Final jobs in the house. Making up beds, a nice shower required the cubical to be squeegeed down again, hovering, sandwich making, crumbs from the toaster etc. Mick was finished before I was and stood waiting to take the bin out. I then ran round the house to do an idiot check and make sure everything was ready for our next lodgers, the car was packed and we were on our way at midday. Just a shame we’d left a block of cheese and some milk in the fridge! Frank would you like some cheese?
Our blue pompom bush has gone bonkers
We stopped off for some more cat litter. Tilly uses a mixture of wood and odour control litter, we in our separating toilet use wood litter to cover our deposits. Recently we’ve found that we prefer using a wood cat litter from Pets at Home. This is paler than the supermarket version and when some water is added it fluffs up nicely without being sticky for sprinkling. So we paused to purchase a bag as we left Scarborough.
An A1 sock
Our route back was slow, Mick chose to head southwards on the A1, our route north had been on the M1, lots of road works! It being a Friday afternoon plenty of people were also on the move. Not so many road works, but we did have quite a few slow sections, one where a car had pulled onto the central reservation under a bridge and then decided to get back into the line of traffic, causing the slow moving traffic to do an emergency stop! Why they couldn’t have signalled and waited to be let in, who knows! This route follows the River Trent, Nene and Great Ouse.
Turning off the M25
Only one comfort stop was taken to eat our butties we’d made and seven hours after leaving Scarborough we were at the marina gates in Pyrford, I’d almost knitted a complete sock!
I think someone was pleased to have us home
First things first, give Tilly a cuddle. I gave the usual meow as I walked up to the boat and could hear excited relieved paws charge through Oleanna, then shouting took over. WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN!!???!!! You said it would be two BIG sleeps, well it was 6! That means you owe me 4 more meals. I had to save those biscuits just in case you’d gone FOREVER!!!!
Plenty of frantic head nudges, so many that I lost my glasses. I don’t think she’d liked the neighbours NO! They have woofers! Food was required, a top up of biscuits and some whitefish tonight. Tom came in and gave me a good ear rub, he also had a LOT of bags with him. I apparently can go in my box a lot now, but not too much yet as they want my litter for extra ballast. The wine cellar was filled up and most of the cupboards. Then Mick headed back out, this time to Tescos for a click and collect of fresh things also picking up a few more bits that we thought might be good to have, including some more cheese. Four more bags of shopping to stow!
Here’s hoping we don’t eat our way through all this extra ballast too soon. Where we’re heading in the next couple of weeks we’ll be needing to be as low as possible in the water!
0 locks, 0 miles, 253 miles by car, 3 bags litter, 6 boxes wine, 1 bag cat biscuits, 2 boxes pink food, 1 chicken, 3 loaves bread, 4 pints not 2! 2 bottles vinegar, 1kg potatoes, 0.75 of a sock, 6 sleeps not 2! 2 beds made up ready, 1 block of cheddar, 1 ecstatic cat.
Before breakfast Mick was heading off on the Brompton to pick up a hire car from Enterprise. So much for their slogan ‘The company that picks you up‘! Mick had called them yesterday to arrange a pick up from the marina. The website had suggested that the Weybridge branch was the closest so he’d chosen to book with them, after all they were only 3 miles away. Sorry we don’t cover that area, we’ll need to move your booking to Woking. This apparently was going to happen, so Mick called Woking to arrange a pick up, however because he’d prepaid the booking couldn’t be moved! We’ve come across this before. It just ended up being easier all round to keep the booking with Weybridge and either get the bus or cycle to pick up the car. The later was chosen.
Magic food bowl filled and timer set
As bags were packed with overnight things, Tilly got twitchy. Oh blimey not the super fast outside! She needn’t have worried, she was being left in charge of Oleanna. The magic food bowl came out from under the bathroom sink. Cod and Tuna please.And I got to select toys from my toy box, it smells so good in there!
Now where’s that fish gone, oh and snowman!
Once breakfasted and the car was packed we were on our way, back to Scarborough. At times the going was slow. The satnav took us on what we felt to be a long route to the M25, but looking at the map it kind of made sense. On the M25, rather than under it we spotted canal landmarks as we passed them. The big road viaduct across the Grand Union, we stopped at Watford Gap for a jacket potato lunch, Long Buckby, etc as we made our way round London and headed north. A comfort break at Doncaster and then we were crossing over the Yorkshire Wolds back to a sunny Scarborough.
The car was emptied and then Mick headed off to pick our evening meal. I did an idiot check from the last lot of lodgers. Quite a few things left, a new big turquoise cushion, but mostly shower gel and a few things in the fridge. All understandable as they will be returning in a few weeks time.
Obligatory fish and chips
Mick dealt with the compost and a mental note of jobs that needed doing was made.
It’s a good job there are four lots of bedding for the main two bedrooms, this means we can do a turn around quite quickly should we need to. However recently we’ve had a few change overs, one more than expected, so all but one set of bed linen needed ironing. Annie gets extra brownie points for having washed towels and sheets and left them to dry for us.
I spent much of the day ironing, whilst Mick had a blood test that he’d managed to arrange to coincide with our visit and then he got on with a tidy of the gardens. At least we can say we’d been part of No Mow May!
A Sainsbury’s delivery to restock the none perishables arrived, a few items for the house others went straight in the car. Showers were polished back up to standard, finger prints from kitchen cupboard doors removed and the worst bits cleaned from the ovens. Quite an exhausting day really. Mine wasn’t, it was very VERY boring! Apart from waiting for my magic food bowl to open, that kept me occupied for several hours, in fact I nearly fell asleep waiting.I’m sure She got the times wrong!
0 locks, 0 miles by canal, 252 miles by road, 3.1 miles by bike, 7 sets of bed linen, 2 showers, 1 forsythia, 2 lawns, 2 beds made, 8 towels, 2 of each, 6 boxes wine, 2 bags litter, 7 hours drive, 1 full on day.
Shepperton Village Visitor Moorings to Pyrford Marina
This morning we needed to leave the Thames, once we’d breakfasted we pushed off into the current still flowing quickly around the island. As we passed the top of the island we tried to count the number of woofers, we couldn’t as they were all too busy having fun running around with their walkers making a blur of wagging tails.
Quite a pack!
People were already enjoying a morning coffee at D’Oyly’s on D’Oyly Carte Island, the sun doing it’s best to show it’s face. We brought Oleanna round to the junction below Shepperton Lock, here so many channels weave around, weir cuts, islands, it’s quite confusing as to which wey to go. Having been here before we knew which wey the Wey was. Straight on, but left of straight on. There is a green sign to help you.
The stop lock gate was open, so we pulled in to moor below Thames Lock and walked up to find the Lock Keeper. We’d arrived at a busy time, the lock was just about to be filled for two boats coming down off the River Wey, there were two Lock Keepers, one in training. We were asked our draught, 2ft 6″, the Stop Lock would be needed to raise the level below Thames Lock to get us over the cill. The gate behind us was closed and we were instructed to mind our lines when they emptied Thames Lock, the two downhill boats would then come into the stop lock, keeping to their left and once we could get round and into the lock we could do-ci-do with them.
Getting ready to do-ci-do
The stop lock rose by about a foot, giving us enough depth over the bottom cill of Thames Lock. Our ropes were taken up to the top of the lock, popped round bollards and returned to us, the stern line passed round a yellow post, the gates closed behind us and then we had to wait for the other two boats on the stop lock to be set free out onto the Thames. Then we were gradually raised up in the lock, the sluices giving a big arc of water into the lock, finally after several minutes the plume of water was submerged and quiet returned.
Waiting to go up
Time to sort out our licence. We explained to the Lock Keeper what we were wanting to do and it was decided we’d be wanting a return transit licence and then maybe a single transit licence when we returned. We paid a deposit for a windlass to fit their sluices, a very long handle, we’ll compare our collection to see if we have anything already suitable for the next time we visit.
Then we were on our wey, just as another boat was arriving wanting to descend. The lady who was in training has waited three weeks with no boats and now today was the busiest day this year!
A much slower river than the Thames
I sent a message ahead to inform crew of another boat that we were now on our/the Wey (I’ll stop this soon I promise!). It was 2019 when we cruised the River Wey, run by the National Trust. Here you are asked to leave lock gates open when you leave a lock, but always close the sluices. You must use fore and aft lines and turn your engine off, when ascending a lock the stern line must be passed round the yellow post right at the back of the lock, this stops your boat from being dragged forwards as the lock fills. All these things we remembered, this time it didn’t feel wrong leaving gates open.
This wey!
Weybridge Town Lock goes off the river at a right angle just after a bridge, you can’t see if the bottom gates are open, so I walked up to check, it was in our favour. With the bow line on the roof of the cratch and a boat hook to grab it we were sorted and made our way up the lock.
Coxes Lock
On to Coxes Lock below the big mill. The lock was against us so we made use of the lock landing being on the port side to empty the yellow water tank whilst we could. This did mean another boat came from above and reset the lock for us just as we’d finished our chores. This is the deepest unmanned lock on the River Wey and the bottom gates are really quite heavy, a bar on a chain means you can pull them closed without having to stand right on the edge of a large drop.
Mick helping out
A message from ahead, filling with water and then they’d be on their wey towards us.
New Haw Lock
New Haw Lock with it’s awkward cranked metal beams requires some umph to close, the road most probably an addition after the navigation was built. But as the lock fills you have time to admire the pretty lock cottage.
Without!
A long straight passing under the M25 again, we were now without. The graffiti here was worth taking note of, well about half of it, some very fine work. Past the end of the Basingstoke Canal and straight on. Was this where we moored for our day out to Brooklands? Woods surround the canal, but the sound from the M25 lingers totally out of place with the view.
Up ahead the bow of a narrowboat came into view. Two people sat in the bow, was this them? Someone else stood up in the welldeck, it was! A wave between boats and then a slowing down. Ann-Marie and Dave onNB Legend were giving Mum and Dad a cruise down to New Haw. There was chance to say a quick hello and that they would come and find us later on.
Dave and NB Legend
Soon we arrived at Pyrford Marina, we turned in and pulled up onto the service mooring, the water tank started filling, rubbish disposed of and the button pressed to call the office. No answer came so Mick walked over returning with someone to fill our diesel tank, £1.05 at 10% split, the cheapest we’ve had this year. Mick had been given instructions as to where we were to moor, we could then head back to the office to pay.
Bow tied to a short stumpy pontoon and stern to a post, we had a late lunch before going to pay our bill. The marina isn’t cheap, but no marinas are in this part of the country, they did come and put £10 electric on the post for us. The washing machine went into overdrive. Washing was hung up to dry all over the place by the time Ann-Marie and Dave arrived for a cuppa and a catch up.
Ann-Marie is from this part of the country and a few years ago they got stuck on the Basingstoke Canal for months, a lock gate was broken and by the time a new one could be made the canal would not have enough water for them to be able to fill the locks, then there was winter maintenance on the horizon and a lot of lock gates were going to be removed. A window of opportunity arrived with enough water before the canal closed. As they made their way down the locks gates that would normally be firmly closed behind them and ashed up to save water leakage were actually being taken out by crane.
Bye!
Mick last saw them in Goole October/November 2021, they kindly kept an eye on Oleanna for us whilst I was working on Panto and Mick returned to the house for a few days. I’d last seen them in 2019 as we were both heading for the Thames from the Kennet and Avon, they would be following us up stream. That however didn’t go according to plan. Mick and Oleanna managed to battle their way upstream with the Thames in flood, NB Legend didn’t have enough engine power and they ended up mooring on the high sided bank at Wallingford. Here they stayed with the river in flood, adding posts to keep them from going over the bank, then lockdown happened, they were moored there when the levels went down, stepping onto the roof from the bank, seven months in all. There have been other stories of incidents, go to their blog to read about the Trent, Eeek!!
Earlier this year they made the decision that they would move back onto land, the network just about cruised and grandchildren to watch grow. So this was most probably the last time our bows would cross as NB Legend will be going on the market later this year. So glad we ended up in the same place at the right time. They have projects planned, converting a van into a motorhome, there’s no keeping them still. All the best for your future adventures.
4 locks, 5.8 miles, 1 long windlass, 2 bows passing for the last time, 4 loads washing, 75 litres, 1 full water tank, 1 empty wee tank, 1 very bored cat!
Dorney Lake Bend to Shepperton Village Visitor Moorings
A much quieter day on the river, we’d made a wise decision to stop early yesterday, but today we’d need to make up for it. As we pushed off the lady from the hire boat in front popped her head out to thank us for helping yesterday, they’ve boated before but not for five years, they’ll soon get to grips with things again.
An empty river
We winded and headed for Boveney Lock, a Lock Keeper on duty penning us down, we paused at the bins below the lock before carrying on. Yesterday I’d have been able to take sunny photos of the castle, but today was just grey, the Castle a shadow of itself. Plenty of space to moor on the Brocas with only a couple of cruisers tied up, the bank seemed to be straighter than I remembered. This is where I used to come with my Aunt Nancy and Uncle Peter to feed the swans when I was little. Then as I got older we’d stand on Windsor Bridge to watch Concord fly over, my cousins joked about hearing the sonic boom ( they were both pilots by then).
Windsor
Two boats were coming up in Romney Lock when we arrived, a day boat operating the sluices, a volunteer chatting away to the cruiser at the back of the lock. The chaps pushing the buttons couldn’t believe how long it was taking to fill the lock, but it is nearly 260ft long, you could easily fit 12 Oleannas and have space for a few cruisers in there. The volunteer volunteered to push buttons so I could hold the bow rope and down we went.
Royal bottoms
Between Victoria and Albert Bridges, around Home Park there has been a hedge planted, currently only a couple of feet high, but will it in time block out the view of the castle from the river here? Four ladies two on horse back the other two on a carriage appeared from nowhere. Were they royal family members, half term activates? Beige jodphurs. We kept up with them for a while but then they disappeared. Two people rode towards us out for a yack, black jodphurs this time. Might there be a royal hierarchy of jodphur colours, more senior royals in darker colours? They gave a wave to us, not quite a standard royal wave, so maybe they were just patrolling the perimeter.
Holders of a Thames Key Power
Old Windsor Lock was just being opened by one of the trip boats. The two crew, as you’d expect, had their ropes in handy locations resting on a canopy and hooked up on the cabin sides. They tied the boat off and one chap headed up to the Lock Keepers hut a special Key of Power in his hand, he turned it in a box enabling the extra buttons on the control panel, this meant they could lift the sluices quicker, their boat almost being as wide as the lock hardly moved about as it rose.
Under the M25
The panels are older than those further upstream, so you have to push and hold the buttons for the sluices for ten seconds, then wait for two minutes before you do it again. It took us a lot longer than the trip boat, but by the time the lock was nearly empty boats were approaching from below so I could leave their crew to open the gates for us.
Quite a tree for a cormorants drying perch
Runnymede is still on the ‘next time’ list. We’ve not had time to touch the list on this trip, other than a wander around Wallingford, maybe we’ll have to come back and spend a lot longer on the river ‘next time’. We pulled in for a lunch break at Staines upon Thames, Tilly was kept occupied looking out of the window hunting for trees above the high concrete edge. Hopefully we’d get a mooring today where she’d be able to go out.
Within the M25
At Penton Hook Lock we descended with the assistance of a Lock Keeper. As the sluices rose I saw a spurt of something angled upwards to the walk way. Was this a hydraulic leak? I was going to mention it but got distracted as we pulled out of the lock, a Le Boat rounding the bend from the marina and a house for sale. Reports later on Facebook were that the lock had a hydraulic problem with a sluice and was awaiting engineers, I think we may have been the last boat through!
The hire boat was making VERY slow progress downstream, they let us overtake but joined us in Chertsey Lock. The Lock Keeper quickly sussed it was their first lock and gave them directions as to how to hold ropes on bollards.
There were so many houses for sale today, I think I took at least 14 photos. Many were small old one story houses in need of renovation. A few more modern properties, one household were obviously moving as their next door neighbour was being up sized to twice what had most probably been there before.
Then the end of Pharoah’s Island is for sale, the opposite end to where a posh house sits, plenty of land and planning permission for a three bed modern house with 130m of waterfront! Yours at a snip for £999,950.
Last lock of the day
Shepperton Lock our last for today, then the hunt for a mooring started. Opposite at the end of the Desborough Channel there wasn’t enough room for us. Time to look around the back of Desborough Island, we went left down stream, the flow quite surprising. The first mooring was taken, but it wouldn’t have been very good for Tilly anyway. Then the Shepperton Village visitor Moorings. Three boats were already moored up, but space for at least two more, one being us! We winded and pulled in to moor. The flow necessitating a bow spike as soon as possible.
WHAT!!!!
The doors were opened and Tilly went out onto the grass. WHAT! Where is my island outside and friendly cover? This isn’t good, it must be troublesome needing so many boats to tie it up! And look there are people! It’s rubbish, I’m going back to bed! Oh well you can’t please everyone all the time!
Pushing against the flow
7 locks, 6 manned, 16.5 miles, 3 winds, 1 tree, 1 lunch pause, 6 royal trousers, 1 prince or princess wave? 1 key of power, 1 disappointed cat.
What a gorgeous morning, well until the loud hailers from the rowing support boats started at 7:30! Soon followed by swimmers, they were all taking advantage of a quieter river in wonderful sunshine. It wouldn’t stay that quiet for long!
Yum!
Much to Tilly’s disgust we hadn’t booked for another three nights on her island, so she grumped and went back to bed whilst we enjoyed a cooked breakfast and the Geraghty Sunday morning zoom. Subjects included, going underground, star of the week and Lego cars, plus vague arrangements were made to meet up with a sibling or two in a few days. However later in the day Mick realised we’d got all our days in a muddle and we won’t be quite where we said we’d be!
You are a big fat MEANIE you are!
By 11am we were ready to push off, stern line untied first then the bow, a push out and we were on our way heading upstream. Not for long though, once past the islands we winded, a cruiser behind us having to slow it’s pace and as we turned we fell in line with another heading downstream. By the time we got to glance over our shoulders Tilly’s Island was already being invaded by paddle boarders.
Not far on the river banks get busier again, moored boats and a lot of moving ones. We headed towards Boulter’s Lock, boats coming towards us and quite a few in front of us too. Three cruisers on one side of the lock, three seacadet rowing boats on the other. The Lock Keeper waved us in and asked the rowing boats to nudge up. Seven boats in the lock, the Lockies mathematics having to work. You could see the glee on his face, almost a full lock, he would have been able to fit another narrowboat in, but none showed to his disappointment. The sunshine had certainly woken up the boaters.
An almost full lock
A crowd of gongoozlers watched on from the bridge above as the lock lowered the boats, then in an orderly fashion a rowing boat headed out followed by a cruiser, another rowing boat, cruiser, so on until we brought up the rear.
£5,350,000It’s had a modern make over
Maidenhead houses sprawled out on the banks, three for sale I only got two photos, the third one is worth a look for it’s period details, that fireplace!
£4,000,000 with original features, but if you had a touch more cash look at next door!
The river was now that bit busier still, or so it seemed. A row of boats headed on downstream towards Bray Lock. A cruiser passed us just in time before the layby, the layby soon filled up. As boats came up out of the lock the queue headed in boat by boat. The Lock Keeper came along asked our length, mathematics again. Bray Lock is 65ft shorter and just over 3ft narrower than Boulters Lock. We wouldn’t fit, ‘Sorry you’ll be in the next penning’, he waved a cruiser on from behind us, the queue now down to two boats.
Oleanna was too long, we’d have to wait
Some shade was sought, Mummy duck kept her four ducklings close and the boat behind us chatted away with beers and music. Our island idyll from last night now far gone.
Keeping away from the woofers
It was now our turn, the Lock Keeper insisted on taking the bow rope from me, so I didn’t have to step off, he’d already had a body in the lock today, an alive one he quickly added. One of the chaps from the boat accompanying us had fallen in earlier this morning. This did not surprise me! Every one stayed dry as we were lowered to the level of the next reach.
A nice place to sit and watch the river flow by
Under the M4, past Monkey Island, Bray Film Studios, Oakley Court with it’s numerous places to sit out and watch the boats go by. At last the weather gods had turned the thermostat up, everyone was really enjoying the sunshine. You can’t help but notice the price of fuel on the Thames. Bray Marina £1.57 for diesel and £1.91petrol. A short distance away the diesel was 3p cheaper!
We should have been carrying on to Windsor or Runnymead today, but with the water being SO busy we decided that as soon as we saw a suitable mooring we should stop. The sharp bend at the end of Dorney Rowing Lake had a cruiser on it, plenty of room for us too, we just needed to wind and pull in whilst there was a gap in boats. As we pulled past the cruiser we both said a jolly hello, not even a look up from their papers, no acknowledgment what so ever, we’d not be making new friends today!
Moron!
The river was busy this afternoon, it was obvious when ever Boveney Lock a little bit down stream had penned boats up and a while later a cluster of boats would arrive from Bray Lock. Add to this planes flying in and out of Heathrow it made for quite a noisy afternoon. Plus when someone decided they should crank up their engine and hightail it off into the distance we were buffeted about somewhat.
Tilly busied herself outside, well someone had to tidy up the outside! whilst we sat indoors, nowhere to sit in the shade by our mooring which was covered in nettles. We willed the speechless cruiser to move on, chances were it would and return to their mooring, but only when they’d finished reading their Sunday newspaper.
At around 6pm Mick was just saying what a shame as if we had more room he could have lit the barbeque a couple of hours ago and it would just about be ready to cook on. The back door was opened for Tilly, the speechless cruiser had also been silent when it had departed. We could now pull back and take advantage of more bank to sit out on. Just as we were finishing adjusting our spikes a hire boat arrived, crew having just picked their cruiser up this afternoon. Could they moor here? We lent them a hand whilst spikes were knocked in, ropes were held for them, they were very grateful.
Plenty of space to sit and wait
The barbeque was set up, more briquettes used this time and some extra kindling to assist in the lighting. Compared to last time it was now too hot to cook on, a third too many coals, we had to wait for it to cool down. Back in Oxford I’d bought us a couple of Bream for the barbeque, but this morning we’d not thought about being able to sit out, so had defrosted some sausages instead of the fish! Oh well we’ll find somewhere to eat them soon, I hope.
The kebab rest good, except the cheese melts so doesn’t turn with the skewer
A very pleasant evening sat by the river, the planes changed direction, taking off now and the majority of boats had returned to their moorings.
2 locks, 6.2 miles, 1.5 hrs short of where we should be, 7 in a lock, 2 happy Lockies, 4 hours shore leave, 1 silent boat, 60ft nudged back, 1 bbq, 4 kebabs, 6 sausages, 1 Mrs Tilly stamp of approval.
Brrrrr! Extra coats and a wind cheater required today, grey clouds over head, Brrrr!
Either Oleanna had been pushed in towards the bank a bit or the level had dropped a bit overnight as we were listing a touch this morning, nothing to fret about, it just required a bit more of a push off. What a shame it hadn’t been warmer yesterday afternoon to be able to sit out on the mown grass by our mooring. With the bow pushed out, Oleanna with help from the flow and wind winded to head downstream.
Hello Sue!
Many of the boats along the meadows live here, reserved signs sat in gaps, we’d been lucky to find a space that wasn’t someone’s permanent mooring. Along the last length there was a familiar boat. We waved frantically calling out ‘Hello Sue!’ We’d not got round to sending Sue on WB No Problem XL an email saying we’d be passing and I suspect if the weather had been better yesterday we’d have had a walk to say hello. A jolly wave came back from inside.
Rowing up stream
The locks today would be manned again, the first lock being Hurley and there was the Lockie we’d seen yesterday at Hambledon Lock. He’s a seasonal Lock Keeper and chatted with Mick. The full time staff are down by two from last year as sadly two of the Lock Keepers passed away. The lock cottages are given a spruce up before new people move in, certainly this was happening at Whitchurch Lock as we passed, new double glazing.
Enjoying the water despite the chill
All the beautiful launches and boats were under wraps at Peter Freebody and Co. Only one boat wasn’t wrapped up, the exception to prove the rule, one solitary plastic cruiser in amongst all that varnished wood.
All the curtains closed, nobody home
Down Temple Lock and onto the reach to Marlow. In amongst the seriously big houses and gardens there was an open sided marquee and lots of festoon lights. This was the secret (?) location you would be brought by boat from Marlow if you paid £95 for a five course meal. Today would be the last day in this location, glad we hadn’t paid to sit in our coats and be chilly even if the food was nice, only one welcome drink included in the price Feast Over Flame.
The landing
A space was just being made in the moorings at Marlow, a narrowboat pulled out and winded heading for the lock. We’d considered pulling in to buy a newspaper, but that would have delayed our arrival where we wanted to moor today, which might mean we’d miss out. The crew from the narrowboat came to help us pull onto the lock layby, the pull from the weir making this a little bit tricksy. The lock was made ready by a Keeper, then we were pulling in side by side. They have a mooring at Medmenham and were heading off for a weekends cruise.
Marlow
Now for the long sweep of the river round to Bourne End. Along this stretch is always busy, a widebeam had just pulled out and was wanting to wind as two rowing boats were heading at speed towards them a shout from the support boat had them cut their speed to avoid a collision. We tried to check our speed as we passed a set of markers, we knew we weren’t going extreamly slowly due to the flow so when my stop watch reached 2 minutes we decided we’d actually missed the first markers to time ourselves.
A surprising price for what looks like a small house. Click photo
Round into the lock cut for Cookham Lock. Weekend traffic obvious to us now, three cruisers coming towards us and a narrowboat at the water point. The lock was manned again and here we said our hopeful goodbye to our locking partner as we hoped to find a mooring along the next reach.
Left for the lock cut
Small day boats cruised up and down, the queue for the cafe van and chilled medication was a few deep. Had we have arrived in time to get a good mooring? We passed the first island a boat already moored up, most probably just for the afternoon. Then the next island, one space free, the longer space we were after also free. Quick before anyone else pulled in! We headed past the island to wind and then made our way back up, pulling in easily to the mooring we’d managed to get two years ago on Tilly’s birthday. Tilly’s Island, a Pawfect outside, cat paradise, just so long as no-one else pulled up on the other available moorings.
FIVE and a HALF!!!
Five and a half hours Tilly! Five FIVE FIVE!!!!! YES!!!!! She didn’t manage to use them all before having to retire for a cat nap in her escape pod.
A quick run up a tree, the mooring posts were quickly claimed. She hesitated to venture too far. An extra rule was given, ‘If you do fall in make sure you swim back to THIS island’. The mooring was ideal apart from one thing, no land access, well that’s actually what made it ideal for Tilly, just not for any human visitors. I sent a message to Sam, who’d been hoping to be able to visit us today. Unless she had a canoe or was willing to swim across to the island we wouldn’t be seeing her today. A reply came back that she wasn’t too keen on swimming in the Thames so maybe we’ll be able to see her elsewhere in a week or so time.
Our island, could someone turn the thermostat up please
The afternoon was chilly to say the least, not one to sit out on the bank enjoying our surroundings! I watched Mr Holmes (2015) about a retired Sherlock Homes, dealing with dementia and trying his best to remember his last case which starred Sir Ian McKellen. A very English film, perfect to sit and knit in front of.
One boat had joined us for a while on Tilly’s Island, but they moved off long before dark leaving us alone with nature and the stove lit.
Here’s where we travelled in May
4 locks, 9.8 miles, 2 winds, 2 locks shared, 1 island, £10, 1 very happy cat, 0 visitors, 1 pooped cat, 1 gold embossed Mrs Tilly stamp of approval.
The first boats came past whilst we were still in bed, then the Lock Keeper walked along to check on the moorings which was soon followed by a busy half hour of boats arriving for the lock. We took our time and waited for the rush to abate before pushing off, winding and heading to the lock ourselves.
Getting closer to Henley I was on the look out for the location of my cousin Tim’s first wedding. I was the only bridesmaid and I’d love to know where the reception was held. My cousin Ian has said it was Henley and Sally said it was at The Bell in or near Henley. Well there is an Old Bell in Henley, but not by the river.
The bride and me
There are lots of photos taken with water in the back ground so I’m discounting the Old Bell. This was about 50 years ago, so buildings may have changed, stopped being restaurants, but the proximity of water and bridges in the photos almost certainly won’t have. The Bull in Sonning doesn’t have the right kind of bridges in view so has been discounted. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
The Lockie was jolly this morning. On the lock island there is an extension to one of the houses underway and along the towpath new fencing is being erected, pretty sturdy fencing.
The houses now have grown somewhat. Huge wide lawns sprawl down to the Thames all with their obligatory stripes. Some boat houses look to have big Granny annexes, I would quite happily live in the boat house and let Mick and Tilly have the annex.
So sad the campsites are closed
The water point above Shiplake Lock was free, we pulled in to top up the tank, the tap already taped so as to assist using a long hose. All round the lock island was fencing, only access to the pumpout, elsan and water tap possible. Here there have always been numerous sheds with canvas canopies attached, a rather lovely camping area. With cut backs this year the EA have closed all of their campsites, so the whole site normally very interesting looks very dead. Along with the lack of campers there is also the lack of bins, the rubbish barge removed by the EA.
Vessels of all sorts on the Thames
However at the lock there was a Lockie and a volunteer, in fact today every lock was manned, they don’t have to wait 20 minutes for a lock to go through the whole process of emptying when it’s already empty, so things were much quicker.
Maybe!
Approaching Marsh Lock I kept my eyes peeled towards the west bank for the wedding reception venue, possibly tucked away behind an island, no longer a restaurant, the walkway over the weir possibly in one photo, but the other bridge couldn’t be seen.
Click photo for details
On the eastern bank a house for sale, set way back from the river with terraced gardens and water frontage. It was hard to make out which the house was.
The weir
The Lock Keeper here said how quiet the river was, today was his busiest so far this year. Below the lock the water gets confused, the Lockie had warned us, first we’d get dragged towards the weir then we’d be pushed away, Mick upped the revs to compensate.
A semi for sale, click photo for a nosy
Which side of the islands, we chose to go to the west, see if there were any other possible venues. None, but there was quite a lot of mooring available, too early for lunch.
I hope one day to see this boat out and about
The beautiful Tiddley Pom Pom was spotted on it’s mooring, my Grandfather on my Mum’s side was called Pompom so I always look for it, hopefully one day we’ll see it out and about.
Preparations for the regatta are on going. Well it does take 3 months to set up. All the white posts are in position and planks are hooked on to make the lanes. Marquees spread out on the west bank and stands have been erected. We took the eastern side, access to moorings marked by flags. We decided to carry on passing Temple Island and being passed ourselves by a big trip boat.
Temple Island
Hambledon Lock was also manned and there was plenty of room for us to share the lock with the trip boat. As the lock emptied the stern got closer towards us, ‘She always likes to sit in the centre of locks’ the lady said as she pulled the back away from our cratch. They were heading for Marlow where presumably boat trips will start this weekend.
Oxford our big locking partner
Now to find a mooring, we hoped there’d be space for us along Medmenham meadows. The first field had quite a few camper vans in it, no mooring room. On a bit further and close to Fredrica and Little Fred there was a length of bank that looked possible. We winded and approached slowly. I hopped off, Mick brought the stern in, yep this would be good we just needed to get some spikes in, the trees a touch too far away to be useful to tie to.
Hmmmm……..
Once secure the doors were open, Four hours Tilly! A wind swept Tilly explored for a while, but thankfully she heeded my warnings of climbing trees over hanging the river, or hunting right on the bank. No, it was just far FAR to BLOWY! She gave up and retired indoors for much of the afternoon. The occasional check on the wind was taken from under the pram cover, still not suitable. Here’s hoping we find a suitable mooring with suitable weather for her in the next couple of days.
4 locks, 10.5 miles, 0 reception venue found, 50 year old memory failing, 0 self service locks,1 nicely mown patch, 4 hours of blustery wind, 0 sitting out, 1 Tiddly Pompom, 2 blowy for cats.
A calmer nights sleep last night, however the refurbishment works happening over at The Boat House kicked off at 7:45am. A couple of boats had already moved on, it used to be that the lady from the Council would come round about 8am to collect mooring fees, wonder how long it will be before people sus out which days District Enforcement come round?
Tom keeps making Oleanna growl!
Just as we were untying a chap from the cruiser in front of us came out. Yesterday evening I’d noticed that its stern was loose. Mick had gone out to check on it, the cleat the stern line was attached to had detached itself from the boat. Some creative mooring was needed involving the ladder to bring the boat back in line with the bank. I mentioned this to the chap who asked how loose the cleat had been, he then worked that out for himself as by now I’d untied and the bow of Oleanna was wanting to follow the current downstream, I hopped on board very quickly as the river turned Oleanna round for us.
Umbrella no longer required at Cleeve Lock
We zoomed along the river, sunshine, moody skies, sun again! First lock of the day, Cleeve Lock. A boat was just leaving another waiting below, a day boat from somewhere. They zig zagged into the lock. I checked to see if anyone wanted to press the buttons, they felt they should stay on board, I suggested they pass a rope around a bollard so they didn’t biff about the lock as it filled.
Approaching Goring Lock
A surprise to find a Lock Keeper at Goring Lock, first one since Osney Lock. We penned down and passed the almost empty moorings where Mick once spent some time waiting for the river to come out of flood with Carol and George from WB Still Rockin.
Beale Park on the right
More zoomy pootles passing Beale Park another stretch of river that has lost signs to do with mooring. Have they been taken down by landowners or by boaters wanting to overstay for free? A pause here would have been nice, but we have places we need to be so kept moving.
Click the photo for a nosy
Then approaching Pangbourne the Seven Deadly Sins on Shooters Hill came into view. I tried, I really did try not to take photos but really couldn’t help myself. I think my favourite is the first one heading downstream as it has a balcony tower looking upstream. The next to last one however warranted a photo as it was for sale!
Bye then !
Round now to pull in along the top of the weir for Whitchurch Lock. In the lock a widebeam. They worked their way down, opened the gates and then climbed back on board leaving the gates wide open and no boat approaching from below. Oh well I was closing gates for a narrowboat on the Oxford Canal the other day I might as well do it for these guys too!
He keeps stopping and starting. What’s a cat to think?
A couple more miles downstream to Mapledurham, here we paused to dispose of rubbish and see if the widebeam would close the gates behind them. No! On some rivers it’s acceptable to leave the gates open no matter which way you are going, but the instructions on the Thames locks ask you to close them and it isn’t as if it’s too taxing to hold a button and be picked up by your boat.
Left or right?
Down towards Caversham lunch on the move. Our plan had us stopping here for the day so we decided to go round the back of the island to see what the park moorings were like. One space available, but for obvious reasons as the bank at one end was no more than a paddling pool for the geese. As we’d had lunch we carried on descending Caversham Lock which was manned, not a surprise as this is one of the two locks after turning off the Kennet and Avon Canal to buy a licence.
A slightly more modest house
Our luck was in, there was space on the Tesco mooring. This used to be crammed with boats, then enforcement was brought in and space was available, then the enforcement signs disappeared and the moorings filled up quickly. Today I think we were just lucky in finding a space as most of the boats there seem to have moved in. Mick popped to Tesco for some cat litter, then we decided to push on that bit further, the atmosphere around the moorings not a comfortable one.
At one with it’s habitat
On past the end of the K & A and down to Sonning. Here new bollards have been added extending the moorings, we pulled in on the furthest from the lock. The doors were opened and Tilly was given a couple of hours shore leave. At Pawing last! Treeeeessss!!!! She didn’t half shout about it. Luckily she was too busy to notice me walk down to the lock to enquire about moorings and fees. First night free, the next two £6.50 each then we’d have to move on.
A walk around Sonning might have been nice, but the weather kept switching between sunshine and torrential rain, so instead I got on with catching up with the blog now we had internet again.
PS. Thank you Julie for your comment about the department store in Wallingford. The building used to house Pettits, which was established in 1856. The big store was split up into several smaller shops housing different departments from 2015 onwards. For more history about the company which includes the Rowse family of honey fame follow the Link
Not the best nights sleep. Yesterdays heavy rain made for a twitchy night. Had we been wise to moor here on pins? How high would the river come up in response to the rain? Were our ropes loose enough for fluctuating levels? How would the flow be when we came to move? Should we move? Sooner rather than later?
A lovely morning view
We both checked the internet for the levels. Overnight the river had come up by 6 inches. Would we now be stuck by red boards? The EA website gets updated at 11am each day so we wouldn’t know from there for quite some time. Mick took a walk along the bank towards the lock, wet grass soaking his trousers and shoes. The lock was normal and on self service. Time to make a move and go whizzing off down stream.
Looking back to Days Lock
Untying was planned, the bow rope last to stop us from drifting backwards and with Mick already onboard he’d be able to keep us steady into the flow. However the bow rope was quite slack, Oleanna had risen with the water and was now closer to the bank and this morning the wind was holding her into it. We followed our plan anyway, me trying to push the bow out against the wind, extra umph needed from a bow thruster to get the bow into the flow and Oleanna winding to head downstream.
Blue skies and fluffy clouds
A couple of boats had already been seen on the move and we followed a small cruiser in to the lock cut, they’d been moored on the weir stream overnight. I checked with their skipper if they’d be okay sharing with us which they were. They would head out first and I’d close up behind us. This of course wasn’t needed in the end as a boat was heading upstream and then a Lockie who was gardening appeared from nowhere and did the honours for us, the cruiser pulled in at the service mooring, we carried on.
Blue skies with fluffy clouds, that’s more like it! More boat houses I could live in. The fab big house on the bend near Shillingford still looks wonderful. Maybe one day we should walk the Thames Path which goes right outside the other side of the building so we can see the front door. If we lived there we’d give some ornamental tall grasses a trim to improve the view of the river.
Above Benson Lock there were plenty of moored hire boats, the recent yellow and red boards keeping them off the river, we’ve seen only a couple of Le Boats out and about. The cafe looked to be popular, maybe it would be a suitable place for a rendez vous, but our only choice of mooring nearby was on the weir side of the lock island, there’s a ferry that runs back and forth. However the moorings looked quite full and it would have meant winding to reverse into the weir cut, with the river running fast we didn’t fancy that.
Ouch!
Time to fill the lock, descend and then cross over the weir exit! Earlier this year a boat had lost it’s mooring and been swept towards the weir, only the bridge over it stopping the vessel from plunging over the top. Today the water crashed over the weir, where the navigation meets this there are green marker buoys to help keep you away from the build up of silt. We’d heard that these marker buoys had moved in the floods, so didn’t mark the channel well. They certainly looked to be further over towards the bank and the trees than we remembered, if you kept to the right side of them you’d almost certainly end up entangled in branches. After picking me up, Mick set off, cranking Oleanna up, the aim to pass through the green markers. It turned into a bit of a chicane but we made it through without touching the bottom or the trees, but very close to the buoys.
A space on the low bank
Not far now, we made note of possible moorings under the trees as we approached Wallingford, plenty of room should we need it. On the east bank there was a space, just not quite big enough for us, a few git gaps behind, we called out but no one heard us. The west bank was just about empty. We headed down stream through the bridge and then winded, no chance of running out of room to make the turn here. Upstream we headed, another call out to a narrowboat to see if they could move up, big thumbs up from inside and out they came to pull back six foot so we could moor. Thank you.
Earlier there had been a phone call, but not enough signal to hear anything. Mick had sent a message saying we were heading to Wallingford, he received a message saying a cuppa was being enjoyed at the cafe at Benson. Serious communication problems, Mick went off to try to find signal, Wallingford being added to our list of bad signal. Up on the bridge he got through to a French answerphone just as a car with two familiar faces came past slowing to say ‘Hello!’
Mick, Siobhan, Patrick and Pip
Siobhan and Patrick are friends of Micks from long long ago, they now live in Newcastle, Australia. Most years they come over to the UK to visit family and we do our best to meet up. They arrived earlier this week, had a few nights in London before driving down to stay with a friend in Benson, our cruising plans had just nicely managed to fit with their tour of the UK. Big hugs all round then a venue for lunch was found. We all got in the car and headed off to The Red Lion in Brightwell-cum-Sotwell a very pretty place.
A picturesque pub
Ham egg and chips, a burger, fish and chip and a vegetable tart were all enjoyed, better food and a quieter lunch than we’d had on Monday. Lots to catch up on, news of grandchildren, 70th birthdays, travel plans.
After a cuppa and more chats back at Oleanna it was time for them to head off and meet up with their friend in Benson. So lovely to see them both and Yes we do need to try to put a plan together to do a visit to Newcastle!
Brand new signs
As we’d returned to the boat there was a chap taking down the Town Council signs regarding mooring fees. New signs were going up, still the same fee but the moorings were now going to be overseen by District Enforcement. The chap chatted away, the moorings would be policed three times a week and anyone pulling up even just for the day (free) would need to register on line to moor there otherwise they’d be charged the penalty £100. Later in the day we wondered how we’d manage to register as our internet signal was seriously poor, at times there was nothing at all! This may be a problem.
We’ve only been able to moor in Wallingford by the bridge once before and we couldn’t remember if we’d looked round or not. Looking back on Lillian’s blog posts I suspect we didn’t as I had a migraine the day we arrived. So we headed out to have a bit of a walk around.
St Peter’s
In the early 12th Century Wallingford had many rights and liberties exceeding those of London and it is one of only four towns that were mentioned in the Magna Carta. The very recognisable spire of St Peter’s can be seen by all from the river, it is now a redundant Anglican church. Grade 2 listed it was built between 1763 and 1767, the spire added by Sir Robert Taylor ten years later. A local lawyer, Sir William Blackstone ( who’s books were widely used by the makers of the American constitution) paid for the clock face to be visible from his house. The church was deemed redundant in 1971.
There are plenty of antique shops, one of which Siobhan had remembered from when she worked in the area. We had a good look round at all the things no-one really needs. The shop went on and on forever!
Wallingford Town Hall
A couple of things were needed from Waitrose then we walked by the Town Hall, held up with extra wooden pillars bedecked with plastic ferns. The open area beneath was used for market stalls and the chamber above was used for Borough Courts and Quarter Sessions. Around the end of the 13th Century the town fell on hard times and shrank, only reviving in the 17th and 18th centuries with the vast growth of London and trade on the Thames. During Victorian times Wallingford had 50 pubs whilst only having a population of around 2000. Down a side street where half timbered buildings have been painted haphazardly in green and yellow and we wondered what the department store had been on St Mary’s Street.
Where St Mary’s meets St Martins a row of four terraced houses sits prominently over looking the junction. They are Grade 2 listed and are quite fine, their gable windows on the top floor hidden behind a wall.
Maybe next time we’re here we’ll explore more, there is what looks like an interesting walk around the town Link. So there is more to Wallingford than Midsummer Murders.
2 locks, 5.8 miles, 1 wind, 6 inches higher, 6ft too short, 1 broken cleat, 2 Australian visitors, 1 perfect rendez vous, 0 phone signal, 3 pints, 1 glass wine, 1 unimpressed Tilly, £12 a night, but not tonight, 1 more lovely day with friends, 2 equalised batteries (they sorted them selves a few days ago).
Guaranteed to get wet today so it was hard to muster ourselves for the ready, a passing boat helped jolt us into action. We took the opportunity of being near a tap to top up on water and also empty the yellow water whilst in Isis Lock. The fresh water tank took a similar amount of time to fill as the lock took to gradually drain down to be level with the Sheepwash Channel. A hire boater walked past with a rucksack full of washing, she’d spied a washing machine just a little bit further along the cut, we warned her that her key of power would most probably not work as the services there were for the Agenda 21 moorings. She was still hopeful, but also had sussed out a laundrette a walk away.
We’re ready!
With tanks emptied and filled we turned into Sheepwash Channel, passing under the railway and then a left to head downstream onto the Thames. The flow was quite fast through Osney Bridge and as we approached the lock we could see a Lock Keeper setting it for us, we pulled into the layby and waited for the gates to open.
As we pulled into the lock the Lockie asked what we’d done with the weather and that she’d be adding a tenner to our licence because of the rain. We needed a licence so tied up in the lock gave the Lockie our vital statistics (length) so she could fill out the paperwork. Just as she pressed the button to open the sluices we got a hint of sunshine, she said she’d refund our tenner.
Round and under Folly Bridge, we’d driven over it yesterday, slowly in traffic. Then past all the college boat houses, several rowers out on the river, an eager pair trying to overtake us but having to pull back as a trip boat approached.
Iffley Lock
Iffley Lock, my favourite on the Thames. It’s the position of the lock cottage and it’s gardens that even today smelt of lavender, not normally a favoured smell, but right in this setting. The sluices wouldn’t lift, a walk to the far end required to close them there, then we could work our way through.
Graffiti with a social comment
The artwork under the big bridges have changed since last year, no longer knights but a dragon and on the other bridge a reclined cigar smoking fat cat from Thames Water. Round a few bends we came across a Dutch barge that looked to have slipped it’s stern mooring line, bow into the bank, stern out towards the channel. The engine boards were up and someone was very busy.
At last we’d reached Sandford Lock, only a day late for our Leckenby lunch. The chamber was empty so I walked down spotting a couple of boats heading upstream. I signalled to Mick there’d be boats coming up and went to open the bottom gates. The open sluice light was a fixed green, meaning the lock was empty and I could open the gates. However it was lying! I could see the sluices were up and the lock was empty. I closed the sluices then opened them again, the whole emptying process has to be gone through despite the lock already being empty! This took forever and a while longer. Luckily the crew from one of the boats had had the same problem a couple of days ago, a Lockie had been around who did just as I’d done. Thankfully the gates now opened and we penned the boats up.
Sandford Lock and the King’s Arms
Now our turn. Oleanna in the lock, sluices open button pressed. This all seemed to be taking a long time. As the sluices raised I could see the far side one was lagging somewhat behind. I lowered them again, then lifted them, the far one kept up this time. By now the Dutch Barge had arrived behind us, the skipper came to thank us. He’d got grounded after picking up a lot of stuff in his cooling system and had been trying to clear it as we came past. Our movement lifted his boat enough to free them. He then quickly needed to put pipes back in place so that he could avoid being pulled onto the next weir!
Now the long reach to Abingdon. Boat houses I could live in, trees clinging onto the banks, all the normal moored boats had moved to the opposite bank and the boat that had been sunk for some years has now gone. We wanted to stop for lunch and hoped for a space above the lock, but this was all full, new paving displaying hazard striped edges.
Only NB Escapology and one other in the whole of Abingdon
We pulled in to make use of the elsan and skips as a pirate boat crewed by children came up through the lock. Our turn next, they’d closed the top gate and the level had dropped an inch, the top sluices had to go through the whole thing of lifting carefully before the gates would open. I think I’m going to get used to this as many of the locks will be unmanned this year. 8 minutes to fill, 4 to empty.
House for Sale hidden out of view, click photo for details
Only two boats moored in Abingdon, we headed for the rings through the bridge and really should have winded to have more control coming in. We managed to tie up and sat down for a quick lunch before pushing off again. Normally we’d have stayed for the rest of the day, but we wanted to be further on today if we could.
An improvement as month ago it took an hour to fill!
Out the other side of Abingdon we turned away from the weir and onto Culham Lock Cut away from the danger. Another lock that needed to be reset. A note stuck to the control panel warning to be patient, it may take 20 minutes to fill! I will get used to this. Plenty of time to sit down and reply to some messages.
15 minutes later the flashing green light became solid and I could open the gates, thankfully the lock didn’t take so long to empty. What seem like new instructions on the control panels suggest the lower sluices should be left open. I don’t remember this from when we’ve headed upstream in the last few years and several of the locks have had them raised when we’ve arrived. So I left them up, stepping onto Oleanna I looked back a cruiser just arriving behind us, sorry.
A long sweep round to Clifton Lock, much shallower and far far quicker to do anything. A shame in a way as I was busy admiring the plants in the garden and the long line of wheelbarrows. This would be our last lock of the day. We now passed excessively long gardens, some of the houses so far away they felt like they were in a different country.
I prefer the artists impressions
A new development of two quite ugly executive houses. I grew up in a house with wood cladding and rather like the natural silvering that happens to it, but here it looks like the wood has been treated with what I call ‘paint on poo!’ coloured varnish. You can see some details in the link, but I haven’t been able to find any mention of price!
The lovely Clifton Hampton Bridge
We headed to the field moorings above Days Lock. Here the river runs north to south and when nestled into the bank you can enjoy sun sets on one side and sun rises on the other. A new hedge seems to have been planted recently and then the occasional tree. No signs about mooring, two years ago there were signs informing you of a website to log onto to pay. There were also no NO MOORING signs, so when we saw a length of clearish bank we winded and pulled in, facing upstream to moor.
The wind was quite strong, Tilly not too keen. Well the trees were a long way off!We checked on the river level on Gaugemap 0.07m, a look around outside to try to find a reference point (hard to do when there are no bricks to count), we’d have to keep an eye on the internet. As the evening progressed the wind grew, whistling around us, this was soon followed by torrential rain. By the time we went to bed the river had risen 2 inches, how much further will it rise by morning? A quick check to make sure our ropes had some slack before shut eye.
7 locks, 17.2 miles, 1 full water tank, 1 empty wee tank, 0 rubbish, 1 soggy day, 1 lock keeper, £79 licence, 1 right, 1 left, 1 laboured attempt at mooring, 1 expert execution of mooring, 0 signs, 15 minutes to fill! 10 minutes shore leave, 4 wheelbarrows, 0 stoats.
