Being still today wasn’t going to matter to us. I would be heading off on a train to York for a hospital appointment around midday. Mick was heading to Scarborough to do a turn around at the house plus a roofer, via our insurance company, was coming to look at the leak that had happened a week ago. Originally this was meant to have been Friday, then it got moved to Monday, now it was supposed to happen Tuesday.
How long has this latch been letting people onto the towpath?
We were getting ourselves sorted for some time away from the boat, when my phone rang. York Hospital having to cancel my appointment due to staff illness. I knew I shouldn’t have booked my train ticket yesterday! Oh blimey, I’d been referred back in February, how long would it be before I could be seen? Thankfully a new appointment could be made for two weeks time, I snapped it up. No need for me to head to York now.
Six pairs, only five heading off today
Mick headed off to catch a train to Scarborough, he’d booked himself a flu and covid jab this afternoon at a chemists he’d be walking past, so at least that part of the plan would work. Whilst on the train to York he had a phone call about the roofer. Could they come Wednesday? This was becoming a joke now and really awkward. Mick was already on his way to meet someone tomorrow and staying an extra night might hold up our descent from Marsden. By the end of several phone calls the insurance company have now agreed that we can get the roof fixed as long as it costs no more than £200, but we’ll need a vat receipt, so not just a cash in hand job.
New neighbours
I spent the morning packing up five pairs of socks. A boat came and joined us from the tunnel, they must have come through first thing.
Same as yesterday
Then I walked down the locks to have a look to see what was happening at lock 37E. The answer to that was nothing. The orange fencing hadn’t been touched from what I could tell and the handrail uprights still looked the same. Hopefully something will happen with it tomorrow.
I didn’t have a pint
I walked down into the village. Large disused mills sit in the valley. Further info can be found here. In the early 19th Century, the mills in Marsden included cotton mills, silk mills and woollen mills. Bank Bottom Mill in 1936 covered 14 acres and employed 1900 people, it closed in 2003. It still sits empty over looking the village.
I walked past New Mill, known locally at Crowthers Mill, it was part of the J.E. Crowther and Sons firm and in 1936 had 260 looms and 32 carding machines. It sits in the village centre, just behind the main shopping street, the River Colne running along its northern side.
New Mill
Earlier this year a council report said that a redevelopment scheme for New Mill had become unviable. The scheme was to include light industry and offices. It had received £5.6 million on levelling up cash and £11.7 million from the private sector. Increased costs mean more funds are required. Some of the buildings were due to be demolished to be replaced with light industrial units the majority of the site does not have listed status. It’s such a good location in the village and such a shame with all it’s broken windows.
Socks went in the post and I climbed back up the hill to Oleanna. Tilly was allowed some more accompanied shore leave. Calculations that she’d been working on were tried, and failed. A long stretch at one point, stood on hind leg tippy toes had her only a third of the way up the face of the wall, the stone hard to grip onto with her claws. Thankfully some walkers came along, she decided to sit in a window and contemplate the wall some more. I won’t be beaten!
(Paw x block size) -72.4 /532.86 % 53+4538/tail whip x {987-bum wiggle factor} 45.7
Yarn for pair 41 was wound into a cake and the toe cast on whilst watching the finale of Traitors NZ. I’m pleased with the outcome. But dressing for your fellow contestants funerals, well!
0 locks, 0 mended, 0 miles, 5 pairs on their way, 1 contemplating cat.
Mick has developed a cold over the last couple of days. I’m doing my best to avoid it, so I’m trying to avoid touching things he’s touched, sharing the same air won’t be helping, but I’m hoping to fend off getting it for a week if possible as I have a hospital appointment amongst other things.
A month old!
So this morning I was on tea and Lemsip duty. This is normally Micks job as he’s on that side of the bed and he hands me my tea. This morning I was scrabbling my way back to my side of the bed ( we have a cross bed) trying my best not to spill any tea when the alarm above our heads sounded. A red flashing light and three beeps. This meant there was a fire. Not that we were aware of. I pressed the button to silence the alarm. We took it off it’s base and Mick tried to reset it. It did nothing! Was this a dud detector? Only a month old! Mick spent some of the day checking things on line and it turns out the detector was fine, it just turns itself off when not on it’s base on the ceiling. Why had it sounded? Steam from my tea!
Subjects included Radio Caroline, sausage casserole, cousins in Gravesend and tying Aunts in armchairs! Everyone was present this morning for zoom, even if our internet kept dropping out in a somewhat annoying manor, so we only got part of the story from John about the PS Waverley passing Radio Caroline a few days ago.
This morning seemed to be dry enough to add another coat onto the mushroom vent. Mixing, brushing followed, the starboard side grabrail bits got another coat too. If my knees hadn’t been playing up so much I’d have done the port side as well, but balancing on a gunnel with nowhere to step back to at the moment is not on the cards, my knees are burning whilst doing nothing, so that side of the boat will have to wait.
Current location!
Just about as soon as I’d finished it started to spit! Oh well, I’m trying my best considering my phone currently thinks I’m just to the west of Moscow! Mick seems to have this happen to his phone too at the moment. Are the Russians checking up on us? Anyone else get the weather in Russia rather then West Yorkshire? They are expecting thunder storms tomorrow.
Marsden Mechanics standing out from the crowd
This afternoon I headed off down the Marsden flight of locks to see what I could see at lock 37E, the lock which has closed the flight has a dangerous bridge. Despite it being a grey day the flight is still pretty with the occasional glimpse across the valley.
Apples ready to bob
Below lock 39E there were numerous apples bobbing about waiting for Halloween, none of them had toffee coatings though!
The Blue Peter Lock or Smudgees Lock 37E
Lock 37E is the Blue Peter lock with a shield on both bottom gates. Orange fencing was draped around the tail bridge. On the far side I could see what looked like rotten wood on one of the uprights to the handrail. With a suitably sized baulk of timber and carpentry tools and skills it didn’t look like it would be a long job to mend. Hopefully it will be sorted tomorrow.
I didn’t want to do anymore down hill so headed back up. There are a new cabins that have been built alongside the canal, A Place in the Pennines. The office looks like it is in a blue narrowboat next to the care takers cabin. They look nice and I suspect they have good views from their terraces across the valley.
Views
I walked up the hill, hoping I’d stay on the level more to return to the boat. Past houses all with great views over the top of one another and along to the station. Steep stairs lead down to the platforms, I’ll enjoy those tomorrow!
Socks!
Back on Oleanna, Mick was snoozing by the stove. I got out my box of socks to weave ends in. Three pairs in total. I had a sponsorship for four pairs so have been waiting for them all to be finished along with the next pair and then take more photos. My box is now full. By the end of the evening and the ninth episode of Traitors NZ I’d finished off pair 40, ends weaved in too. 40 weeks 40 pairs! Yarn has already been selected for the next pair, they’ll get started on the train tomorrow.
Hopefully this is an easy fix
0 locks, 0 miles, 1 broken handrail, 2nd coat, 1 very bored cat, 5 siblings, 1 dodgy alarm mended? 6 pairs of socks waiting to be posted.
We’d been warned about the trains going past, their wheels screeching, but it wasn’t much different to us than we’d had the previous night in Diggle. It was nice to wake to sunny skies, yellow warmth gradually lifting above the hills and casting its glow across the field opposite. Much better than alongside houses cutting out all the solar, how fortunate to be able to moor here until the locks open again.
Yum!
To celebrate being back in Yorkshire and still having a boat we had a cooked breakfast. Then there were blog posts to get up to date. Sifting through 350 plus photos of the tunnel took plenty of time.
Our aim today was to wind the boat and come back so that I could get a lick of paint on the rusty patches on the port side grabrail. To do this we decided to wait for the tunnel trip boat to move up to the tunnel for the day, so we’d have more room to wind and not be in anyone’s way.
The Shuttle heading to the station
We were just dropping the covers when one of the volunteers across the way checked we were leaving. Well we planned on coming back facing the other way. “Oh but the trains are noisy here, the moorings above the lock are much quieter.” “It’s only a mooring to stop and have a cuppa after the tunnel there. It’s not a mooring. The moorings are half a mile away above the top lock.”” You can’t moor there!” But we’d asked yesterday and been told we could stay. “Well they shouldn’t have told you that” “You’ll be in the way of boats wanting to use the tunnel tomorrow” Except there won’t be any boats as the locks are closed.
By now Mick was working himself up into a Geraghty strop. If we could carry on down the locks, we’d have already moved down to above the locks last night, but we couldn’t. The telephone conversation I’d had with the chap yesterday regarding the bridge suggested that we’d not be able to descend for a few days. Who knows how long it would take to make the bridge safe, maybe a day, maybe several and the chap we were currently talking to hadn’t known about it at all yesterday until we told him, all he’d wanted to do was sell us a second copy of the book on the tunnel we got last time (a good read by the way). Appointments for us next week mean we’ll not be available to move immediately. Yesterday we’d been told we could stay, we’d not gone into conserving water mode as there is a tap by the tunnel entrance we could use on an evening. If we went to the locks we’d have to reverse back half a mile to the tap. In the current circumstances it made sense to us to stay put. But no, no reason given, we had to move.
Such a blue sky
Should we see what the chap who’d called yesterday would say? No, we’d call Tunnel Control first as it was people there who’d said we could stay in the first place. Well that back fired as Mick got to talk to the same chap who wasn’t going to let us stay. Mick was never given a reason other than it’s not a mooring. Eventually the chap relented a touch so that we could stay until the tunnel trip boat was back on it’s mooring for the day, then we could top up on water before leaving.
Marsden Mechanics
I lifted the pan on the roof, at least that could have a coat of something, then I checked the other patches I’d started to prep on the starboard side grabrail last year but never finished. A touch of rust needed sanding back. Then I applied the first coat.
What to do with the rest of the day? Mick had already got us a Saturday newspaper. We needed a few supplies, so we walked into the village down the steep hill. Today both my knees were complaining after running the 100 meters two days ago, so the down hill took time.
Maybe this would do for the do were going to
A quick look round. Marsden Mechanics, sadly no Mikron shows on at the moment. A couple of charity shops, one with a fab dalek outfit in the window. Fruit and veg. Bakers. Fish and chips. Pubs. Co-op. We did a shop for something to eat this evening and checked what else they did in case we run out of preferred bits and bobs if we end up being here a while. Maybe a delivery would be required. Peel Street Social looked interesting and very popular as did a cafe on our way back to the boat.
If only we could moor here! No where to bang a spike in though
Back at Tunnel End the shuttle boat and trip boat were back on their moorings plugged in to charge up. We waited for the cafe to close before pushing over to top up with water and empty the yellow water tank. Then said a very quick goodbye as we pushed off to make our way to the top of the locks, where the mooring is.
Does not compute!
Here Tilly would be allowed out. Here Tilly was not impressed, her PHD in mathematics was being put to the test trying to work out equations to get her jump correct to reach the top of the wall.
Another boat is moored here, the smoke from their chimney continuous, they also seem to be mid fit out with lots of banging and sawing. The trains are still noisy, not so squeaky, but it’s more the people coming and going from the trains on the Real Ale Trail that is very noisy. At least we’d been lucky enough to have one night on a lovely mooring.
0 locks, 65 ft reversed, 0.4 miles, 1st coat, 2nd for others, 1 walk, 1 steep hill, 2 painful knees, 1 miffed cat, 1 wall too high, 0 trees, 0 friendly cover, I thought we were in the Pennines! 1 Jobs worth requiring some customer relations skills, 2 padlocks, 1 sunny day.
Up early, we moved to the tunnel portal a little after 8am. With the water tank filling we had breakfast, there was hardly likely to be anyone turning up for a few hours and we knew roughly when they’d be arriving.
At 8.30 someone arrived from CRT to unlock the tunnel gates. They asked us once we’d filled the tank to move back so there would be space for the boat coming through from Marsden, they’d be setting off shortly and would arrive around 10.30. We did as instructed and then got on with preparing Oleanna for the tunnel.
I might stay in amongst the washing today thanks
Mick forgets the things we did last time. A similar conversation as the one we had before trying Froghall Tunnel. The pram cover and frame were removed. Cratch cover taken off and stowed inside. Poo buckets removed from on top of the gas locker and popped in the well deck, space was made for me to be able to sit there. Next the nav lights were removed just leaving the wires wrapped in lx tape sticking out of the cabin sides. Bags of coal flattened on the roof, all planks, poles etc put into the gutters. Top of the chimney removed, the stove had been left to go out overnight.
Horns at the ready
I got a message on my phone, could I please call someone back from CRT. I first thought it might be to do with our near miss yesterday, however it was about a closure ahead of us. There was a bridge at one of the Marsden Locks which engineers had deemed not safe. The bridge is the only means of getting to the offside to open and close the gates. It would be looked at again on Monday and hopefully they’d have us on the move again soon. The flight is kept locked to help conserve water and you have to book a passage down. Our journey down the east side of the HNC had been planned around various things. So hopefully they will be able to get us down on suitable days. The chap on the phone told me all the good things we’d be able to do in Marsden over the weekend. There are worse places we could get stuck.
Their return journey through the tunnel
At 10.15 I could see a light in the tunnel. At 10.30 the bow of a hire boat appeared from the dark. A lady stood at the front, three chaps in high-vis at the stern, a dog started to bark it’s head off inside the cabin.
Checking we’ll fit through
David and Stuart came over to see us. David checked to see if we knew about the Marsden flight being closed, did we still want to go through the tunnel? Yes please, even if we have to wait a few days it would still be better than going the long way round to Yorkshire. Oleanna was measured, the top of the pan covering the removed mushroom vent deemed to be the highest point. Depth under the water. 1ft 4″! No chance!! They tried again, 2ft 4″, more like it. Across the top of the cabin at the bow, 4ft 11″, just under the 5ft we’d been told about for Froghall Tunnel. We’d fit.
David, Mick and Stuart
Gas turned off, cuppas made for those who wanted one with the electric kettle. Safety briefing given. Tilly was noted, yes we would be able to climb a ladder if needs be and walk 1.5km. We passed, now we just had to wait the required 3/4 of an hour after the last boat had left before we could go in, this helps fumes to clear.
Going under the railway
With all cabin lights on, we hoped Tilly would have a better journey through the tunnel than she did last time. I actually don’t know how she fared as I didn’t hear her or see her once in the 90 minutes it took us to get through.
Neat archway
On our first trip through on NB Lillyanne Mick had been at the helm, I sat at the stern along with the chaperone from CRT who gave us a good running commentary along with guiding Mick around the S bend in the middle of the tunnel. Three years ago there was still social distancing, Oleanna’s stern was just big enough for the chaperone to be with Mick at the stern, or the chaperone could be at the helm. Mick opted to sit at the bow with me so he could enjoy the trip through rather than spend all his time concentrating. This was quite a noisy affair, every bump or scrape could be heard, we winced quite a few times but were then relived when there was no noticeable damage.
Sprayed concrete and a giant spider
Today Mick opted to be at the helm. David and Stuart would be with him at the stern and I would be alone at the front. There were two of them today as Stuart is in training for Tunnel Control, but needs to know the tunnel too.
Stone
A large lamp was positioned on our gas locker, fire extinguisher and various gas monitors were positioned at the stern. A large crate of stuff and a spare light were popped in the bow with me.
At the bow I had a cushion to sit on, camera and phone. I’d wanted to set up a time lapse, but because of yesterdays drama had totally forgotten about it. I’d also forgotten to give the cratch window a good clean! Oh well, at least we were here and about to go through!
At 11.15 Oleanna was pushed out. A chap who’d been walking up the Diggle flight yesterday had brought his family to watch us. I said we’d race them to the other end. Then we were in the tunnel, brick lined arched roof. Then the roof line flattens out where the rail tunnel crosses over head to travel for the majority of the way on our left hand side.
Craggy reflections
The tunnel was authorised by an Act of Parliament in 1794. Construction began a few months later. Within two years cost saving measures and water levels pushed back the tunnels completion date. Thomas Telford took over and drew up a new plan for the tunnels completion and in 1811 it opened. By 1943 it was closed but with the restoration of the canal it reopened in 2001.
That bit goes up some way
Three other tunnels head through the hillside. The first rail tunnel was built in 1848, a second in 1871 these were both to the east of the canal tunnel. The canal was used to remove spoil as the other tunnels were dug and adits were created between them. Then a third rail tunnel was made, this one crossed over the canal tunnel from the east, runs along side it then back over to the east side before resurfacing at Marsden. This was built in 1894 and is the one used today.
The white lines are the drill holes
The interior of the tunnel varies so much. Arched brickwork, Brickwork with ribs giving it more support, several different types of rock. On some stretches you can see where holes were drilled to insert explosives, here there and everywhere.
There are ties holding up the roof, sections where concrete has been sprayed over the surface to keep it more stable. Stone block sections.
Hello!
Small tunnels head off to the east, adits leading to the old rail tunnels where a CRT van follows your progress. Some of these are well lit, and a high-vis chap stood waiting for us, he could also be seen on one of the walk ways that cross overhead to the current rail tunnel. The accompanying van may soon be a thing of the past as new communications have been installed. On our roof we’d had a radio repeater added for our journey. Every now and then there would be something similar attached to the roof of the tunnel, glowing like a UFO as our lights caught it. At each adit the person in the van acknowledged us, but then David would radio Tunnel Control with our location. The system is still being tested, but once it is okayed the driver will no longer be needed in the other tunnel.
Our progress was steady. Quite a bit of bumping about. We discussed this later no, Mick wasn’t aware of as much bumping as I was at the bow, maybe on Lillyanne we’d done a similar amount but not been aware of it.
As with just about all tunnels there are wet bits. I’d put full waterproofs on knowing how wet I’d got last time. One spout of water pulsated towards the cabin side as we passed. Other water features were just a wall of water to pass through. At each one I would stand up and try to position myself under the cratch board, I still got quite wet! Mick at the stern had David and Stuart stand up at one time blocking his view.
This way out! or should we just go straight on?
Small pieces of wood could occasionally be seen on the roof. These were Leggers boards, they had numbers written on them so that the leggers would know where they were. I also spotted quite a few red plastic cotton reels attached to the walls, no idea what these were and forgot to ask about them.
David gave Mick instructions when we reached the S bend, slow, to the right a bit, don’t be tempted to turn just yet, go over a touch. All very helpful instructions and making sure we avoided any overhanging sections of wall that might get our cabin sides. Now Mick was asked to pick up pace, the trip boat was due to come into the tunnel at 1pm and it would be good if we were clear before then.
We popped out into the sunshine of West Yorkshire at 12.45 an hour and a half after entering.
All the kit was removed from Oleanna quicky and we pushed over to the off side for lunch. Over lunch we discussed what to do. We wondered if we could stay here on the offside, there’d be no boats heading for the tunnel over the weekend due to the Marsden flight being closed. Mick went over and chatted to the volunteers (they have 100 on this side of the HNC), he was told it would be fine to stay.
Marsden Tunnel End
As we put Oleanna back together we waited for trains to come past. An educated guess on a train from Manchester was waved at, Josh was most probably on it heading to York for a weekend with Andrew and Jac. I’d sent him instructions on where to look as soon as he was through the tunnel, but it being his first time on the train route he almost certainly missed us.
The Cat H&S committee looked round. Perfect for Tilly apart from one thing, the railway line. Yes there is a good fence that she’d not be able to get through. But the fence was certainly climbable, it also has several trees very closeby which she’d be up like a shot. So very sadly cat shore leave wasn’t going to be on the cards.
Reminds me of a panto I once designed
Mick swept the chimney and cleaned the stove out before relighting the fire. I prepared a beef and beetroot curry, starting it off in the oven. We think the thermostat has got problems in the main oven, after an hour the curry had dried out and starting to burn around the edges. More water was added and it was then moved to on top of the stove to carry on cooking slowly. A very nice meal in the end with enough left over for a meal in a day or two.
0 locks, 3.3 miles, 5677 yards underground, 2nd boat moving on the HNC (excluding trip boats), 2 volunteers 1 cat in amongst the washing, 1 sodden cushion, 1 soggy pair of pants, 1 wave to a nephew, 3rd time, 1 flight ahead closed, 90 minutes in the dark, 0 3rd edition wanted, 1 much better day than yesterday.
Just the last eleven locks up to the summit today, that’s all. They shouldn’t take us long to do. We already knew we might have trouble with one pound being low, it’s been low the last two times we’ve come this way. Our map suggested it would be about 2.5 hours, we added a bit more for good measure but we should still be moored up in time for lunch and to give Tilly some shore leave.
Escape pod!
Before we pushed off I got Tilly’s Escape Pod out of the cupboard and zipped it together, she was straight in it before I’d even got the top on. Should anything go wrong in the tunnel tomorrow we’d need the pod at the ready, so best to get it ready today and let Tilly move back into one of her favourite places, only when the doors not closed!
Mick walking up to the lock
The first two locks were the same as the one’s we’d come up. Although Lime Kiln Lock can’t quite be classed as just a HNC lock. It has Saddleworth Railway Viaduct right across the bottom of it. Then there is Mytholm Bridge just below the lock too. The approach is slightly skewed and I half expected to mess it up, with a bywash coming towards me at the same time, but no it was pretty easy. Up Oleanna rose in possibly the most picturesque lock on the west side of the canal.
Another fender to add to our collection!
We pulled in at the services, topped up on water, the washing machine running, emptied yellow water and refreshed Tilly’s toilet. The weed hatch was also checked. No weed but a fairly new looking rope fender! Mick walked up to set the next lock.
The Diggle flight have single big bottom gates, similar to those south of Banbury on the South Oxford. All the paddles are on the lock beam side of each lock. The bottom paddles are geared and have a pawl to keep them in place. The top paddles wind up as normal but the pawl on these is a flat bar that you need to angle in to slot into place to hold everything up.
Views
We worked our way up the first two locks without too much bother. Then there was the expected low pound. It was VERY low. Mick lifted the paddles to fill the lock, no chance of getting over the cill without more water. He walked up to the next lock and ran water down through the lock. He also called C&RT to check it would be okay for us to do this, they were fine about it. The next pound looking pretty healthy, it wouldn’t stay that way as the one we were trying to raise was really quite big. Mick phoned me, would I prefer him to be at the helm through a low pound, so for us to revert to the A team. I did, so he returned and helped me climb off the boat with the aid of the stern lockers. We needed so much water to fill the pound enough to get over the cill. I walked up ahead and once Oleanna was over the cill and in the pound I closed the top paddles on the lock, let it finish emptying and opened the bottom gate, hoping the pound was deep enough to get across. Thankfully it was. Once Oleanna was in 27W I returned to close the gate at 26W.
More views including a low pound
The same process was now required to rise up the next lock 27W, the pound above very depleted of water. I walked up to 28W and ran water down, Once over the cill Mick managed to encourage the gate to close behind him, the flow of water into the pound helping and saving me the walk back down to do the job myself.
That’ll need a bit more water!
Coming across
Same process at 28W, each pound above was lowered just enough to get Oleanna from one lock to the next. Each time, each pound above looked that bit higher than the one below.
All the stone work
Getting across from 28W to 29W was a little bit more tricksy, getting over the bottom cill took more effort. All the way up the flight we’d had walkers stopping for a chat, saying how they’d never seen the pounds look so low, it must happen especially for us! A chap possibly with a dog had walked up, not chatted then sat down on the bench to admire the view.
Lock 29W we will never forget you!
I stayed to see how we’d do. Opened the top gate when it was level. A guestimate on how deep the water was over the cill had been met. I closed the top paddles and waited to close the gate. We now should be fine.
Mick gently brought Oleanna forward to the cill. Her bow crossed it, but then she came to a sudden stop. Possibly the cill or was there something under the water stopping her. We’d need more water to get her over whatever was stopping her. I started to walk up to the next lock, Mick put Oleanna in reverse to get away from the cill.
Mick shouted. ‘QUICK, really QUICKLY!‘ He’d not been able to get Oleanna to reverse. She was sitting on the top cill. The bottom of the lock was doing it’s best to empty itself!!
I ran. I ran. The towpath curved around the pound, a small bridge to cross over the bywash, up the side of the lock was steep. Which paddles to lift first? I have no idea if there was any water in the lock or not. One bottom paddle was raised, followed by both top paddles, then the second bottom paddle. Now all I could do was gasp for air and watch through the camera 100 meters away.
Mick had climbed off Oleanna, he wound the top paddles up as Oleanna was stopping water from getting past and into the lock chamber. The first paddle dropped and needed lifting again. He was wondering should he get Tilly off, would she be nice and comfortable in her escape pod, easy to pick up. But adding weight to Oleanna would be a really bad thing.
S**T!!!!
All we could do now was watch, hope there was enough water getting into the lock. Mick walked to the bottom gates, checked the paddles were down, they were, but there was still a big leak. From 100 meters away the angle Oleanna had reached was alarming, I suspect it was more alarming close to. Had we done everything in time? Would she rise back up? Or had she reached the point of no return.
I could make out cabin sides again
What felt like a good ten minutes actually it was only one. Oleanna’s stern seemed to be coming back up. Taking a photo to check whilst out of breath and with shaky hands was hard to get in focus. Thankfully down at lock 29W Oleanna was floating again and Mick had to get back onboard to stop her from hitting the bottom gates.
Floated back into the lock behind the cill mark
Mick rang, ‘She’s floating!’ ‘I’m going to lift the engine board to check if any water got into the engine bay’. He disappeared from view, then reappeared, waited a while then gently brought her out of the lock. THANK F**K for that!! The gate closed behind and Oleanna made her way across the pound to 30W.
Over the cill away from danger
The only witness to her very near sinking was a dog who’s owner had sat admiring the view all the time a major drama had been happening behind him. As the lock gate closed, the man stood up and walked away with his dog, totally oblivious.
Up 30W, we had a moment as the lock levelled out. It had possibly only been a matter of a few seconds between saving the situation or sinking. If Oleanna’s stern had got any lower and water got in through the engine vent that would have been it!
The next pound was a touch low. We made sure the top paddles were left open until Oleanna was well clear of the cill.
I walked on to 31W. My phone rang. It was a jolly chap from Standedge Tunnel control checking to see if we’d made it up to Diggle yet and were we still on for our booked passage tomorrow morning. Two more locks to go. I asked if I should report our incident to him or was it the west side of the HNC we should contact. West side, he was the East.
Last lock of a the day
Grandpa Greens looked attractive as we came up the next lock, but we refrained from indulging. I have to say I was extremly relieved when I opened the top gate on lock 32W and Oleanna easily passed over the cill and onto the top pound of the HNC.
Now, which tree first?
We moored up. The only thing out of place inside was a galley drawer. Tilly was checked on. What’s all this with the big hug! Yuck!! It looks great here, just get on and let me out!
Pan off, attachment of doom on
The flight had taken us 4.5 hours, it was time for a late lunch. The sun was out. Time to carry on with prep work for the grabrails. The attachment of doom was attached to the drill and I ground back the fertaned rust patches to bright steel. Then another coat of fertan which could work it’s magic overnight.
Our new roof light
11 locks, 1.6 miles, 1 extremely close call, 2 boaters who will never close top paddles on a low pound again! 100 meters personal best, 1 canine witness, 1 horrible day, 29W reported, 1 grab rail prepped, 4 hours, 2 many pesky woofers!
An alarm. Breakfasted and some none boaty clothes on we set off to walk to Greenfield Station which was a bit behind us. Today we were going to the seaside. With split ticketing Mick had managed to get our fares at a reduced price, but it did mean that we had three tickets in each direction. One train to York where we had time to pop into Sainsburys to pick up something for lunch, that pack up I’d planned on hadn’t happened.
York Station
We’d left the Pennines in drizzly merk and whizzed through the Howardian Hills in sunshine. Opposite us sat a couple who referred to OS paper maps as we travelled. They obviously had quite a bit of knowledge of the journey, but were miles off where we actually were. Mick and I managed to stay quiet. The amount of water in the low lying fields was quite impressive. Small lakes had formed, the land had been marsh land way back when and after recent feral weather has returned to its former self.
The south bay
Where to have lunch? It was a touch breezy but we opted to walk down to the Town Hall and enjoy the view across the South Bay. The tide was coming in, a spring tide that had most probably cleared the entrance to the harbour at it’s lowest.
Show and Tell is the latest Alan Ayckbourn play, his 90th. We’ve had two of the company staying in the house for the last eight weeks and now we were on a convenient train line we’d decided to make the effort. A story of a man who plans a birthday present for his wife of a play performed in his own house. Alan describes the play as an homage the theatre. I suspect there are a few observations I made that others would not, were they intended by the playwrite? Or was my own experience being played on?
Interval medication
A very good afternoons entertainment. Out of the company of five actors I knew four and it was time to meet the fifth, Olivia, who’s been sleeping in our bed at the house. A cuppa with Bill and Olivia in the bar after the show and chance to say hello to Paul Kemp for the first time in decades. All the performances were great, Bill unnervingly looking like my Dad and Olivia having the role that initially reminded me of Evelyn in Absent Friends here’s hoping her career flourishes as Tamsin Outhwaite’s did.
Thank you Margaret.
A direct train called us back to the station and let the actors get on with their break between todays two shows. I managed to knit a heal and get part way up the leg of a sock as the world darkened around our train.
Tilly was a touch hungry. The stove relit and then an Indian takeaway ordered, very nice it was too. Far too much for one meal, the spare rice and spinach saved for tomorrow.
0 locks, 0 miles, 3 trains, 90th AA , 1 sea view picnic, 4 out of 5, 1 boat moved, 3 not 2, 2 mains 1 side, 2 glasses of wine, 1 very good day.
Having had yesterday off, we needed to catch up no matter the weather today. Last nights weather forecast had been for the occasional light shower. Well the rain was lighter than yesterday, but it hung around so could hardly be considered occasional! We pushed off shortly after 9am with our hoods up.
Heading to 7W
Lock 7W another lock that was rebuilt during the restoration of the canal at the millennium. Only one top paddle worked so it took quite a while to fill. Todays locks as yesterday were all gentle. Only a slight nudge to the stern and hardly any pull towards the top gate. But today there were obvious bywashes coming in below most locks, a nudge off course that needed compensating for, thankfully the B team managed without too many bumps.
Pylontastic
When the canal was restored a pylon was in the way, so the channel had to avoid it’s legs. A narrowing was needed and you now pass directly underneath it, an obligatory photo.
Maybe on Sunday we should have done our shopping, then carried on to the service block above 8W. We did this on our first trip up the HNC, I think one other boat was moored there. There is a long line of bollards and you should not moor on a water point, but we’d pulled back leaving room at the lock landing and room at the tap. So far we’ve only seen the Community boat moving and one boat moored up away from a home mooring.
Heading into the lock
There was something about the water point here, I couldn’t quite remember. The key of power didn’t open the box. I spied a hole at the top, just the size of a handcuff key. I tried it, then Mick tried it, putting down the claw hammer he’d brought to prize the door open. Several turns of the handcuff key did the trick and we could top up on water.
So pretty
This is our third time up the HNC, I don’t think we’ve ever managed to do the next stretch in sunshine, it’s always been wet. The first time we’d enlisted Kath and Sean to assist us up to the summit pound as I was bandaged up and one handed at the time. It rained and rained most of the day. Then in 2021 I remember us being bundled up and getting soggy whilst waiting for news on where I’d be painting the set for Chippy’s panto Rapunzel. Today we’d be soggy again, but avoiding yesterday had been a good thing.
Scouts Tunnel with cyclist
Through Dave Scouts Tunnel, our tunnel light assisting a chap on a bike with trailer who had got stuck where the towpath had got narrower. We suggested he get himself a front light.
Ducks paddling about in the garden
We passed soggy gardens. The water gradually getting more and more peat coloured. Church spires stabbed themselves into the grey cloud that seemed to be getting lower, but then we were getting higher with every lock.
Spire
Below Roaches Lock we pulled in. Well we tried to pull in several times! Here the bank used to be all over the place, now it looks neat and there are mooring bollards. However the depth leaves something to be desired! This should have been our mooring last night, we’d made it for lunchtime. With the bow just about in we tied up for some food and a sit down, it didn’t matter that the stern was only just close enough for us to tie a rope, we wouldn’t be long even though Tilly was making eyes at the friendly cover.
Lock walls tied back
Onwards. The bywashes seeming to get stronger, yet a few pounds seeming to get shallower. Several planters filled with herbs and strawberries, some chicory was spotted in one all for use of people passing by.
Weed hatch master class
After one slow pound we paused before exiting the next lock to check the weed hatch. A full demonstration was given by Mick. Since the cover was adapted a few years ago it has become a little harder to lift out as it now requires both hands to lift it to access the prop. So A steadying head on the outer lid of the access is needed, this explains why Mick’s cap is as filthy as it is! He selected one of our two prop mates, the thinner one and started to delve the depths. Only the smallest amount of weed was found on the prop. Conclusion the pound being shallow was the problem.
A boat!!!
Three years ago this section of the canal was filled with sunshine, wonderful views through the trees stopped us in our tracks. Today we just carried on, the merk surrounding us. A third boat was moored up by the little marina by the handy Tescos after Frenches Bridge 80, still only 1 moving boat seen.
Once up Wade Lock 21W Mick requested the boat hook. the top gate was clogged with tree detritus. He lifted as much as he could so the gate would open enough for us to pass through, then Oleanna had to glide through the remainder, plenty of branches and leaves.
Time to moor up. Easier said than done. There are 2 day moorings on the offside, one boat already there, but a tree overhangs the rest of the mooring. Then a length of bollards on the off side. We pulled in before a boat, the bow came in but the stern simply wouldn’t get close enough. We moved up to try between two boats, managing to get close enough to manage to reach the bank. That would do us, we caught up with where we should be. A long day for us nowadays, but the kind we used to do frequently.
I’m 9 now!
Sorry Tilly. The mooring was a no go despite it looking fantastic. Trains pretty close and on the other side a car park and busy road. Two years ago today we managed to moor on one of the Cliveden Islands a special treat for Tilly’s seventh birthday. Sadly today wouldn’t be so good. Instead her birthday treats included some Webbox sticks and the Secret Passageway being opened up for her to explore with ease. It also stopped me from getting wound up because she was trying to dig her way behind the sofa to access it. You should see what’s down here! It’s brilliant. I don’t know how I managed to get her so easily when it’s normally impossible! That’s because it’s your birthday Tilly. Magic things happen on birthdays!
15 locks, 5.3 miles, 2 days in 1, 1 pylon, 2 jaunty moorings, 1 birthday wish come true, 1 secret passageway, 9 YEARS OLD!
The rain started yesterday evening and I think it has been a constant for a least 24 hours. Our current schedule has days off built into it, but they are just about all spoken for. At least the wind had subsided a bit this morning.
We waited to see if the rain would ease. Maybe it would, maybe we’d get a soaking. An early lunch with hope of moving on afterwards. Waterproofs donned. Engine on. The yellow water needed emptying, that was none negotiable.
Mick came in doors, he’d been thinking, so had I. The rain was very big drops, after five minutes out there he’d got pretty soaked. The plan was to do 8 locks today, we’d be dripping wet before the second lock. Could we do an extra long day tomorrow instead? If the weather eased off then we’d head on, but we both knew that wouldn’t happen, even so we both kept our padded waterproof trousers on for much of the day.
Well that’s pants!
Tilly agreed, the weather was SO bad even I didn’t get to go out! You wouldn’t have got to go out anyway, we’re in a car park!
The day was spent doing a blog writing master class with Mick. Writing a post is one thing. Adding the photos, changing fonts to black and bold to make them easier to read is second nature to me now, but it all takes time.
Quality control.
In between giving guidance I watched A Million Little Pieces2018. A jolly little number about an addict who after injuring himself ends up in rehab, he falls in love and battles his past to save himself. As I say a jolly film, not. But good to knit in front of.
Ready for the oven
This evening (still raining), I had a go at my own version of the chicken, ham, leek dauphinoise pie I bought in Northwich the other week. It turned out pretty well, very tasty. Not too healthy, but then dauphinoise potatoes never have been with all that cream. Very indulgent and not a standard midweek meal and I did manage to use nearly every pan we have! I’ll write it up when I have time, and next time I’ll see what it’s like using soya cream instead to reduce the fat content.
Ready for our tummies
Mick had spied that a new series of The Traitors started tonight on BBC 3. It’s also available on demand, so that’s our viewing sorted for the next ten nights. But what a measly prize pot $70,000, that’s just over £33,000 a third of the UK prize pot!
0 locks, 0 miles, 1 wet Mick, 1 dry Pip, 1 dry Tilly, 1 very nice meal, 1 long day tomorrow, 1st NZ season, it’s not the same without a castle!
Dukinfield Railway Bridge to Tescos, Stalybridge, Huddersfield Narrow Canal.
Turning our backs to Manchester
Dr Zeus, Baby Shark, Recorded Commentary and Ceonothus were topics on the Geraghty zoom this morning as well as the trip on the PS Waverley. There is a post being written about Mick’s trip, hopefully it’ll be posted soon.
What’s happening here?
Time to move onwards. Right at Dukinfield Junction, under Asda and out the other side. Only what was that? Was there someone in the water behind the white thing. A fridge freezer and a fisherman who had an inflatable seat, said he can go where others can’t. He can also keep boaters on their toes!
Squeezing in to Lock 1W
Below Ashton Lock 1W of the Huddersfield Narrow Canal there are two signs, one welcoming you to the HNC the other to the Ashton Canal. There is also a very small sign under the bright blue one saying that the HNC is a SSSI. I only know this as I zoomed in with the camera.
SSSI
Mick headed up to empty the lock. The locks all have bridges over the bottom end, but no walkway at the top gates, so you need to walk all the way round to lift paddles. We soon got into the routine that once Oleanna was high enough I’d step off on the off side to lower the paddle whilst Mick opened the top gate, saving his legs.
Dark and narrow
Above the first lock there is a very narrow channel with several bridges over it, the going is very slow along here, very slow.
In the depths of 2W
2W and 3W are quite close together. Mick emptied the bottom one, then I was a little bit surprised that the bottom gates didn’t close behind Oleanna. Where had he gone? Nearly 11ft down I couldn’t see much. I called out to check he was okay, no answer. I waited. Maybe if I stood on a locker I’d be able to see more, but I really didn’t want to hoik myself up there. I waited, still nothing, was he alright. I called his phone. Of course he was alright, he’d headed up to the next lock to set it emptying. He had signalled to me what he was doing but I hadn’t seen.
These locks have what look like pepper pots by the top gates, these are posh air vents from the paddle gear.
A tree hung low over the canal. A broken branch or two, some sawn, some just broken. Our higher chimney would be a problem. We slowed, reversed so that Mick could take the top off, all the time Oleanna drifting and doing her best to get her own back on a particularly annoying branch. It snapped but didn’t come off! Mick tried too as we went under it, it cracked a bit more, hopefully no longer a big pointy sharp thing ready to attack paintwork.
Pretty impressive
On the side of a building now used for thai martial arts there is a great mural by AKSE-p19 a Manchester graffiti artist. This one was painted in 2022 and is of Kru Steve Moore a senior instructor at the Sitsiam Centre.
Over the River Tame Aqueduct, the narrow channel flowing pretty speedily below us.
Now in Stalybridge, the lights and railings dating from when the canal was reopened in 2000, all more grown over than when we were last here, only the official towpath side has a clear path, despite there being lights along the offside too.
Are they coming down?
As we rounded a bend towards the next lock we could see a bow of a blue boat sitting under the road bridge. A community boat from Dukinfield. No sign of movement, were they having their lunch and was this why all the locks had been full in front of us? Soon a head popped out from the bow doors, another at the stern. It was a training day and yes they’d winded and tied up to the railings under the bridge to have lunch. Wonder how many times they do this and find themselves in the way, not many I suspect.
Pebble dashed lock walls
The next few locks into the heart of Stalybridge were rebuilt. The first has pebble dashed sides and an emerging view up to the hills ahead. The next is still original stone work, followed by a full concrete lock. The newer locks have both top paddles on the one side, saving walking round.
Pennines ahead!
We popped up much to the delight of a little girl on Dads shoulder, so many questions, just at the age where Why? or What? start every sentence. Surprisingly there were no boats moored outside Tescos. We pulled in on the off side by the car park, then quickly remembered about the goose pooh! Mooring rings sat in pools of the stuff, eerk! But this side would have less foot fall and is easier to get a supermarket trolley to even if you have to climb through the railings!
Up into Stalybridge
Late lunch followed by a big shop. Yesterday we’d made sure we had everything we needed for a meal today just in case we didn’t manage to get to Tescos in time. It turns out we were here in time but we had to rush to beat them closing.
Last lock of the day
A very nice roast chicken enjoyed, Oleanna nice and cosy. Then the wind started to howl and rain started to pour. Mick checked the ropes before bed, leaving us with some slack should the level rise overnight, but this did mean we’d get rocked to sleep by the wind. Here’s hoping it’s not too wet tomorrow!
For my 65th birthday my sister Marion and her husband John bought me a trip around the Isle of Wight on the paddle steamer PS Waverley. My 65th birthday was in 2023 and the trip was booked for September that year. We had a mooring booked for Oleanna in Lincoln Marina and were all ready to go. Three or four days before the event the cruise was cancelled due to forecast high winds in the Solent and the Channel. So it got re-arranged for a year later.
PS Waverley in Scotland. Photo credit my sister Anne
Also in Scotland
These two photos were taken by my sister Anne who lives in Helensburgh and sees the Waverley regularly.
Built in 1946, the Waverley took day trippers around the Firth of Clyde and nearby sea lochs until she was retired in 1973. She was then purchased by the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society for the princely sum of £1, restored to her original 1947 appearance and put back into service. She now carries out an extensive summer timetable of passenger excursions, calling at many seaside piers and ports around the British coast. Here is a link to her website https://waverleyexcursions.co.uk/ . She is the last passenger carrying seagoing paddle steamer in the world.
Oleanna was moored in Macclesfield. I left Pip and Tilly in charge and headed off to the railway station for a direct train to Southampton. The train I was booked on was cancelled. However I had noticed this when I checked online that morning and caught a train leaving an hour earlier. I arrived in Southampton four and a half hours later and walked to our hotel. I met Marion and John in the bar and we elected to eat in the hotel restaurant. Then an early night as we needed to be up and away by nine in the morning.
After breakfast we walked to the station to catch an excursion bus to take us into the port of Southampton to the cruise liner quay. There was the little PS Waverley moored in between two huge passenger cruise ships. We were welcomed aboard and found some seats outside on the top deck.
Waverley. View from the bus
Shuttle bus from the station
Time to set off. The crew let go the forward rope and the Waverley went into reverse gear. The bow moved away from the wharf whilst the stern was held by the still attached stern rope. We use this procedure on Oleanna sometimes if things are a bit tight or if it’s windy. We call it a “Reverse Andy”. Then the stern rope was let go and the Waverley did a 180 degree turn with the assistance of a tug and headed off down Southampton Water, the tug keeping alongside us for a while.
Ecorted by the tug
Looking backwards towards Southampton. Cruise liners behind.
There were a few yachts around and a couple of motor cruisers to keep us company, people on board taking photos of us.
On approach to Portsmouth we slowed right down and a pilot boat came alongside from astern. We needed a pilot to get into the port of Portsmouth. A rope ladder was thrown over the side and the pilot stepped onto it and climbed aboard.
The Waverley’s normal berth at The Hard, next to Portsmouth Harbour station wasn’t available today so we headed further into the port past the Naval Dockyard. Both the UK’s aircraft carriers, HMS Queen Elizabeth and HMS Prince of Wales, were at home base moored next to each other. There were also five destroyers there too. A couple of tug boats came to join us, one in front and one behind, and escorted us to the continental ferry port where a berth was available for us. We came to a halt a few metres from the side and the tugs pushed us gently in to moor alongside. Throwing lines were thrown to the waiting staff on the dockside and the main ropes followed. The ropes were arranged in what we on Oleanna call “innies” (as opposed to “outies”).
HMS Queen Elizabeth and HSM Prince of Wales
There were four bus loads of Portsmouth passengers to board. This took some time so we went down below to the café for some lunch. On the menu was fish and chips, macaroni cheese and chicken jalfrezi. I had the fish and chips.
Normally on the Isle of Wight cruise the Waverley calls at Ryde and Yarmouth. But these ports weren’t available today. There is unofficial speculation that this is because in the past the Waverley has had a “hard landing” there so the Isle of Wight ferry company has banned her from docking at its ferry berths.
Isle of Wight ferry
We set off round the island in a clockwise direction. John was pleased about this because the last time he did this trip they went anti-clockwise, so this gave him a chance to unwind!
I went to have a look at the engine. It is oil fired, converted from coal in 1956. It is a Triple expansion steam engine (of course!). The engine room, and indeed many features of the ship, reminded me of the “Castles”: the Humber ferries I used to go on as a child when visiting my Grandma in Hull. They too were paddle steamers, built in the 1930s.
Steam Engine
Engine
We stayed not far off the coast of the island, taking in the views of the various towns and villages on the way. Portsmouth to Ryde ferries crossed our path. I wished that I had brought our hand held VHF radio to listen to any communications taking place. This would have been especially interesting while coming into Portsmouth, listening in to the pilots and the tug boats.
Once we rounded the easternmost tip of the island at Bembridge we turned west and into the breeze. The top deck got chilly and extra layers were put on. We sailed close to Sandown and Shanklin, sounding the ships horn as we passed Sandown Pier. It was The Waverly’s farewell goodbye for the season. A loud deep throated steam driven horn, I thought it would be good to have one like that on Oleanna.
Marion and John
We passed Ventnor then St Catherine’s Point, the most southerly point and the headwind picked up further. The sea got lumpier too. I don’t think Pip would have enjoyed this bit of the journey. It was choppy for an hour or so. It was really quite cold so we went downstairs to the bar and enjoyed cups of tea and slices of cake. There were some in the bar that looked a bit like they had been there all day!
Cake!
Bar
Approaching The Needles, the most westerly point of the voyage, and suitably refreshed we went back to the top deck. Obligatory photos were taken. The lighthouse was first constructed in 1859 and automated in 1994. There was a rocket testing base at The Needles where ICBM rocket engines were tested. It closed in 1971. Up until then it was a secret. It is now a National Trust property.
The Needles
Now heading east again and the wind was behind us. Past Hurst Castle on the mainland. This is the narrowest point of the Solent where we passed a tanker ship coming the other way.
It was a lovely trip along the north coast. Passing Yarmouth we had to avoid a Lymmington to Yarmouth ferry. We carried eastwards along the Solent, passing Cowes and Osborne House, Queen Victoria’s prefered holiday residence.
After a while we were approaching Portsmouth again. Again we slowed to pick up a pilot, the pilot himself taking pictures of the Waverley before he boarded. We then turned into Portsmouth, past the navy ships and two tugs again came to assist in docking.
Tug. Pushing rather than tugging.
This was the final destination of the day for the Waverley, she was going to stay overnight here then the next day head off on her last South Coast voyage of the season, to Swanage and return. There were buses laid on to pick us up. A couple of buses took some passengers just the short distance to the ferry port terminal. Then they returned to take us to The Hard, near where John had parked the car. A third bus would take people who wanted to return to Southampton railway station. We had to make sure we got on the right bus otherwise we would end up in the wrong place.
Then back in the car to Marion and John’s home in Eastbourne in time for a nightcap and bed.
A great day out! Maybe next year we’ll do a Scottish trip on The Waverley’s home waters.
