hopped off and opened the gates using the key of power. This was to be our last shared lock with NB Barley and the last short lock until we reach Linton Lock on the River Ouse. Both boats were mindful of the overhanging walkway on the bottom gates and kept their distance. I closed the gates, dropped the paddles and the hopped onto Oleanna, Jenny taking charge at the other end of the lock.
A wave goodbye to NB Barley as we exited, they planned to stay another day on the river in Leeds, guaranteed to still be afloat in the morning. We headed off downstream aiming to find some trees for Tilly.
Good Labes?
Blimey it was hot out there, a breeze making it bearable. A graffiti artist was at work underneath Richmond Bridge. The first colour gold had gone on for his large tag, covering over previous small tags. I couldn’t quite make out if the two in gold before the one he was working on were also by him, being in gold they were hard to read.
I like
Left onto the widened section of the river, passing people picnicking on the flood lock island. Cormorants sat on warehouse roofs and dipped into the water, diving to make up for their lack of buoyancy when on the surface.
Knostrop Lock
At Knostrop Fall Lock, the first of the big ones, there was a boat just closing the gates to come up, a single hander who managed to get to the top control panel before I did. He was just heading to the off side to moor so we arranged for me to leave his key on top of the panel to collect later. Down we went, the key of power and my index finger doing their job.
Thwaite Mills
Now on the long pound to Fishpond Lock, passing Thwaite Mills. The visitor mooring at the museum looks like it has new lighting. Plenty of space on their long term moorings, but these may be due to boats being out for the summer.
Silvery reflective water
A high pitched chirp, followed by another. Two Kingfishers were showing us the way, darting ahead of us, keeping their distance. Too far for a photo, but close enough to amaze. One dipped into the water, but came up without a catch. They stayed with us for quite a distance, then one could be seen looping back round behind us along the towpath. This year we’ve seen so few Kingfishers, maybe they’ve all been self isolating.
Swimmers
A group of lads were jumping into the river by Concrete Bridge, the older lads stood on the bridge smoking, looking cool! The swimmers moved out of the way for us to pass. Another group swam with the aid of a life ring, we wondered where they’d got it from as they pulled one another out of the water with the attached rope. Surely they’d put it back when they finished with it!?
BIg locks now
Fishpond Lock was in use, Hotel Boat Lady Teal heading back up to Leeds for a couple of days off before their next guests arrive. I chatted to the lady, who said their capacity had been affected by social distancing. Most trips had sorted themselves out, people who’d been shielding not wanting to risk a holiday yet, but there were some trips where they’d had to make difficult choices in deciding which group to turn away. We talked about the low water at Granary Wharf, she was of the opinion that someone wouldn’t have closed a paddle correctly and with the trip boat not currently running from the wharf the lock wouldn’t have been checked last night.
Strawberry Island boats
As gaps in the moorings showed themselves above Woodlesford Lock we decided stopping for the day, a mile or so and one lock before we’d planned. Back at River Lock we’d found a windlass on the bottom lock gate and had wondered if it belonged to one of the Strawberry Island boats. Here they were settled for the day, we slowed down as we passed, but neither of them recognised it. Oh well we’ve another now to add to our collection.
Bye then !
We pulled in just where the Aire bends round very close to the cut. Tilly went straight out and vanished very quickly into the friendly cover. Washing was hung in the pram cover with it’s sides still open. Curtains on the starboard side got closed as even though we were under trees we wouldn’t benefit from any shade until much later in the day.
Who are you?
It got hotter and hotter. We had a visit from an old black cat. He was very friendly and wanted to come and check out our boat, we thought that unwise so shooed it away. Thankfully we didn’t hear a cat fight anywhere and Tilly didn’t seem to notice that someone else had been using her cat walk!
A stunner
Another load of washing was done making use of the free electricity being generated. Then Mick noticed an empty hanger under the pram cover. What had been on this hanger? A pair of pyjama bottoms of mine. But just where were they? The empty hanger was on the canal side, so only one thing could have happened, they’d fallen into the cut. We’d like to apologise now to the person who picks up some red tartan pyjama bottoms around their prop at some future date. I won’t be wanting them back, so if you can make use of them please do, they were clean and nearly dry when they got blown in.
4 locks, 6.04 miles, 0 swing bridges, 4 boats on the bottom, 2 escapees, 2 patient boats, 2 bacon butties, 1 ascent planned very carefully, 4 boaters on super fast speed to untie, 0 room at the armouries, 2 kingfishers, 4 evil birds, 9 swimmers, 1 hotel boat, 2 cats sharing the cat walk, 31 ish degrees, -1 pair of bottoms.
Leaving our very close neighbour for the swing bridge
The voice of Houdini woke us up along with plenty of people already out and about on the towpath at 6. By the time we’d had breakfast and were rolling back the covers two other boats were pulling away from the moorings.
Well that meant there were three of us heading towards Leeds, one swing bridge each and we could leapfrog all the way. Moss Bridge Swing Bridge behaved, it was still a cool morning. Back in 2014 it was stuck hard, no chance of pushing it without the aid of a tractor, which all took some sorting as the bridge is owned by Yorkshire Water and not C&RT.
Last one through
Our bridge was the last one, Ross Mill. I’d just got momentum going when a chap wearing blue came towards me. I quickly stopped the bridge and pushed it back closed to let him across, he was to be our lock keeper at Newlay 3 Rise. One boat was already at the top of the locks and then the three of us heading from Rodley. I had to wait a while to close the bridge, weed causing problems for most of us and numerous trips would be made down weed hatches today.
The last to arrive at the locks we were waved straight in by the Lockie. The other two boats were travelling together and we could team up with NB Barley, as they had been at the locks overnight they were to go first.
Jumping the queue
With two Lockies on hand the staircase of three was descended quite quickly. One of the boys in Blue knows NB Ellis so we had chats about Stanley Ferry and fridge freezers whilst we waited for the chambers to empty from one to the other.
Jenny from NB Barley and I walked on to Forge 3 Rise where another Lockie was expecting us. He was pulling huge amounts of weed out from above the lock and the chambers. Chatting with him it seems that things along this stretch are improving. The large groups who used to come to drink and swim at the locks do so less often, the increased footfall due to new housing developments and a new station seem to be putting them off.
The level below the staircase was really quite low, but whilst boats were coming down the staircase above they wouldn’t let water down. A glance before we emptied the bottom chamber at the levels suggested we might just make it the half mile to Kirkstall Lock, bumping our way along the bottom, so we gave it a try.
Looking down Forge 3 Rise
The Lockie now headed down on his bike to see why the level had dropped overnight. Someone had closed the gates with debris between them, so the water had just been flowing straight through the lock overnight. He cleared things and then returned. By now the bywash was running but more water was needed so he ran water down the flight too.
In the end it took us just over an hour to cross the half mile pound to reach Kirkstall Lock, the weed still a good few feet away from the bank. Once in the lock weed hatches needed to be cleared. Andy pulled out reams of weed whilst Mick pulled out t-shirts and a pair of pants.
New clothes!
We led the way through the next long pound. Under the arched footbridge that straddles between refurbished mills. Past Leeds Industrial Museum, maybe one day we’ll pay it a visit, but not today.
At Spring Garden Lock we waited for Barley to catch us up, their prop attracting so much more weed than ours. Here the bridge across the bottom gates is rotting through nicely, so no access across it. With one gate open, Mick nestled Oleanna behind the closed gate to wait.
Oddley 2 Rise needed setting the last boat through having come up. I emptied the bottom chamber whilst Jenny topped up the top one. Then with the boats in the top lock we lifted paddles. On the other staircase locks along this stretch there have been spillways to channel off excess water, the chambers not having been built to the same depth as each other. But here excess water seems to drain over the top of the bottom gates as well as flooding the surrounding area.
Below the raft boat was moored up on the offside. In the last four years it has continued it’s journey towards Leeds and I’m sure it has been extended by at least a third since we first saw it up near Skipton. An interesting construction built with all sorts people don’t want anymore.
Extension after extension
Once down St Ann Ings Lock we had only one more to descend to reach Granary Wharf, Office Lock.
I walked down, disturbing a chap who covered the spliff he was making when he saw my camera. I was far more interested in a bit of graffiti than his next smoke though.
Leeds
Right up against the canal new building work is taking place. This means that the water point just above the lock is inaccessible as it’s on the wrong side of the fencing. The offside gates have been left just enough room to work them and the foundations of the new building seem to stretch right up to the lock.
Jenny walked round to check on moorings and there was plenty of space for us to swing round onto one of the pontoons. We’d thought about continuing to find some trees for tomorrow, but by now we’d had enough. So a quiet afternoon and evening instead.
Office Lock
Tilly however had other plans. Yesterday I’d taken the opportunity to give her a spot on for fleas, not that I have any! This means no collar for a couple of days, therefore no shore leave. I knew she wouldn’t like it at Granary Wharf so this wouldn’t matter. Normally in places like this and BUMingham I let her out for her to make her own mind up, which usually happens quickly. But today without a collar this was not on the cards. Instead I sat out in the closed pram cover whilst she checked out the surroundings. This outside looked alright, a patch of grass, some tiny trees and a big curved wall that I started to make calculations to climb.Tilly tried any available gap in the cover with her nose and when one looked like she might just be about to squeeze out she was pulled back inside and the back doors closed. She is SO mean!!!
Turning into the pontoons
Yesterday I’d made a quinoa crust for a quiche and today filled it with the left over chicken from a roast, courgettes, bacon and onion. I did a trial custard using eggs and soya cream, this set thank goodness and was quite tasty, much better than previous attempts without proper cream.
Jenny and Andy
12 locks, 3 of which staircases, 3 swing bridges, 7am push off, 4 boats going down, 1 very low pound, 1 sulking cat, 2 t-shirts, 1 pair of pants, 1 hour waiting for water, 1 water point out of bounds, 1 pair molegrips, 1 full water tank, 1 load washing, 1 tasty quiche, 1 noisy mooring for the night.
Shortly after we’d finished our breakfast NB Billy cruised past, Clare saying good morning with a wave. Would we manage to catch them up before Blackburn locks so that we could share? Would the locks be long enough for us to share? By the time we’d got our selves ready we were most probably half an hour behind them.
Chimney pots too
Four and a half damp miles to the locks. Plenty of gardens backing onto the canal have made the effort. A K6 phone box sat in one garden along with a post box and stamp machine.
Then neighbours obviously have different opinions on ducks!
Racing to the locks
A young lad sat on his bike waiting for our arrival, as we came up alongside him he said ‘I’ll race you to the locks!’. Well we had no chance he’d have easily beaten us there if he’d tried. Instead he coasted along with the occasional pedal, at one point he hopped off saying that walking would be fairer, all the time all of us were getting damper.
Divers, at least they were getting wetter than us!
Through Hollin Bridge we could see the stern of NB Billy mid channel, were they stuck? Then a Police officer walked towards us in high vis, they had divers in the canal below the locks, but we were clear to go up. Pete had walked up ahead and was emptying the bottom chamber. A quick check with Clare that we could share and we were on our way.
Pete and Billy’s bow
With a slightly over long boat you have to get yourself in past the bottom gates, so Billy headed in first and then Clare pushed the stern across the lock and reversed back behind the gate. Mick could then bring Oleanna in alongside slowly, Clare pushing the boats apart. Second gate closed and a thumbs up the lock could be filled.
Locks 56 and 55 are very close together the pound between them dropping quite a lot as we filled the bottom lock. Coming down hill here last time we so nearly flooded the C&RT offices as we hadn’t double checked the paddles were down at the top of the lock, so water flowed through the lock and into the pound, the lower lock already full. But today we just needed to empty the top lock to make sure we had enough water to get over the cill.
Four lads came along interested in what was going on. Pete offered them windlasses and ended up hardly having to do any work at the next couple of locks as the lads were keen.
A pause was needed to empty a cassette and the we were back on our way again, heading up the rest of the locks. The pounds were a touch low, only the occasional bump and scrape on the bottom as the boats passed through.
What’s inside the box?
An interesting box attached to a wall on the offside caught my eye. It resembled a new water point, but on closer inspection Mick could see a solar panel and a mobile phone aerial on the lid. Anyone have any ideas what this might be please?
Once up the last lock, the drizzle that had kept us damp dried up. We were heading straight on, but Clare and Pete planned to stop for some shopping. Phone numbers were exchanged a possible plan of sharing the Barrowford Locks in a couple of days.
We caught a fish!
Mick pulled us out of the lock, I hopped on after closing the gate. He knew we’d picked something up on the prop but was hoping it wouldn’t inhibit our progress too much. Well we only just managed to limp to the side where I held the centre line whilst he cleared the prop of plastic and a fishing fish with a big hook on it!
Slow going
We now followed NB Billy, the going slow. Plenty of weed and the bottom being too close to the top for any speed to be had.
The wallpapered K6 outside Graham and Brown is still there and under Sour Milk Hall Bridge the large flock pattern brightened up the day, well until it was Billy’s turn to have problems with their prop, they were stuck. No help was needed just patience to get themselves back on the move again, so we took the lead and headed off.
Houses on hills
We’d already decided where to moor for the day quite a few more miles on. Luckily the drizzle stayed away and we had lunch on the go. Progress was slow due to weed, but that gradually petered out and apart from the odd lumpy bit the depth improved too.
Granada
Now on the long pound to Barrowford Locks the canal winds it’s way along a contour for 23 miles. Views every now and again. Granada studios and Blackburn in the background, all the houses roofs blending into one long slope down the hills.
Over the M65 aqueduct the motorway making far more noise than it should for the amount of traffic on it.
Spot the odd one out
Gaggles of geese lined up ahead of us. I wonder if the white goose felt out of place or not?
Beehive ovens
Another sight we maybe wouldn’t have seen coming the other way was the beehive coke ovens near Oswaldtwistle. Lumps covered in turf have collapsed in parts showing the brickwork inside. Here the remains of Aspen Colliery lie buried, 24 coke ovens (known locally as Fairy caves) and what once was a canal basin where coal and coke used to be transported from. More info found here. If we had more time we’d explore here more, another for the next time list.
Your best adventure is you
Just after Simpson’s Bridge 111A a large cream wall has a rather good painting on it. Two creatures sit on a pennyfathing, long sticks tied to their feet to reach the pedals. One looks out with a bent spy glass and behind them they trail clouds, letters and paper aeroplanes float in their wake. I’ve tried looking this up on the internet, but nothing is there. I suspect it may have been commissioned by a recruitment agency in the building, but I have no idea who the artist is.
Church Kirk Changeline Bridge has been modified since horses pulled boats, it’s not a patch on the snake bridges of the Macc.
Half way
Just beyond is a mile marker, the halfway point between Leeds and Liverpool. Around it fretwork panels celebrate it’s position. Oleanna can now tick off half the L&L canal, Liverpool to Wigan in 2017, Wigan to half way now, over the next few weeks she’ll cruise the other half along with two of the wonders of the waterways.
Locking mechanism
We now had to deal with the first of the swing bridges, Church, Rileys and Foster. These have anti vandal locks on them, you then use your windlass to raise a bar to unlock them. Lining everything back up to re-lock them is a bit of a pain.
Going through
I was just about to cross Church Bridge when a pickup drove along and stopped half way across. Puzzled for a few moments whilst a chap closed a barrier behind, locking up the access to a work site, he then pulled away end of the working week.
Rileys lots of grit on the ledge
Rileys proved to be slightly problematical. Blimey it was stiff! I shoved and pushed and pulled, bounced it eventually getting it to move. I think the base that the closed bridge sits on needed clearing. If I’d had a bucket of water and a stiff brush I’d have given it a clear out.
Zooming through the weed
Then Foster’s didn’t want to line back up properly to be locked, requiring a kick.
Not a bad view
Our mooring now lay in front of us just after the not so picturesque pipe bridge. One boat was already taking advantage of the view, but there was plenty more space for us. If only it was a touch warmer we’d have had a barbeque and sat out to drink up the view. Instead Tilly managed to do a touch of self catering during her meagre hour and a half shore leave. A long day for all, maybe we’ll have a day off tomorrow.
No trees but a good vantage point
6 locks, 15.23 miles, 3 swing bridges, 1 boat held up, 1 locking partner, 2 divers, 1 race, 4 helpers, 1 coconut, 2nd day of lunch on the go, 2 K6’s, 1st August? 1 view, 1 crunchy friend.
The aim was to push off at 7:30, but we finally made it just before 8am, managing to avoid the majority of the rain. Our stop off here had been very useful and the people around the basin were very friendly, another place to add to our list of handy moorings.
Droylsden Marina
As we reversed out of our space, Mick remembered one thing he hadn’t done yesterday, he’d forgotten to clear the prop, there was something down there but luckily not too much to inhibit steering Oleanna. So once we were out on the towpath at the top of the locks I went ahead to set the lock and Mick undid the weedhatch, a small collection of stuff was retrieved.
Fairfield Top Lock
I’ve been down these locks once and on that occasion we had the assistance of Anne, Mick’s sister. Having two crew made a big difference, no need to walk back to a lock after setting one below. Mick has also single handed the flight six years ago, texting me after every lock was successfully descended. On this occasion he met several boats coming up hill and also let one go past him. Back then the Cheshire Ring was in full swing, now it’s possibly just waking up from a long slumber!
Memorial
The top lock is covered in a memorial to a young chap who had tried to jump the lock, hoping to impress some young ladies. Sadly he hadn’t make it, hitting his head and ending up in the water face down. The lock beam is covered in messages to him, someone has even covered it in sticky backed plastic to help preserve it.
As we worked our way down the flight Mick made notes of what wasn’t working at each lock. A note taken at each lock to start with, but thankfully things improved as we worked our way downhill into Manchester.
Rainbow Monty
Snorkelling Monty
Monty’s sat by the canal. A rainbow Monty, is he celebrating Pride or the NHS? I suspect Pride. The other chap was actually about to dive in with a snorkel on his head (not visible in the picture) even though it looks like he’s about to do something else!
There is a canal isn’t there?
We ducked under trailing willows yet again. The first swing bridge now held by a C&RT padlock not just a handcuff key. Then on a touch further to where the second swing bridge should be.
What’s that?
On our Waterway Routes map it suggested that normally the bridge is left open, but something was definitely across the cut, but not a swing bridge. A zoom in on the camera showed that the footbridge just beyond it was having work done to it, so maybe this was a temporary bridge?
I hopped off, this was a scaff type bridge, nothing I was willing to move myself. I went in hunt of a banksman and found a chap sat in a welfare pod, just about to tuck into some food. I explained our problem, so he came out to see what he could do. The only words he said, ‘You only need it moving a little bit?’ Well sorry no, it needs to move right out of the way for us to get through.
Slide and swung
I could see the cogs going in his head as he tried to work out how to move the bridge. He slid it towards himself, the scaff hand rail not fixed in position, which didn’t help trying to pull it across the gap. Once it was off the far bank it sat at an alarming angle, just ready to fall into the canal and become more of a problem.
Left until
After he pulled and tugged, I helped swing it out of our way, one thing the chap hadn’t thought of, to me it was obvious. We were soon through and the chap could get back to his food. The bridge stayed well and truly on the bank.
Today’s catch
A while further on a football shirt required removing from our prop, so Oleanna sat in a lock whilst Mick cleared the prop with our prop mate, a very handy tool.
Opposite the Strawberry Duck
At Lock 13 The Strawberry Duck pub looked all boarded up, but out the back in their beer garden things looked very inviting. We refrained as it was only 9:50!
Football straight ahead
Locks lined up with the Etihad Stadium and as we worked our way down towards all the sports venues I could hear the rumbling of a Fountains team following us down the flight.
Fountains behind
All the winding of the hydraulic paddle gear was starting to take it’s tole, my arms ached.
Wind wind wind
These are meant to make it easier to lift the paddles, but the repetition of winding them round and round gets to your arms after a while, at least my arms should be slightly more toned when we reach Manchester.
Hope it has a cycle path on that bridge
Circular flats
The National Cycling Centre, the Velopark sprawl out on both sides of the canal, followed by circular blocks of flats.
A slot to get down from the lock
Beswick Top Lock has an interesting bridge configuration. There is a road bridge and canal bridge, but between the two is a curving metal bridge that carries the towpath from one side to the other, not a snake bridge as the tow rope from a boat would have to be disconnected from the horse.
Test centre
Across some waste land we could see the white structures, tents of a covid testing centre, more and more people on the towpath were now wearing masks. We carried on with the job in hand, locks, more of them.
How pretty
In one of the bridge holes Oleanna managed to pick me some buddleia, the off side very overgrown in places.
Mills
Between Beswick Bottom Lock 4 and Ancoats Top Lock 3, I caught a ride, this being the longest pound on the flight.
New Islington flats showing their age now
We now passed old warehouses and factories, and very soon we were surrounded by new tower blocks, more being built in every direction.
History standing its ground
Sitting between the last two locks is a rather lovely looking lock cottage, this sits with it’s new lawn tucked behind the wooden fence, one tree and tower blocks looking down on it’s history.
The last lock of the day
At Ancoats Bottom Lock Mick pointed out that this was likely to be our last narrow lock this year. Our travels will see us staying in the north for sometime. The Ashton Canal is the northern most narrow canal, so from now on we will now be in the land of wide locks.
Well used PPE
Working through the lock I was reminded of when we came this way on Bergen Fjord in 2008 with Anne. As we’d just started to empty the lock Mick’s friend Mark was just crossing the road bridge in a car coming to meet us to help with the Rochdale 9 through the heart of Manchester. Back up crew were needed on that occasion, today we’d be stopping short of the 9. Five hours top to bottom, all but three needing to be filled, thankfully without much rain.
Goodbye narrow canals
A glance back as we passed under the road bridge, the bottom of the lock showing the worn steps down from the bottom gates and the water rushed round the bywash on the offside. I wonder what the area looked like when the lock was first built.
What did it used to look like here
A short distance on and we reached todays destination, Telford Basin. A small basin that we used last year, on that occasion we tucked three boats in amongst the flats. Access to the basin is through a keycoded gate, today we weren’t bothered about this, a late lunch and a rest were more on the cards than an explore.
A Downing Street briefing was held today, announcing the next stage of lockdown easing. Gyms and Leisure centres will be able to reopen in a couple of weeks and from this Saturday night outdoor performances will be allowed. This means that the season of outdoor concerts and operas that Glyndebourne have planned will be able to go ahead, just as well as the £100 tickets have already sold out! I suspect other theatre companies will be giving the idea some thought. Organising such events and selling tickets are likely to take that bit more time than just two days. It’s a start, as is the funding but neither mean the sector is safe. But then no sector is safe.
18 locks, 3.64 miles, 1 right, 1 swing, 1 slide, 3 weed hatch visits, 1 diver, 1 last narrow lock, 1 tight turn, 2 pooped boaters, 1 stove lit, 27 items of washing dry, 1 empty wee tank, 0 code required, 2 days to mount a show.
Alarm, an early alarm! After a patchy night of sleep, I think I managed about four hours, we were up and having breakfast, no chance of extra views from our mooring this morning!
Goodbye to the Peak Forest views
Breakfast eaten, we were pushing off at 7:30ish. The top lock at Marple was to open at 8 am and we hoped to be able to get down the locks without too much of a soaking from the forecast rain. Time to wave the views goodbye and go and join the queue.
Is that the queue?
As Marple Junction came into view there was a boat on the lock landing and all other spaces were full, however there was only one boat facing the locks, the one on the landing. We trod water and a volunteer shouted to ask which way we were heading, we pointed towards the locks. Second in line, marvellous.
Bridge 1
From today the Marple flight is open three days a week, Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, first boat in at 8am, last boat 12pm, flight locked at 3pm, this is to help conserve water levels on the summit pound for the next couple of months.
Just look at that!
We waited and then pulled onto the lock landing as NB Freedom moved on into the lock. Time to have a look at Bridge 1 of the Macc. It is so pleasing to the eye, most probably my favourite bridge on the network.
It was our turn at 8:30 and as Mick closed the top gate I walked down to reset the lock below. NB Freedom had a couple of crew so I hoped we’d not catch them up. Before they left the bottom gates I did call to them to check the paddles were down as I could see one was a few inches up. All sorted and we could start working our way down the fight.
Maybe new signs are needed
Ready to go down
Two people looked out from their top floor, watching boats on the flight again. Others smiled to see the locks in operation again.
Hello!
By the time we reached the third or fourth lock we’d picked up one volunteer who was going ahead to set the lock in front for us.
Just a few leaks
It also started to rain, which necessitated adjusting layers and adding waterproofs. Another two volunteers arrived and walked down the flight with the full time lock keeper, it’s their first day back on duty on the flight.
Past the back of my 2016 hairdressers
All very chatty, we ended up with two volunteers the first chap now going ahead and setting locks in front of Freedom.
8 miles to the junction
The Lockie imparted updated knowledge to the volunteers as we headed down the flight. One pound is likely to be full on a morning, but two of the locks bottom gates leak like sieves, so best to open and close the gate as quickly as you can to conserve the water level in the pound above.
New wall
The rebuilt lock
At Lock 11 you can see where the wall along the side of the towpath has been rebuilt. This lock had serious problems and ended up having to be rebuilt as it got too skinny even for modern slimline boats! The rebuild took sometime and meant the flight was out of action for what felt like an eternity, the wall alongside was demolished to ease access to the site. New stones were quarried at Bollington to replace damaged stones. All looks fine now and you’d hardly be able to tell.
Raining now
Down eight locks and we were into a good rhythm. Three crew with each boat.
A fine building
But now we stopped. NB Freedom was tucked in nicely on the offside just before the next lock, no point in joining them in the pound and letting all the water run round the bywash so we sat in the lock above and waited.
A roller on the wall for the tow rope
Was he stuck or had we started to meet boats coming up? It turned out to be the former. Eventually he managed to get off the bank and reversed quite a long way back across the big pound. The depth a bit of a problem so it seemed.
Reversing to try again
Lack of boat movements most probably had caused a build up of silt. He revved his engine churning up black from the bottom, a few branches also appeared from the dark depths for good measure. In the end he got into the lock and continued downhill, I waited for the thumbs up from the volunteer before emptying our lock.
Waiting to go down
A short distance on and we met an uphill boat, a single hander who’d now got the help of the first volunteer.
Swapping
Help could now be divided between boats, so I thanked the lady volunteer as she would now help going up hill.
Boaters PPE ready to pull the gate
Myself and the volunteer now leapfrogged locks, one going ahead to set the next lock and work it.
Heading to the last lock
We almost caught the chaps ahead of us up, except we ran out of locks.
The bottom gates over the handy footbridge
I got back on board and descended in the lock too so as to make an easier get away.
Last lock
Thank yous again as we waved goodbye to the volunteer. 2 hours top to bottom, 13 or so with light rain, not a bad mornings work, glad my breakfast refuelling kicked in and kept me going.
NB Freedom had stopped to pick up crew so we caught them up very quickly on the approach to Marple Aqueduct.
Catching them up
This is our first time across the aqueduct since the off side railings have been added. This caused a huge hooha in boating circles. But I have to say I quite like them.
Marple Viaduct and view of the Goyt Valley
They are not trying to look old but are obviously modern, they do the job of stopping people from falling yet you can see through them. I don’t think they distract from the view of the viaduct.
Pulling over
It was very slow going following the chaps in front. Tick over at most, it was damp, getting damper all the time and we still had quite a distance to cover today. In the end they got stuck shortly before Hyde Bank Tunnel, almost right across the cut. The more they revved the engine the more it looked like they had something round their prop. Gradually they managed to get to the side and waved us past. We said it looked like they had something round their prop, but they were certain they had just got stuck on the bottom and got in a flap, they’d be fine.
On the move again
Tunnel light on and through the shallow tunnel, the going slow. Glances over our shoulders confirmed that the boat behind was still trying to continue without checking their prop. They made it into the tunnel, no light!
Next tunnel even shallower
Glad we were now ahead we could forge onwards, feeling like pioneers cruising the cut for the first time since it had been cut. The depth was shallow and filled with chunks of trees, branches half submerged that required coasting over, willow trees hanging almost into the water, the lack of boat traffic obvious.
Another snake bridge
A day boat came towards us, getting grounded on the towpath side. Mick suggested a touch of reverse would help them get off the bottom and warned of the boat behind us, hopefully now through the tunnel! A touch too much reverse had the day boat now stuck on the offside, oh well, it’s all an adventure.
The rain was gradually getting heavier the further north we pootled. A mid morning snack was required, cheese scone and a cuppa as we cruised along, able to go a touch faster than tick over now, but still having to avoid the forest that lay beneath the surface.
M67
A snake bridge, under the M67 all the time staying close to the Tame Valley a green corridor leading to Ashton-under-Lyne.
Lift
Dukinfield Lift Bridge took some winding up, but half as much effort as I remembered it being when we first came through on a hire boat. In the past we’ve moored up here or carried on to the junction to moor the night, but today we’d cover some more miles and not have to pick up the mountains of rubbish left around the benches!
Henry plant pot
Past Portland Basin Marina where we had our first experience of a pooh sucky machine as the portable pump gulped up our offerings into it’s tank. More smiling faces greeted us as we forged our way ahead, the canal now open, the Cheshire Ring now navigable again.
Dukinfield Junction
Left please! at Dukinfield Junction, turning to face Junction Mill Chimney which was bought for £1 and saved as a landmark when the mills were demolished in the late 1980s.
£1 not bad
We don’t remember much of this stretch. I’ve been along it once, Mick twice, both early in the morning hoping to get through the Ashton Locks early in the day. Today we had chance to look around through the constant rain. The depth now a lot deeper beneath Oleanna we could cruise at normal speed.
Hello Mr G
Along a stretch of moored boats we spotted an old neighbour of ours. NB Mr G used to be moored at Crick and when we first bought Lillian they were next door neighbours. We’d heard that she’d been sold as the people we knew had split up and their dream of cruising the network disappeared. Good to see her still looking smart and now with a cratch.
Kids ran along side us excited to see a boat, youths smoked their aromatic tobacco under bridges and the amount of plastic floating and sitting in the hedges increased. We are back in a land of many people.
Birdie
At the top of the Ashton Flight we hung a right and entered Droylsden marina. We’d pre-booked a space for a couple of nights with electric to work the washing machine hard. We slotted in between a couple of boats on a short pontoon, bow end first so Mick can do the fender when hopefully it’ll be dry tomorrow.
Once inside a tin of soup was opened and the stove lit hoping to warm us up. The washing machine could wait a little while.
Opening up the side hatch Mick exclaimed, ‘What a load of crap!’ The gunnel was covered in white splatterings. Something hadn’t agreed with one of our feathered friends last night. It would get sorted the next time we could reach that side.
Blimey!
Oleanna had obviously been a good target as when we came outside the roof was covered in it too. We both looked over head, not an obvious tree branch or cable to shit from! The roof got a scrub down with canal water, well as much as I could reach. This would do for now.
Just as we untied ready to push off a lady from the nearby offices decided that it was a good time to come and have a chat. Mick had just got rid of his rope, luckily it wasn’t too windy! But when it started to sleet she headed back inside to leave us to get on with things.
Oh s….t!
Back out on the canal we pulled in at the services at the junction to top up the water tank. The tap took a bit of finding hidden away behind fencing. But one thing wasn’t so hard to find, more sh*t on the port side. More scrubbing down as the possible offender watched from on high.
Bet it was him!
Straight on to new water again and the Walsall Canal. Not the most pleasant day for cruising as sleet wind and rain managed to come and go in between the odd bit of sunshine.
We’d been warned that the Walsall Canal is the least respected in the country with the most amount of rubbish. So we were prepared for our two hour cruise to be a long one.
Nearer Ocker Hill
Nearer Walsall
Plenty of graffiti to look at, not much artistic flair in most, just tags. We were definitely in the area of Ghost EA though. A few weeks ago I’d taken a photo of his tag on a bridge on the Tame Valley Canal, just white spray paint. Today we’d see his progression through the years to silver, then a touch of orange, followed by an array of colours and far more intricate designs the closer we got to Walsall.
Holyhead and Darlaston Road Bridges
The rubbish in the most part clung to the edges in amongst the reeds. Plastic bottles, aerosol cans, beer cans. At most bridge holes the banks were covered with unwanted items just dropped over the wall and out of view. Every now and then a fire extinguisher would bob along. Why, where had they come from? Today the fire extinguishers way outnumbered the coconuts. Most probably stolen, set off and then thrown into the cut once the fun was over.
Two more
A chap walking his dog warned us that there were trees down ahead. Not unusual at the moment after all the storms. But he said that it had been kids chopping them down, right across the canal.
Would this impeded our progress? Was the chaps version of ‘right across the canal’ the same as ours would have been, we could only find out.
Ahh trees
A few miles on through Porket’s Bridge we knew this is where he’d meant, plenty of branches in the water, but it didn’t look too bad. Under the surface however lurked numerous shopping trolleys. Mick put the engine into neutral and with the wind behind us we coasted through very slowly.
Poor trees
The branches weren’t too bad, coasting meant they didn’t entangle themselves around the prop. A little bit of engine was needed at one point to realign Oleanna to avoid the next felled tree, then we could coast again. Those poor trees. Splintered stumps standing to three four foot the rest pushed into the cut.
Pes planus
A double take as two flat feet drifted past with jewels on their fallen arches. A doll no doubt.
More coasting to be done here
Where the canal narrowed crap would have collected, one such place with a steel overhanging edge and wind. Was the overhang such that it would get the cabin sides as we coasted through? The wind certainly didn’t help! But we managed it in the end.
Here we go!
By one bridge a group of four chatted, two lads ran up onto the bridge and hung over. Here we go! Time to be sitting ducks. No chance to say hello before we might have to duck. But then they dashed back off the bridge to join their mates again. Cheery Hellos, Phew!
Cemetery gardens
As we approached Walsall Junction new buildings rose from the ground, the chimney at Majorfax reminding the area of times gone by.
Nearly there
We followed the canal round to the right, the locks can wait for another day, and headed in towards the basin.
Buildings matching the sky
A narrowing with a yellow boom across it to stop the rubbish, as we’d been told the boom just pivoted out of the way and allowed us entrance.
In we go
Two pontoons to choose from, no other boats. We pulled into the one furthest out and then battled against the wind to tie up. What should have been around a 2 hour cruise had turned into 3.5 hours. Time for a late lunch as Tilly quickly realised she preferred to explore the inside of her eye lids once more. Soon we’ll be back in the countryside Tilly, I promise.
Last Friday Mick had tweeted C&RT regarding the Figure of Three Locks on the Calder and Hebble. The stoppage notice for that stretch of canal after Storm Ciara was that the towpath was closed. Was the damage really as bad as it looked in the photos and video we’d been seeing on Facebook? This morning they tweeted back the following.
Hi Mick thanks for getting in touch. Sadly Figure of Three Locks won’t be open for your visit in summer. It was badly damaged during the recent storms and flooding. We estimate it will be 12-18 months before it reopens. Please get in touch if you have any more queries and we look forward to welcoming you in Yorkshire this summer. Naomi
@CRTYorkshireNE
Figure of Three at the moment
Later in the day a stoppage notice was sent out too. At least 12 months before the lock will reopen. We’ll have to put plan B or C into operation.
Waiting for it to stop raining took a while this morning. But we were ready for it when it stopped. Outside covers rolled up and folded down, ropes untied. ‘Hang on! There’s a boat!!!!!’ ‘What? A boat?????’ We waited for them to come past before we pushed off. That’s not happened for months.
About to wind at Hopwood
As we made our way towards Hopwood very dark storm clouds were gathering, we wondered if we’d make it into Wast Hill Tunnel in time before it started to rain again. No was the answer. A strong gust of wind coincided with us winding meaning the engine had to work hard to get the stern round, then the heavens opened. Oh well!
Wast Hill Tunnel ahead
We could tell it was half term, plenty of hire boats were about. The boat ahead of us could still be seen in the tunnel and by the time we’d got three quarters of the way through ourselves another boat was following. Was it drier in the tunnel than out in the rain was debatable!
Back out into daylight
Popping back out into day light all signs of the crime scene had gone, apart from one length of plastic Police tape attached to branches.
Despite there being a boat moored on the bollards at the water point there was enough room for us so we pulled in and topped up the tank another load of washing was just finishing. We then pulled along a touch further for some lunch before carrying on retracing our steps back into Birmingham.
Straight on please
The aroma passing Cadburys today was more caramel than chocolate, or was it salted caramel, or fudge? We decided that it must be fudge and both started to sing the song from the advert. Link. ‘It’s full of Cadbury’s goodness’! No way would you be able to suggest fudge is good for you in adverts today.
What a jingle though, we both remembered it, well Mick forgot the bit about ‘it’s very small and neat’. It was written by Mike d’Abo based on the folk song The Lincolnshire Poacher. Mike d’Abo was more famous for being the lead singer of Manfred Mann and ‘The Mighty Quinn’.
Chimneys
I also found out that Fingers of Fudge are no longer produced in England, production moved from Keysham to Poland in 2010. So what was it we could smell today?
Talk turned to our cruising plans.
Plan A. Go over the Pennines via the Huddersfield Narrow through Standedge Tunnel for me to work at the Lawrence Batley Theatre. Then cruise the Huddersfield Broad, Calder Hebble, Aire and Calder then the tidal Ouse to get to York. This is now out of the window.
Cat or a devil?
Plan B. Cruise over the Huddersfield Narrow so that I can go to work with ease, but then have to retrace our cruise and not head to York to meet friends and family with one days work at York Theatre Royal. Maybe.
Plan C. Cross the Pennines via the Leeds Liverpool Canal then Aire Calder and Ouse to York. This would mean having to commute to work on and off, then find somewhere handy to do this from for production week, or paying to stay in Huddersfield when needed, my expenses come out of my fee or the production budget. But then we’d be able to carry on to York, so long as the Ouse behaves itself! This is looking the most favourable plan.
Back in the city
Back in BUMingham we turned back towards Sheepcote Street Bridge. Loads more boats moored here today, but still three familiar ones from yesterday. We pulled in.
If looks could kill! Tilly was so not impressed.
WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
0 locks, 8.99 miles, 1 wind, 1 straight, 1 left, 2 tunnels, 2 mysterons, 1 damp soggy cruise, 1 load washing, 1 full water tank, 1 very disappointed cat.
