Author Archives: pipandmick

Trucking Family. 24th May

Ely

This morning we had a visit from a friend of Heathers, Sallyann. We got to meet Monty her newly acquired dog. Unfortunately we didn’t have much time to chat as we had trains to catch, hopefully our paths will cross again in the next few weeks.

The magic food bowl came out from storage, the ice block popped in along with a portion of beef gravy cat food, we were likely to be eating beef tonight so it only seemed fair. Tilly was then left in charge of Oleanna as we walked to the station.

Mick had worked hard a few weeks ago in securing cheap train tickets for us, then I’d hunted out a cheap hotel room for a nights stay in the centre of Hull. We’d been invited to the Guest Night of Teechers Leavers 22 at Hull Truck. John Godber has updated the show which he originally wrote 35 years ago and it was to be part of Hull Trucks 50th anniversary productions. I’ve designed the show twice for the company some years ago.

Our journey north worked out fine, retracing our route across the Middle Level and passing through Goole where we’d been 2 months ago.

It took sometime to find a member of staff to check us in at the hotel, but I think the lady upgraded us, putting us in a room at the top of the hotel which was vast! An old hotel that has had a make over with some fairly awful furniture, but all we were after was a bed or the night, so it was fine.

We spruced ourselves up and crossed over to HOH which used to be Hammonds department store. Here we were to meet up with Bridget and Storm, we went in to see what the deal was with food and drink. As we ordered ourselves burgers and drinks we started spotting some very familiar faces, actors who’d worked at Hull Truck through the years.

Bridget outside the building we both used to work in

Over at Hull Truck we arrived to join the masses for guest night. Several comments were heard that they’d not seen the place so full for the last ten years, which is when John stepped away from the company. On the guest list were many Truckers from John Godber’s time as Artistic Director. A speech welcoming us was made by Mark Babych the current Artistic Director. As our attention was drawn over to the entrance towards the studio space we all spotted a change of signage. The Studio space had been renamed the Godber Studio a wonderful tribute to the man who managed to rescue the theatre company from the brink of bankruptcy by writing plays that the Hull audiences loved, the first one being Up ‘n Under.

More and more faces joined the crowded front of house, so many people to say hello to and share the evening with. Our normal careful mask wearing and keeping distances thrown out of the window this evening. Here’s hoping we didn’t pick anything up to take away with us!

The show had been updated with references to the pandemic, tiktok, party gate etc. Plenty of the old show also remained, it’s quite remarkable how much of the script comes back to me, although I’m sure several people in the audience knew it way better than me.

Nikki, TP, Sarah, Sian, Mick and me, just a few members of my Hull Truck family

There was plenty of time to chat to old friends, my Hull Truck family, after the show when eventually the bar was reopened. Another drink would have been nice, but sadly everyone’s hotel bars had closed at 11, we retired back to our cheapo upgraded room. I had had a couple of people making comments about our hotel during the evening and how you could get a room by the hour! I have to say it seemed to be okay and the only mirrors on the ceiling were in reception!

We slept relatively well, although the curtains could have done with being a touch bigger to keep the light out and traffic below on Anlaby Road did start up quite early. The hunt for breakfast that I could eat without taking out a bank loan eventually found us in Subway which did the job before we climbed on trains to make our way back southwards.

As our train slowed approaching Ely station we could see that Oleanna was still moored where we’d left her, Tilly had done a good job. Our 48 hours on the Ely moorings was up, it was time to move on.

0 locks, 0 miles, 3 trains there, 3 trains back, £45 hotel room, 1 acre on the third floor, 1 bath with bubbles, 4 burgers, 1 wonderful evening catching up, 2 many people to talk to, 35 years brought up to date, 1 newly named studio, 1 olive branch, 11pm closing time, 0 hotel wine, 50th anniversary celebrated.

All About Grebes. 23rd May

Ten Mile Bank GOBA Mooring to Lavender Green, Ely

Across the way all of a sudden there was a big gushing sloshing noise. What the….? It was as if the hull of a submarine had been breached and water was rushing in through corridors and we should be preparing to close the air tight doors. We were actually across the way from a pumping station, water being pumped up from the lower fields. The sound of it when it starts up and the gushing explosive nature of it quite alarming until you know what it is.

Mick spotted a Grebe with a fish in it’s mouth, almost as thick as the Grebe’s neck. This catch was going to take quite a lot of swallowing! Gradually the fins were coaxed past its beak and then with several large gulps the fish was squeezed into it’s throat. Several gulps of water were needed to help it down the hatch, the Grebe’s neck now twice as thick as it was before. That would keep him going for a while today!

When Tilly came in we closed the doors and made ready to push off, coats were required with the chilly breeze. The river wiggles a bit as it approaches Brandon Creek, we’d not be turning down there today, maybe in a couple of days. The banks were high, only the occasional roof tops visible and pylons. These pylons were the end of the long long straight stretch of power lines we’d seen the other day. Once over the river north of Littleport they change direction at last.

The first mooring in Littleport was fenced off, some remedial works have happened here and grass seed is waiting to take hold. Then a choice of two more moorings along with one outside the Swan on the River. We made note, but continued onwards. We were looking for a reasonably safe mooring, close to a station to leave Oleanna for a night. These would do, but was there somewhere better in Ely.

A long long straight follows, the railway running close alongside. The tops of Ely Cathedral towers showing in the distance.

We were passed by flocks of Greylag Geese, Canada Geese with their babies, a River Patrol boat. We timed ourselves at the speed check, 52 seconds, not speeding.

Then there was a Grebe with their chicks. Hang on, one was hitching a ride! We’ve seen swans do this before, but not Grebes. My photos had to be hasty before the rider got off and swam of for themselves.

Ely moorings are extensive, last Friday we’d heard that they were full, Paul the boat mover had had to breast up to go shopping and then move out of town to moor up for the night. Today there was lots of room. Mick had called the marinas ahead to see if anyone might have space for us. One said they could accommodate us for £15 a night. We pootled through our eyes set on a GOBA mooring through the other side for the night, we’d then return in the morning to our booked mooring. But as we passed the marina we concluded that we’d more than likely be moored on the towpath, not within the marina, so no more secure than just being moored on the towpath for free. With spaces behind us we winded and returned to moor up on Lavender Green, Tilly might like it, or she might not.

First impressions were bad! Yes there were trees, but woofers and runners kept coming past. Then I discovered that willow trees are really rather satisfying to climb, especially ones that have grown out of the comb over phase.

Our mooring was perfectly positioned to wave at passing trains. We made sure we were outside for one particular train heading for Littleport. As we waved Christine (Mick’s sister) and Paul waved back at us. Family arriving.

You can get really rather high in these trees without spindly branches under your paws. Only downside was the gulls and crows shouting at me. I know they were impressed with my climbing skills but they needn’t have been so noisy about it.

One tree required several leaps to get higher, over hanging branches not possible to scale normally. Lots of calculations were required but I succeeded in getting to the top, it was brilliant. No idea why She didn’t think I’d like it here!

After a while I thought I could hear Tilly meowing, so came out to see what the fuss was about. She can be quite vocal whilst out but in such public places she’s that bit quieter. High up above there she was, calculations were on going trying to plot a route down the tree which involved getting even higher! Numpty! She got herself up there and I wasn’t about to go climbing or call the fire brigade!

Backwards, remember backwards! But she’d got herself into a tizzy and forgot. Front paw claws twisting in the bark, grip lost and she came tumbling down the tree to the ground.

A quick pat down was all I was allowed to do as she scurried back to the boat. Hopefully all was well.

We went for a little wander around, dropping some cards in a post box and picking up something for us to eat tonight. Ely sits on a hill, yes we do just about remember those. Some very pretty streets, the Cathedral, Oliver Cromwell’s house and lots and lots of yarn bombing by the local WI for the Jubilee.

An information board explained how the river sits high above the drained land. The land had been peat and when drained it obviously dried out. It dried out so much that the land shrank away leaving the rivers proud. There’s more to the history of this, but that’s for another time.

Back at the boat I had a catch up chat with David. Today he started having counselling sessions through the NBTA who have just been awarded funds through the National Lottery to help boat dwellers with mental health needs.

There will be more photos of this building in weeks to come.

0 locks, 10.46 miles, 1 wind, 1 large fish, 357 babies, 1 hitching a ride, 1 cathedral, 5782 jubilee pompoms, 1 yarn bombed eel, 1 deer, 3 trees conquered, 18ft dropped, 1 slightly bruised cat, 20 sessions.

https://goo.gl/maps/rSPAPUu58kkkEfAP9

It’s All Topsy Turvy Around Here. 22nd May

GOBA mooring River Wissey to Ten Mile Bank GOBA Mooring, River Great Ouse

Last night we went to sleep with a Sedge Warbler singing it’s heart out. This morning it was still seriously going for it. He’ll keep going until he finds a mate apparently!

No need to get going early today, in fact no real need to get going. Instead we had a good read of our Saturday newspaper with a cuppa in bed and then enjoyed a Mick breakfast. The hash brown had to be made without egg to bind it together today, but it held itself very well.

Tilly had a good ninety minutes shore leave, although one of the other boats on the mooring had a dog which every now and again necessitated a rapid return to the safety of the boat.

Just gone midday we pushed off and headed to where the Wissey joins the Great Ouse, here we turned left/upstream/southwards. The Wissey narrow and over hung with trees whilst the Great Ouse was wide and shimmering in the occasional bit of sun we had.

On the west bank a lady was out for a walk, young child in a pushchair who kept waving and on a lead a white pony who walked along at heel obediently.

The flood banks are quite high so we didn’t get any views, just the occasional tree and house popping up from behind the grass banks.

We pulled in at Hilgay Bridge to top up on water and put a load of washing on. There were two boats on the mooring in front of us. One a Black Prince hire boat, the chap noticed what we were doing and came to look at the tap. The people from the cruiser came for a chat, they were out to give their boat a good clean, but kept being distracted from their jobs.

River higher than the surrounding fields

Up on the bank the lay of the land just isn’t right. The surrounding fields lower than the river with the big banks between. Yes I get that the land was drained for agriculture, the water put into the river. But how did the river end up being where it is, it has to have existed before the land was drained. Were the banks raised so that it could accommodate more water? I think I need to revisit my Geography A level!

It’s all topsy turvy around here. Going down onto the Middle Level then up onto Tidal waters then down again whilst going upstream! All wrong!

Simon Judge responded to our question from the other day regarding the lowest you could be on the waterways. Here is his reply

The relief channel could be even lower. It’s worth noting that the Old River Nene used to flow in the direction you are travelling, ie downhill towards Upwell. The lock at Marmont shows how much the bottom section was lowered in 1850 or so when the main drain was built.

I do think Mullicourt must be the lowest aqueduct on the system …

PS the stretch to the south west of Lode End lock is lower than the main section when the lock is in use, but is not at a lower level below sea level if you see what I mean!

We continued a while southwards to the next GOBA mooring at Ten Mile Bank. Not much of a view from the river, just high grassy banks. But climb to the top of the bank and you can see for miles.

Outside a Whitethroat sang it’s heart out, getting a touch louder and quicker when Tilly arrived! She was given the afternoon to pounce in the long grass as our washing dried on the whirligig and I got out my project again. More circles cut, even smaller than last time and wire featured quiet a bit too!

0 locks, 4.27 miles, 1 left, 1 sparkling river, 1 full water tank, 7 sets of circles, 76 pounces, 1 topsy turvy world!

https://goo.gl/maps/b6rKK4Bt9LKUCDLF6

No Room At The End. 21st May

Second GOBA mooring to Second GOBA mooring via the end of navigation

Tilly was allowed shore leave this morning whist we had breakfast and joined the Geraghty Zoom. Brown muffin cases one of the topics covered today. As soon as we’d signed out the trip computer was started and we were pulling out our mooring spikes, time to see what else the River Wissey had to offer.

Not far upstream someone has made themselves quite a little mooring, no photo I’m afraid as it was hard to take one with their boat in the way. Steps cut into the flood bank, branch handrails, places to sit in amongst the trees, a kind of Robinson Crusoe affair.

I’d been told of an old fashioned butchers in Hilgay, it seemed to be the only shop we’d come across today. We pulled in at the 48hr public mooring and walked up through the village to reach AJ Dent, obviously a butcher with a sense of humour.

Inside the butchers counter was empty, all their meaty goods hidden out of view. I either know exactly what I want from a butchers, so this doesn’t matter, or I want to window shop, see what there is that might take my fancy. Sadly today I wanted to window shop, so came away with a newspaper and a small pork pie for Mick, well it is still his birthday weekend!

A chap and his dog sat at the bus stop whistling away the time as we walked on through the village. A lychgate led to a long lime tree covered lane, the other end another lychgate and most probably the village church. We had to go and see.

All Saints church is a medieval church built from carstone, the tower from white brick which replaced an earlier tower which collapsed. It was restored in 1862 by GE Street. It could almost have been built from gingerbread and royal icing. One face of the clock has seen better days, the others not telling the correct time anyway.

Did this Yew tree grown around the gravestone, or has it just ended up resting there?

Today we could only look round the exterior and graveyard as out of the two doors, only one had a handle and that was padlocked shut.

A very well kept village, even the more modern houses seemed to have immaculate gardens.

Back at the mooring we’d been joined by a cruiser who’d stopped for lunch, we followed suit. The chap we’d seen at the bus stop had returned from his trip and was starting up the small engine on his little dinghy, he headed off downstream as we headed upstream.

Plenty of cruisers moored along here, helping to keep our speed down. All different shapes and sizes were represented here.

Then out into the countryside again. Here damselflies flitted here and there, their turquoise, green and black flashing as they flew past. Terns swooped for insects. We wondered if the same terns were following us, but looking back it was obvious that the whole river was being dive bombed by them!

The views opened out a touch, followed by the not so picturesque sugar Factory. Pipes cross the river and end up at large piles of white. Are these the equivalent of the salt mounds around Middlewich? Giant sugar mounds?

Wide. Keep to the right side of the islands

Now the river widens out into a large pool. Knowing which way to head is handy. A mooring here would be great, a kind of Fenland Tixall, someone could even build a fake gatehouse to complete the look!

No Himalayan Balsam just a lot of this blue/purple plant. Anyone know what it is please? Possibly Comfrey according to Debby

A cruiser was pulled up on a bend, the chaps having just cut themselves a hollow in the friendly cover. Later on they’d dug themselves a fire pit and collected a lot of wood.

We looked forward to the view we might get at the Wissey Aqueduct, but large concrete walls gave us disappointment. Here the Cut Off Channel takes water from the Wissey, Little Ouse and Lark. In the summer months the water heads to Essex for drinking water, but in times of flood the excess water flows in the other direction to Denver Sluice, it’s main purpose when it was built in the 1950/60s.

Nearing Stoke Ferry and Whittington moored boats line the banks. One last chance for us to moor before the head of navigation would be reached. At Grange Farm Touring Park the one GOBA mooring space was already taken. Mick tired calling the park to see if they might have space for us elsewhere, but the answer came back no, we could of course breast up, but we didn’t fancy that.

On towards the end of navigation, we passed a rather lovely barn shouting out for a conversion.

Where Lode Dyke meets the River Wissey is as far as we could go. Someone has built themselves a nice little hut, with a landing and ladder for swimming here. A Kingfisher darted across our path and watched as we winded.

Our choices now were to either find a bit of bank we thought we’d be able to moor on without getting nettled too much, carry on back to Hilgay or even further back to where we’d started this morning. No bank showed itself, so we continued.

Just after the sugar factory on the north bank sits an expanse of greenhouses. Recently a cannabis farm had been discovered in the next street from our house in Scarborough. We joked that maybe tomatoes were grown in these greenhouses disguising the cannabis plants. Reading up in Mick’s new book later we discovered that we were almost correct in our jest!

In 2007 Wissington became the site of the first bioethanol power plant, spare heat was used to power on site greenhouses which produced 70 million tomatoes a year. In 2017 the greenhouses switched to producing cannabis plants for medical production. At harvest time that year a sweet smell spread over East Anglia emanating from the greenhouses!

The Pumphouse stands out from its surroundings, now converted into holiday accommodation. It sleeps 14 in 5 bedrooms and commands views across the Wissey Valley Nature Reserve.

Back in Hilgay there was space on the mooring, but we decided we’d rather wake up away from the road and would chance finding space back where we’d started the day.

Passing the boat on it’s homegrown mooring, the chap chatted as we passed, the same man who’d been at the bus stop and behind his narrowboat was his small dinghy, his dog lying watching the river slowly flow past.

At the GOBA mooring there were already a couple of boats moored, but thankfully there was plenty of space for us. We pulled up right on the end, hopefully we’d get away with Tilly thinking it was a whole new outside in the morning, it was now far too late for any shore leave.

0 locks, 18.65 miles, 1 wind, 1 butchers, 1 Saturday paper, 1 pork pie, 2 lychgates, 0 space, 2 kingfishers, 5332 terns, 90 minutes shore leave, 1 spun round outside left or tomorrow, 1 river ticked off.

Crossing The Tide. 20th May

Glady Dacks to 2nd GOBA mooring, River Wissey

Another early start for us, we’d the tide to catch!

Only time for one birthday present before we pushed off, a sponge squeegee thing to help clean the solar panels, a Barnetts in York purchase on Tilly’s behalf.

What a grey morning! The clouds above us looked like someone had rolled out a load of wadding or that we had been covered by a large grey focaccia. Waterproofs were at the ready should they be needed, they were later on.

We arrived at Salters Lode around 9:30, a chap in high vis asked if we’d be going through the lock today. Yes. He would be our lock keeper, we should be ready to go at 11:30, he’d just been down to let two long boats through the lock. Salters Lode Lock is 62ft long and heads out onto the Tidal River Great Ouse. If your boat is longer than 62ft then it is still possible to pass through the lock when the level of the river matches that of the creek, both gates on the lock open at the same time. He checked our length, we’d be fine, then he went to chat with NB Tank Girl they’d also be going through today.

We walked up to look at the lock and river. Mick had spent sometime last night watching Youtube videos of boats coming and going through Slaters Lode and Denver Sluice (the lock to get onto the non-tidal River Great Ouse. But there’s nothing like seeing the lay of the land/river and the speed at which the water passes by first hand.

The tide was on it’s way in. Outside the lock we could see the railings that help guide you into the mouth of the lock and hopefully avoid ending up on the sand banks. We then walked along the flood bank towards Denver Sluice, over Old Bedford Lock. Just half a mile of tidal water lays between the two locks. Denver Sluice looked bigger and more substantial with it’s big guillotine gates. Time for a cuppa back on board before the tide would be right for us.

At 11:30 both boats were ready. The lady from NB Tank Girl headed off to see if she could find the lock keeper, I followed in case we’d be told anything important. The chap took some finding as he was actually on the river side checking the depth of water, I couldn’t quite see, but I think he was in waders with a stick just on the side we’d seen a couple of hours earlier just sitting out of the water. ‘Another half hour’ he said. There are all sorts of factors to take into consideration at Salters Lode, tide, fresh water, an exact time can’t be given, but a good measure is required.

By now it was raining. Would our planned barbeque still be on or would we be lighting the stove and having jacket potatoes for Mick’s birthday meal?

About half an hour later the Lockie came to say the level was good, he was ready for us. NB Tank Girl went first, one boat at a time through the lock. They detached their chimney and laid it on the roof, air draught kept to the minimum. The bow rope was passed round a chain to help keep their boat into the side, then a sluice was opened letting jets of water into the lock. It doesn’t seem right that we’d be going up onto tidal water.

As the boat rose the Lockie kept reminding the lady to duck as she was positioned directly under part of the structure that was getting closer and closer. Then the guillotine gate was raised, would their boiler flue fit under the bridge? Out on the river the tide was now going out, they could wait for the level to be suitable to get out, but they managed to sneak out.

The Lockie made a phone call to Denver Sluice, there was a boat coming the other way, down stream. Both boats exited their respective locks at the same time and would pass somewhere on the half mile between, a bit like exchanging spies at Check Point Charlie. We watched NB Tank Girl exit, put the revs on and push her tiller over to head upstream and into the out going tide.

From up ahead we could see NB Annie heading downstream, the two boats would end up passing on the wrong side, but that didn’t really matter. The Lockie stood high by the lock, his high vis coat worn for a reason. He held his arm out pointing to downstream, NB Annie held her course. Then when his arm was dropped, the chap at the helm began his turn. As you would at Selby he swung around to face the out going tide and then inched his way back towards the lock. Did he have enough power to avoid hitting the downstream wall? Did he have too much power on and be going to miss the fencing and end up on the sand bank?

In the end he glided in towards the lock, touching nothing. As he came into the lock his voice sounded familiar, hang on was it Paul the narrowboat mover. Sure was. He remembered us too, our paths having crossed at Bosley two years ago and up on the Leicester Section last year. Good to see him again. He bought a one day licence for the Middle Level, he’d be across and out the other side by 10:30am tomorrow.

As soon as Paul was clear of the lock it was our turn. Rope passed round the chain, sluice opened. By the time the guillotine raised the level of the out going tide was already about 18 inches lower than it had been for Tank Girl. We thanked the Lockie then Mick nudged the bow out of the lock towards the tide.

Revs, tiller and we were facing the tide in the rain, great birthday weather! The half mile didn’t take long and we were soon entering Denver Sluice which was sat waiting for us. A stern rope was passed round a riser, the guillotine dropped behind us. We’d be going down off the tidal water and onto the River Great Ouse.

Another Lockie to thank as we came out and onto the wide expanse of river. As we made our way upstream we discussed what to have for lunch. A bowl of soup maybe, or a bacon butty. The bacon won!

A mile and a quarter upstream we spotted the turn onto the River Wissey and took it. Under the railway bridge we pulled in at a GOBA mooring. The Great Ouse Boating Association are similar to Friends of the River Nene and have moorings for members to use, membership £23 a year.

The mooring was showing signs of subsidence, little of it level. With another mooring just a short distance further on we pushed off and tried there instead. We pulled in and made ourselves at home. Lots of birds for company and a herd of sheep on the other side who seemed to head off in a hurry for a hair cut.

Lunch, bacon butties was followed by Birthday Cake, Blueberry Lemon and Almond cake. Candles and everything.

Then presents. Mick got the latest edition of the Imray guide to The River Great Ouse and it’s tributaries, featuring several photos of Heather and her boat NB Bleasdale, we’ve also spotted Simon on NB Scholar Gypsy in there too. He also got a new blue tooth keyboard and mouse for his tablet computer, the current one’s had been working intermittently for a while.

As Tilly explored her surroundings we hid inside hoping the weather would improve. Sunshine came and went, but the rain didn’t return. So late afternoon Mick found what he thought would be the more sheltered part of our mooring and set up the bbq as I threaded veg and haloumi onto skewers and wrapped salmon and bananas up in foil ready to cook.

Maybe a little bit chilly, but we still enjoyed our private mooring with food and wine. Tilly was given an extension to cat curfew. She spent most of it staring into the friendly cover with the occasional break to climb a tree.

2 locks, 4.93 miles, 1 leftish, 1 right, 1 left, 0.5 miles of tidal water, 1 creek, 2 rivers, 1 wet day, 1 mover, 1 cake, 12 candles, 2 cards, 3 presents, 2nd mooring, 7 hours shore leave, 8 asparagus tips, 4 veg haloumi kebabs, 2 salmon steaks, 1 sunset, 1 Mick 1 year older.

https://goo.gl/maps/Ct4dy6QBBGWs5H9e9

Shed After Shed After Shed. 19th May

Burnthouse Farm Bridge to Glady Dacks, Well Creek

Plenty of miles to tick off today so no lounging around in bed with a cuppa. Other people were up and at work, as we sat having our breakfast two Middle Level Commissioners vans arrived on the bank above our mooring, they’d come to make the mooring official by adding a sign.

The chaps worked away and as we got ready to push off they headed off to position the next new sign.

We pushed off and headed towards March. The birdies chirped and darted about in the reeds to each side of us. The banks a suitable height to give you a bit of a view, not block it totally. Yesterday we’d passed several pill boxes today at least one more.

Fairly soon we were approaching March, passing the marina where the hire boats have been coming from. Everyone in March seems to have a detached garden. Houses sit on one side of a road, their gardens on the other, terraced down towards the water. Plenty of people have made a great effort, places to sit out, landings, windmills, crocodiles. One stretch seems to have an epidemic of sheds going on, one after the other with just a narrow path between them.

The first public mooring we came across was closed the bank subsiding into the water. The moorings opposite the services was full, we pulled up to top up with water, dispose of rubbish and as it was on the right side we emptied the yellow water too. Thankfully through the bridge there was space, plenty of it for us to pull up to go shopping. Yes I did a shop in Peterborough, that was really just in case we couldn’t stop here in March, there was plenty we wanted and with Sainsburys close by it turned into a four bag shop. A visit to Boots too for some Hay Fever tablets of the right variety, I spotted a Boyes (possibly the furthest south they come), we’ll be stopping to have a better look later.

After an early lunch we pushed on, passing more houses and gardens, one stretch trying to mimic beach huts. The sky was now blue with fluffy clouds, no need for the extra layers we’d started the day with.

Straight on past the Twenty Foot River which seemed a touch wider than it’s name suggests. At Popham’s Eau junction we veered left keeping to the link route. We passed Charlotte Rose whom we’d shared the last Nene locks with and a hire boat sat nestled in amongst the reeds enjoying the afternoon sunshine, no rope visible, the gentle breeze just holding them to the bank.

As the channel now narrowed there was an increase of weed, the sort that hampers your progress somewhat. Thankfully today it wasn’t too bad, just the occasional blast of reverse to free the prop was needed.

A lock! Marmont Priory Lock would rise us up from the lower level by 6ft 8inches onto Well Creek. The lock was partially filled, hydraulic paddle gear needed to be wound so many times slowly inching up the slackers.

Inside the lock was a layer of scum, possibly dead duck weed mixed with polystyrene, there was also a big plank.

The paddle gear at the top end only required one to be lifted and that had a marker on it. Oleanna rose up to Well Creek right by the rather pretty front door of the lock cottage. Progress was now slower than before. The gates of Marmont Priory Lock need to be very well closed so that the creek stays in water, a drop here can take days to rectify.

Progress slowed even more as we reached Upwell where the channel narrows even more. We ended up on tickover to make any headway, the water around us just about enough for us to move.

Upwell and Outwell reminded us of villages we go through on our scenic route from Scarborough to York. The linear villages cling to the road and have a stream running alongside, driveways crossing on small bridges. Here the stream is far bigger and it’s mostly footbridges that crossed over our heads requiring us to duck.

The houses mostly have plaques boasting their names and dates. A butchers was spied and the fish and chip shop has it’s own mooring! I’ll have to check to see if they do gluten free. We made note of moorings as it looks like we’d need to have a good explore around here.

Sign posts to Littleport and Wisbech. An old college friend came from Wisbech, she used to say no-one had ever heard of it, well I have now! At the most northerly point of the Middle Level is where the Wisbech Canal used to head further north, now it is just a steep bend for us to negotiate. There’s a mooring here, but maybe you’d get biffed by passing boats!

Over Millicourt Aqueduct we crossed over the end of the Main Drain, such a romantic name. It looked very wide down there so possible to wind, we’ll have to check our maps for any low bridges that would stop us from getting there.

Now a busy road, A1122 hugs close to the creek. The banks now lower giving more of a view. Pylons stretch off into the distance both ways, only broken up by two smaller towers. I checked on the OS map, almost 21 km straight before a slight kink.

Our planned for mooring just came into sight, Glady Dacks. A rather rickety afair, one end looked better than the other. We pulled in and stepped off cautiously. A bench and table sat by Oleanna, a good means to be able to step up to see the other side of the high bank separating the road from us. On one side it looked like Tilly heaven, the other side it looked like she’d be assisted on her way. Sorry Tilly, no chance.

Now there were secret things to do. A birthday cake was mixed up, popped in a loaf tin to bake. It needed a bit of attention as it baked, added toppings, foil and an extra five minutes in the oven, then once cooled off some lemon icing.

Dinner was Turkey Schnitzel with spaghetti, I was too busy to take photos so the recipe will follow the next time I make them. Then Tilly and I had to hide away in the bedroom to do secret things. Wrapping on a bed isn’t the easiest of places but we managed. All done and ready for tomorrow just before the 10pm news, I don’t think Mick noticed a thing!

1 lock, 16.84 miles, 2 maybe 3 straights, 1 left, 1 big bend, 2 boxes wine, 1 Boyes, 60 hayfever tablets, 1 slab of salmon, 8 asparagus tips, 1 warm dry evening hoped for, 3 evenings no shore leave, 1 long day, 3 presents wrapped, 1 blueberry lemon cake baked, 2 much icing, 1 pooped Pip.

https://goo.gl/maps/UjsDib8W8YWnqPoN7

Is This As Low As We Can Go? 18th May

Dog in a Doublet to Burnthouse Bridge Rural Mooring, Whittlesey Dyke, Middle Level

Yesterday Mick had phoned Stanground Lock to book our passage through for today. Kev, not Tina had called us back and booked us for midday. He also rang us this morning, yesterday he’d responded to a missed call on the mobile, today he was responding to Mick’s message.

We gave ourselves a couple of hours to return back up the Nene to Peterborough Junction where we’d turn onto the Back River, the aroma of partially cooked chips hanging in the air today. Does anyone know what the metal framed tower is on the north shore of the river?

The Back River brings you under a railway bridge, then past the back of the houses at Stanground. Soon we arrived at the lock and Kev popped up from nowhere, we were an hour early just as the timings on our maps had suggested, but better early than late.

Kev set the lock, the nearest paddle/slacker lifted to fill it, I could see straight through the opening, you don’t often get a view like that. With the gates open we were soon in the lock. Time to chat Anglian Passes.

About a month ago Mick had applied for an Anglian pass on line. This gives you access to the Middle Level and the River Cam and lasts a year. The pass is a fairly new thing and has caused quite a to do in certain circles. The website had said someone would ring to take payment. No-one did. So with our arrival getting closer Mick rang and was told that our application hadn’t arrived, could he fill out the form again and email it to them, then someone would call to take payment. This he did. We are still waiting for the phone call.

This tale was nothing new to Kev, he wasn’t surprised. He wrote us down on his sheet and took our details. Next we needed to purchase ourselves a key and a key. A different navigation authority means a new key to access facilities. We also required a different windlass, which in these parts is called a key. Kev had both for sale and quickly provided them in return for £17. We also enquired about Salters Lode on the other side of the Middle Level, we’d tried calling the Lock Keeper there but had had no response. Kev said we’d just need to arrive at a suitable time for the tide, he then provided us with the tide time. No need to book just turn up and we’d be locked through. What a helpful chap, very reminiscent of the Lock Keeper at Thames Lock onto the River Wey.

The paddles on the lock were lifted, the lock emptied, gates open. We’d descended onto the Level. Well maybe we’d descended a touch too far as Oleanna seemed to want to stay put in the lock. There was a little bit of movement so a push out at the stern and bow a bit of a jiggle and she was free! We are on the cusp of draft for the navigation. Mick later on read notes written by Simon Judge regarding deep drafted boats going through the lock backwards, well we know now!

Narrow and shallow, our speed would be a lot slower than it had been out on the river.

Here sky rules, when would we get to see our next hill? Flat as flat, well until we came across a new railway bridge being built.

A view of the brick works and McCains from the other side this time. Two churches in Whittlesey. Three work boats sat at the edges of the navigation, having their lunch break, weed cutters, one called Covid 20.

Ahead lay the bend we’ve heard of between bridges 111 and 110, the navigation is narrow the bend 90 degrees. Mick slowed Oleanna right down as we passed possibly the nearest vets to the waterways, then took us round in one go with plenty of room to spare.

A public park in Whittlesey has a 48hr mooring, space for two narrowboats, we pulled in for lunch then consulted our schedule. Should we stay here the night? We were already ahead of schedule, Tilly would be able to go out, other moorings further on looked like they would be alongside roads, so not deemed to be cat friendly.

‘Two hours Tilly, we might want to go out and explore ourselves.’

Another look at our schedule, planned mooring places for the next few days. Waterway Routes open as well as Google Maps satellite view. A meeting with family is planned next week, a mooring to have a birthday barbeque would be good too, so we’re only using the link route through the Middle Level at the moment. Our planned passage through Salters Lode to Denver Sluice had been on Saturday, but all of a sudden the moorings on the Great Ouse looked a touch more appealing. Did we have enough time to reach Salters Lode for Friday morning? If we cracked on today yes.

Fortunately Tilly had decided that the grass outside wasn’t up to much and had retired to the bedroom, but as soon as the back door closed we got complaints. ‘You know I said 2 hours, well I actually meant 2 minutes!’

Ashline Lock drops the navigation down by 6ft, it lay a short distance in front of us. The width of the locks isn’t enough to be able to share with another narrowboat, bottom gates should be left open, paddles closed to help conserve water levels. Time to use our new windlass/key, so new it’s grey paint not fully cured!

The paddles at the top of the lock are similar to those you find on the Leeds Liverpool canal, you just can’t see whether they are open or not, then how many turns until they are fully open? The lock gradually filled. The bottom paddles are similar but positioned on the gates themselves. I chose to count how many turns they took to open, twenty, thirty, thirty five, I gave up, the lock slowly emptied.

Is this the lowest you can be on non-tidal water in England? At Lodes End Lock to our south the level is variable and can be nothing, but it suggests on our map that to head west through the lock you may rise to be on the level we are on now. Around us the contour on the OS map was around 0 or even -1 in some fields.

In the pamphlet we’d been given it showed us the location of Rural moorings, but Mick had spied on the website that there were another four such moorings, two of which we’d be going past today. Might they be more cat friendly than the public moorings?

The first was at Angle Corner. 32m of bank had been cut and large posts added to tie to. Here you might be able to get off your boat without too much trouble, but the bank is steep, nothing that would worry Tilly. We made a note of its position to report back to Paul at Waterway Routes.

Just past Burnthouse Bridge there was a second mooring. We consulted our maps, if we didn’t stop here we had at least another two hours to cruise to the next mooring in March which may not have space. We pulled in flung our ropes over the posts, Oleanna sat a good meter out from solid land, a plank or major leap of faith would be needed here to get off, but that didn’t bother us. A quick cat health and safety discussion, she’d get off okay, but would almost certainly arrive back on board wet. No shore leave today for any of us!

2 locks, 13.89 miles, 1 wind, 1 left, 1 straight on, 1 hour early, 2 minutes shore leave, 2 hire boats, 1 private boat, 3 work boats, 1 new key, 1 new key, 2 levels, 10 new posts, 1 contract to sign, 1 storm approaching, 0 Anglian Pass.

https://goo.gl/maps/yqpCcmpAE7s4gvee9

Do Bricks Smell Like Chips? 17th May

The Boat House to Dog In A Doublet Visitor Moorings

Tilly wasn’t too pleased at the doors staying shut this morning. We’d had enough of sitting in one place or a while, Peterborough has served us well but it’s time to move on.

We said goodbye to NB Mushy P and just as we were rolling up our covers to set off a narrowboat arrived into the basin obviously looking for a mooring. With not enough room for them to pull in behind us they did a big loop whilst we finished off preparing to leave and then slotted straight in after us, the landing not having had time to cool off.

First the services for water, rubbish and to empty the yellow water tank. Whilst Mick did the chores I walked up to Asda for some fresh shopping, there’s a cake that needs baking this week and options for a barbeque needed purchasing should we find a suitable mooring on a day with suitable weather.

Since we were here last week someone has painted onto the service block. It turns out that the Embankment area is set for redevelopment. I’ve not had chance to read through the whole of the Masterplan which will set out to enhance the south facing river side with new park land, a cultural quarter, a university campus and possibly a stadium. It’s a 70 acre site so lots of prime land.

Did we share locks with NB Eleanor a couple of years ago?

Once lunch was out of the way we pushed off making note of the less kept moorings after Frank Perkins Parkway Bridge, plenty of boats that have been here for quite some time, but space should the depth be sufficient for our return trip.

Right towards the Great Ouse, left/straight on to The Wash

At Peterborough Junction the navigation splits. To the right is the Back River leading to Stanground Lock and the Middle Level. From there 100 miles of navigation head off mostly in straight lines, flood protection along with a navigable connection between the River Nene and the Great Ouse. A separate licence is required for the Middle Level, I strongly suspect I’ll have things to say about that in future posts.

Straight on the River Nene takes on a different character heading onwards in a wide straight channel towards tidal waters, The Wash. As we’d come all the way down the river it wouldn’t be right to miss out this section and reach the end of the non tidal river. It reminded us somewhat of the Aire and Calder Navigation, lots of sky, the occasional slight bend but the possibility to see for a mile or so straight ahead.

Ducks, cows, a horse, a few moored boats, the smell of chips in the air! Hang on chips?! Where was that coming from, we were still quite some distance from the Dog in a Doublet Pub, like a couple of miles away. On the sky line three tall brick chimneys soared up into the sky, smoke or steam streamed out from a couple of them.

These are the chimneys from the brickworks. Peterborough was famous for it’s bricks, most villages had their own small clay pits. Fletton Bricks are possibly the greenest bricks to be made as the clay has a high inbuilt fuel content which means the clay ignites itself and burns to a high temperature meaning there is no need for the use of coal.

But could bricks really smell like chips?

No is the answer, on the map McCains can be seen, a much more likely candidate for the aroma!

We were looking for a possible place to moor on the north bank. However the bank was a forest of nettles for most of the way, but then a boat length seemed to be clearer shortly before a curvy bridge. We’d like to visit Flag Fen without having to walk several miles to get there, so this may be a possible place to stop. The archaeological site is only open Wednesday to Sunday, we’d considered visiting it tomorrow but that would set back our schedule by a day, so it’s another place to visit on our way back.

With the last bend of the channel we could see Dog in a Doublet lock straight ahead, some 1.8 miles away.

We eventually pulled up on the pontoon shortly before the lock a road running right alongside. This road to us had seemed like it would have the occasional car or tractor on it, but oh no, it is busy with lots of fast cars and the occasional slow tractor!

We walked up to have a look at the lock, taking our lives in our hands walking along the very narrow edge of the road. But the lock was locked of to the public. The windows of the buildings boarded up, but the gardens quite well tended. By the lock green islands sat just above the top gates.

We had a look at the tidal side of the lock, nothing much to report other than a river really, not quite high tide. Along the road there is the pub Dog in a Doublet, they are renowned for their good food, but we’d be having some of that back on board instead.

The pub and only a few cars at the junction

0 locks, 6.22 miles, 1 left, 1 straight on, 1 full water tank, 1 empty yellow water tank, 1 clean pooh box, 1 locked off lock, 1 nontidal river ticked off, 1 lock booked, 1 lock not answering the phone, 1 possible mooring, 1 mardy cat, 0 shore leave, 3 chats, 5:30 traffic jam.

https://goo.gl/maps/XPwwEgmSWy6qadPd7

Clamping The Slipper. 16th May

The Boathouse

What a quiet day. Three fishermen turned up, I could hear them being disappointed that they’d not all be able to set up on the landing here, but they soon got settled around the basin. I could then hear the heron being disappointed that his favourite spot for fishing was now taken up by on of the chaps, this was followed by a disgruntled swan. We’ll be moving on soon, so all will return to normal.

The doors front and back were opened as soon as I was dressed and Tilly came and went, mostly through the secret gap in the cratch cover, for most of the day.

First job was to glue Mick’s slippers. Mick has alien feet which seem to break slippers very quickly. Supermarket slippers only tend to last around 9 months before they fall to bits. His last pair of sheepskin slippers were replaced twice and then mended by myself a couple of times before the new pair took over at Christmas. The joint between sole and upper was starting to show a possible parting, so some Max Repair Uhu was put to use and then clamps were applied to assist in the setting. Here’s hoping this works for a while!

It was the turn of the bathroom floor to get a good scrub. Everything lifted from the floor, including the 30 litres of wood cat litter. Tilly’s numerous balls tend to hide behind her pooh box were found and moved elsewhere, then the floor was given a good scrub and a wash down. Now all we have to do is levitate and not molt!

I set about working on a little project. Model making things were retrieved from deep inside the dinette, reference photos printed out to a useful size. Then I started drawing out numerous circles, cutting them out and threading them onto cocktail sticks. I’m not going to say what they are for just yet, but I’ll give you little teasers in photos.

Mick arrived back late afternoon with two tins of sweetcorn and a parcel I’d had sent to Scarborough. Sadly the parcel only contained half of my order, so only half of Mick’s birthday present! Oh well that just means his birthday will have to be extended a touch.

0 locks, 0 miles, 2 more trains, 2 buses to avoid the rain, 6 months, 2 tins sweetcorn, 1 spotless bathroom floor, 12 paw prints! 9 hours of open doors, 0.5 of an order, 1 project started, 26 circles, 1 cake decision to be made, 4 clamps, 24 hours to cure.

Gormley Spotting. 15th May

The Boathouse

Today it was Mick’s turn to head northwards. Morning appointments mean it’s cheaper to travel the night before, although with train strikes on Sundays this makes trains across to Scarborough a touch awkward. But the advantage of a night in Scarborough is that today the grass would get cut along with a touch more gardening. If we were living in the house I’m sure we would be taking part in No Mow May, we do our bit for the pollinators elsewhere in the garden and it helps to make the house look loved, until it has grown another a foot!

I walked into town as Mick sped off on a bike. Half way there I realised that I would have to wait for the shops to open so I needed something else to keep me occupied.

Yesterday when checking out the sculptures I read about there being some Antony Gormley figures high above the Cathedral Square, so I went Gormley spotting.

Places To Be was commissioned back in the 1980’s by Peterborough Development Corporation, it was originally on display at Monkstone House Offices but it got vandalised. The three figures were then moved to the water meadows where it lived for eight years, but sadly one of them lost their arms. Back in 2018 new arms were attached and the figures moved once more to be above Cathedral Square. They are about the future, looking forward, walking towards and embracing the future.

I had a clue as to where they were positioned, if you look up two of the figures are in plain sight, but the third one eluded me. I walked along most of the façade of the Queensgate Shopping centre where it was meant to be to no avail! But I had omitted to look behind me on exiting the shopping centre, the walking man is a little shy.

A visit to Clares for a stretchy head band, a check round M&S Foodhall for anything marked down in price that looked tasty, then I walked towards the station to Waitrose. This would be the only place in town for me to buy the yoghurt I like, got a few other bits too.

Back at the boat I was relieved that there were only two fishermen, so far. The stern doors were opened for Tilly and the cratch got a cat sized hole for ease of access should the stern not be reachable today. Tilly and I agreed that we didn’t want the same thing to happen today, the both of us left hoping she’d be able to get back to Oleanna in safety. It would also have been very unfair not to let her out, we just hoped our mooring didn’t become too popular once again.

The weather helped. In fact there was only really one group of teenagers who came to sit by the water today. They brought their music and loud voices and gradually moved into the woods as it started to rain.

The chap who likes test driving his rib arrived with his cruiser. I thought that now the basin would be full of petrol fumes and many waves as he practiced doing wheelies and going sideways. He pulled up behind us, stayed for twenty minutes and then pushed off, thank goodness!

Being inside on my own meant I could give the floor a good clean. It gets swept through quite frequently, but with muddy paws and shoes constantly traipsing through it gets bad. We like boating, not cleaning boats. The mop was so solid it needed a good half hours soak before I could wring it out. Everything was lifted off the floor, mats taken outside for a good bashing. I swept, hoovered and then gave it a really good wash. Then a second wash. A scrub on high traffic areas with a pan scrubber, another quick mop down before I left it all to dry.

Then out came the Method wooden floor cleaner. I’ve had this for years but have never had enough time on my own when the floor has been clean enough to warrant using it! The instructions said to squirt it onto the floor, then using a dry mop with long strokes to clean the floor. Well there was the mop on the roof, now wet with rain and not particularly clean. Then the mop I’d been using which was very wet. So I created my own mop like thing with the broom, a clean large cloth and some parcel tape. This worked very well and will, if I ever get round to it again, be repeated.

Of course soon as I was finished and stood back to admire the lovely clean floor, Tilly arrived through the cratch, straight through the boat with her wet muddy paws to her food bowl! Oh well I’d been proud of my efforts for a minute or two.

At about 4:30pm Tilly decided that inside was a better place to be today. The doors remained open until gone 6, but she wasn’t interested. Outside remained quiet apart from our neighbour running his generator for half an hour. Out of interest is the 8pm to 8am rule applicable on EA waters too?

0 locks, 0 miles, 2 trains, 2 lawns cut, 1 Christmas hedge trimmer put to good use, 2 Gormleys, 1 still to spot, 3 head bands, 2 pots yoghurt, 5 miles walked, 3 washes, 1 scrub, 2 cleans, 1 lovely clean wooden….. 64 muddy paw prints! 1 quieter day all round.

Narrowboat Oleanna

Travels of Narrowboat Oleanna