When we came out to roll up the covers this morning we were soon faced with a line of boats heading towards Banbury. The first one was an Oxfordshire Hire boat with at least seven chaps on board, most probably out for the weekend. We let them pass and waited for the next boat, also a hire boat. Pretty soon it was obvious that the second boat had managed to get a rope around it’s prop, there was lots of tugging going on. How long would they be? Maybe a while. Maybe we should take advantage and pull out. We looked at each other, looked back to the hire boat and the boat behind it and pushed off.
Waiting in line
Aynho Weir Lock is one of two lozenge locks on the Oxford Canal. Above it the river crosses the canal, only a small height difference is needed, (1t 1″) but a normal locks worth of water needs to carry on down the canal to help keep Somerton Deep Lock with enough water. So the lock is wide but not deep so that it can hold all it needs. Unlike at Shipton Weir Lock we’d be hard pressed to share it with another boat so we waited in line for our turn.
Aynho Lock
The chaps worked their boat through, a boat waited above to come down. The boat behind us pulled in to wait their prop no longer fouled, the following boat hovered behind them. A lady walked up from the 50th Birthday hire boat behind, ‘I need to take advantage of any opportunity to keep away from everyone on that boat!’ the boat sleeping 10! I suggested that she also should keep away from us, the poor lady didn’t know where to put herself, she’s not going to have a good weekend!
The weir
I decided to walk up to Nell’s Bridge and the next lock, I normally do this as it’s only 0.5km. Standing still, working locks was just about okay today, but after crossing over the weir vertigo set in, making for a giraffe legged walk.
Nell’s Bridge
Thankfully now the boats were all spaced out so we worked Oleanna up Nell’s Bridge Lock with space around us.
If only!
The Pig Place was busy busy. A bacon butty would have been nice, but we carried onwards our cruising goal not too much further on today. Back in 2019 when we did this stretch, water flowed into the canal from the fields, the towpath just a little higher than both water levels, elsewhere the canal looked like it was topping up the fields. Somerton Meadows had been a lake and Nells Bridge had to be limbo’d under. Today no overflowing fields, plenty of room under bridges.
Sun through the bridge hole
King Sutton Lock (Taver’s Lock), one of the prettiest. The golden stone of the lock cottage, the steps leading up to the lock, the old barn opposite with it’s weathered blue paint and the sun at a low angle. Lovely. Up Oleanna came, time to find a mooring just past where a bridge used to be.
Kings Sutton
Here the toot of trains crossing a footpath can be heard and today because of the direction of the wind we’d be able to hear the M40 for the rest of the day. A restful afternoon whilst Tilly busied herself outside.
Up
A red pepper was sliced in half, put on a baking tray covered in foil and left to roast on the stove top for an hour. This was added to a couple of trout fillets out from the freezer, garlic, spinach, parmesan and cream, accompanied by some rice. We knew it tasted good, just a shame it tasted of nothing! For pudding we had a piece each of chocolate orange, thank goodness that still has some flavour!
Good weathering
3 locks, 3.06 miles, 4 in a queue, 0 bacon, 1 stern rope, 4 hours shore leave, M40, 1 slice of vitamin chocolate each.
Thankfully you don’t have to be awake too early at the moment to see the sunrise. The golden sky warming up a chilly morning and what a wonderful morning, not a cloud in the sky.
180 degrees of sky
It would have been nice to stay an extra day, but there are places to be so no choice.
As we pushed away we waved goodbye to the clumps behind us, one day we’ll walk up there. Then further along the big field we realised that we hadn’t been the only boat moored up last night. At least they were some distance away and this morning we’d have had a much better sunrise.
A Kingfisher darted in front of us, stopping in flight and hovered like a Hummingbird or a Kestrel, it did it a second time, I just managed to get a blurry photo before it then settled down on the bank. We’ve never seen one do this before, maybe it was imitating a Tern and had spotted a possible fish.
Clifton Hamden Bridge
We pootled up stream to Clifton Hamden Bridge with it’s red brick arches. Here we met three paddleboarders who were enjoying the sunshine as they headed upstream. At the lock a volunteer opened the gates for us and waved us in. Here numerous plant pots fill the lock area. The Lock Keeper suggested we should wait for the paddleboarders to arrive which was fine with us, he then carried on moving tubas and bulbs around for winter. What a sight it must be when in full blown colourful flower.
The ladies hung onto the chains on the opposite side of the lock, they were from Culham and had done the loop this morning, presumably dropping down onto the river by the weir a little further up stream.
Sunbathing on the bed
Last year as we waited below Culham lock we watched a Mink hunting on the offside bank, two pigeons met their maker with alarming swiftness. Today there was no queue below the lock, we tied up and I walked up to see the Lock Keeper who was surprised he’d not seen us. Culham is a deep lock and assistance in getting your ropes around the bollards is needed. I was glad we’d not be sharing the lock with the paddleboarders as when that little yellow flag on the top gate starts to rise there is quite a flow around the lock.
Mooo!
Now on the Abingdon reach of the river we discussed where to stop today. A full days cruise in our schedule would have us moor a distance on above Abingdon Lock, but we were already a day ahead of ourselves. Should we stop before the bridge, after or just above the lock? First however we needed to avoid the sailors and fisherman. Both in line with each other, we slowed our pace, hoping we’d not all three be trying to be in the same few meters as each other. The fisherman had to move his long pole and the dinghy crossed in front of us enabling us to pass by with plenty of room to spare.
Fishing and sailing
The first stretch of moorings was fairly busy so we carried on through the bridge pulling in at the first mooring. Here we hoped there’d be less footfall along with some friendly cover close by. Tilly was excited running back and forth inside, only to be disappointed when the doors opened to see the number of walkers with woofers!
Abingdon Bridge
A load of washing was put out to dry, Tilly came and went, paddleboarders (all who seemed to be French) paddled by, a stunning afternoon if you were out in the sunshine. Just a shame we were creating our own shade with both front and back doors open so we had a nice cool breeze through Oleanna!
Having spent much of the afternoon having the aroma of steak and chips wafting in through the back door we decided to eat out this evening. A hunt through menus at various establishments for gf options at a price that wouldn’t break the bank came up with Beefeater, The Brewery Tap. Sadly the Brewery Tap was fully booked this evening. Mick had walked past The Broad Face so we booked there.
Antlers or just plumbing?
Odd decor, either based on a Gentleman’s toilet with all the copper plumbing powering the lights or a butchers with pink fake blossom festooned in the corners. The chap serving us was slightly odd too. I asked if the blue cheese sauce contained gluten, he said he’d ask, if it didn’t would I like it adding to my order? This meant I didn’t actually know if I was getting the sauce until we quizzed him when he came to change our cutlery.
A very nice steak with triple cooked chips, I get get a dribble of sauce too
Having said that, my steak was the best one (other than homecooked) I’ve had since we visited The Paper Mill Inn near Bugsworth Basin nearly six years ago. Mick’s burger was also very good and tasty. Just a shame there was only chilled medication on the dessert menu that I could eat, so instead we headed back to Oleanna to finish off a tub of vanilla from the freezer.
2 locks, 7.12 miles, 3 paddleboarders, 3 boats at Jubilee, 1 perfect day for boating, 1 chilly boat, 1 cautious cat, 1 newspaper, 1 glass wine, 1 pint, 1 burger, 1 steak and chips, 2 many geese and woofers!
Sadly we could only stay one night on Tilly’s birthday island, we need to keep moving, admittedly not far today.
Sunday morning
But first there was time for Mick to rustle up a breakfast and for us to join the Geraghty zoom. The Basingstoke Canal, flights from Barra and the general state of the country were topics today.
We pushed away the island around 11am, passing our nearest neighbours soon afterwards. I wondered who might be staying in Spring Cottage at the moment (£2,750 a night) an extra £50 a night to include breakfast. Or at the cheaper NT run cottages £896 for three nights, no option of breakfast being included there.
You brought it with you, it’s now lighter, so much easier to take home!
We followed a big hire boat up to Cookham Lock where a volunteer saw both boats in and pressed the buttons for us. Mick had picked up a bag of rubbish on the island so we paused to drop it off at the bins above the lock. Why would you parcel up your rubbish and then hide it behind a tree on an island?! We topped up the water tank as a load of washing spun round in the machine and then carried onwards.
Bourne End can be so sunny, it almost feels like a resort as you glide along the wide water.
Sailing dinghy’s raced back and forth, the wind being in the perfect direction for their course today.
Click photo for details
Another house for sale, with a good length of mooring, only £2,750,000.
We paused at a familiar boat, bipped our horn, but only the wagging tail of a dog greeted us today. Next time we’ll make sure we send a message in advance.
Terraced garden
All the big houses climbing up the cliff and pretty boats moored below.
Round the big bend in the river, we spied space on the EA moorings below Marlow Lock and pulled in. We then nudged along in front of one of several boats with overstay notices on their windows. The route to walk up to the lock takes you round the houses a touch, but does give a great view across to Marlow.
Marlow
Only a volunteer on duty as it was lunchtime. Mick ventured back later in the afternoon to check in with the Lockie and see if it was possible for us to stay for two nights instead of just the one. As it was out of season he gave us permission.
Tilly got busy, bringing a friend inside to the warmth! Luckily it turned out to be easy to catch, but when released in the hedgerow it scarpered so quickly it didn’t see which way it was going and ended up in the river. It did swim, so I’m hoping it found somewhere to climb out.
I put together some photos and words for the Panto programme. They wanted a two page spread about the set design process. Lots of photos and a sentence with each one, I suspect I’ve given them too much.
What a lovely mooring it is here, we’ve only stayed by the park above the lock before which is quite busy, just a shame there is constant nose from the road bridge!
1 lock, 5.16 miles, 1 bag of rubbish, 1 tank of water, 1 load washing drying on the whirligig, 2 nights okay, 4 hours shore leave, 0 island, 7 photos, 7 sentences.
Coming round Desborough Island we came across a huge boat, Magna Carte a luxury hotel boat, prices are stated in US dollars a more stable currency at the moment. They must have just come through Shepperton Lock, the bottom gates wide open. Next year we hope to be turning left here to head to the Basingstoke Canal, water levels permitting.
Kath and Sean to the left, Chippy straight on
I was just getting ready to step off and work the lock when a chap appeared from the Lock cottage, more like house on the Thames. He waved us in and worked the lock for us.
More houses for sale today, small properties which no doubt will be bought and knocked down to build something more modern. The house on the end of Pharoah’s Island that was for sale a few years ago is having extensive work done to it, several boats moored alongside used to bring building materials over to the island.
Chertsey and Penton Hook Locks were both manned, a helpful reminder from a Lock Keeper about the side filling locks coming up today. We passed two chaps in a canoe who are working their way from Bristol to London, we wondered which way into London they’d go. A friend of mine once canoed downstream of Tower Bridge on an organised event!
The trees are still very well clipped in Staines-on-Thames. Was that a platform for a duck disco? We pulled in at the first lower mooring and Mick bobbed off to pick up a prescription and some fruit. As soon as he was back we were on our way again, hoping to reach a good mooring before the storm arrived mid afternoon.
Mick spotted a familiar flag on the bow of a cruiser, a fellow Reflection Flotilla boat. I spotted a polar bear.
Then we were going under the M25, we were now without! Bell Weir Lock is the first of the side fillers, an extra turn around a bollard helps a great deal at these locks. But our position made it impossible to get the bow rope round twice without intervention from the Lock Keeper, who just walked on by to open the sluices. I clung on as best I could, dodgy grip in one hand and cranky shoulder complaining. Must try harder at the next side filler!
The little backwater
Harry Roberts had a little holiday caravan and a rowing boat that Mick and friends used to row down a little back water, far too small for Oleanna to fit down. Runnymede and all it’s history remains on the ‘next time’ list. Maybe we should get a gold Licence again next year!
All the trip boats were tucked up as were the Bugsy Malone cars under the posh house on stilts!
Old Windsor Lock was on self service. The first time we’d done this one without a Lockie, blimey there’s a load of steps here! I forgot about holding the button for ten seconds on the control panel, so it took a while to fill, giving me time to adjust the bow line and chat to a couple who’d just moved to the area from Lincoln. The lock had a big sign beside it requiring you to close the top gates and leave it emptying.
Albert Bridge, the start of the Royal park land. Today a black car with two chaps followed us on the bank, perimeter security maybe?
Shallow was an understatement!
By now the wind was starting to strengthen, it was time to pull in somewhere and batten down the hatches before the storm really got going. The public mooring just after Kris hire boats had one boat moored on it, would we fit in there too? Two chaps sat on a bench said it was shallow, as did signs on the low wall. We soon discovered how shallow it was as we ran aground several meters out. It took a bit of umph to get us back afloat, next possible stop Eton above Romney Lock.
He’ll get soggy later
A dad and young lad stood at the control panel as I approached with our boat hook in hand. He was closing the bottom gate sluices with the intention of filling the lock. They were from one of the big Le Boat hire boats and it was most probably their first self service lock. It took a while for me to get through to him that it would be really good if we could use the water he’d be filling the lock with as it was in our favour.
Filling up
In we came, I hooked up the bow line that had been left resting on the cratch board and tied the bow to a bollard securely. Mick passed his rope round a bollard at the stern a couple of times, this was a side filler. Only one push of the button was required for it to start the process of filling and the sluices continued to rise at intervals. We were soon up and on our way to find a mooring.
The first time we came through Windsor people moored in the lock cut, but that is not allowed anymore. We pootled along thinking we’d end up mooring on the Brocas infront of my Aunt and Uncles old flat. But we quickly spied that the free mooring just before Windsor Road Bridge was empty, we headed straight for it.
Really?
Here there are several signs, EA signs saying not to run your engine/generator/ play loud music, 24 hour mooring. Others from Eton Riverside Management Ltd saying to only tie to the rings not the railings as it’s a public right of way. Then two new looking signs saying Private Land, they didn’t say ‘No Mooring’. Hmmmm! The official signs out numbered the other signs and a storm was just starting to take hold and we’d be quiet anyway. We stayed put suspecting the new signs were from a boat hating flat owner, hoping to put boats off mooring.
Tilly was disgruntled not to be let out as we battened down the hatches and bang on 3pm it started to rain. It rained, then rained some more, the sound on the front panel of the pram cover suggesting it was very heavy. If anyone did have a problem with us mooring here, they certainly weren’t going to come out to tell us so!
Our view of Windsor Castle
On checking our trip computer at the end of todays cruise I noticed that the total mileage for this year so far had just passed 1000 miles. We’re actually likely to have exceeded 1000 miles as the trip computer tends to cut corners. Add to this the miles yet to come returning to Yorkshire, so around another 300 miles, I don’t think we’ll have C&RT on our backs for not moving enough!
Our trip computer works using Water Explorer, which come the end of the year will no longer exist. It’s been handy knowing how many locks and miles we’ve done each day. Sometimes it gets things wrong, you very often go through Beeston Lock twice and omits others. But as a general tally of where we’ve been and what what miles we’ve covered it’s been good, I will miss it. We just need to sort out what we’ll use instead, not many GPS programs will count the number of locks you go through.
6 locks, 2 self service, 13.68 miles, 6 nights 8 people $40,500! 1 pause for pills, 1 duck disco, 2 shallow, 3pm rain, 0 shore leave, 1 wet night, 1000.55 miles this year.
Paddington Basin to Three Bridges, Grand Union to Teddington, River Thames
Yellow sticker time
Being right alongside an M&S Food we popped in this morning to pick up a few bits to keep us going. They lacked some things we wanted and we stuck to sourcing things with yellow sad git stickers and I was surprised to find potatoes at £1 for a big bag.
Paddington Basin
Before pushing off we took advantage of the port side being alongside the pontoon and emptied our yellow water into the big container for disposal of later. Always as Mick stands over the hosepipe and container someone comes to talk to him, this time it was Cheryl from next door.
Very good to meet you both, see you somewhere, sometime
Once suitably attired for the wind and chill factor we winded in the basin and returned waving goodbye to Eric and Cheryl, they’d be moving off today too.
In Little Venice a weed cutter was off loading mushy peas into a skip boat. Despite the water point being empty we carried on out of town knowing we’d be by a water point and elsan later in the day. A pause for me to hop off at Ladbroke Grove to nip into Sainsburys to fill in the gaps M&S had left us with and we were soon on our way again.
She wouldn’t let me say what I thought of the flotilla!
Not much further on it started to rain. We were dressed for this just in case, but as it became heavier I made excuses to go inside, well I’d the blog to update and Tilly to talk to. Once it had dried up I bobbed back up on deck with lunch.
At Bulls Bridge we turned left and headed down to Norwood Top Lock. A widebeam skip boat was just coming up and being bowhauled clear of the lock. We pulled in, filled the water tank and used the elsan whilst the two chaps brought up the tug to push the skip along.
At heffing cheffing last!
We dropped down the two locks and pulled in a short distance along the mooring, here was popular today. But we got into the bank and having just emptied the lock behind us we’d not have to listen to water gushing out of the gates all night. There was an hour before dingding, so Tilly got her first shore leave in a week. The trees are pretty good round here!
Pretty damn yummy!
Some Posh Dogs had jumped into our basket in M&S so I used four of them in a toad-in-the-hole, freezing the other two monster sausages for a breakfast sometime. My Mums old enamelled pie tin worked better than the modern one I used to use.
Three Bridges
Wednesday morning and we were on the move fairly early, we’d a flight of locks to work through and the tide catch. First things first though the obligatory photo of Mick stood at the helm whilst passing through Three Bridges, a place he used to come as a child.
Filling the top lock
Hanwell Top Lock needed filling. I glanced down to the next lock in the flight the top gates both open. Sun glinted at a low light as two chaps with long handled strimmers hacked away at the bamboo in the side ponds by the locks. All this noise had distracted me so when Mick came to have a look down the flight I was unaware that the pound below was actually getting on for three foot lower than it should be.
A light snack!
In case the bottom gates of the next lock were leaking like a sieve I walked down and closed the top gates and made sure all the paddles were down. We then ran water down through the Top Lock. Mick rang C&RT to let them know this as the pound above might need filling, he got the answerphone again. A heron considered filling itself up with an eel. Thankfully I think it was already dead as the thought of a full eel wriggling down inside a heron wasn’t a pleasant one, I also think the heron may not have survived as the eel was far too big!
With the level improved we dropped Oleanna down the top lock. Behind I could see a boat approaching, it turned out to be a C&RT tug boat. Entering the lock below one of the chaps came down to ask if we were in a hurry, only that we were booked out through Brentford this afternoon, but we were happy to wait for them. He said we’d be fine as he’d be the one letting us out onto the Thames this afternoon.
Now mob handed with three C&RT staff with us we zoomed down the flight. Someone setting ahead, two at the lock the boats were in and it also gave Derek time to walk back to the top to check the level in the Three Bridges pound. The lower pounds were quite full and emptying one lock it nearly overtopped onto the footpath. At the bottom of the flight we lost one chap, a volunteer who’d be staying on the flight today. Now we were down to two on each boat, passing our normal mooring near The Fox and Mick’s old flat.
We were surprised at how little detritus there was by Osterley Lock. There’s normally so much stuff you have to wade through it to get to the bank, today there were only a couple of footballs.
Volunteers having a good clean up
At Clitheroe Lock a gang from Sky were busy trimming back the overhanging trees and hedges. All the weeds around the lock were being removed, a great effort, many hands make light work.
The C&RT boat over took us approaching Brentford, pushing their way towards the Gauging lock. We pootled on behind. As we came under the Railway Bridge we immediatly noticed something was missing. The old wharf building that used to span over some of the moorings has gone. There is so much more sky in Brentford now, but not for long we suspect as diggers are busy behind fences on both sides of the canal.
Swirly paint job
We pulled in to top up with water again, dispose of rubbish. Sadly no-one was in sight on the boat moored close by otherwise we’d have said hello.
New lock gates going in
Derek the Lock Keeper had told us we’d need to use the right hand gauging lock as the left one was in the process of getting new gates. I could see the stop planks but nothing more as the gates on these locks are low and operated by hydraulics so don’t need big wooden beams. Not able to work the lock ourselves we had two volunteers appear to help press the buttons.
We were early for our booking, but in time for some lunch. Left over pastry from sausage rolls was made into a couple of cheese and onion pasties for us. Very tasty, but the recipe I followed had far too much filling, so I baked it and we had it on the side.
Waiting to come up
Derek arrived and waved us into the lock. As soon as the gates were closed he lifted the paddles and down we headed to the tidal Thames again. Just below the gates we could see someone clinging onto a rope and presumably their boat below. We pointed this out to Derek who said that they’d not booked and had apparently turned up last night wanting to be penned up when no-one was on duty. They’d been directed to where they could moor for the night. Derek’s attitude was that 2000 people manage to book the lock a year, what makes them any different!
Out onto the tidal Thames
Out onto the Thames, not cutting the corner, we were ahead of schedule, but a couple of days behind Plan A. We’d soon catch ourselves up.
Familiar sights. Low flying planes. A boat being towed backwards. A rowing boat doing circles.
Really?!
Approaching Richmond Lock and Weir the signs suggested that the lock needed to be used even though there were amber lights at one of the arches. This is a half tide lock and holds water in the river upstream as the tide goes out. The writing on the sign was too small to read the phone number, our info on the Thames hunted through, then we could see the drips still coming down from the weir, it was open, the sign was just lying!
Through the weir
On through Richmond and round the final bend to Teddington.
The bridges grey and dull compared to Saturdays bridges
The green light was on for the launch lock, the gates open, so we sailed straight in. The Lockie came and did the honours for us.
Teddington Lock
We tootled up to the far end of the moorings, let Tilly out and then Mick walked back to the lock to pay for a nights mooring £11. The Lockie was just chaining up the lock gates when he arrived as the spring tide this evening was due to be higher than the weir.
Seagull seat
Now back on track, we just need to keep up a reasonable amount of hours each day, hope the weather plays ball!
13 locks, 2 tidal, 9 shared, 24.58 miles, 2 days, 1 wind, 1 straight on, 1 left, 1 right, 1 clean poo box, 1 empty wee tank, 1 full water tank twice, 2 pasties, 4 giant toads, 1 eel.
A buoy outside Chelsea Harbour Marina to Limehouse Basin
*This post contains some slideshows. I’m not sure if these will work if you get the post emailed to you, so you may have to go to the website.*
Getting into position
It took a little while for us all to get into position as the flotilla started to move away downstream. In all the paperwork we’d been given about the event we’d not seen how far apart to the side boats should be. Infront and behind should be about 60ft, a boats length. As our huddle of boats moved into position we decided that maybe a similar distance to the sides would be good too.
Beam us up Scotty! Quite an artistic mistake!
It was dusk, you could just see peoples lights. I had my camera and fully charged phone on hand to take photos. I’m by no means a pro, the contrasting lighting along with being on the move meant there have been many a photo head straight to the bin. Add to the mix keeping an eye on the flotilla, checking which bridge arch we should be heading to and whether we’d be sharing it with neighbouring boat Panacea or not, listening to Flotilla Control instructions, this all made for one busy evening.
Dusk
By the time we’d reached Battersea Road Bridge we’d all got into position. Already people lined the bridge above us.
Albert Bridge, wonderful in day light, now at dusk a spiders web of Victorian beauty. There waiting on the down stream side was Gloriana the Royal Row Barge. Neon rope light swaged along the gunnels and every long oar stood upright with a straight line of white light. No-one would miss her.
Illuminated Rowing
Flotilla Control called Gloriana into position in the flotilla. Safety gaps had been planned between certain sections to hopefully avoid bunching up. The flotilla was now complete. Motor powered boats in front, Gloriana in the middle followed by man powered boats.
Looking back upstream
Following our charts and the boat ahead. Hang on, shouldn’t we be going through the span to our port? This only happened at one bridge, we then kept to the plans we’d been given. Speed adjustments were required to try to keep in line, but then the boat ahead wouldn’t be going quite fast enough, so we’d slip behind our line. Safety boats moved along the sides, keeping an eye out. Our two red glow sticks were bent, broken and shaken in case we needed to draw attention to ourselves, thankfully they remained unused.
From the river we could see a line of people stood on each bank, just about every bridge too. I wondered if this had remained a Jubilee event would more people have had white glow sticks on the bridges. That would have been quite a sight.
Chelsea Bridge, Victoria Railway Bridge, Battersea Power Station with it’s changing coloured chimneys.
Vauxhall Bridge at 19:32. Lambeth Bridge 19:39
Houses of Parliament
Instructions came through to speed up, get closer, slow down as Flotilla Control required. Positions drifted, then came back. Messages from family about our position needed conveying along with everything else. Sheet of bridge profiles once passed under added to the discard pile on the stern locker lid.
Westminster Bridge. The London Eye. Hungerford Bridge at 19:50
Festival Pier and the South Bank19:52. Waterloo Bridge. Blackfriars Bridge and Rail Bridge 20:01. Here those wanting to stay warm lined the windows looking down at us.
Millennium Footbridge. Was that Andrew, Jac and Josh? Had they got the right bit of bridge?
Yep it was, Andrew shouted to us that they would now head to the pub. I messaged them back telling them to turn round and wait until Gloriana had passed at least.
Southwark Bridge at 20:09 Now we could see Tower Bridge, the towers lit up in blue. The progress of the flotilla slowed, it slowed some more. Cannon Street Bridge, London Bridge 20:15.
Our progress slowed right down, Gloriana a distance behind, a Dutch Barge a touch too close. Keep moving came the instructions.
HMS Belfast was lined with Sea cadets who as Gloriana approached all saluted as did the oarsmen on board.
Were we waiting for Tower Bridge to lift? All boats were finding their own space, we’d liked to have carried on moving but that meant those ahead of us should be doing the same and those ahead of them. We could see double deckers and pedestrians still crossing the bridge.
After what felt like an absolute age Tower Bridge started to lift. Normally it lifts enough to let tall ships and boats through, but today it would lift all the way up in full Royal Salute.
Boats started to move, everyone of us going under the central span. Years ago before we owned NB Lillyanne I gave Mick a birthday card of Tower Bridge saying that one day we’d be going under that central span. Here today as one of the 150 boats we were doing just that, bedecked with fairy lights and at night, we were doing it in style. 20:40
There was now a bit of confusion. What was to happen at the end of the flotilla had changed due to the Queen passing away. Some boats sounded their horns, others remained silent. As Gloriana passed through the bridge and lifted their oars in salute there were three cheers for the King, then over the radio came instructions to sound our horns. Everyone went for it still moving downstream at a steady pace. A last look back to the bridge. WoW!!!
Now what? The narrowboats remained in formation heading down stream. All boats wanting to return upstream were meant to continue downstream and reach a certain boat before turning and heading back upstream along the northern bank. It was nice to see the displays of lights on the cruisers that we’d been behind, some very pretty boats.
The stretch of water below Tower Bridge is normally lumpy bumpy but this evening it was quiet, the river was still closed to normal traffic whilst the flotilla dispersed. Andrew the leader of the narrowboat section said he had a time for the lock, we all continued downstream, now arranging ourselves into our locking groups, there’d be four lockings into Limehouse as only one boat was heading back up stream. I spotted a red light flashing in front of us on top of a pole, as I was pointing it out to Mick, Simon shouted from the boat behind, we adjusted course accordingly passing the light on the starboard side.
Now we had rowers catching up with us, heading downstream, they were going some! Three passed us before we reached Canary Wharf where we turned and followed the north bank back towards Limehouse. One boat swapped to the first locking as they were overheating. Six boats packed into the lock and rose the now 7ft up to the canal.
We were instructed to hold back away from the opening of the lock as the water being dropped from it would make quite a bit of turbulence. The river had now opened to normal traffic, Uber boats zooming from one stop to the next and a huge party boat heading up stream. All those people who’d not been aware of what had been happening upstream of them over the last couple of hours.
Then it was our turn to head into the safety of the lock. A repeat of on the way out, ropes round risers, round the T stud and wait for the surge.
During the day a couple of boats had arrived at Limehouse and moored up. With more narrowboats coming back in and less wall or pontoon to tie to boats were rafting up again. On the pontoon I spied a chap inside his boat, I gestured to see if it was okay to pull alongside. It was, after all it is London! We came in carefully. Pam from Flora Dora came over the stern of the boat to help us with our bow rope.
In the dark on a strange boat Pam hadn’t seen the step down to the boats back door. As I passed our rope towards her, her hands held out to take it she fell towards me and the gap between the boats. Thankfully she didn’t fall between them, but this did mean she bumped her head on our gunnel. Glasses, phone were safe but Pam needed a sit down and to be checked over. After five minutes of quiet her shock subsided.
A quick check on Tilly, I think her evening had been calmer than the afternoon. I wonder if she sat in the window for any of it? The Cruising Association was open for us to be able to have a drink and a buffet had been laid on. It felt like an absolute age since we’d had our pizzas. After all the days excitement we sipped our glasses of wine exhausted.
WOW!! What a day! What an amazing day!!
1 lock twice, 15.95 miles, 9.5 hours on the tideway, 34 bridges gone under, 1 barrier closed, 12 narrowboats, 1 widebeam, 1 faulty radio, 1 borrowed tow line, 1 borrowed radio, 1 fully charged phone, 17 sheets of instructions, 1 dead body on the roof, 2 pizzas, 1 fluffed up Tilly, 1 very choppy ride, 1 dutch barge up the rear, 3 Leckenbys, 1 Cheryl, 2 many photos, 1 bridge in Royal Salute, 1st time under the centre span, 1 sponsored walk held up, 1st time in 300 years, 1 amazing afternoon and evening well worth the effort to get to London for, 2 privileged boaters and 1 cat.
1 very big thank you to all the boaters, friends and family who’ve allowed me to use their photos in the flotilla posts. Thank you.
Blog posts of such days take a lot of compiling. I’ve managed the first edit of photos down to around 200, then there are many others from fellow narrowboaters friends and family to add in.
So for now here’s a link to a time lapse of Tower Bridge opening and closing.
Thankfully those people who like to leave rubber on tarmac stopped their screeching around the car parks before we went to bed which left us with just the noise of water over flowing the lock. When we’ve moored here before Mick has walked back and emptied it for a quieter nights sleep, but at the moment we don’t have any difficulty dropping of to zzz land.
First lock of the day
We were on our way after Mick succeeded in buying a full Saturday newspaper and some firelighters. The nice lady in Sainsburys tracked him down once she’d found all the bits that come with a Saturday paper.
Grown up arch, kiddy arch
Brrr chilly! Might have to get the hand warmers out if it carries on like this. Fewer dog walkers this morning but more boats on the move. We dipped under the larger of the two arches at Bridge 154, passing where we’d watched a Kingfisher fishing years ago.
Nash Mills Lock 68 had a new blue sign as others had yesterday. Then Red Lion Lock had one two, but it wasn’t Red Lion anymore! Nash Mills Lock 69?! We wonder why locks along this stretch have had a change of name. Then we must have crossed a C&RT border of some sort as at Lock 69A there was no sign at the lock and Home Park Lock 70 still has a black and white swan and bridge logo.
Lacking teeth
We were following another boat, the off side paddle at 69A was dropped. When I came to close it I realised why. I’d only just walked past it on the beam and the catch jumped out of the teeth, the paddle rushing to the ground. A lot of the teeth have been lost, a tweet was sent to C&RT as the paddle is on a suicide mission.
Paddle boarders passed us at Home Park Lock. I waited until they’d got far enough ahead and steady on their feet for me to lift the paddles to empty the lock. The scaffolding on the M25 viaduct has now mostly been removed, some left at the far end for comfort. It all looks very smart under there now.
Inside the M25
A boat came towards us from the lock, they seemed to want to pass on our right, but then we twigged that they were picking up crew some distance away from the lock. They pulled in only to get grounded at the stern. With plenty of people on board they needed to move the weight to the bow to help rather than everyone come to the back to try to push them off. They managed it in the end.
We just beat a widebeam to the two Hunton Bridge Locks, the chap kindly walked ahead to set the lower one for us, so in return I lifted a paddle for them once we were through. Under Lady Capel’s Bridge a cyclist in red a bright contrast to the white and green. Past the posh golf course and a huge pile of rubbish left around the dog pooh bin, such skuzzy boaters!
This might have been here a while
Now the two Cassiobury Locks. This is where we caught up with the boat ahead. The crew chatted and informed me they were letting water down into the pound between the locks, it is quite often low due to leaky gates and having to leave the bottom lock empty.
Last lock of the day
Their boat was just a rusty hull, filled with all sorts of rubbish, no roof, just plenty of beer cans. The boat was bow hauled out of the bottom of the first lock and I half expected them to wait for us at the second lock as they pulled themselves between the locks. But no. We waited for them to close up after themselves, me closing a half lifted paddle and helping with gates. I got a very slurred thank you from them and comments about the gates not opening fully, they suggested that the next lock was totally blocked. We’d wait and see how many boats were moored waiting for it to open, hopefully we’d find room for ourselves to moor.
Dappled mooring
We were fortunate, a length of armco vacant before the line of boats before the lock. We’d reached our destination for the day and before lunchtime. I walked up towards the lock to check if there was anywhere nicer, but we’d actually got a really good spot. Five and a half hours in Tilly wonderland.
There was a cake to bake, pasta dough to finish off. I’d decided to make three times the quantities of pasta I normally do in case two was a little bit short, but couldn’t find a new bag of tapioca starch, a main ingredient in many gluten free things. Thankfully we’re close to Watford, with several Asian shops, so Mick was dispatched on a bike.
Avalon Two heading northwards
During the afternoon we were passed by several boats, one being NB Avalon Two, They stopped for a quick hello but as they were sharing locks with another boat they needed to be on their way. Lovely to see you Helen and Pete.
Later on, the boat we’d followed down Cassiobury Locks came past breasted up with another boat. Music, smoky engine, shouting, I hoped they’d keep going. Their course was a surprisingly straight one, they’d been drinking for at least 5 hours by now, but this actually meant they didn’t manage to negotiate the bend, getting stuck on the bank for a while. But thankfully they managed to correct their course and headed back up the locks and out of ear shot.
Steering with the aid of poles and beer
Three dough balls resting in the fridge, one cake iced, bathroom given a good going over, clean pooh box for Tilly and all windows washed inside. The props list for panto was updated then we could relax in front of the TV and stove with a glass of wine.
11 locks, 5.42 miles, 1 newspaper, 500grams tapioca starch, 5.5 hours shore leave, 1 clean bathroom, 1 location relayed, 1 cake, 2 much pasta, I hope it freezes!
Wansford Station EA mooring to Fotheringhay Castle
The alarm woke us and we were up breakfasted and on our way before 8am, we wanted to try to catch ourselves up and try to be moored up before too many people took to the waters on paddle boards or swimming.
A misty start
A very misty morning, the grass sock dampeningly wet with dew. We weren’t the only ones enjoying it, before the first lock we counted eight Kingfishers, each one far to quick for the camera!
We passed under the A1 bridges followed by Wansford Bridge surrounded by coaching houses.
Dewy spiders webs
Wansford Lock was set against us as all the locks would be today, everyone is heading upstream. Some fishermen helped close the top gates, very handy as the first gate had swung itself back open by the time I reached the other side of the lock where a walker offered to hold the gate for me too. We were soon up and on our way passing the posh houses and on to Yarwell Lock.
Here we didn’t remember the bell tents along the bank, an addition for the summer holidays? The top gate cill leaked badly but thankfully having a powered guillotine gate at the bottom this didn’t cause us any problems, Oleanna hung back in the lock to avoid any water getting into the bow. Once up we pulled in to top up with water, well fill the tank as we were really quite low. As soon as we’d got the hose sorted the cruiser that had been moored behind us last night arrived. Discussions were had with them, they weren’t keen to share a lock with anything weighing more than half a tonne, so they’d not wait for us.
Elton Mill in need of rescue
Above Elton Lock we came across Paul and Jacquie from NB Mosi-Y-Tunya and NB Rosnald, both moored up and enjoying the nearby village. They both would pass us later on, leap frogging their way ahead.
Waiting below Elton Lock
At Warmington Lock a group of youngsters considered going in for a swim, I think our presence along with two EA vans put them off. Mick tied Oleanna up and came to lend a hand as this is the first of the wheel operated locks heading upstream. Of course with Mick helping it did mean that it would be one of the easiest mechanisms to operate, the wheel almost turns itself once you’ve got it started, so I left him to empty the lock and wind the guillotine gate up. I then had to bring it back down.
From here we could see the tower of St Mary and All Saints Church at Fotheringhay, sitting on it’s hill in the distance. We followed the course of the river round to the castle mound where we pulled in infront of a boat that looked like it had been re-floated after being sunk for some time.
The time was noted, as after our last visit here everyone mentioned at how quickly the land owner arrives for his mooring fee. We had lunch then walked into the village to take a look at the church.
St Mary’s and All Saints Church
From the river we’d not really noticed how oddly sized the church was. Walking up the grand tree avenue to the north door we all of a sudden did a double take. The church just didn’t look long enough! This was backed up when we went inside. Where was the choir, the font was in the wrong place and there was no big east window.
There’s bits missing
Back in the 1430’s the church was built with a college and cloister on it’s southern side. A short while later a parish church of a similar style was built to the west end of the collegiate church, it is the parish church which remains. The college was seized by the crown in 1547 and the chancel was pulled down almost immediately.
A window of York
At the east end of the church a high up clear window sits above ridges in the wall where the original building used to continue. One coloured window shows off the coats of arms of the Yorkist dynasty.
The wonderful 15thC painted pulpit sits delicately where all can see it. Fan vaulting in it’s canopy matching that in the ceiling of the west end. A wonderful light filled church. Outside you can see where the building used to continue. The stone work less dressed than on the rest of the building, blocked in doorways and windows suggest of what once was.
On top of the castle again
We had a wander around the village before returning to the boat. Tilly and I had a good walk up the castle mound, she likes the view from up there. Then three and a half hours after we arrived the chap turned up with his Golden Syrup tin for the mooring fee. There was chance to ask about the moorings alongside the campsite. We’d been hoping to moor there and have the London Leckenbys come and camp, but sadly timings hadn’t worked out. The moorings alongside the campsite during the summer months have been suspended as so many campers now want to access the water and boats were just getting in the way. However if you turn up in winter it will be fine.
Breathing in didn’t help the boat or the bridge!
We also chatted about the boat behind us. It had been refloated three days earlier at Stibbington and had been brought up stream with the aim of reaching Oundle for it to be craned out. However it wouldn’t fit through the bridge as it was too wide! A little bit like a widebeam we’d heard coming through earlier in the afternoon!
Taking on water again
Sadly the boat was taking on water again and later on a chap turned up with a pump to raise it, he also left it with a bilge pump going over night. The new plan was to head back down stream possibly to near Stanground Lock where they would be able to get it craned out. The boat was built in the 1930’s and they are hoping to have it as a trip boat on the River Avon.
Blue and pink
4 locks, 9.18 miles, 1 proper days cruise, 10 kingfishers, 1 castle mooring, 1 short church, 1 props list updated, 1 meeting arranged, 1 cat of the castle, grade 1 hair cut, 1 lovely boat hopefully being saved.
River Wissey GOBA mooring to Salters Lode, Middle Level
Morning!
Still with water to get we were on our way quite early. We knew there was little chance of being able to wind before we reached Hilgay, we’d tried a couple of months ago and now with the levels lower and more reed growth there wasn’t even any point in trying. A dog stuck it’s nose out from the stern of the narrowboat nestled into the bank as it’s owner yawned as we passed.
It was a little bit tight turning by the water point rather than heading a bit further on to the official winding hole, but Mick managed in the end and we were soon moored up by the water point, filling up and having breakfast.
No Longer Hilgay Bridge
A new blue plaque on the bridge shows off it’s new name and a chap walked back and forth watering the flowers.
Black dots of birds
Back to the junction with the Great Ouse where we turned right, time to head to Denver for our crossing at midday. The birds are starting to gather overhead, readying themselves to head for warmer climes!
It’s falling in the water!
The two long stretches of EA moorings are still fenced off as you approach Denver. Today the notice regarding Littleport Station Road EA mooring dated January 2021 was rescinded and the mooring we’d been staying on recently is now officially open again. It sounds like piling work was carried out there and it looks like something similar will need to happen at Denver to get the banks stable again.
Last photo on the Great Ouse
Denver Sluice came into view, we pulled up alongside NB Poppy May to make sure we were all ready for our tidal crossing. The anchor has been attached and ready to be deployed for months now, the well deck just needed a bit of a tidy up, excess items put into the shower. Then we waited and chatted with Angus and Julie (I think) from Poppy May.
Waiting for the tide at Denver
A few years ago they had brought their boat onto the Great Ouse, now they were heading back towards C&RT waters, so this would be the first time for both of us heading downstream with the tide to Salters Lode.
The Lock Keeper arrived and started to empty the lock, he came for a chat. He would lock us both through at the same time, no need to worry about sand banks lurking under the surface. We were to lead the way with NB Poppy May following a short distance behind. One boat would be heading towards us. We would head straight into the lock and Poppy May should turn in towards the lock and wait by the guillotine gate for their turn. At 62ft long they were on the border of requiring the river to be on the same level as Well Creek.
Heading into the lock
The gate opened and as we went into the lock we turned and said our farewell to the Great Ouse. We arrived on the 20th May and now twelve and a half weeks later we were leaving.
Waiting for the gate to rise
A cautionary tale of ropes and loops and locks was told to Julie who then proceeded to pull her rope all the way through the big riser at the bow. The bottom guillotine gate was lifted just a bit and cloudy silty water started to swirl around the bows of the boats. We were going up several feet onto the out going tide.
Thumbs up, we were on our way to cross the half mile of tide, the ebb pulling us out towards Kings Lynn. I stayed at the bow knowing a rope may come in handy at Salters Lode. Up ahead we could already see the boat heading for Denver, we passed and carried on down stream.
There’s the lock!
There were a few houses on the west bank, one with quite a lot of washing out. Was this where the lock was? Or was it just that bit further on round the next bend near the next house? A chap sat on a chair watching us approach. I shouted back to Mick that this was the lock. ‘Are you sure?’ Fairly. As the chap stood up from his chair I could now see the LOCK sign, but I checked anyway. ‘Yep this is it’. Just in time for Mick to start to make the turn. With the tide going out we’d been told to head straight for the lock and not to turn to face the out going tide as we’d end up dragging along the tyre wall.
Breath in!
The approach to the lock is narrow with a wooden fence helping to guide you in. Mick turned, a blast of bow thruster to avoid the starboard side from hitting the bank and into the lock we shot. Full power to stern! We’d not touched the side. Phew!
Mick chatting to Paul the Lock Keeper
At the bow it had seemed a lot calmer than our first ever turn in at Selby, but I believe the atmosphere was a touch more at the stern.
Oleanna happy as always
Now we dropped down on to Well Creek. A quick discussion as to where to aim for today. The moorings on the Middle Level tend to be 36hours, not helpful for having a full day to work for me. The next couple of places we’d be stopping at will not be cat friendly either, so we decided to stay put and moored up on the landing a short distance away from the lock.
Moored at Salters Lode
Tilly got to have a good explore round. She wasn’t that impressed, less so with the pontoon surface. Every step had to be checked twice, then the gathering swallows swooped down on her, angry at her existence.
Template for my model with a stretching cat
Work came out and I concentrated on my painted ironwork for the portals. Part way through the afternoon however my right hand started to ache a lot. Yesterday when we’d pulled up on the Wissey I’d done something to my hand whilst moving a fender. It had been painful for a little while but eased off. Today it warranted some pain killers and an early stop to work, not something I’ll be able to do every day.
I’m going to end up like a waffle if I lie on here too long!
As we watched the TV this evening Tilly decided that she’d head out again for a twilight check of the surroundings. Thankfully today the one way door returned to being one way. We did our best not to laugh out loud as Tilly crashed into the glazing and slid down onto the floor. Not deterred she tried again, clinging on with her claws for a while before giving up and heading into the bathroom to check on the new doorway there. Of course this was also glazed!
2 locks, 5.24 miles, 0.5 miles tidal, 2 rivers, 1 creek, 1 right, 1 left, 1 full water tank, 1 load washing, 1 holey outside, 2 many birdies, 2 portals closed, 1 farewell to the Great Ouse, 1 left handed mouse.
