Northwich 2 day Visitor Moorings to above Saltersford Lock
With all the rain yesterday we both were checking the river levels this morning. The Northwich reach had actually gone down, but above and below had risen, obviously there had been someone lifting sluices on weirs to control things.
A little bit of extra time was used to start catching up on the blog. It takes time, usually whilst having breakfast, but on longer more interesting days (well more interesting for me) it can take a while longer. Certainly sifting through photos eats up time. Plus early starts to cruising limits writing time, so I had a lot to catch up today.
Town Bridge
Time to stock up on food for a few days. The nearest supermarket is Waitrose so we went to see what yellow stickers there might be.
Crossing Town Bridge we noticed the different gates at either end. On the west bank is a sliding gate that crosses the road to stop traffic, on the east side there are two gates that hinge closed. Then the bridge would be able to swing to allow taller boats to pass through. The bridge was opened in 1899, designed by J.A.Saner and was the first road swing bridge on floating pontoons and the first electrically operated swing bridge in Britain. In 1924 it was closed for several months for repairs and strengthening during the period known as the Northwich ‘big lift’ when buildings and roads were raised to combat subsidence. In 1998 further works were undertaken, the bridge being lifted off and put in a car park for repair. A crane was brought in which had been used to build the Millenium Dome, but the weight of the Town Bridge at 330 tonnes and was too heavy for the crane.
Winding
Back on board we had lunch before pushing off, we wanted to find a mooring for Tilly. Mick winded Oleanna, a lady watched from the marina and congratulated him on his expertise, then we were heading down stream back towards the boat lift. The new pontoon was even more chock a block than yesterday, NB Lyndsey Jane’s stern sticking out around someone’s bow fender. The pontoon below the boat lift on the other hand had lots of space, but we wanted a better mooring still, no pontoon would suit us, and Tilly better.
Under Town Bridge
Yesterday the flag at the boat lift had hung down, not a breath of wind to go with the rain, today it was dry but blustery. Waterway Routes showed us three possible moorings around a bend downstream of the lift. We passed a weir guarded over by cormorants and under another swing bridge.
The lift looking drier today
The first mooring had potential, we’d have been on our own. The second the bank was a touch higher, more difficult for me. The third was longer and lower, already with two boats moored, but with bollards, grassy field and bunny potential above it, this would do. We winded to face the current and pulled in, positioning ourselves in the middle away from the other boats, but space for two more to pull in either side of us.
Winnington Swing Bridge
Rules given, the doors were opened. Hmmm! It would be good if I didn’t have to share this outside with woofers! I’m not sure Tilly even made it into the field above, at least she had some outside time.
A weir and sluice gate
I managed to get up to date with the blog during the afternoon. Then our attention turned to our cruising plan for the rest of this year. Today a notice regarding the Huddersfield Narrow had looked promising, this route would cut down the miles of our cruise back to Yorkshire, but would our current set up work there? I’ve never had to clear the prop on Oleanna, in fact I’ve never actually cleared a prop on any boat! Would I even be able to reach the prop to clear it? This is one question that needs answering before committing to going over the HNC.
I’m not too sure about it here!
Ease of transport links are important over the next six weeks as appointments and engagements need to be met at different ends of the country. We also want to meet up with good friends and need to give them an estimate of where we might be. Having three possible routes is making this really quite tricksy. I think tomorrow we’ll need to knuckle down and make some decisions.
0 locks, 3.2 miles, 2 winds, 1 straight on, 2 boxes wine, 1 outside rejected, 2 loose ropes, 0.7m, 3 ways, but which one to go for?
Forge Brook Aqueduct to opposite Northwich Quay Marina, River Weaver
The first boat to pass today
The alarm was set early, well you just don’t know when a coal boat might arrive. It turned out we could have had some more time tucked up in bed. Having a booking for the boat lift and we were going to be joined by our friend Lizzie for the day meant we’d be moving today no matter how hard it was raining!
The Geraghty zoom covered subjects such as Clare Baldwin, ping pong, the 70’s BBC drama Canal Children, Ballet Shoes and tuna. We kept an eye out in case NB Halsall arrived, but there was no sign of them. A message came through, it would be mid to late morning. Oh well, we’d got half a tank of diesel and a bag and a half of coal, hopefully we’d be okay.
A skip
Covers were rolled up, full waterproofs on we set off around 11am. At the Anderton Services we wanted to drop off some rubbish, but there were a couple of hire boats there. One lady offered to put our bags in the bins for us, which we accepted whilst hovering at the end of the services. Recently there have been several posts on social media with photos of mountains of rubbish around full bins here. Today the main bin area was cordoned off, instead there was a big skip, far more capacity for all those boats coming off the Bridgewater Canal where bins are almost none existent.
Halsall arriving
We made our way to the lift waiting moorings, pulling in behind another boat also booked for the 12:15 passage. Lizzie arrived too, everyone starting to drip a bit from the amount of rain. Mick went to see if he needed to check in, there are cameras so they know when you’ve arrived. Just as he was walking back to the boat NB Halsall was pulling up next to us. Mick was informed by the lift staff that we’d not be able to fuel up if we wanted to go down the lift, there were other boats coming up and there simply wasn’t time. We explained to Rachel on Halsall maybe we’d be able to see them elsewhere in a week or so. Then a more amenable chap came and asked if we’d like to change our lift booking to the next slot, there was space. Brilliant, thank you! We could now top up on fuel and coal and maybe even have a warming cuppa before our descent.
Rachel brought Halsall close again, we tied up. Brolli in hand the diesel tank was filled to the top and three bags of Excell were popped onto Oleanna’s roof. We were their last customer, they pushed back to wind and head back the way they’d come. £1.06 delivered in the rain, you’ve got to love coal boats.
The soggy three
Tap on the roof, waterproofs back on, it was time to descend the lift.
This would be Oleanna and Tilly’s seventh and final wonder of the waterways. Mick and I had been down the lift on NB Winding Down back in March 2011! (our blogs were a bit different back then) Back then it was unseasonably warm, today it was seriously WET!
We followed NB Lyndsey Jane onto the aqueduct that leads to the boat lift. Under the gate that cuts the rest of the Trent and Mersey Canal off from the lift. This then closed behind us.
In front we waited for the two gates to lift that would connect the aqueduct to the lift caisson. Once cleared we could proceed into the caisson. Stern ropes attached to the side and tied off, engines off.
Gates closing behind us
The gates behind us came down. One gate seals off the aqueduct from the lift, the other seals the water into the caisson. Once these are closed the water in the gap between them is emptied out.
Hello over there!
We then had a bit of a wait for things to start to happen. Then slowly the caisson started to descend, a very slight shuddering could be felt as we lowered. A boat was ascending in the other caisson, passing halfway as you’d expect. Looking upwards it felt a lot further than the 50ft we’d travelled between canal and river.
Another wait for the gates out onto the river to lift. The chap on board NB Lyndsey Jane said we could go first, he’d rather wait for the mud to finish dripping off the bottom gates. We obliged, any mud would very soon get washed away by the rain.
A blast of our horn as we came out onto the river and turned left. We pulled onto the 24 hour mooring where there was a good amount of space. With the covers back up we quickly retired inside to attempt to dry out and have some food. The shower was filled with coats and life jackets on hangers, some drip drying required.
Whoops!
What to do with the rest of the day? We walked up to the visitor centre a good look at all the information about the lift, I’m going to save that for when we go back up. There was also a really good collection of vintage arcade games. Why I don’t know. We refrained from exchanging money for tokens to get them working, but just looked instead. One box was filled with puppets around a house where accidents were waiting to happen. I’m fairly sure this chap shouldn’t have been balancing on the banister rails like he was.
Soggy at Anderton
Back at Oleanna we decided to head on to Northwich. It was still raining, we were still wet, might as well carry on being wet for a while longer. The river is quite rural on the way to town. There are a lot more moorings than there were in 2011, a new pontoon was chocka block. We carried on hoping there’d be space for us somewhere. Thankfully between the two bridges opposite the new (to us) marina there was a space just big enough. Phew!
A dry off, mick lit the stove, we had a glass of wine whilst we decided what to do for food. The nearest place was Relish Tandoori , just behind the flats we were moored infront of. They do a Sunday Buffet which seemed to be popular, we opted to join in.
Yum
Poppadoms, followed by a selection of starters, then six or seven main courses, all help yourself. Fresh nana bread too. Everything was very nice, better than most take aways we’ve had over the last few years. Only criticism was it all could have been just a touch hotter, they needed better candles! For the three of us with a drink each it came to just over £50.
Here we waved Lizzie goodnight as she headed back to her hotel. What a totally soggy day, but a rather good one. Thank you Lizzie for joining us.
Oleanna has now travelled the seven wonders of the waterways.
* Jim Shead’s Seven Wonders of the Waterways I think were slightly different, if anyone can remember them please let me know as the website no longer exists.
0 locks, 2.8 miles, 1 left, 1 lift, 7th wonder of the waterways, 4 siblings, 1 on the metro, 82 litres diesel, 60kg Excell, 3 very wet boaters, 1 very bored cat, 4 moorings in a day, 6 dripping sleeves.
A couple of days ago a new notice had come through from C&RT, Saltersford Lock on the Weaver was now open. Then yesterday a notice regarding Hunts Lock also on the river suggested things were progressing well, an update would be issued on the 11th. It was now worth continuing with our plan to descend the boat lift, fingers crossed the work at Hunts lock does the job.
Tilly got some shore leave in amongst the dog walkers, the field alongside the mooring here was being used by a chap on his bike cycling round it with his two woofers running along behind. He did several laps whilst his little boy trailed behind only managing one.
LOTS of food!
There were things in the fridge that needed eating up, especially the white pudding we’d bought in Leek, so we had a leisurely morning, no need for lunch today!
With my knitting out the back we pootled onwards, quite a few boats heading our way, Bramble Cuttings was empty, was it last night? There were two boats moored opposite which suggested it had been occupied.
NB Huffler back on the main land
As we came past the flashes, we passed bows with NB Huffler. They had crossed the Ribble Link with our friend Chris (The Pink Hat Man) on NB Elektra quite a few weeks ago, then they were caught by the breach on the Lancaster Canal and the broken sea lock on the link. Not a good situation to be in. A few days ago they were lifted out and transported by lorry to Lymm where they were put back in to be able to cruise back to their home mooring for winter.
We then hoped we’d get to see another boat NB Halsall the coal boat, they were due to leave Park Farm Marina today heading for the Anderton Boat Lift. But there was no sign of them, we expected they were a long way ahead of us. However later on in the day we got news that they were actually behind us, maybe they’d catch up with us before Anderton.
Waiting patiently for two to come through
As we reached The Broken Cross Pub we could see a boat coming through the bridge, Mick pulled us over to the side where we trod water opposite the moored boats. A second boat came into view, we waited. As the chap came past he made a comment about the reeds that were encroaching from the offside, ‘if they weren’t there it would be a lot easier! Just what do we pay our licence fees for?!’ Well if that bunch of reeds was removed the only difference would have been that we’d have been able to wait for him to come through the bridge 60ft closer to it. So no difference to us really.
Approaching Tata
Coming through by the Tata Chemical works, cranes were busy on the site of the new power station that is being built. Right by the canal was a new structure which looked like a futuristic Swiss cottage on stilts wearing a very large roller on it’s roof. As we cruised past we could see several very large fans underneath , around 6m across, maybe this is a new version of a cooling tower? More info on the sustainable power station can be found here.
We finally pulled in, half an hours cruise from the Anderton Boat Lift, a little distance away from another boat giving Tilly some extra towpath. Across the fields bells could be heard, most probably from Great Budworth, someone was getting married maybe. However this was soon overtaken by a new large structure being erected on the nearest farm, steel work being hit into submission and then bolted together. This noise continued until dark.
That is when we got the sound of fireworks. Maybe it was the wedding, distant music could also be heard. If it was coming from the wedding the couple must have had a very big budget! Then after maybe 15 minutes we got fireworks again. These went on for quite sometime with a big finale. Another gap, then more. What was going on? Was there a firework convention going on?
It turns out that tonight in several locations across the country there were big firework festivals/competitions. Manufacturers showing off. The one we could hear was most probably coming from Arley Hall, there was also one in Blackpool and one at Catton Hall near Swarkstone at the other end of the T&M, 50 odd miles away. Shame we couldn’t see any of them!
0 locks, 7.5 miles, 3.75 hours shore leave, 3 hours of fireworks, 15 minutes dinging, 5 hours steel fabrication, 1 sock up to the gusset, 1 more pair sponsored.
Some shore leave before we moved on today, with the rest of the locks through Middlewich to work through we didn’t want to be too late leaving and Tilly obliged by returning in good time.
Bee and clover
Such familiar water this stretch. by the railway bridges there used to be a winding hole just long enough for Carefree Cruising boats to wind in before returning to base by Elton Moss Bridge, but now you’d be lucky to be able to turn a 40fter there, so overgrown.
Nice Lock
Nice Lock 67 had a boat just leaving it, if there was going to be one lock I’d operate on the Cheshire Locks this would be the one. I hopped off with a windlass, Mick closed the top gate and I wound the paddles up at the bottom end. This was quite often the first lock we’d go through on NB Winding Down, hence it’s Nice name, but it also was likely to be the last lock too, then it got named Nasty Lock! But now it’s always Nice.
Knitting as we cruise
Down the Booth Lane Locks meeting a couple of boats heading up. The last of these boats had a hobbling lady walking the towpath, she should have caught a lift as they were only going to have to wait at the next lock for the boat ahead of them to go up.
Statics avoiding looking towards the canal
More new houses going up and some static caravans are also being plumbed in right beside the canal, no canal view though as very few of their windows faced the water.
Mick as blue as the sky
What a glorious day to be boating. Sun blue skies and not too hot. Should we have a mooring today where we could have a bbq what would we eat? There were some sausages or mince, both frozen. Maybe we should see what the new small Morrisons could provide for us.
King’s Lock
We pulled in close to the fish and chip shop, two houses along the way for sale. Well except it was quite hard to pull in. A new length of armco looked appealing, but either there was a sunken vessel there or a ledge, we tried further along, and again. Finally we made it close enough to the bank. The gate to the road leads just that straight onto the road, no pavement just a little gravellyness then the busy road. Morrisons was out of various items, but there were some burgers and a bag of mixed peppers. I checked the free from items. That bread looked nice, ah no wonder it was Rye Bread, first ingredient, Wheat! No wonder they had quite a lot of it!!
We’d originally not planned on stopping in Middlewich, but to carry on straight through, but now we were moored up we had lunch. With one boat just ahead of us when we pushed off again we waited to use King’s Lock. This boat was going onto the water point then up onto the Branch, we had another two possible water points to choose from.
winding a 70fter
Just as I was about to bring Oleanna out from the lock a 70ft hire boat arrived, were they turning up to Wardle Lock and the Branch, no just winding. With a boat on the water point and a CRT work boat the other side of the junction this limited their turning circle. Their wind taking ages, but they managed it in the end. We followed them down to the Middlewich three.
With the opportunity of there being volunteers at each lock I decided I’d like to work the locks as I’d only need to do half the work. However there was a long wait. Another hire boat was under tuition coming up the locks so we and the boat ahead had to wait. The volunteer wasn’t going to let anyone through the lock until the uphill boat had cleared, both boats could have gone down in that time.
I let Mick bring Oleanna round the bend towards the middle lock
The 7/8 chaps on the hire boat in front seemed to know what they were doing and were soon on their way. The volunteer I suspect was a touch deaf as I asked if I could fill the lock. ‘NO!’ He then gestured to wind a paddle up! We were soon on our way down, I checked that there were other volunteers at the locks, ‘Yes’ marvellous! That was until the other two volunteers walked up to the top lock and said the middle lock was filling. Even my walking pole didn’t suggest we’d need assistance, they then vanished into thin air. Oh well the first time I’d been looking forward to having assistance at the locks and it wasn’t going to happen.
Last of the narrow locks for a bit
I opened up the middle lock, the chaps from the boat ahead lifted a paddle to refill the bottom lock for us. I worked us down the middle lock then Mick and I swapped over for the bottom lock, I could do no more.
Yarn bombed posts
We pulled onto the next water point and toped up the tank, emptied the yellow water and then made ready to push onwards. Big Lock had just been emptied, but we were soon on our way down. We’d totally forgotten about Middlewich on an afternoon, especially on a Friday, we’d thought we’d be through by early afternoon, but that pause for lunch! Saturdays it’s shareboat central at the junction, Fridays seemed to be hire boats! Mental note for next time, avoid certain days, avoid afternoons and the volunteers will clock off as soon as either the chippy opens or after the last hire boat is through.
Big Lock
It was getting quite late, we’d thought of heading on to Bramble Cuttings, not that much further, but on a sunny Friday afternoon there was likely to be no room for us. So when we came across Croxton Aqueduct and the towpath widened out and there was plenty of space we pulled in. Tilly was given an hour whilst we got ourselves ready for a bbq. The burgers I’d bought were really quite fatty and sent big flames up from the coals, charring everything. I gave them a few minutes rest away from the fire before finishing them off which seemed to calm them down a touch. A lovely evening sat out none the less watching and eating as the sunset.
Just about ready to start cooking
9 locks, 5.9 miles, 1 straight on, 1 new edge too shallow, 1 nice lock, 1 knee still able to do the T&M hurdles, 3, 2, 1, 0 volunteers, 1 closed council tip, 4 fatty burgers, 4 pepper haloumi kebabs, 1 bowl coleslaw, 1 sunset.
Below Plant’s Lock 41 to before Rookery Railway Bridges 158A
Up early, breakfasted, exercised, covers rolled up and outside ready to push off before 9:12, which is when our extra crew arrived. Paul Balmer had kindly offered to help us down the Cheshire Locks today and had made his way up from Birmingham to join us. Once his ruck sack was stowed inside Oleanna we were on our way. Me at the helm, Mick and Paul walking ahead to work the locks.
Starting on down
We’ve done the Cheshire Locks many times before, our share boat was based in Sandbach for her first few years. From what we can remember we’ve never done them all in one day before. It also depends on where you consider the locks starting and ending. We’d already done the top lock yesterday, our aim was to get down the two locks at Wheelock before stopping for the day, there are still 5 more locks to Middlewich Junction, then three round the corner to Big Lock, we don’t count these last 9.
Bye Mick
Having two crew made things pretty quick, both working a lock then one walking ahead to set the next whilst the other stayed to close up behind. I just had to keep up with them both!
Chatting
It was a grey dreary day, with a slight amount of wetness in the air every so often, but that didn’t put us off. Dropping down to Red Bull services we had Police Officers asking if we’d seen a chap in red shorts covered in tattoos, we couldn’t help. Mick dropped the rubbish off as we went past the bins. Only one other boat moored between the tunnel and the bottom of Townfield Lock 46, where were all the boats!?!
Hall’s Lock 49 a cruiser coming up one of the paired locks
The chaps hopped back on board to ride to Church Top Lock, Mick taking over the helm so I could sit down. Mick and I over the years have developed hand signs to convey information. Boat coming up, boat going down, walking, can I have a lift, I’m walking ahead is that okay? On several occasions Paul came to relay information to me, Mick had already beaten him with our signs. It didn’t matter as it was nice to have someone to talk to.
Looking back to Hall’s Lock
Whilst Oleanna and I dropped down inside each lock Mick and Paul chatted away up top, boats and trains most probably the main subjects covered. Gradually as we worked down hill the canal lost it’s bright orange hue from the tunnel, the only residue was left as small drips on Oleanna’s clean roof!
Crew ahead at the next lock waiting for a boat to come up.
At Hall’s Lock we met an up hill boat at the paired locks, both in use today. Then we passed a few more through the Lawton Locks, crew from other boats helping where needed.
Click photo for details
Everyone on board to cruise to Rode Heath where there were a few boats moored. Above the lock a house for sale. Normally this would be a stopping point for us, but it was still too early even for a lunch break.
The oven was heated up and just before the two Pierpoint Locks a tray of sausage rolls were popped in the oven. I’d guessed at cooking and cooling time, but the chaps were a touch too quick with the locks so we had to wait for them to cool down for a while before tucking in. What was in the Quality Street tin to follow? Apple flapjack of course, this years cruising fuel.
57 varieties
There was Paul’s list to go through, there’s always a list of questions and subjects to cover. We also had plenty of photos to look at too. Maybe if we’d have stopped ten minutes earlier we’d not have been second in line for Lock 57, but we were.
I remember them!
One boat coming up, another to go down, then two coming up sharing. Were these the two we came across earlier this year, in a similar area? Almost certainly. I had to call Mick back to help get Oleanna off the bottom, too many boats mooring in this pound and not enough carrying on up to let water down.
Sitting in the locks I got to see things from a different angle. The buffer plates in the T&M locks vary quite a bit, the most interesting ones most probably the oldest ones. Looking back, picking Mick up every now and again I spotted that quite a few sets of steps have had the stone treads turned upside down, the worn area now filled with mortar, but a new flat step on the top.
Clover
Earlier this year, possibly at Maddocks Lock 59 I took a photo of all the daffodils between the paired locks. Today the grass is filled with clover flowers, many past their best.
That red buoy upstaging everything!
At Clear Water Lock 63 we took our time exiting. Paul wanted some photos and the depth below the water measuring. A boat hook came in handy for measuring. The depth of water up to my chest, the first rung of the lock ladder at our cabin height!
I got to see a lot of backs today
The pound below the lock was a good 14 inches low and Oleanna took her time to cross over the bottom cill. A boat waited below. As Oleanna exited I’d need to turn her to miss the boat, the bow thruster came in handy as there was nowhere for the stern to go. I very nearly ran out of space as the chap on the waiting boat had stopped waiting, and was heading straight towards the lock, reducing my manoeuvring room all the time! He’d apparently asked Mick why I was taking so long, was there something around the prop? No there was only just enough water under my boat making her unresponsive. Maybe I should have just stopped and waited to see how far he was going to bring his boat. I could have had a go at him, but just said Hello instead, life’s too short to deal with an impatient Twonk head!
In the last lock of the day
Mick would climb back on board when ever there was a slightly longer gap between locks so I could have a sit down. Only two more locks to descend, down to Wheelock, then we’d be on the flat again for some distance. Onwards we cruised to just before Rookery Railway Bridges where there are mooring rings and some rather good friendly cover for Tilly.
Paul, Pip and Mick, the Cheshire crew
Another cuppa and some flapjack to keep Paul going before he headed off to walk to Sandbach Station. Thank you so much for your help today Paul and for your company.
25 locks, 7.9 miles, 9 sausage rolls, 12 pieces of flapjack, 2 many low pounds, 1 short ladder, 1 impatient twonk, 2 emergency safety pins, 5 hours 20 minutes, 1 hour shore leave, 1 big fish pie, not enough time to award a Mrs Tilly stamp.
Well that new detector! It’s position on the ceiling directly over my head whilst in bed was a problem last night. Around the big test button is a ring of green light which flashes every 30 seconds or so. All detectors tend to flash, but this one was SO BRIGHT that it felt like the aliens were invading. Yes I tried turning over and I did have my eyes closed but the light flashed through my eye lids time after time after time! I’m aware that I was awake trying to ignore it for at least two hours, thankfully then I fell asleep.
Byebye, see you again somewhere sometime
We couldn’t be tardy this morning, we’d something to tick of the ‘Next Time’ list. A quick chat with Mike on NB Alchemy before we pushed off. It was really good to be able to meet up, until next time, happy cruising for the remainder of the year.
As it says, Middleport Pottery
A mile and a half to cruise and we pulled in on the visitor moorings at Middleport Pottery, with a booking for Harecastle Tunnel this afternoon we hoped there’d be enough time for us to enjoy the pottery. You can wonder around the site for free, but if you pay then you get to go inside various rooms and workshops, if you pay more you can get to go round the working Burleigh Pottery Factory. We opted for the Heritage Trail. With green stickers and a key fob we could guide ourselves round the pottery.
What a great model
Middleport Pottery was the first pottery to be designed by an architect, the whole process of the factory taken into account with the products flowing through from one area to the next. In came the clay by boat, off loaded, it was cleaned, made ready for which ever process it was destined for, slip for casting, put through a pug mill for Jiggering, Jolleying and pressing into various shapes and patterns. Drying. Biscuit firing in bottle kilns, patterns applied, glazes painted or dipped on, dried again, then into the Glosting bottle kilns for their final firing, then packed up and loaded back onto boats to head of to be sold.
Dane returning with a hold full of people
Here in Stoke they had both clay and coal, the canal alongside aided the more reliable transportation of the finished goods. Dane normally sits outside the pottery, but today it was on a cruise through Harecastle Tunnel. Those on the trip were on board from 10am, we passed them coming back a little after 2pm.
The last remaining bottle kiln
There’s a wonderful model of the factory how it originally was, made in ceramic (what else!) this shows the seven bottle kilns that used to be in the factory. Three for biscuit firing (the ceramics could be stacked close for firing) then four for glost kilns (the ceramics needed more space once glazed so as not to stick together in the firing). When the clean air act came in in 1956 new methods of firing were found, gas taking over from coal, tunnel kilns were developed to save having to stack everything up around a bottle kiln, blocking the door and then lighting fires to raise the temperature to over 1000 degrees. Six of the original bottle kilns were demolished, the one that remains does so as it was a part of another factory building and not stand alone.
Hi there
We saw the old offices. Phones rang as you walked past, if answered you’d get the story of an office worker. We watched a film about the factory processes making all the pottery, then looked at examples of Japonica tea sets, Churchill Toby Jugs, other fancy items.
Rooms now taken over by independent studios
Round past various independent studios we had the opportunity to look round a quarter of the moulds used which had been stored in roof spaces around the factory.
Commemorative plates, Toby Jugs, vases all sorts, an amazing collection of jelly moulds too. A mould could only be used so many times before a new one had to be made from the master.
Looking upwards between the brick walls of a bottle kiln
The Placing House and Bottle Kiln were next. In the placing house Saggers (rough clay containers used to protect the finer pottery whilst in the bottle kiln) were meticulously packed to make the most of the space, then they were carefully positioned in the bottle kiln, piled high one on top of the other right to the top. More delicate items such as plates would be packed nearer the centre of the kiln. Then once full the door would be bricked up and fires lit around the outside of the inner skin of the kiln, ramping up the temperature to a maximum of 1000 to 1250C, this was maintained for two to three hours before the kiln was allowed to cool down. As soon as it was possible to enter the kiln, the men would start to unpack it dressed in many layers to protect them from the heat. Pay was based on the quality of the goods coming out of the kiln, so if a firing went wrong the wages weren’t paid.
Sinks
The bath house has a wonderful line of sinks, just enough room to stand in front of them, no elbow room. A deep deep bath tub sat in another area. Was there just the one between all the workers, or several? During WW2 the bath house was one of eleven areas earmarked as air raid shelters, it could hold 38 of the 500 employees, thankfully the shelters were never needed.
The Lancashire Boiler produced steam to power the steam engine next door which kept many things moving in the factory.
Cuppas
Time for a break and some lunch. We could have had oatcakes, we could have had some Lobby (a beef stew) but we opted for jacket potatoes and a cuppa each obviously in suitable cups. Very nice and better than the potato wedges we’d had at Shugborough a few weeks ago.
Boots
Next we just had time to look round the Lodgekeeper’s House. A two up two down house with projections of people telling stories of their lives in Stoke. Very interesting, but the rooms lacked a little bit in atmosphere.
It was now 2pm time to push off, we’d the tunnel booked for 3pm. We’d enjoyed the pottery, however it still sits on the ‘Next Time’ list as I’d now like to do a factory tour and have a peruse around the independent studio spaces. The seconds factory shop was still WAY too expensive for anything to be purchased. I’m glad that around 30-40 years ago I visited the factory when it was closed and riffled through skips with a friend, we were students at the time. Items that were not too faulty in our eyes were pulled out and later I was allowed to visit my old school and give them all a clear glaze and fire them. Not the most expert job, but it did give me a set of Burleigh ware bowls and various other items which today would have cost me several hundred pounds.
Following
We pushed off. At Westport Lake a hire boat pushed out in front of us. They went slowly, we followed at tick over, would we make it to the tunnel by 3pm? Thankfully yes. They pulled in ahead of us and a Tunnel Keeper came to talk to them. This took quite a long time as their English wasn’t so good, getting them to shine their head light and sound the horn was testing the keepers patience a touch. As soon as he’d decided that they’d understood everything he came to talk to us.
Can you show me your light and sound the horn? Please?
‘Your lucky!’ Why? We’d booked. ‘Your not in the book’. But we booked. I checked the confirmation email. The Tunnel Keeper and Mick were both correct. We had booked and we weren’t in the book for today because Mick had booked our passage for the 11th! We were lucky as someone else had booked and we could tag along behind them, phew!
More head room than at Froghall
We whizzed through our safety briefing and were let into the tunnel a few minutes after the hire boat. Our normal speed would be reduced by their normal speed, go too slowly in a tunnel and you loose your steering and end up biffing the walls. Once we’d cleared the portal the doors closed behind us and the loud drone of the big fans kicked in to help ventilate the tunnel. It took a few hundred meters for us to be able to hear each other again.
Around 50 minutes later we emerged at the Kidsgrove portal. The tunnel Keeper here doing his best to keep a group of school kids off the CRT boat. The kids then turned their attention to us, the usual ‘Can I have a ride Mr, I’ve never been on one before’ ‘How much did it cost?’ ‘I could run and jump onto your boat from here’ We talked to them, suggested it would be a bad idea, hoping that we knew they’d not try, but you never know. They soon walked up the steps towards the station and forgot about us as we did about them.
At the junction
The hire boat had tried turning long before reaching the junction, but managed to get round after a bit of faffing leaving the way ahead clear for us. We dropped down Plant’s Lock 41, the first from the summit pound, and chose where to moor up, easy as we were the only boat in the pound.
Down Plant’s Lock
A visit to Lidl was required, then Mick headed to Tescos for bits Lidl don’t do and to pick up a prescription whilst I set about preparing cruising sustenance for a busy day tomorrow.
1 lock, 5.5 miles, 1 tunnel, 1 pottery finally visited, 0 shore leave AGAIN! 2 jackets, £15 for a 2nds cup, 11th September, 2 lucky boaters, 1 straight on, 1 batch short crust, 1 tin of oaty apple energy, 1 folded bit of card over the flashing green light!
Below Engine Lock 4 to Bridge 118, Trent and Mersey
Last night a cow had kept mooing. It moood a long time. Could we help it in any way at midnight? Hopefully what it had been complaining about disappeared not too long after we got to sleep. How would you find out which farmer the cow belonged to?
Twit twoo
No shore leave much to Tillys disappointment this morning. We knew we were already following at least one boat towards the locks back down into Stoke, coats on as it was quite grey we pootled onwards. It’s a long pound to Planet Lock, terraced gardens come down to the canal. Someone had been out to trim the sprigs from their neatly sculpted bushes, we wondered how they reached over to trim the edge nearest the canal. An owl watch us go by, guarding the door at the bottom of it’s tree stump.
Just as we approached Bridge 16A Oleanna started to list, a long scraping noise came from below, Mick knocked Oleanna out of gear. We’re used to scraping the bottom in shallow bits, but this was different. I made note on What3words and got ready to report it to CRT. Twitter used to be handy for reporting such things, but I’ve erased it since it became X. On the CRT website there was a chat function where you can report things. I decided to give it a go.
Lift!!!
Within a minute I got a reply asking if the canal was blocked, partially or fully. We got through, but someone else might not. Could they pass on the information and my details to the local team? Yes, I was kind of hoping you would. Very quick and easy to report and the answers that came didn’t feel like it was a bot replying.
Bride 9, low for some
It was first day at Stoke on Trent College for many, masses surrounded buildings with welcome flags flying, that will be Josh in a few weeks time. So many young people moving on with their lives into new directions.
We passed a couple of boats heading up the canal, thankfully not on big bends. The lift bridge I only caught one car and a pedestrian. We considered stopping for supplies at a handy Lidl, but that could wait for tomorrow, there were other things we needed to buy today.
CND Meow
Planet Lock was almost full thankfully as only one top paddle is working. Then Mick walked ahead to the staircase whilst I brought Oleanna along slowly behind. A lady filmed Oleanna going past out of the window of a restaurant, I waved and she laughed, nice to make someone’s day.
In at the top
The staircase only needed a touch of topping up and was ready with the top gate open for me. The bottom chamber must leak as that was already empty, just how we’d found it on our way up. Downerty Down.
Out the bottom
Was there any room by the Museum? No and not enough room for two boats. Extra space required today. We paused to dispose of yellow water. There were several CRT people busy with items they’d pulled out of the canal, shopping trolleys put onto vans. A lady in blue said hello to us, very jolly. She said a friend of hers had named her daughter Oleanna, an unusual name. This is only the second time someone has made comment on the name knowing of it previously, makes a change from ‘Are you Oli and her Anna?’
This is a rubbish outside, please tie up a different one
Mick told her about the object at bridge 16A. She was surprised at there being something so far along the canal, but they’d take a look. Now reported twice we knew something would happen.
A notice on the services door. Events for Heritage Open Days. Through September there are places that are not often open, that you can visit for free across the country. We’ve been to quite a few over the years. This year it looks like next weekend will be an interesting one at Etruria with all sorts of steaming things going on. Why oh why do we always miss things here?!!
With Oleanna pointed northwards we were now on the hunt for a mooring, one where hopefully there’d be space later on for a second boat. The towpath was empty from the services, but that’s quite busy, we hoped for a little further along. Outside the Toby Carvery was just about full, a couple of rings nearer the bridge, but we’d have been in the way. Just through the next bridge are rings, we’ve paused there for lunch before, no other boats, perfect.
Lunch, an email of our location sent, time to do some shopping. First Mick headed off with the Brompton, over the canal into the retail area near Bet365 for some engine oil. Then the two of us headed to Festival Park which is a bit of a walk away.
New detector
A few evenings ago our CO and smoke detector in the bedroom started to ‘bip’ at us. Mick spent some time with it, gave it a new battery, then tested it. It wasn’t happy, time for a new detector. Having had a couple of these before and they suggest they last for ten years we decided to go for a different brand. Mick came out of B&Q with a FireAngel detector.
She’d better like beef in the 7+ boxes
Then we carried on up the hill, Morrisons for a loaf of bread, further uphill to Pets at Home. Time to restock on wood cat litter. We used to get it delivered with shopping, it only comes in 10 litre bags from supermarkets. Pets at home works out cheaper at 30 litre bags and the pellets are better for our needs. It’s used both by Tilly in her litter tray, and by us in our compost toilet. They also had pink food at a reduced price, Tilly stocked up for a while.
Oleanna and Alchemy
Back at the canal we’d been joined by a very green boat, NB Alchemy. We stowed our shopping then went over to say hello. Alchemy looks very smart after a recent repaint. Mike and Christine invited us onboard for a cuppa and a chat. We’ve only managed to chat in passing in the past, so it was nice to have a good catch up with them whilst not looking over our shoulders in case another boat was approaching.
How did she know I liked Webbox?!
Christine wanted to come and meet Tilly. This very nice She came and gave me an ear rub and then some Webbox! My favourite!!! She is allowed to visit again. Thank you.
Mick, Mike, Christine, Pip
As I got food ready, chicken and leek macaroni cheese, Mick set about fitting the new detector in the bedroom. It’s footprint on the ceiling slightly smaller, but we shouldn’t notice the screw holes. Yarn was selected for the next pair of socks and the first toe cast on in front of the TV.
What a dreary morning. Tilly was allowed out whilst it drizzled, we didn’t want to get wet and she wouldn’t mind, too much. Pah!!!
It appeared to dry up after breakfast, boats were moving, time for us to do the same. Except Tilly hadn’t come home yet! Time to be a mad cat woman on the towpath, I waited for two teenage girls to pass before I carried on calling for Tilly, they had enough to giggle about without adding me into the mix. I’m here, I was always just here.
A little moody today
But now it was raining properly. Mick checked the met office. It shouldn’t be raining now, but it was. We decided to have an early lunch and hope that the weather caught up with the forecast by the time we’d finished.
Waterproofs on, we finally set off at 1:30pm, 2.5 hours after we’d originally planned, our nebolink had been sat just waiting for movement.
Keep right
Past the one way sign, those information boards will have to wait until next time.
Mick hopped off at the top of the Stockton Brook flight, most of the locks just about full and thankfully the pounds between them were full too.
Top Stockton Brook Lock
A young lad cycled up just past us to the next lock. He rapidly got out a magnet and started to fish. Once we’d left the lock he tried in there too. Looking back from the third lock I could see the bywash behind us flowing, someone was following us down. Soon there were crew at the lock behind us, running round to work the paddles, we carried on at our pace, if they caught us up so be it, they’d have to slow down then.
Under the road bridge
The number of stone mason marks in the middle lock was quite impressive, triangles, stars, arrows.
More cats
Down the five locks we passed a boat just mooring up. ‘The moorings are like hen’s teeth on here!’ We hoped for a mooring a bit further on, had the canal got very busy now the schools were going back?
Oh the POWER!
I did the honours lifting the bridge, no young assistant to help today, then we were at Engine Lock, the gongoozlers bench occupied by dog walkers. Mick lifted the paddles, opened the gates. Ahh! Two boats moored where we’d been on our way up. Would there be space deep enough for us in between? Thankfully there was and the undergrowth not too overgrown either.
Two and a half hours, brilliant! This outside wasn’t wet either, much better than the one this morning.
Pretzel
Yesterdays chicken was stripped from the bones, what to make with it now? Stir fry. Macaroni cheese. Pie. Curry old style. Hmmm? Stir fry. Pair 35 of my socks were finished off, the trip through the tunnel and washing the roof had put a delay on this pair. I should find the time to up load finished socks to the Sockathon page. Still a few pairs left to sponsor, ideal Christmas presents! Just saying.
Debby’s Jolly socks
Today we had started our descent heading towards the River Weaver. However for the last week Hunt’s Lock has been out of action, the latest CRT notice.
‘Today, divers and our teams were on-site to attempt repairs at Hunts Lock. Unfortunately, both paddles were found to be in a much worse state than anticipated and had to be removed. We are now arranging for them to be taken to the workshop for extensive repairs. As a result, the lock will remain closed. We will provide a further update by Friday 6th September or sooner, by which time we hope to have a better understanding of the repair timescales.’
And earlier in the day there had been this notice.
‘Please be advised that navigation is currently closed at Saltersford Lock on the Weaver Navigation. An obstruction at the bottom of the gate is preventing it from closing fully, which means the lock cannot be operated safely. Our engineers are working on a plan to rectify the problem. We will provide an update on Tuesday, 3rd September 2024.’
At least we’ll get to hear about progress this week, we’ve got a passage booked on the Anderton Boat lift. Maybe we’ll have to change our plans again, another cruise plan to plan as it won’t be worth heading down onto the Weaver and not being able to cruise it’s full length. We’ll carry on and wait to hear.
6 locks, 2.3 miles, 2 lift bridges 1 left open, 1 following boat, they looked fast but came past half an hour after we’d moored up, 2 outsides, 5 hours shore leave, 1 boat heading down, cruise plan 23 on hold, plans 24, 25, and 26 being considered, pair 35 finished.
Chilling butter for pastry, Hiding the Merlot, Villains and Rhododendrons, Gen X or was it Z were the subjects covered in this morning’s zoom. Not the full compliment of Mick’s siblings present, one off digging up Scotland the other in Paris watching the Paralympics. Tilly arrived back just in time for us all to say goodbye until next week, we could now be on our way again.
The boat from the water point was just arriving, mooring up in front of us. The lady wasn’t impressed with the Caldon, I think her words were ‘It’s rubbish, I’ll be glad when we get off it!’ We have to say we quite like it up here, yes it’s shallow, overgrown in places, the first part from Stoke isn’t all that picturesque, but when the sun is out some stretches are wonderful. But each to their own.
It’s got very busy!
Four fishermen sat along the towpath, yesterday we’d had the day boat at the winding hole, today it was fishermen. Then a boat came through the bridge hole towards us, one fisherman refusing to lift his rod until the very last minute. We were asked if we’d winded further along the arm by the chap at the helm. They must have missed the blue sign saying to wind here if you are over 45ft.
The stone section of the tunnel
Back through the tunnel, the cows joined today by a fishing heron. We gradually made our way along the contour. We’ve been here twice before and remembered more views, these visits were when there was far less foliage on the trees, maybe that’s why we like it up here because we can remember the views.
Popping out the other end
The nice mooring we’d spotted yesterday was empty. We were curious to see if there would have been enough depth for us to pull in there. Mick slowed Oleanna and started to bring her in, we think we’d have made it if we’d been properly trying. But instead Oleanna headed off in a direction unintended and it took a while to get back on course.
The mooring with a view
NB Beatrice the trip boat was passed, then the day boat, another narrowboat, blimey it was busy today! A couple were rapidly trying to get some resin on some fibreglass to hold a wooden grab rail onto their roof, yesterday the chap had been sweltering in direct sun, today they were racing against the resin going off and it starting to rain.
The staircase used to pass down the side of the cottage under the garden chairs
Over the aqueduct, a right hand bend. Here at one time there used to be a staircase that took the canal down towards Froghall. Where it joined the canal below the current set of locks the channel is noticeable as you head towards Stoke. In fact there have been three lots of locks here in the past. These photos were taken yesterday.
Where the channel used to come out on the left
‘The Leek Arm was built in 1801 to bring water from the newly constructed Rudyard Reservoir to a newly lengthened summit level at Denford. This involved building a new embankment across the valley of the Endon Brook and a new staircase flight of locks at the edge of Hazelhurst Wood to replace three separate locks between there and Endon.’
’40 years later the staircase (having proved to be a bottleneck as John Rennie the Leek Arm engineer had warned) was abandoned and replaced by a flight of 3 new locks at Hollinhurst (the “New Hazelhurst Locks”). Part of the original 1778 line of the canal was re-used and a new aqueduct built through the Denford Embankment, thus creating one of the six places in the UK where one navigable waterway crosses another.’ Thank you IWA . The route of the old canal and locks is shown in grey.
What a bloomin garden
As we got close to the junction, we could see there was a boat approaching on the other side of the next bridge. We held back, the boat ahead reversed, had they seen us? Or were they just manoeuvring themselves? In the end we approached slowly, they were right at the junction, maybe they were winding, maybe just turning. The two boats managed to get past each other just!
Pulling in at the services, we topped up on water, the washing machine had been on, disposed of rubbish and then carried on for a little while longer. The towpath had been trimmed where we’d tried to get in the other day, the grass now all yellow and flat hanging over the armco. We pulled in a little before the Stoke on Trent Boat Club arm, a late lunch, shore leave for Tilly and time to catch up on blog writing.
Rope swings on the tree at the junction
I had intended to walk over to have a look at the information boards by the old swing bridge, but Tilly was busy outside with a possibility that she would follow, plus it had started to rain. As we got ready to enjoy a roast chicken it rained heavier a rumble of thunder skitting across the sky.
0 locks, 1 aqueduct, 3 siblings, 1 stripy lawn in Surrey, 4.4 miles, 2 many boats, bridge 6 very shallow, 2 outsides, 1 test match, 3 different routes, 1 roast chicken.
A cuppa in bed, then we were on our way, making sure we’d not be in the way for any boats. The chestnut trees are just starting to turn, conkers spikily hanging on the branches are getting ready for school kids to collect in the coming weeks.
Mick walking up the locks
We worked up the two locks to bring us back up to near the Flint Mill, soon pulling up on the visitor moorings for breakfast, bacon butties and Tilly was given an hours shore leave.
Hazlehust Lock cottage
A lovely day, sunshine and bright blue skies. The wind picked up a touch, surprising me before one of the Hazlehurst Locks, Oleanna’s bow being pushed right over whilst I was sheltered. The lock cottage looked lovely as we rose up the last of the flight, the owner having just returned home with two large containers of red diesel, presumably they have a generator. Now to the left, a tight turn to head onwards to Leek.
For the last few days we’ve been a little bit puzzled. Hazlehurst is written on both the sign post at the junction and on the aqueduct.
Ordnance Survey have it spelt Hazelhurst, there is a village and wood marked.
Then Google can’t make their minds up between the two spellings, adding in a typo to a third! Sorry for poor screenshot.
Waterway Routes chooses Hazlehurst Aqueduct but follows it in brackets with Hazelhurst
NB Ripple thinks it’s Hazelhurst.
Debby from Chuffed noticed this too the other day. So which should it be?
The other day I changed the spelling on the blog three times and I decided to stick with Hazlehurst as that is what is on the aqueduct and junction sign.
Under the trees to Leek
Oleanna followed the way along past moored boats, crossing Hazlehurst Aqueduct, along the embankment and then along the contour that clings to the hillside all the way to Leek. This was originally built as a feeder for the canal in1801, water coming from the newly constructed Rudyard Reservoir.
By the time we reached Bridge 6 I remembered how slow our progress along the Leek arm had been 7 years ago as we just about ground to a halt. The hour it should take us was likely to be a while longer.
NB Beatrice the trip boat from the Flint Mill came past, luckily not on a slow bit. At one bend Oleanna simply didn’t respond to where Mick was moving the tiller, she just kept going straight on towards the far bank. It took a while to get her back on course.
A hire boat came past, warning us that there was also a day boat up ahead. A distance onwards is a mooring that was quite attractive, great views down into the valley, a bench, a possible mooring for a barbecue. Sadly we needed some shopping so had to continue.
Leek Tunnel, the mended bit
Where the canal widens out just before Leek Tunnel cows were drinking, the other attractive mooring was already taken. The tunnel light was switched on, the way ahead checked and into the tunnel we went. No need to duck here, plenty of height.
At Bridge 9 we came across the day boat, moored just after the bridge, right in the winding hole. Mick was fairly sure we’d have enough room to turn, the ladies on board were having lunch and were very nice, oblivious that their mooring was making it a little bit hard to turn, well there isn’t an actual no mooring sign.
That’s where they are
We then reversed down past one moored boat to as far as we could. A cuppa, some shore leave for Tilly, then it was time to go shopping.
Walking pole in hand, my knee not really my friend after standing on the gunnel yesterday, and the Brompton as sherpa we set off to walk to Morrisons. It’s around about a mile, the first stretch along the canal, then it joins industrial units, some with building work going on. Not the most romantic of walks! A good stock up to keep us going for a few days.
Combination locked
This evening I defrosted the oatcakes I’d made the other day. A light sprinkling of cheddar and then a good spoonful of left over chilli. They were very tasty, I can highly recommend the combination. Mick wondered when we’d be leaving Staffordshire and stop having oatcakes, that will be part way through Harecastle Tunnel. I may have a go at making some batter from scratch, when we’re in Cheshire!
