Being still today wasn’t going to matter to us. I would be heading off on a train to York for a hospital appointment around midday. Mick was heading to Scarborough to do a turn around at the house plus a roofer, via our insurance company, was coming to look at the leak that had happened a week ago. Originally this was meant to have been Friday, then it got moved to Monday, now it was supposed to happen Tuesday.
How long has this latch been letting people onto the towpath?
We were getting ourselves sorted for some time away from the boat, when my phone rang. York Hospital having to cancel my appointment due to staff illness. I knew I shouldn’t have booked my train ticket yesterday! Oh blimey, I’d been referred back in February, how long would it be before I could be seen? Thankfully a new appointment could be made for two weeks time, I snapped it up. No need for me to head to York now.
Six pairs, only five heading off today
Mick headed off to catch a train to Scarborough, he’d booked himself a flu and covid jab this afternoon at a chemists he’d be walking past, so at least that part of the plan would work. Whilst on the train to York he had a phone call about the roofer. Could they come Wednesday? This was becoming a joke now and really awkward. Mick was already on his way to meet someone tomorrow and staying an extra night might hold up our descent from Marsden. By the end of several phone calls the insurance company have now agreed that we can get the roof fixed as long as it costs no more than £200, but we’ll need a vat receipt, so not just a cash in hand job.
New neighbours
I spent the morning packing up five pairs of socks. A boat came and joined us from the tunnel, they must have come through first thing.
Same as yesterday
Then I walked down the locks to have a look to see what was happening at lock 37E. The answer to that was nothing. The orange fencing hadn’t been touched from what I could tell and the handrail uprights still looked the same. Hopefully something will happen with it tomorrow.
I didn’t have a pint
I walked down into the village. Large disused mills sit in the valley. Further info can be found here. In the early 19th Century, the mills in Marsden included cotton mills, silk mills and woollen mills. Bank Bottom Mill in 1936 covered 14 acres and employed 1900 people, it closed in 2003. It still sits empty over looking the village.
I walked past New Mill, known locally at Crowthers Mill, it was part of the J.E. Crowther and Sons firm and in 1936 had 260 looms and 32 carding machines. It sits in the village centre, just behind the main shopping street, the River Colne running along its northern side.
New Mill
Earlier this year a council report said that a redevelopment scheme for New Mill had become unviable. The scheme was to include light industry and offices. It had received £5.6 million on levelling up cash and £11.7 million from the private sector. Increased costs mean more funds are required. Some of the buildings were due to be demolished to be replaced with light industrial units the majority of the site does not have listed status. It’s such a good location in the village and such a shame with all it’s broken windows.
Socks went in the post and I climbed back up the hill to Oleanna. Tilly was allowed some more accompanied shore leave. Calculations that she’d been working on were tried, and failed. A long stretch at one point, stood on hind leg tippy toes had her only a third of the way up the face of the wall, the stone hard to grip onto with her claws. Thankfully some walkers came along, she decided to sit in a window and contemplate the wall some more. I won’t be beaten!
(Paw x block size) -72.4 /532.86 % 53+4538/tail whip x {987-bum wiggle factor} 45.7
Yarn for pair 41 was wound into a cake and the toe cast on whilst watching the finale of Traitors NZ. I’m pleased with the outcome. But dressing for your fellow contestants funerals, well!
0 locks, 0 mended, 0 miles, 5 pairs on their way, 1 contemplating cat.
Up early, we moved to the tunnel portal a little after 8am. With the water tank filling we had breakfast, there was hardly likely to be anyone turning up for a few hours and we knew roughly when they’d be arriving.
At 8.30 someone arrived from CRT to unlock the tunnel gates. They asked us once we’d filled the tank to move back so there would be space for the boat coming through from Marsden, they’d be setting off shortly and would arrive around 10.30. We did as instructed and then got on with preparing Oleanna for the tunnel.
I might stay in amongst the washing today thanks
Mick forgets the things we did last time. A similar conversation as the one we had before trying Froghall Tunnel. The pram cover and frame were removed. Cratch cover taken off and stowed inside. Poo buckets removed from on top of the gas locker and popped in the well deck, space was made for me to be able to sit there. Next the nav lights were removed just leaving the wires wrapped in lx tape sticking out of the cabin sides. Bags of coal flattened on the roof, all planks, poles etc put into the gutters. Top of the chimney removed, the stove had been left to go out overnight.
Horns at the ready
I got a message on my phone, could I please call someone back from CRT. I first thought it might be to do with our near miss yesterday, however it was about a closure ahead of us. There was a bridge at one of the Marsden Locks which engineers had deemed not safe. The bridge is the only means of getting to the offside to open and close the gates. It would be looked at again on Monday and hopefully they’d have us on the move again soon. The flight is kept locked to help conserve water and you have to book a passage down. Our journey down the east side of the HNC had been planned around various things. So hopefully they will be able to get us down on suitable days. The chap on the phone told me all the good things we’d be able to do in Marsden over the weekend. There are worse places we could get stuck.
Their return journey through the tunnel
At 10.15 I could see a light in the tunnel. At 10.30 the bow of a hire boat appeared from the dark. A lady stood at the front, three chaps in high-vis at the stern, a dog started to bark it’s head off inside the cabin.
Checking we’ll fit through
David and Stuart came over to see us. David checked to see if we knew about the Marsden flight being closed, did we still want to go through the tunnel? Yes please, even if we have to wait a few days it would still be better than going the long way round to Yorkshire. Oleanna was measured, the top of the pan covering the removed mushroom vent deemed to be the highest point. Depth under the water. 1ft 4″! No chance!! They tried again, 2ft 4″, more like it. Across the top of the cabin at the bow, 4ft 11″, just under the 5ft we’d been told about for Froghall Tunnel. We’d fit.
David, Mick and Stuart
Gas turned off, cuppas made for those who wanted one with the electric kettle. Safety briefing given. Tilly was noted, yes we would be able to climb a ladder if needs be and walk 1.5km. We passed, now we just had to wait the required 3/4 of an hour after the last boat had left before we could go in, this helps fumes to clear.
Going under the railway
With all cabin lights on, we hoped Tilly would have a better journey through the tunnel than she did last time. I actually don’t know how she fared as I didn’t hear her or see her once in the 90 minutes it took us to get through.
Neat archway
On our first trip through on NB Lillyanne Mick had been at the helm, I sat at the stern along with the chaperone from CRT who gave us a good running commentary along with guiding Mick around the S bend in the middle of the tunnel. Three years ago there was still social distancing, Oleanna’s stern was just big enough for the chaperone to be with Mick at the stern, or the chaperone could be at the helm. Mick opted to sit at the bow with me so he could enjoy the trip through rather than spend all his time concentrating. This was quite a noisy affair, every bump or scrape could be heard, we winced quite a few times but were then relived when there was no noticeable damage.
Sprayed concrete and a giant spider
Today Mick opted to be at the helm. David and Stuart would be with him at the stern and I would be alone at the front. There were two of them today as Stuart is in training for Tunnel Control, but needs to know the tunnel too.
Stone
A large lamp was positioned on our gas locker, fire extinguisher and various gas monitors were positioned at the stern. A large crate of stuff and a spare light were popped in the bow with me.
At the bow I had a cushion to sit on, camera and phone. I’d wanted to set up a time lapse, but because of yesterdays drama had totally forgotten about it. I’d also forgotten to give the cratch window a good clean! Oh well, at least we were here and about to go through!
At 11.15 Oleanna was pushed out. A chap who’d been walking up the Diggle flight yesterday had brought his family to watch us. I said we’d race them to the other end. Then we were in the tunnel, brick lined arched roof. Then the roof line flattens out where the rail tunnel crosses over head to travel for the majority of the way on our left hand side.
Craggy reflections
The tunnel was authorised by an Act of Parliament in 1794. Construction began a few months later. Within two years cost saving measures and water levels pushed back the tunnels completion date. Thomas Telford took over and drew up a new plan for the tunnels completion and in 1811 it opened. By 1943 it was closed but with the restoration of the canal it reopened in 2001.
That bit goes up some way
Three other tunnels head through the hillside. The first rail tunnel was built in 1848, a second in 1871 these were both to the east of the canal tunnel. The canal was used to remove spoil as the other tunnels were dug and adits were created between them. Then a third rail tunnel was made, this one crossed over the canal tunnel from the east, runs along side it then back over to the east side before resurfacing at Marsden. This was built in 1894 and is the one used today.
The white lines are the drill holes
The interior of the tunnel varies so much. Arched brickwork, Brickwork with ribs giving it more support, several different types of rock. On some stretches you can see where holes were drilled to insert explosives, here there and everywhere.
There are ties holding up the roof, sections where concrete has been sprayed over the surface to keep it more stable. Stone block sections.
Hello!
Small tunnels head off to the east, adits leading to the old rail tunnels where a CRT van follows your progress. Some of these are well lit, and a high-vis chap stood waiting for us, he could also be seen on one of the walk ways that cross overhead to the current rail tunnel. The accompanying van may soon be a thing of the past as new communications have been installed. On our roof we’d had a radio repeater added for our journey. Every now and then there would be something similar attached to the roof of the tunnel, glowing like a UFO as our lights caught it. At each adit the person in the van acknowledged us, but then David would radio Tunnel Control with our location. The system is still being tested, but once it is okayed the driver will no longer be needed in the other tunnel.
Our progress was steady. Quite a bit of bumping about. We discussed this later no, Mick wasn’t aware of as much bumping as I was at the bow, maybe on Lillyanne we’d done a similar amount but not been aware of it.
As with just about all tunnels there are wet bits. I’d put full waterproofs on knowing how wet I’d got last time. One spout of water pulsated towards the cabin side as we passed. Other water features were just a wall of water to pass through. At each one I would stand up and try to position myself under the cratch board, I still got quite wet! Mick at the stern had David and Stuart stand up at one time blocking his view.
This way out! or should we just go straight on?
Small pieces of wood could occasionally be seen on the roof. These were Leggers boards, they had numbers written on them so that the leggers would know where they were. I also spotted quite a few red plastic cotton reels attached to the walls, no idea what these were and forgot to ask about them.
David gave Mick instructions when we reached the S bend, slow, to the right a bit, don’t be tempted to turn just yet, go over a touch. All very helpful instructions and making sure we avoided any overhanging sections of wall that might get our cabin sides. Now Mick was asked to pick up pace, the trip boat was due to come into the tunnel at 1pm and it would be good if we were clear before then.
We popped out into the sunshine of West Yorkshire at 12.45 an hour and a half after entering.
All the kit was removed from Oleanna quicky and we pushed over to the off side for lunch. Over lunch we discussed what to do. We wondered if we could stay here on the offside, there’d be no boats heading for the tunnel over the weekend due to the Marsden flight being closed. Mick went over and chatted to the volunteers (they have 100 on this side of the HNC), he was told it would be fine to stay.
Marsden Tunnel End
As we put Oleanna back together we waited for trains to come past. An educated guess on a train from Manchester was waved at, Josh was most probably on it heading to York for a weekend with Andrew and Jac. I’d sent him instructions on where to look as soon as he was through the tunnel, but it being his first time on the train route he almost certainly missed us.
The Cat H&S committee looked round. Perfect for Tilly apart from one thing, the railway line. Yes there is a good fence that she’d not be able to get through. But the fence was certainly climbable, it also has several trees very closeby which she’d be up like a shot. So very sadly cat shore leave wasn’t going to be on the cards.
Reminds me of a panto I once designed
Mick swept the chimney and cleaned the stove out before relighting the fire. I prepared a beef and beetroot curry, starting it off in the oven. We think the thermostat has got problems in the main oven, after an hour the curry had dried out and starting to burn around the edges. More water was added and it was then moved to on top of the stove to carry on cooking slowly. A very nice meal in the end with enough left over for a meal in a day or two.
0 locks, 3.3 miles, 5677 yards underground, 2nd boat moving on the HNC (excluding trip boats), 2 volunteers 1 cat in amongst the washing, 1 sodden cushion, 1 soggy pair of pants, 1 wave to a nephew, 3rd time, 1 flight ahead closed, 90 minutes in the dark, 0 3rd edition wanted, 1 much better day than yesterday.
For my 65th birthday my sister Marion and her husband John bought me a trip around the Isle of Wight on the paddle steamer PS Waverley. My 65th birthday was in 2023 and the trip was booked for September that year. We had a mooring booked for Oleanna in Lincoln Marina and were all ready to go. Three or four days before the event the cruise was cancelled due to forecast high winds in the Solent and the Channel. So it got re-arranged for a year later.
PS Waverley in Scotland. Photo credit my sister Anne
Also in Scotland
These two photos were taken by my sister Anne who lives in Helensburgh and sees the Waverley regularly.
Built in 1946, the Waverley took day trippers around the Firth of Clyde and nearby sea lochs until she was retired in 1973. She was then purchased by the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society for the princely sum of £1, restored to her original 1947 appearance and put back into service. She now carries out an extensive summer timetable of passenger excursions, calling at many seaside piers and ports around the British coast. Here is a link to her website https://waverleyexcursions.co.uk/ . She is the last passenger carrying seagoing paddle steamer in the world.
Oleanna was moored in Macclesfield. I left Pip and Tilly in charge and headed off to the railway station for a direct train to Southampton. The train I was booked on was cancelled. However I had noticed this when I checked online that morning and caught a train leaving an hour earlier. I arrived in Southampton four and a half hours later and walked to our hotel. I met Marion and John in the bar and we elected to eat in the hotel restaurant. Then an early night as we needed to be up and away by nine in the morning.
After breakfast we walked to the station to catch an excursion bus to take us into the port of Southampton to the cruise liner quay. There was the little PS Waverley moored in between two huge passenger cruise ships. We were welcomed aboard and found some seats outside on the top deck.
Waverley. View from the bus
Shuttle bus from the station
Time to set off. The crew let go the forward rope and the Waverley went into reverse gear. The bow moved away from the wharf whilst the stern was held by the still attached stern rope. We use this procedure on Oleanna sometimes if things are a bit tight or if it’s windy. We call it a “Reverse Andy”. Then the stern rope was let go and the Waverley did a 180 degree turn with the assistance of a tug and headed off down Southampton Water, the tug keeping alongside us for a while.
Ecorted by the tug
Looking backwards towards Southampton. Cruise liners behind.
There were a few yachts around and a couple of motor cruisers to keep us company, people on board taking photos of us.
On approach to Portsmouth we slowed right down and a pilot boat came alongside from astern. We needed a pilot to get into the port of Portsmouth. A rope ladder was thrown over the side and the pilot stepped onto it and climbed aboard.
The Waverley’s normal berth at The Hard, next to Portsmouth Harbour station wasn’t available today so we headed further into the port past the Naval Dockyard. Both the UK’s aircraft carriers, HMS Queen Elizabeth and HMS Prince of Wales, were at home base moored next to each other. There were also five destroyers there too. A couple of tug boats came to join us, one in front and one behind, and escorted us to the continental ferry port where a berth was available for us. We came to a halt a few metres from the side and the tugs pushed us gently in to moor alongside. Throwing lines were thrown to the waiting staff on the dockside and the main ropes followed. The ropes were arranged in what we on Oleanna call “innies” (as opposed to “outies”).
HMS Queen Elizabeth and HSM Prince of Wales
There were four bus loads of Portsmouth passengers to board. This took some time so we went down below to the café for some lunch. On the menu was fish and chips, macaroni cheese and chicken jalfrezi. I had the fish and chips.
Normally on the Isle of Wight cruise the Waverley calls at Ryde and Yarmouth. But these ports weren’t available today. There is unofficial speculation that this is because in the past the Waverley has had a “hard landing” there so the Isle of Wight ferry company has banned her from docking at its ferry berths.
Isle of Wight ferry
We set off round the island in a clockwise direction. John was pleased about this because the last time he did this trip they went anti-clockwise, so this gave him a chance to unwind!
I went to have a look at the engine. It is oil fired, converted from coal in 1956. It is a Triple expansion steam engine (of course!). The engine room, and indeed many features of the ship, reminded me of the “Castles”: the Humber ferries I used to go on as a child when visiting my Grandma in Hull. They too were paddle steamers, built in the 1930s.
Steam Engine
Engine
We stayed not far off the coast of the island, taking in the views of the various towns and villages on the way. Portsmouth to Ryde ferries crossed our path. I wished that I had brought our hand held VHF radio to listen to any communications taking place. This would have been especially interesting while coming into Portsmouth, listening in to the pilots and the tug boats.
Once we rounded the easternmost tip of the island at Bembridge we turned west and into the breeze. The top deck got chilly and extra layers were put on. We sailed close to Sandown and Shanklin, sounding the ships horn as we passed Sandown Pier. It was The Waverly’s farewell goodbye for the season. A loud deep throated steam driven horn, I thought it would be good to have one like that on Oleanna.
Marion and John
We passed Ventnor then St Catherine’s Point, the most southerly point and the headwind picked up further. The sea got lumpier too. I don’t think Pip would have enjoyed this bit of the journey. It was choppy for an hour or so. It was really quite cold so we went downstairs to the bar and enjoyed cups of tea and slices of cake. There were some in the bar that looked a bit like they had been there all day!
Cake!
Bar
Approaching The Needles, the most westerly point of the voyage, and suitably refreshed we went back to the top deck. Obligatory photos were taken. The lighthouse was first constructed in 1859 and automated in 1994. There was a rocket testing base at The Needles where ICBM rocket engines were tested. It closed in 1971. Up until then it was a secret. It is now a National Trust property.
The Needles
Now heading east again and the wind was behind us. Past Hurst Castle on the mainland. This is the narrowest point of the Solent where we passed a tanker ship coming the other way.
It was a lovely trip along the north coast. Passing Yarmouth we had to avoid a Lymmington to Yarmouth ferry. We carried eastwards along the Solent, passing Cowes and Osborne House, Queen Victoria’s prefered holiday residence.
After a while we were approaching Portsmouth again. Again we slowed to pick up a pilot, the pilot himself taking pictures of the Waverley before he boarded. We then turned into Portsmouth, past the navy ships and two tugs again came to assist in docking.
Tug. Pushing rather than tugging.
This was the final destination of the day for the Waverley, she was going to stay overnight here then the next day head off on her last South Coast voyage of the season, to Swanage and return. There were buses laid on to pick us up. A couple of buses took some passengers just the short distance to the ferry port terminal. Then they returned to take us to The Hard, near where John had parked the car. A third bus would take people who wanted to return to Southampton railway station. We had to make sure we got on the right bus otherwise we would end up in the wrong place.
Then back in the car to Marion and John’s home in Eastbourne in time for a nightcap and bed.
A great day out! Maybe next year we’ll do a Scottish trip on The Waverley’s home waters.
Quarter of an hour earlier than of late we managed to push off, a small achievement but at least it was in the right direction.
Trees trees trees
Once down the Marple flight the Peak Forest Canal is just flat, there are two tunnels and a lift bridge for a bit of interest, but no locks. We pootled along, tunnel mode engaged for Hyde Bank Tunnel all 308 yards of it. I then bobbed below to give Tilly’s pooh box a refresh as I could tell she was desperate to go, wanted to use shore based facilities, wouldn’t be allowed onto the outside, her pooh box smelt! I can tell these things easier now I spend half an hour every day at her level on the floor!
A touch of autumnal knitting at the stern as we made our way along the tree lined canal. At Woodley Tunnel a Dad was cycling with his two kids along the towpath which goes through the tunnel. His daughter wasn’t peddling, just pushing herself along with both feet, making her Dad’s progress behind quite difficult. As soon as we passed there was no light in the tunnel and the daughter really wasn’t happy! I’m not sure how Dad coped with it all, I suspect the easiest way would have been to reverse out of the tunnel, but his son was way ahead. I hope next time they’ll equip their bikes with lights!
A rounder O would have helped
Past Joseph Adamson and Co, Est 1885. I wonder if originally they had planned for a rounder O than was used Or was the company actually Jo Seph Adamson and Co?
Under a couple of roving bridges. One with metal sides. Going under this it looked like the bridge has been expanded several times, I think we counted five different archways
Under the M67
The next bridge was under the M67, I think this is just about as close as we can get to Fallowfield where my nephew Josh is currently living at Manchester University. 5.3 miles as the crow flies.
Lifted just enough to get under
Who would wind up the lift bridge? I remember doing so on a hire boat, this I’m pretty sure would have been the first lift bridge I ever worked, unless I got the job on the Llangollen way back when! First thing was to remember what would be needed to unlock it, a handcuff key, not a Key of Power! I remember making the same mistake last time. 31 turns up and 21 down, it was hard work, maybe I’m loosing all my windlass lasspower.
I suppose it’ll do!
We pulled in a short distance on, enough outside before the drop down to the River Tame for Tilly to have some shore leave and not too close to the railway bridge. Before sitting down for lunch I gave the nettles along the bank a trim, intentions to do more to the grabrail.
Over lunch it decided to rain, this along with the bank not being right alongside Oleanna put me off getting the attachment of doom out to grind back the rusty bits. I just hope that I get a suitable mooring and suitable weather to get more done to them and the mushroom vent before too long.
Ashton Old Baths
A walk up to Lidl then Asda to do a ‘just in case’ Sunday roast shop and to buy a newspaper in the wet kept us busy. Three buildings caught our attention. The first not very architecturally significant, Ashton Primary Care Centre. This is where nine years ago a lovely nurse practitioner redressed my missing finger despite them not being allowed to do such things.
What lies inside the old baths
Next was Ashton Old Baths. Opened in the 1870s, Ashton Old Baths is one of the finest example of a former public swimming baths in the North of England. The building has housed concerts, held tennis matches and closed in 1975, the building remained derelict for 40 years until Tameside Council and Oxford Innovation decided to reinvent the space for the digital age. It’s a grand Victorian building from the outside, inside it holds a wooden pod. More info can be found here.
Cavendish Mill
The other building is Cavendish Mill a former cotton spinning mill. It was built between 1884 and 1885 to a fireproof design and was the first mill in Ashton to be built with concrete floors and a flat roof. What stands out though is it’s octagonal staircase around the base of the chimney. The mill ceased spinning cotton in 1934, then was used for various purposes until it was converted into housing in 1994.
0 locks, 6.4 miles,1 lift bridge, 2 tunnels, 1 great looking outside, 1 mediocre outside, 2 many woofers, 1 plan postponed, 1 Sunday roast purchased just in case, 1 dormant pizza boat neighbour.
A late morning waking up, it must have been all that sea air. No time for a cuppa in bed, we’d places to go, a new outside to tie up for Tilly. But it was raining! It had been dry virtually all the time Mick was away, now it just rains! Radar checked, it might be dry by 11:30. Time to edit more socks.
Old Hovis Mill
By 11:45 we were bored of waiting and made ready to push off, full winter waterproofs today, have to say I prefer my padded waterproof trousers , my summer ones need replacing. Through a couple of bridges to the water point by the C&RT yard. Here we could also empty the yellow water into our big container ready for an elsan. It rained.
Now how far would we get along the summit pound. Our aim was not far from Marple, but would we last that long? Thankfully the rain started to ease and with a locker lid mopped down I had somewhere to sit down.
Lovely bridge
One boat on the Macclesfield pontoon with a git gap in front of it! The pontoon isn’t straight so maybe they didn’t feel the need to nudge up as maybe there wouldn’t be enough room for one behind. Onwards towards Bollington. Under Bridge 29, a roving bridge which is always picturesque even if you can’t fit it all in the frame. Up on the hillside I could see a tower, I zoomed in. WC in it’s brickwork at the top a little white door next to it. Just what could it be. Mick checked the OS map and nothing was obvious. Was it a folly, a water tower, a ventilation shaft, a toilet?
What is it?
On an old 1923 map the hillside shows several quarries and Turret Cottages, the tower had turrets. The cottages, now three, used to be two cottages, a smithy and an explosives store. More info can be found on the Happy Valley website Sadly I can’t find anything about the tower.
Click photo for details
Under Bridge 28. The house right by the bridge for sale. This is where the Bollington zoo commences. Giant turtles, Crocodiles, Gorilla, a Panda and her baby, Giraffes everywhere if you look hard enough through the town.
Opposite the Adelphi Mill is Bollington Wharf the home to NB Alton the coal boat. Paul must have just stoked the back cabin stove as it wasn’t being a very good advert for the smokeless fuel! We waved and said hello to Brian and Ann-Marie busy filling the back of a van with 20 litres containers of red diesel, these most probably headed to boats in the area but not reachable on Alton.
Clarence Mill
The embankment would have had room for just one more boat, but we weren’t anywhere near ready to stop for the day. Earlier in the year the embankment sprung a leak. Clay was puddled a couple of times to stop the water escaping. New stop planks sit close to bridges either end of the embankment, just in case.
Curves on an angle
Past Clarence Mill where we slightly spooked a hire boat coming towards us. Then on under the wonderful Sugar Lane Bridge 26, built on a skew but retaining all the curvy attributes of the Macclesfield Bridges.
Past Lime View Marina. Would the same boats still be there? Was there still a phone in a pramhood, yes! The hedge alongside the towpath a touch too leafy to be able to see across towards Stockport. At last the Blue Boat, NB Jubilee Bridge whom we’d met on the Huddersfield Narrow back in our yellow days on NB Lillyanne.
That’s my Boat!
Hang on! That boat, it’s mine! Well it’s got my name on it. Handy size for a theatre designers studio and it has a stove too. I wonder how many feet long it is? Wouldn’t need the outboard if we towed it. Hmmm.
Click photo
A modern house is for sale overlooking the canal on the way into Poynton. A boat had just pulled up on the water point, taking their time in tying up. We wanted to drop off our rubbish, hoping that the bins were still there on the way to the car park. They were. So was the little conveyor belt in Bailey’s Trading Post that we’d seen back in 2020. Three boats nestled together behind the arched bridge at Braidbar Boats, two new boats being fitted out for excited boaters, the other we’ve seen about.
Exciting times for someone
The wind was building up, rain couldn’t be far behind. Should we pull in opposite the moorings where the Del Boy boat now resides. The fencing now just about Tilly proof would stop her from getting lost for hours, but might not leave her with enough interest. Onwards that bit further and a space showed itself before Bullocks Bridge. We slotted in playing dog shit hopscotch as we tied up.
One job left to do, light the stove, we’d gradually got colder and colder outside, time to get Oleanna all cosy again.
Obligatory
I mastered some popcorn bobbles on pair 39 of my socks, these look a touch like autumnal berries. Unfortunately when I’d got so far with this pair I’d checked my gauge and it all seemed a touch too big, so I’d reduced my stitch count to four less. Now it was finished it seemed to have shrunk! I should have stuck to my instinct and kept the extra 4 stiches. Well at least it will allow me to add in a red line or two to help tie in the berries better when I re-knit the first sock tomorrow!
0 locks, 8.3 miles, 1 hour short of planned mooring, 1 full water tank, 1 Pip boat, 1 better than expected day, 2 hours, only 1 taken, 1 Tilly proof fence, 20 x 20 litres, 1 smoking boat.
Baron’s Quay to Bramble Cuttings, Trent and Mersey Canal
Fog! Who ordered FOG!!!
No choice, we needed to move today. Thankfully as we pootled down to the lift waiting mooring the skies started to clear, still grey but not cloud filled. Tied up half an hour before our booking we could see the caissons were on the move, the chap up top could be seen chatting to a boat that had just gone up, it took ages before we saw the hat of a boater moving towards the aqueduct towards the canal.
Boat Lift
A C&RT person walked round to see us. A few instructions to follow when we got into the lift, and they were ready for us. Round and into the caisson, stern rope tied up, engine off. Time to chat whilst two boats came in from above into the other caisson. Today was the lift operators first day going solo. Having just finished three years at University they were hunting for a job, had worked on the trip boat before and now was working part time on the lift. The occasional glance at a sheet of paper to make sure everything was being done in the right order.
I wonder if the spiders prefer the gate being up or down?
This morning the caisson we were in had had a slight problem. The gates that open to let boats in and out have shot bolts that hold them in place when they are open to boats, one set of them hadn’t been working properly.
They are a safety device, so should anything happen to the winches that move the gates the bolts will hold the gate in place. Anyone who’s ever worked back stage at the SJT will understand this problem very well, as the Round stage is a big lift and every now and again the shot bolts would need a good old hit with a hammer!
Once the two boats were in the other caisson, water drained out from the gap between the gates behind us, we were good to go. That slight judder and we were on our way up.
When originally built in 1875, the lift was operated with hydraulics, water from the River Weaver was used in it’s operation. The caisson going up would be drained just slightly to make it lighter than the other one. The heavier caisson would then sink pushing the water into the other side of the hydraulics and push the lighter caisson up. However the water being used was full of salt from the river and the pipes corroded. In 1882 one of the cast iron hydraulic cylinders burst whilst a boat was at canal level, the caisson descended rapidly, but thankfully water escaping the cylinder slowed the descent and the water filled dock at river level softened the impact!
Cogs right at the top
The hydraulics were replaced by winches above the caissons, extra structure was added to the lift to cope with the extra weight. The winches lifted and dropped the caissons powered by electricity. The conversion happened over two years , but the lift was only closed for 49 days, reopening fully in 1908.
The shiny pole is the hydraulic ram that pushes the caisson up
This worked for quite some time, but commercial boat traffic declined and rust set in. In 2000 major refurbishment was carried out, new hydraulics installed and this is how it works today. The caissons can be moved individually, we think that is what happened 13 years ago, but it is actually cheaper to use both caissons whether there are boats in them or not, the counterbalance meaning they use less electricity. To book your boat on the lift it costs £5. It takes three members of staff to work the lift and if it wasn’t for the trip boat the lift would loose hundreds of pounds a day.
Next year is the boat lifts 150th anniversary. After the summer season it will close again for some more restoration, closing it for 12 to 18 months.
As we reached the top, the lift slows down for the last foot or so. The operator at the top greeted us and gave us our instructions. Once the lift had come to a stop, the gap between gates was filled with water, then the gates open, we move onto the aqueduct. Gate close behind.
Then the gate onto the canal can open. A thumbs up from by the bridge meant the way ahead was clear. A turn right, the only way you can turn out from the lift and we were back on the T&M.
Us
Rubbish needed disposing of so we pulled in behind a boat that had just started filling up with water. I said we were only there to use the bins, ‘They’re getting rid of them!’ came the response. Well this was correct and wrong at the same time. The bin compound as we talked was being dismantled, the biffa bins already gone. However the new skip is there and replacing the bins. Once the compound has been dismantled the skip will be positioned where the bins once were.
Compound being dismantled
We got chatting to the C&RT chap who was wielding a hammer and saw dismantling the bin compound. Recently there have been occasions when one bin was full and someone had put their rubbish bags by that bin, another two bins were empty. Other boaters arrived and just assumed the bins were full and left their rubbish on the floor too. This escalated until Biffa refused to empty the bin as they couldn’t get to it. There is also frequent use by non boaters as a lot of the local tips are now either closed or you are limited in your use. The pump out also gets misused, a new end to the sucky pipe costs in the region of £1000 every time. He said that the services here were ‘this close to being closed for good’ due to misuse.
More power station
Onwards, now on the flat, retracing ourselves along the long pound. At the power station progress was obvious from a week ten days ago. A fifth fan had been added to the sci-fi Swiss chalet structure. We counted the cranes, many different sizes, now 12 of them.
Hi Andy, Nichola and Jez
The sun was out, time to take off our precautionary waterproofs. Was that bow who we thought it was? Were those notes on the bow? A quick exchange of hellos with Andy on NB On A Fiddle, Nichola down below as we passed them.
All mine!
Time to hope for a space at Bramble Cuttings. At 2pm would there be space? Yes! we had the whole mooring to ourselves! A perfect shore leave location for Tilly. I stepped inside gave her the rules and opened the doors straight away, 4 hours! Yeh yeh!
A late lunch for us and self catering for Tilly. With the weather due to be fine for the next few days it was time to attend to a leaking mushroom vent and whilst I was at it scrape off all the rust along the port side grabrail and gunnel! Gosh there was plenty! I also spotted a couple more little bits where the grabrail had caught in Froghall Tunnel.
Mick got busy in the engine bay, an oil change. Tilly was just BUSY!
Down the hole!
Soon we got another neighbour who pulled up right at the far end, no woofer visible. Then an hour later a second boat came in to moor. Mick chatted to the chap and I miss heard thinking it was a boat we’d met a few days ago with a woofer, but there was no dog. Tilly could continue with her shore leave in safety much to the dislike of the squirrels.
Fertanned
Once the worst of the rust had been scraped off, a couple of patches on the cabin side too unfortunately, my knee was starting to complain. I’d really have liked to given things a go over with the attachment of doom, but that would take too long and it also felt wrong to do it at Bramble Cuttings. So instead everything got a coat of Fertan rust inhibitor. Hopefully that will stop things from getting worse before I can attack it again. As it was a lovely warm afternoon I dug out a spray bottle and filled it with water so I could keep the Fertan damp, helping it to do it’s job for longer.
Hooray!!!
Tilly had had a very good afternoon. Plenty of trees climbed and lots of pouncing. I’d had to rescue a few friends and then did my best to persuade Tilly to come in for her dingding. I could tell she was tired as she was doing that belligerent toddler thing of I’m not tired! Look I can do this and walk away from you. This tree hasn’t been climbed yet, so I’ll just do that first. She soon gave in, came inside, had a lick of her dingding and flaked out.
One lovely sunset too
0 locks, 1 boat lift, 9.3 miles, 1 right, 2 many patches of rust, 9.5 litres oil, 4 whole hours! 1 big pan on the roof, pair 37 yarn selected, 12 Mrs Tilly stamp of approval.
Blind mans stretch to Winsford to Vale Royal Visitor Moorings
Some shore leave for Tilly as we did our morning routine, she was gone for quite a while but returned before we’d finished breakfast, the doors firmly closed behind her. Time to move on, we’d got the rest of the Weaver to cruise even though it would have been nice to be moored up for a day. Boats had already started going past, NB Lyndsey Jane had pulled onto the pontoon below the boat lift. As we rounded the next bend she could be seen winding and heading back to go up the lift, their time on the river over.
Back to Northwich
We soon caught up with a boat ahead of us, this was Sabrina on her electric boat. She pulled into the moorings in Northwich, there was chance to say a hello, we were carrying on.
Mick tried calling ahead to Hunts Lock. We had two phone numbers, neither of them worked! We’d have to hope someone would see us. First we were to cruise past Northwich dry dock. Here many old boats are moored, including Tyseley, Mikron’s boat, there were also several boats that used to moor in Stone. Two boats sat high up on a sideways slip (not sure what they are called) and boats were most probably in the dry dock under the viaduct which is reached from above Hunts Lock.
Approaching Hunts Lock
Activity could be seen at the lock, this and Vale Royal Lock are both manually operated, lots of handles to turn just like the clown at the end of Camberwick Green. A boat was coming down, perfect.
Our turn, we passed our rope up to the Lock Keeper, he tied it round a bollard and then as we rose up he passed it back down. Mick mentioned about the phone number not working. Apparently there had been a problem with the mobile used at the lock so a new sim had been got, this came with a new number. At the lift we were meant to be given a leaflet, I suspect they’d not bothered as it would have disintegrated in the rain last Sunday. We checked the number, his phone rang. He’d let Vale Royal Locks know we were on our way.
£400,000 click photo for details
The Lock Cottage with it’s immaculate hedge is for sale, it comes with a mooring and it’s garden reaches the end of the lock island.
Now we passed old boat yards on the west bank, several boats sat out on the hard, some under cover. A couple of old fire engines too and a wooden boat shrouded under weather torn tarpaulins.
The number of boats along here has thinned out from 13 years ago, we remember quite big ships.
Is it really round here?
At Vale Royal Locks the lock was waiting for us, we just couldn’t see it as it was tucked in between the bigger lock and a weir that was bobbing us about. Rope passed up, gates wound closed behind us and up we came. Here our discussion about locks with swing bridges over them continued. We are now up to 8 locks with this layout across the system, we’ve been through all of them except Jesus Lock on the River Cam.
We might come back to there
Now the top reach of the river to cruise. We passed a nice stretch of moorings soon after the lock, a good amount of space should we want to come back to it.
The oldest working mine in the country
What was that up ahead? An enclosed pit head? Yep Winsford Rock Salt Mine. A Looooooong conveyor stretched along the bank of the river to one of those salt igloo shaped buildings. It produces on average 1,500,000 tonnes of rock salt a year, used to grit roads in the winter months. The mine was first opened up in 1844, a down turn in the rock salt market forced it to close in 1892 but it reopened in 1928 when another mine near by was subject to flooding. The mine has over 160 miles of tunnels and still has reserves that are estimated to be able to last until 2076. In some of the empty tunnels documents are stored, the National Achieve have over 20 miles of storage.
Mounds of spoil or is it rock salt line the banks, behind trees more industrial units hide. Then the first mooring at Winsford showed itself, sadly with a burnt out narrowboat on it. Under the two bridges then round to the right then a hand break turn into the small basin which faces out onto the flash. We held back as a boat reversed out, then we tried mooring on the side away from the car park, but would have needed long legs to reach the bank. The other side was better and we settled down for a late lunch.
Winsford Flash
Some supplies to see us back to at least Middlewich were needed. The nearest supermarket Morrisons. Only down side was that we seemed to have to cross what felt like a bypass several times. We avoided it by staying on the river, but then had to cross at the next bridge to find a crossing where we’d not be run over. Another dice with death at a round about, Winsford is not intended for pedestrians!
We hadn’t realised we’d been off CRT water
We quickly made a decision that our mooring might be noisy this evening. Several vans were parked up and it had the look of a good place for deals to be done, add to that the number of geese and swans, it could end up being quite a noisy night. Oleanna was backed out, winded and we returned to the nice stretch of moorings above Vale Royal Locks, sadly after cat curfew!
This morning I’d started to write yesterdays blog, I finished it at lunchtime, just needed to be proof read. I logged in to do so, only to find three quarters of the post had vanished! The IT department couldn’t find it, I always click save, it just hadn’t! How annoying now I’ll have to write it all again!
2 locks, 11.6 miles, 1 U turn, 1 flash not investigated, 2 wrong phone numbers, 1 right one noted, 160 miles, 3 speedy roads, 43 swans, 25 geese, 1 cuddly toy goose, 1 slice of white sliced on our solar, 0 cat shore leave, 1 lovely mooring, 0.75 blog post vanished.
Devil’s Garden to Runcorn and Western Canal Junction to Marsh Lock
Tilly awarded the Devil’s Garden a stamp of approval this morning despite it peeing it down for most of her shore leave. A boat we’d passed yesterday came past and pulled in next to the other boat on the field. This is such a lovely mooring, hope we have time to stop here again on our way back.
There’s a devil out there!
A lull in rain gave us the impetus to push off at 11:30am. The chap who’d pulled in asked if we’d got a brolly, well on Sunday we discovered our brolly was destined for the bin! It wouldn’t have helped today as it was very windy plus we were heading into the wind!
There they go
Soon we came across a rowing eight and rescue boat, everyone as soggy as we were. They had soon turned and could be seen gaining on us. Their cox wasn’t altering their course any and they were destined to meet with our stern fender. What to do? Hold our course, they were still gaining on us! Mick decided to pull over to our port and slowed down with the aim of them continuing straight on. This didn’t work as they also slowed right down and looked at one point as if they were about to turn again and head up stream. We carried on returning to the correct side of the river, after a while they came past us to port.
Here they come again
There was a space at the end of the moorings at Sutton Swing Bridge, but we wanted to continue further today despite the rain, maybe we’d stop here on the way back.
Daniel Adamson
On the other side of the bridge sat the Daniel Adamson, were they on the water point? We spotted a pontoon just after them and pulled in to dispose of our rubbish. This is the boats home mooring, hooked up and filling with water. A chap came and asked if we’d like a look round. Silly question! Of course we would. A cruise on the Danny was on the list of possible things to do for Mick’s 60th birthday a few years ago.
The Danny (originally named the Ralph Brocklebank) is a steam tug which was built in 1903 in Birkenhead. She was built to pull long strings of barges laden with goods from Cheshire and the Potteries to Liverpool. She also carried passengers between Ellesmere Port and Liverpool this continued until 1915. During WW1 she had a short stint for the Royal Navy patrolling around the Liverpool coast.
Ropes
She was purchased by the Manchester Ship Canal in 1922 for over £3000, she still towed barges and carried passengers along the Ship Canal including VIPs around the inland docks. In 1936 she was given a radical refit was renamed after the Ship Canals chairman Daniel Adamson. The wheelhouse and bridge were raised, she got an upper deck and two saloons. The interior decor was done by Heaton Tabb and Co who were owned by Harland Wolff Ltd and had worked on the grandest of Atlantic liners. The interior was renovated in the modern Art Deco style.
Curves
Trade on the ship canal and the docks changed through the following decades. With the rise in container ships Manchester docks could not compete and were closed in 1982. The Danny was retired and in 1986 she was towed to Ellesmere Port Boat Museum where she’d started out her life 83 years earlier.
Her upkeep dropped, she fell into disrepair due to funding cuts, she was vandalised and set fire to. By 2004 she was earmarked for the scrap, but word got round, and Mersey Tug Skipper Dan Cross set up the Daniel Adamson Preservation Trust and soon he’d bought her for £1 from the Ship Canal. By 2015 the Heritage Lottery Fund had awarded the trust £3.8 million to restore her to full working order, by which time volunteers had already given over 1000 hours of their time.
Beautiful woodwork
Gordon showed us round, what a treat. The saloons were restored to how they would have been in 1936 with beautiful wood, glowing with warmth, graceful curves and deco steps.
Fancy
The steps up to the bridge have brass fretwork on them. The wheel is the original still with steam powered steering. The love for this boat shone through as Gordon told us the history.
The boiler has three fires
We’d noticed the standard hose pipe to the water point. It takes them three days to fill their tank and tonnes of water is needed as ballast! She has a coal fired boiler and the volunteers are now grateful that the coal arrives in bags as they have ten tonnes to shift at a time and get into the holds.
Steam powered steering
Mick asked how she was to steer. Gordon’s reply was ‘Pig comes to mind!’ From the bridge you can’t see the bow due to the canopy over the deck below, so they use the Jack mast to steer by. Four turns of the wheel, then you wait to see what she’s doing before you have to compensate.
Not only does the water tank take three days to fill, but it also takes that time for her to get up to steam for a trip. If she’s moving two days in a row firemen have to stay on board overnight to keep the fires going.
Thank you Gordon
Thank you so much Gordon for showing us round, what an unexpected treat when only wanting to dispose of our rubbish.
Chemicals
Under the M56 and onwards towards the Ship Canal. Blimey it was getting windier and windier. Now we cruised past the start of Koura Global a massive chemical works, followed by INEOS more chemical works. This continued on right up to Weston Lock where the Weaver navigation meets the Manchester Ship Canal and the River Weaver. We then turned to follow the navigation to the north for about another mile still accompanied all the time by chemical works.
Last lock on the Runcorn and Western Canal
Along here a narrow strip of land keeps the navigation from the ship canal, we couldn’t see it from onboard Oleanna sadly. At the far end the current navigation stops at Weston Point. Here there used to be three sets of locks.
Six inch 1888-1915 map
One towards the Ship Canal to the west. A lock to the north which led to another two locks and then out onto the Ship Canal. Then to the east a lock up onto the Runcorn and Western Canal which finally led to the flight of locks up to Runcorn. The bottom lock gates of the later lock are still visible, today with a heron guarding them.
A rare moment of sunshine after we’d winded
We’d heard that it might be possible to bang spikes in here, but we couldn’t work out where. So instead winded and headed back to Marsh Lock where there is a pontoon. We’d been warned the other day that the pontoon has lost it’s access to the bank. Mick later in the afternoon managed to haul himself up onto the bank and go to have a look at the lock and across to the Ship Canal, the Mersey not far away either.
Marsh Lock looking out onto the Ship Canal
White horses and rain continued for the majority of the day. Tilly resided herself to sitting in front of the stove. I joined her to do some knitting. News came through later today that Hunts Lock on the Weaver has been successfully repaired and is now open for navigation. An adjustment of cruising hours now required to reach the other end too in the time we have.
Our mooring for tonight
0 locks, 6.4 miles, 1 swing bridge, 2 pairs of gloves, 1 guided tour, 1930s deco, 3 days for water, 3 days to get enough steam, 10 tonne coal, 1 stove lit, 1 cosy cat, 1 very wet and blustery day.
Northwich 2 day Visitor Moorings to above Saltersford Lock
With all the rain yesterday we both were checking the river levels this morning. The Northwich reach had actually gone down, but above and below had risen, obviously there had been someone lifting sluices on weirs to control things.
A little bit of extra time was used to start catching up on the blog. It takes time, usually whilst having breakfast, but on longer more interesting days (well more interesting for me) it can take a while longer. Certainly sifting through photos eats up time. Plus early starts to cruising limits writing time, so I had a lot to catch up today.
Town Bridge
Time to stock up on food for a few days. The nearest supermarket is Waitrose so we went to see what yellow stickers there might be.
Crossing Town Bridge we noticed the different gates at either end. On the west bank is a sliding gate that crosses the road to stop traffic, on the east side there are two gates that hinge closed. Then the bridge would be able to swing to allow taller boats to pass through. The bridge was opened in 1899, designed by J.A.Saner and was the first road swing bridge on floating pontoons and the first electrically operated swing bridge in Britain. In 1924 it was closed for several months for repairs and strengthening during the period known as the Northwich ‘big lift’ when buildings and roads were raised to combat subsidence. In 1998 further works were undertaken, the bridge being lifted off and put in a car park for repair. A crane was brought in which had been used to build the Millenium Dome, but the weight of the Town Bridge at 330 tonnes and was too heavy for the crane.
Winding
Back on board we had lunch before pushing off, we wanted to find a mooring for Tilly. Mick winded Oleanna, a lady watched from the marina and congratulated him on his expertise, then we were heading down stream back towards the boat lift. The new pontoon was even more chock a block than yesterday, NB Lyndsey Jane’s stern sticking out around someone’s bow fender. The pontoon below the boat lift on the other hand had lots of space, but we wanted a better mooring still, no pontoon would suit us, and Tilly better.
Under Town Bridge
Yesterday the flag at the boat lift had hung down, not a breath of wind to go with the rain, today it was dry but blustery. Waterway Routes showed us three possible moorings around a bend downstream of the lift. We passed a weir guarded over by cormorants and under another swing bridge.
The lift looking drier today
The first mooring had potential, we’d have been on our own. The second the bank was a touch higher, more difficult for me. The third was longer and lower, already with two boats moored, but with bollards, grassy field and bunny potential above it, this would do. We winded to face the current and pulled in, positioning ourselves in the middle away from the other boats, but space for two more to pull in either side of us.
Winnington Swing Bridge
Rules given, the doors were opened. Hmmm! It would be good if I didn’t have to share this outside with woofers! I’m not sure Tilly even made it into the field above, at least she had some outside time.
A weir and sluice gate
I managed to get up to date with the blog during the afternoon. Then our attention turned to our cruising plan for the rest of this year. Today a notice regarding the Huddersfield Narrow had looked promising, this route would cut down the miles of our cruise back to Yorkshire, but would our current set up work there? I’ve never had to clear the prop on Oleanna, in fact I’ve never actually cleared a prop on any boat! Would I even be able to reach the prop to clear it? This is one question that needs answering before committing to going over the HNC.
I’m not too sure about it here!
Ease of transport links are important over the next six weeks as appointments and engagements need to be met at different ends of the country. We also want to meet up with good friends and need to give them an estimate of where we might be. Having three possible routes is making this really quite tricksy. I think tomorrow we’ll need to knuckle down and make some decisions.
0 locks, 3.2 miles, 2 winds, 1 straight on, 2 boxes wine, 1 outside rejected, 2 loose ropes, 0.7m, 3 ways, but which one to go for?
Well that new detector! It’s position on the ceiling directly over my head whilst in bed was a problem last night. Around the big test button is a ring of green light which flashes every 30 seconds or so. All detectors tend to flash, but this one was SO BRIGHT that it felt like the aliens were invading. Yes I tried turning over and I did have my eyes closed but the light flashed through my eye lids time after time after time! I’m aware that I was awake trying to ignore it for at least two hours, thankfully then I fell asleep.
Byebye, see you again somewhere sometime
We couldn’t be tardy this morning, we’d something to tick of the ‘Next Time’ list. A quick chat with Mike on NB Alchemy before we pushed off. It was really good to be able to meet up, until next time, happy cruising for the remainder of the year.
As it says, Middleport Pottery
A mile and a half to cruise and we pulled in on the visitor moorings at Middleport Pottery, with a booking for Harecastle Tunnel this afternoon we hoped there’d be enough time for us to enjoy the pottery. You can wonder around the site for free, but if you pay then you get to go inside various rooms and workshops, if you pay more you can get to go round the working Burleigh Pottery Factory. We opted for the Heritage Trail. With green stickers and a key fob we could guide ourselves round the pottery.
What a great model
Middleport Pottery was the first pottery to be designed by an architect, the whole process of the factory taken into account with the products flowing through from one area to the next. In came the clay by boat, off loaded, it was cleaned, made ready for which ever process it was destined for, slip for casting, put through a pug mill for Jiggering, Jolleying and pressing into various shapes and patterns. Drying. Biscuit firing in bottle kilns, patterns applied, glazes painted or dipped on, dried again, then into the Glosting bottle kilns for their final firing, then packed up and loaded back onto boats to head of to be sold.
Dane returning with a hold full of people
Here in Stoke they had both clay and coal, the canal alongside aided the more reliable transportation of the finished goods. Dane normally sits outside the pottery, but today it was on a cruise through Harecastle Tunnel. Those on the trip were on board from 10am, we passed them coming back a little after 2pm.
The last remaining bottle kiln
There’s a wonderful model of the factory how it originally was, made in ceramic (what else!) this shows the seven bottle kilns that used to be in the factory. Three for biscuit firing (the ceramics could be stacked close for firing) then four for glost kilns (the ceramics needed more space once glazed so as not to stick together in the firing). When the clean air act came in in 1956 new methods of firing were found, gas taking over from coal, tunnel kilns were developed to save having to stack everything up around a bottle kiln, blocking the door and then lighting fires to raise the temperature to over 1000 degrees. Six of the original bottle kilns were demolished, the one that remains does so as it was a part of another factory building and not stand alone.
Hi there
We saw the old offices. Phones rang as you walked past, if answered you’d get the story of an office worker. We watched a film about the factory processes making all the pottery, then looked at examples of Japonica tea sets, Churchill Toby Jugs, other fancy items.
Rooms now taken over by independent studios
Round past various independent studios we had the opportunity to look round a quarter of the moulds used which had been stored in roof spaces around the factory.
Commemorative plates, Toby Jugs, vases all sorts, an amazing collection of jelly moulds too. A mould could only be used so many times before a new one had to be made from the master.
Looking upwards between the brick walls of a bottle kiln
The Placing House and Bottle Kiln were next. In the placing house Saggers (rough clay containers used to protect the finer pottery whilst in the bottle kiln) were meticulously packed to make the most of the space, then they were carefully positioned in the bottle kiln, piled high one on top of the other right to the top. More delicate items such as plates would be packed nearer the centre of the kiln. Then once full the door would be bricked up and fires lit around the outside of the inner skin of the kiln, ramping up the temperature to a maximum of 1000 to 1250C, this was maintained for two to three hours before the kiln was allowed to cool down. As soon as it was possible to enter the kiln, the men would start to unpack it dressed in many layers to protect them from the heat. Pay was based on the quality of the goods coming out of the kiln, so if a firing went wrong the wages weren’t paid.
Sinks
The bath house has a wonderful line of sinks, just enough room to stand in front of them, no elbow room. A deep deep bath tub sat in another area. Was there just the one between all the workers, or several? During WW2 the bath house was one of eleven areas earmarked as air raid shelters, it could hold 38 of the 500 employees, thankfully the shelters were never needed.
The Lancashire Boiler produced steam to power the steam engine next door which kept many things moving in the factory.
Cuppas
Time for a break and some lunch. We could have had oatcakes, we could have had some Lobby (a beef stew) but we opted for jacket potatoes and a cuppa each obviously in suitable cups. Very nice and better than the potato wedges we’d had at Shugborough a few weeks ago.
Boots
Next we just had time to look round the Lodgekeeper’s House. A two up two down house with projections of people telling stories of their lives in Stoke. Very interesting, but the rooms lacked a little bit in atmosphere.
It was now 2pm time to push off, we’d the tunnel booked for 3pm. We’d enjoyed the pottery, however it still sits on the ‘Next Time’ list as I’d now like to do a factory tour and have a peruse around the independent studio spaces. The seconds factory shop was still WAY too expensive for anything to be purchased. I’m glad that around 30-40 years ago I visited the factory when it was closed and riffled through skips with a friend, we were students at the time. Items that were not too faulty in our eyes were pulled out and later I was allowed to visit my old school and give them all a clear glaze and fire them. Not the most expert job, but it did give me a set of Burleigh ware bowls and various other items which today would have cost me several hundred pounds.
Following
We pushed off. At Westport Lake a hire boat pushed out in front of us. They went slowly, we followed at tick over, would we make it to the tunnel by 3pm? Thankfully yes. They pulled in ahead of us and a Tunnel Keeper came to talk to them. This took quite a long time as their English wasn’t so good, getting them to shine their head light and sound the horn was testing the keepers patience a touch. As soon as he’d decided that they’d understood everything he came to talk to us.
Can you show me your light and sound the horn? Please?
‘Your lucky!’ Why? We’d booked. ‘Your not in the book’. But we booked. I checked the confirmation email. The Tunnel Keeper and Mick were both correct. We had booked and we weren’t in the book for today because Mick had booked our passage for the 11th! We were lucky as someone else had booked and we could tag along behind them, phew!
More head room than at Froghall
We whizzed through our safety briefing and were let into the tunnel a few minutes after the hire boat. Our normal speed would be reduced by their normal speed, go too slowly in a tunnel and you loose your steering and end up biffing the walls. Once we’d cleared the portal the doors closed behind us and the loud drone of the big fans kicked in to help ventilate the tunnel. It took a few hundred meters for us to be able to hear each other again.
Around 50 minutes later we emerged at the Kidsgrove portal. The tunnel Keeper here doing his best to keep a group of school kids off the CRT boat. The kids then turned their attention to us, the usual ‘Can I have a ride Mr, I’ve never been on one before’ ‘How much did it cost?’ ‘I could run and jump onto your boat from here’ We talked to them, suggested it would be a bad idea, hoping that we knew they’d not try, but you never know. They soon walked up the steps towards the station and forgot about us as we did about them.
At the junction
The hire boat had tried turning long before reaching the junction, but managed to get round after a bit of faffing leaving the way ahead clear for us. We dropped down Plant’s Lock 41, the first from the summit pound, and chose where to moor up, easy as we were the only boat in the pound.
Down Plant’s Lock
A visit to Lidl was required, then Mick headed to Tescos for bits Lidl don’t do and to pick up a prescription whilst I set about preparing cruising sustenance for a busy day tomorrow.
1 lock, 5.5 miles, 1 tunnel, 1 pottery finally visited, 0 shore leave AGAIN! 2 jackets, £15 for a 2nds cup, 11th September, 2 lucky boaters, 1 straight on, 1 batch short crust, 1 tin of oaty apple energy, 1 folded bit of card over the flashing green light!
