We’d woken on another list, this time the other way round, Oleanna most probably just settling in the silt. Our neighbour got going before us and as we pushed out a narrowboat headed straight for our spot as if we’d been keeping it warm for them.
Blue blue sky
What a gorgeous morning! Blue skies surrounded us.
Mowing
A chap sat on his lawn mower spraying out grass clippings as he went, obviously not part of the ‘No Mow May’ brigade. But then as we looked back we could only just about see his house! That’s one big lawn!
A queue!
Woodford Lock was not too far away and we soon started winding down the guillotine gate. A wide beam appeared behind us, it had to tread water until Oleanna was moved off the lock landing. The advantage of being followed on these locks is that so long as the guillotine gate is raised enough for you to safely exit with your boat you don’t have to wind it all the way back up to the very top to lock it off, saving several minutes of cardio vascular exertion at the big wheel.
Pretty
The river banks were mostly low today, cow parsley, rapeseed, and many plants standing tall in the sunshine waving in the breeze. Holy Trinity at Denford made for a good photo giving me a break from spinning the wheel.
More tight bridges to negotiate today. The old piers of a former railway bridge sit on a bend at an angle, a beep of the horn was felt necessary just in case. Then under Islip Road Bridge with it’s narrow arches. Just upstream of the bridge is a mooring, too soon for us to stop and a tricksy one to get into.
Through Thrapston, we made note of the Islip Dave mooring which has no land access, but would be a better choice for Tilly than the one by the bridge. It’s places like this that you’d like to be able to explore on foot, but being on a river just pulling in where you’d like isn’t really an option. If we wanted to explore Thrapston we’d need to either be by the bridge or on the EA mooring just out of town.
Titchmarsh Mill
By Titchmarsh Lock we caught last nights neighbour up. He was obviously a local as people stopped to chat with him at the lock, he moors at Middle Nene Cruising club which has a fantastic mill alongside it. Our pamphlet from the EA suggests you’d be able to moor considerately on the downstream lock landing, but we’d be too long for any consideration of this sadly.
Not much further on to Peartree Farm Mooring. I’d been wondering if the moorings would get busier today with it being the start to the weekend, but as we pulled up we were the only ones. This is where Harpers Brook joins the River Nene and the land at the junction has been fenced off to make an idyllic mooring. Space for several boats we chose to moor on the brook to make use of what solar the day had left to offer.
Backing in to moor
Tilly had an explore, trying out several trees for size, many just a touch too wide for good climbing and the lack of nearby friendly cover knocked it down from a Mrs Tilly stamped mooring. There’s a barbeque area with a picnic table. Fairy houses in trees and bird boxes. Lovely, but I think I preferred the views of yesterdays mooring.
Tonights mooring
As the afternoon went on the sun hid behind clouds and the temperature dropped necessitating lighting the stove. We were joined by the widebeam that had been following us and then a narrowboat from down stream, all sitting out around a fire pit as it got dark and started to rain. The last boat to pass was after 10pm, someone holding a torch out front to see the way.
4 locks, 3 wheels, 6.57 miles, 1 sunny warm morning, 1 improvised handle, 1 week to mow a lawn, 2 pretty churches, 1 neighbour caught up, 1 mill, 2 many trees to choose from, 1 pile of ash! 1 grey afternoon, 1 wet night ahead.
We woke on a list, one of those that’s a touch unsettling, thank goodness we have a cross bed so neither of us had fallen out of bed. It wasn’t that bad really, with me at the bow to help spread the weight, Mick reversed Oleanna off the silt with ease.
Water water everywhere
What a lovely day, the sun was out and blue sky cruising lay ahead for us. For much of our journey today we’ve been surrounded by lakes, the water ski lake stretches on for what feels like miles to a retail park. Both horizons seem to have developments going on. The north side new houses and currently the south has fencing around it suggesting more houses.
Ditchford Lock
Today we’d encounter two more types of lock. The first Ditchford Lock which instead of a guillotine gate has a radial gate. Apparently there used to be several more of these along the river, but this is the only one that remains.
The bottom gate is curved and drops in at the bottom of the lock, all operated by fingers on buttons again. We should be keeping an eye out for other locks that have previously had radial gates as they have large downstream recesses that used to house the mechanism.
Caution! Hanging Girder!!
Then the longest reach of river we’ve had so far towards Higham Ferrers Lock, 2 miles! A boat was just coming into the lock from below so I tried to help close the gate behind it. Another boat appeared below too, but the chap said he’d shared with them and they’d said as he was in a rush to head onwards without them, he was a boat mover. Blimey that gate was heavy and took two people to get it moving. It turns out there had been a notice regarding it.
Lovely day
Up the boat came, but only so far. We went to check the bottom gate, the paddles had been left up! No indicator that we could find to show this. The last boat through had possibly been a hire boat (it had passed us this morning), possibly with someone wearing C&RT clothing, all speculation. With the paddles closed the boat came up and we could descend, by now the next boat was waiting below.
Lillian in Higham Ferrers Lock in 2014
Yesterday Mick had had confirmation texts and messages that his phone had been registered for strong stream alerts on the Anglian Waterways. Levels can change suddenly down here as the EA manage water levels. If there is flooding the locks can be reversed, making them into sluices sending water downstream fast. The locks are filled, top gates chained open and then the guillotine gate is raised, being on pins downstream of a lock is not a good place to be! Follow the link below to register for warnings.
Heading towards the next lock we also signed up to the Friends Of The River Nene Facebook group here there are discussions and information about the river, more than you get from the FOTRN website.
Old Station Road Bridge
A bridge had also stuck in our memory, Old Station Road Bridge, sits downstream of the New Station Road Bridge a concrete possibly 1920’s 30’s high bridge. The old bridge comprises of double and triple chamfered arches. Through the centuries it has been widened, Mid C14th and has date stones from 1668, 1829, 1754 and 1922.
Doing our best to line up
Here you take a specific arch and a boat heading upstream had come a cropper coming through, getting stuck at an angle heading them straight off into the reeds. We cut our speed and then slowed as much as we could to tread water, good job the flow wasn’t stronger. They sorted themselves out and came past, we now had to try to line up with the skew arch and from a position we’d not have chosen to be in. Mick deftly turned Oleanna and avoided adding any more groves to the well worn bridge.
Gongoozlers
A pit stop at the EA moorings was had for lunch and to empty our yellow water tank. Then we were off again to Irthlingborough Lock where we had a couple of gongoozlers watching our every move. It’s funny without a car my geography of England is now centred around canals and rivers, proximity to cities and towns only a twenty minute drive away feels like it’s on the other side of the country. The gongoozlers mentioned Stoke Bruerne, a 30 minute drive yet on a boat it would take over 16 hours. For us that would be a 4 day cruise!
Hawthorne Blossom coming out
The river at times now gets quite narrow with trees here there and everywhere, you have to keep your eyes peeled for on coming boats. We passed two more FOTRN moorings, at least one is likely to be stopped at on the way back.
That looks tidier than I remembered it
Upper Ringstead Lock was the place we had our very first night onboard Lillyanne. We tied to the end bollard of the lock landing and hammered a spike in for the bow rope. Today the lock landing looked tidier than eight years ago, but what hadn’t changed was the guillotine mechanism! This one is the first manually operated gate heading downstream.
Wheel
This is one thing I’d not forgotten about the River Nene, the big wheel!
Once unlocked you spin the big wheel round and round and round and……. you’ve got the idea. The wheel may be big making it easier to move the guillotine, but the shear number of times you have to spin it is unrelenting! Thank goodness Upper Ringstead Lock is only shallow. I put one idea into action here, get Mick to drop the guillotine then I would raise it, splitting the arm ache between the two of us.
Lower Ringstead Lock
Soon we were at Lower Ringstead Lock, alongside Willy Watt Marina. This was the very first lock we ever did in Lillyanne and our first Nene lock. We didn’t remember it at all. Was it manual back then? Or fingers on buttons? I think we were so giddy at finally owning our own boat that nothing much was stored in the memory bank.
Looking back
Round a big bend and under the old railway bridge, we were soon passing Woodford Riverside Marina, a little arm off to the west. Well it’s actually two little arms with an island between them. This is where Lillyanne had spent most of her life before we bought her and where we collected her from 8 years and a month ago today. We’d had one trip that day by car to off load our belongings and pick up the keys, Merve the previous owner was a touch twitchy not having received the proceeds of the sale via the broker, he was also twitchy as her licence had expired. We then drove to Crick Marina to leave the car and our friend Lizzie gave us a lift back.
Woodford Riverside Marina
Merve seemed happier this time, hopefully the £1 the brokers send through to check it’s your account before sending the rest of the money (the following week in our experience!) had arrived. It was late in the afternoon, we untied and pushed off down the narrow channel between moored boats to the entrance onto the river. We had a crowd watching us. It was the first time Mick had been at her helm and the turn out under the bridge was very tight, yet he managed it without touching a thing.
St Mary the Virgin, Woodford
Not far 0.25km further on we pulled in at Woodford FOTRN mooring for the day. The bank was uneven for much of its length, a section having collapsed at some point, but we made the best of it and left plenty of room for someone else should they arrive, which they did later in the afternoon.
Not a bad mooring
The chairs came out and we both enjoyed the view as Tilly explored the area. Good friendly cover and the occasional small tree to climb. She however didn’t spot the Yoyo flies that kept her occupied and us amused when we were on the River Avon a few years ago.
Tilly on guard
I had a good catch up chat with David, he’s moved away from Newark now, he has good and bad days, but is doing okay.
In need of the services at Gayton Junction we prepared, emptying the wee tank whilst the outlet was on the towpath side. Then we pootled our way to the junction.
What a difference from yesterday! I got sunburnt yesterday, today we could just about see our breath! Layers and long sleeves were certainly needed.
Gayton Junction, which way?
At the junction there was already a boat on the services, but fortunately they had just finished. We pulled in alongside and let two other boats pass before we could swap places and tie up. There was a hive of activity around the service block, the local IWA branch were busy weeding and giving the place a general tidy up. We filled and emptied as required then were ready to push off.
IWA all hard at work
We’ve pulled up at the services here before, but only once been along the Northampton Branch. That was just over eight years ago when we’d just bought NB Lillyanne, she’d been moored on the River Nene and her licence had just run out, so we spent a couple of long days getting her off the river and onto C&RT waters. Quite a rush, not enough time to take much in or write a blog.
Last year was all about seeing family and friends, this year we want to explore again. Today we’d be heading down the Northampton Arm towards the River Nene, Middle Levels, Great Ouse, River Cam etc where we plan on spending the summer. We have our Gold Licence, have joined Friends of the River Nene and The Great Ouse Boating Association. There are different licences to buy, keys and windlasses (that are also called keys), all very exciting!
Fancy swing bridge
But first we needed to stop for an early lunch, there’s nowhere really to stop in the flight of locks down into Northampton so we pulled up opposite Gayton Marina. This is where all the hire boats were aiming for this morning and also where we came to view the first second hand boat we looked at inn 2014, it had too much leatherette for our tastes and really bad storage for a liveaboard boat.
From eight years ago I’ve had this thing that Gayton Marina had to be on the main line of the Grand Union near the junction, every time we’ve passed since I’ve wondered where it had gone! Now I know it wasn’t just a mirage.
NB Caress of Steel came past just as we pulled in, another Finesse boat with space for a motorbike in the tug deck. Then we watched the swing bridge at the entrance swing, all automated, a barrier and flashing light. There was no-one to be seen operating it, do moorers have a fob that they can press to open it? Or is someone watching on CCTV?
Top Lock
Time to set off, with sixteen locks ahead of us before we could stop we needed to get on with it.
We remembered narrow locks, going under the M1. I remembered trying to ride a Brompton up the gravelly track between locks, our lock operation has changed since then going up hill. Today I’d be walking much of the flight three times to set ahead and then let Mick and Oleanna out of the lock above.
What would be different to the locks? There’s always something different on each canal. The beams were wide, easy to cross. Here the handrails on the bottom gates were on the downhill side of them. Would I still be able to push the gates apart to save a walk around the lock? Have they always been like this or is it to put people off stepping across from one gate to the other?
Beep beep!
At the second lock I stood and worked out if I could push the gates from the centre safely holding onto the railing. This actually would be a touch easier to start off with, but to guarantee getting the gate into the recess I would need to change the angle to which I pushed. After a few locks I decided that the angle I was pushing at was not being kind to my knees, so I chose to walk round instead. Thankfully Mick closed the other gate for me with the boat hook, saving a second trip round.
The thick of the flight runs through twelve locks seemingly in countryside, the last one however sitting underneath the M1 near junction 15A. All quite pretty, I suspect the views would have been better if the sun had been out.
A family walked up the flight, crossing over the gates of each lock. They were obviously keen to lend a hand with a gate or two.
Red roof
In the pound below lock 6 I could see a red arc. This turned out to be the roof of a cruiser, the chap on board appeared when we had a couple of locks still to go to reach him. Obviously a single hander, I headed down to lend a hand with gates as he bow hauled his boat into the lock. He said that he’d stopped in the pound overnight and some nair do wells had opened all the paddles and drained the pound, he’d woken up with his boat on the silt.
The bywash was flowing and had got him afloat again, the level still quite low. It took time for Oleanna and the cruiser to pass. We’d left the next two locks ready for him, I suspect he made use of the open gates and then settled back down for another night, waiting for the next down hill boat to leave gates for him.
It won’t go down!
The level below Lock 6 was low. Oleanna ground to a halt exiting. I lifted one of the top paddles to see if I could flush her out. This worked quite quickly, but then the paddle wouldn’t close fully. I managed to force it down a touch, but had to call for Mick to see if he could get it further. Thankfully this worked.
The canal was built by the Grand Junction Canal, with a height difference of 32m between the Grand Junction at Gayton down to Northampton. 17 narrow locks were built to connect the River Nene to the canal network. The first boats arrived at Far Cotton in Northampton on the 1st May 1815, 207 years ago today! However today we wouldn’t be greeted by crowds cheering, it would just be geese crapping everywhere!
Farms were cut in half by the canal, so seven lift bridges were put across so that sheep, cattle and machinery could cross. Today only one such bridge is still fully in tact, just below lock 5, two more sit beside the canal.
Under the M1 are murals painted by local school children. One side depicts the canal through the seasons, the other is a time line of Northampton which is very interesting, bright and jolly. For 100 years the canal was very busy transporting coal, grain and timber, by WW2 road competition took over and trade declined.
A heron flew away from the lock
In 1968 a group of local enthusiasts formed the IWA Northampton Branch, in 1971 the IWA National Rally was held when 650 boats gathered. The branch fought to keep the arm open, objecting to road plans that would affect the route. Today they look after the upkeep of the flight. Mosaics sit near the top gates of each lock and as seen at the top of the arm today work parties keep the thick of the flight trimmed and tidy.
The pounds very full lower down
Once under the M1 the last few locks are set further apart. New housing sits alongside and the amount of reeds increases, this is also something we remembered from eight years ago. Gradually the canal becomes more urban.
Reeds reeds and more reeds
Local boats sat making use of the few rings above Lock 17, but there was space for us infront. We used the last ring and the girders holding the pipe bridge up to moor and moved the geese along taking care not to stand in their pooh.
Last night we had unwrapped the pork joint, dried it off and left it in the fridge to dry out. Before starting the flight I had left it out to come up to room temperature. Once down Lock 15 I turned the oven on, gave the joint a dry off and added some more salt to the leathery rind. Down Lock 16 in it went. By the time we were moored up it had done it’s 30 minutes at gas 7 and could be turned down. The effort paid off as we enjoyed the best pork crackling I’ve ever made along with a quarter of the meat. A good celebration to mark the anniversary of the arm and the start of our exploring this year.
Yummmmm!
16 locks, 6.5 miles, 1 left, 1 full water tank, 1 grey day, 1 left of 7, 34 mosaics, 1 slow boat to Gayton, 1 Tilly not too impressed, 2 hrs 42 minutes, 1 joint of pork that will last us four meals, 18 train tickets booked (making use of the Sale before it ends), 2 tired boaters.
What a sunny morning, still a little bit windy but having some blue sky over head made all the difference. We didn’t rush to get away, but that meant we were passed by a couple of boats heading for Hatton before we’d even thought about pushing off.
Rowington Embankment
Just before 11 we finally got going, time to admire the views we’d hidden from yesterday. A wide beam sat near Shrewley Tunnel, a narrowboat approached from the far end, they held back and pulled in giving us the tunnel to ourselves. Unfortunately this meant the chap got stuck in the mud for a while.
Another couple of miles and we’d reached the top of Hatton. We’d been keeping an eye open behind us in case there was any sign of a boat behind to share with, but the canal was empty. Yes we could sit and wait, but we might be there all day! The top lock was in our favour so we decided to head down on our own.
The lock below was also full, so I walked down to open the top gates leaving Mick to close gates and lift a paddle. In the third lock there was a boat rising, their crew actually walked past me to see what was happening at the top, he then lifted the paddle for Mick. Great I thought one less lot of gates to open, there’d be plenty of them to do today!
Busy at the top of the locks
Then as we started to descend the second lock the gates on the lock below had been closed, the lock emptied and another two boats were heading into it. Was it to be this busy all the way down the flight?
Forth Lock down
We swapped places with the single boat and waited for the next lock to fill. Reports from down the flight was that there was a volunteer down there somewhere with a couple of trainees, helping hands but one’s that would be travelling in a pack.
It took a little while for the last boat to realise they needed to vacate the lock for us to be able to use it, lock fatigue that close to the top! Sadly Lock 43 was to be the last one set for us, we must be following someone down, although they couldn’t be seen ahead.
Great view down to Warwick
From here the world got quieter on the water, plenty of walkers about. This proved quite handy. Now that the locks were all nicely lined up and all needed filling, I walked down to lift a paddle so that it could be filling as the one above emptied. We stuck to only lifting one paddle at each lock, many people say opening both paddles only saves a couple of minutes, I was more interested in the energy conservation!
Heading down
A young lad walking past the now full lock below stopped and opened the gate for us, brilliant! If we could have someone do that at each lock that would save some muscle aches. A couple got chatting to Mick at the next lock, he managed to enlist them into opening the next two locks for us, meaning I could walk straight past to get the next one filling.
These paddles take a lot of winding, normally they are not too stiff, but today each and everyone took some turning, the long reach on my windlass was needed for extra umph!
Looking down
With a couple of locks before half way we could see that a boat was coming up, here was the volunteer and trainees. A trainee walked up to help me, we chatted, it was her first day of training, I strongly suspect she’s not done much if any boating. Hope she enjoys working on the flight.
We’d not had lunch and with Middle Lock Bridge just there we decided to pull in, tucking ourselves as far up to the bywash as we could, making use of a ring and leaving the lock landing free behind us.
Volunteers ahead!
A quick look at the map, we’d need to do at least another five locks for another possible mooring. Here was much further away from the road with very good looking friendly cover and trees. We decided to stay put, halfway down the flight, giving Tilly 4 hours of shore leave.
That was it we only saw her once in those four hours and that was after I’d called her to check she was okay. She hopped out from the friendly cover surprising a woofer and owner on the towpath, cartoon arched back and bog brush tail were instantly engaged! I did wonder whether she’d allow them to pass or insist that they went back down the flight!
Can we have this outside all week please
We pottered away the afternoon, the sun shining down on the solar panels meaning we could top up on hot water electrically after I’d had a shower. A Sunday roast chicken was prepared and there was time for a catch up chat with David before it needed carving.
10 locks, 3.69 miles, 5 uphill boats, 0 following us, 1 ahead for sure, 3 gates opened, 1 volunteer, 2 trainees, 1 Mrs Tilly stamp of approval, 1 canine surprise, 1 large roast chicken, 1 boater warned of diesel prices, 1st t-shirt kind of day.
Needing to catch up and the sun being out meant we were happy to push off this morning. Blue skies lift the heart and thankfully there were blue skies back in Newark too making life that bit easier.
Radcliffe Viaduct
Three sunny miles cruising up to Holme Lock. Mick tried radioing ahead in case there was a Lock Keeper on duty, but officially they start back next week. No reply came so I was to work the buttons.
Holme Lock is huge and always takes an age to empty and even longer to fill. Add to that the button controls and their flashing lights! Well we were there for sometime before I could even open the gates. With Oleanna in the lock I started to press the open button to bring her up, water gushing in, yet the level taking forever to fill.
It takes forever!
All of a sudden the towpath opposite there was a todo! A family had been walking their dog on a lead when another dog appeared and attacked it, it kept coming back for more no matter what the people did. The lady said things to me which I really couldn’t hear and I was trying to concentrate on Oleanna. I think she thought I was a Lock Keeper and would know which boat the dog eventually ran off to. Unfortunately I couldn’t help.
Now on our way into Nottingham, the reach was quiet, no sailing boats out today and despite the cricket season having started there was no-one playing at Trent Bridge.
Hang on! Were there people in the garden of Southfork? This is the first time we’ve ever seen anyone near this house! New builds are still going up along the river, including a new development overlooking Meadow Lane Lock.
Meadow Lane Lock
A widebeam was coming down in the lock, the lady saying they were going up the river, so I signalled to Mick that they would be turning upstream. Well that’s not what she meant at all, they were heading downstream to Stoke. Fortunately Mick had moved so they could pick up crew anyway.
We pulled onto the water point where I jumped ship and headed off to Hobbycraft to buy myself a sketchbook and some tracing paper so that I can be ready to start Panto when the next version of the script arrives.
The writing’s on the door
Mick topped up the water, emptied the wee tank and rinsed off the roof before I got back.
Along the next stretch I stood in the bow with a tape measure. We’d offered to measure the height of the new rail bridge for David to see if he’d be able to get under it. When on the River Wey a few years ago we managed to work out our air draught to the top of the horns. The new rail bridge was 88cm above them. The tape came out again once round the 90degree bend as some of the bridges seemed low too. In fact one of them only measured 75cm above our horns.
Approaching the Sainsburys moorings we were surprised at the number of boats moored up near the student accommodation. We pulled in to the last gap we could see, just as well as round the corner it was nose to tail boats! Yes we moored right in front of a no mooring sign, yes we had lunch, yes we went shopping and no we cannot work out why there is no mooring there!
Nest making, we also saw a pair necking today
Mick called round to check on diesel prices. Castle marina £1.75. Mercia £1.78! Then Shobnall, if we wanted over 50 litres it would be £1.20. Being twelve hours cruise away we should be fine until then and at that price it will almost certainly save us £50! We did however pull into Castle Marina for some coal £13.50 for 25kg of Excell. They had some Marine 16 too but at over £30 Mick decided to leave it and see how much it might be at Shobnall.
Beeston towpath full
Back onto the Nottingham and Beeston Cut we pootled our way westwards catching up with an extreamly slow boat who thankfully let us pass. Starting to get cold we wanted to stop so tried pulling into a gap. The wind did it’s best to push Oleanna away from the bank and even with both of us clinging on we couldn’t get her into the side, we’d try further along. Well there were no gaps further along. Nottingham seems to have had an increase in local continuous cruisers, we reckon there’s about five times the amount of boats than there used to be.
Beeston Lock where windlasses are welded onto the paddles
Only one thing for it we’d have to carry on along the river and hope for space on Cranfleet cut or at Trent Lock. It was cold and threatening to rain, but we had no choice.
We did our best to keep towards the western bank, after hearing the story of NB Legend getting stuck on an old submerged wall last year we really wanted to avoid any possibility of re-enacting the incident.
Soon Cranfleet lock was in view and we tried to remember if we knew which paddle to lift first. No recollection at all. Having four gate paddles it’s confusing, thank goodness you can hang back in the lock. It turned out that I guessed correctly choosing the paddle on the same side as Oleanna, but in the middle first followed by the outer one.
Ratcliffe on Soar Power Station just across the way
At the junction we popped out far enough to see if there was space on the pontoon at Trent Lock, there was, but on the inside so no view. However there was a space on the wall at the junction so we pulled in at 7:30, stoked up the stove and got warm again.
5 locks, 15.2 miles, 2 rights, 1 junction, 1 beautiful day, 5 times as many boats, 3 bags coal, 0 diesel today, 8ft 8inches we think, 1 inch too low, 2 boxes wine, 1 shopping trolley back to the boat, 0 shore leave, 1 tidier boat, 1 more good day for David.
Checking Windy, the Met office and the BBC confirmed that today would be windy. We didn’t fancy 29mph with gusts up to 45/50mph accompanied by heavy rain at times so we decided to stay put and finish off Saturdays newspaper in bed, this normally happens on a Monday morning, but for obvious reasons it was now Thursday.
Sunbathing
A Sausage day! Well almost as they did pop out at one time leaving me to shut my eyes for a while. I remember it here, red sandyness under my paw pads. Steep banks for friend finding and pouncing. The trees are interesting too, but I was mostly kept busy with the friendly cover. Tom said I had to leave the woodpeckers alone anyway, so I did.
Indecisive tail
I had a chat with David mid morning. A touch of confusion had crept in about the way forward. We’d also all got confused as to who we’d met with on Tuesday. Was it the Crisis team? After David had rung round we were a touch more confused as the Crisis team had discharged him back to his GP and the GP … well.
David’s first mate Harry
With the numbers we’d called on Monday to hand David finally got things sorted. Yes he had been discharged from Crisis to the Community Mental Health Team and his GP had had a letter regarding this. He’d also heard from C&RT, they were giving him permission to over stay which was great news.
No Joke Plantation
I spent much of the day trying to update the blog, my normal morning routine not followed for a few days meant I was quite behind with some long posts to write, so it was good to get them done.
Mixing
Then the bag of gluten free white bread flour came out. I’d seen a recipe for Hot Cross Buns a week or so ago which I’d wanted to have a go at. Tilly and I normally make Hot Paw Buns which have marzipan in them. They are very tasty but a little heavy so I wanted to see what this new recipe was like and if I could adapt it.
It’s been a while since I made bread with this flour, it always turned out a touch potatoey, suitable for toasting and adding a lot of butter to, a little like potato scones. Because of this I wasn’t too sure how it would turn out.
Left to rise
The dough was made up with what dried fruit I had on board, raisins and cranberries and left to rise whilst Mick and I went for a walk to the bins by the lock.
Woosh!
Stock Lock is the prettiest on the Trent, surrounded by woodland. We extended our walk across the lock gates to have a look at the weir, thundering it was. A few years ago a narrowboat was pushed over the weir, a lady was swept overboard, thankfully all survived, shaken up quite badly.
Our private little mooring
On return to the boat the buns had an egg wash and crosses added, then went in the oven and baked for half an hour. I made up a sugar syrup to glaze them with when they came out, they looked really quite promising.
Click photo for recipe link. Not bad, quite tasty but not as good as Hot Paw Buns
Verdict, not as good as hot paw buns, but not a bad second place. We just need to eat these before I’m allowed to make paw buns.
0 locks, 0 miles, 1 day staying put, 1 near sausage, 9.5 hours for Tilly, 6 rain showers, 29mph, 1 sheltered mooring, we’d hardly have known, 10 hot cross buns, 1 more step on the right direction.
Today we had to move on, there are appointments and places we need to be in the next few weeks. We got ourselves together, topped up with water, bought milk and some gluten free bread flour from Waitrose (I’ve not been able to find it elsewhere).
Tilly topping up on solar
Time to check on David. He’d not slept well. We offered to make phone calls so that people knew that he’d moved yesterday and that C&RT were informed so hopefully if he needed to overstay he wouldn’t be hassled by the enforcement officer adding to his woes, we also requested that the Welfare Officer was informed. We’re not sure if they can help, but it was worth a try.
We loaded bags of rubbish into our well deck to dispose of at the next bins. Gave David a box of lateral flow tests and said our goodbyes. Hopefully we’ve been able to help a bit, there is a long way to go, but hopefully the next time we see him he’ll be back to the David we met last year. He needs company and conversation, a boat can be a very lonely place. I’ll be keeping in touch with him over the next few weeks. He may write a piece about his experience trying to get help with his mental health which I’ve said I will post. If it helps just one person then it will be worth it.
Easter weekend you won’t be able to get a space here
We started to untie just as NB No Rush came into view, so we held on for a while until they had pulled in. With the forecast not being so good for the next couple of days they planned on staying put, where as we were going to brave the elements and try to tick some miles and locks off heading southwards.
Newark Castle
We made our way to Town Lock, Mick dropping me off at the low wall. The volunteer Lockies start back next week, so we’d be working the locks ourselves. The lock is a public right of way with access over the lock gates, so an annoying woman repeats ‘Please keep clear of the lock gate area’ as soon as you turn your key to open the panel. Having said that the lady at the top gate did get bored of her own voice a couple of times as I took my time filling the lock.
We pulled in just before the next bridge to dispose of rubbish, thankfully the Biffa bin was empty and not full. The high walls on the Trent don’t make such things too easy on a narrowboat.
Soon we were on our way. Soon it started to rain. Soon it started to blow a hoolie at us!
Seeing the way ahead
Not the most pleasant cruising weather, maybe if we’d been on David’s boat inside with the windscreen wipers going it would have been more bearable. I was able to stand with my back to the prevailing wind and rain, watching the way ahead with the reflection in Mick’s glasses!
Past Newark Marina, we could do with some coal but the thought of pulling in to find they hadn’t any put us off. Then the big Averham Weir and Staythorpe Power Station, not too many cormorants drying themselves today. Farndon and Fiskerton visitor moorings came and went. Since leaving the tidal river we’d only seen two moored boats, Newark had been empty, just where is everyone?
Hazelford Moorings
Hazelford Lock came into view, we needed a break, time for lunch. We pulled in to the only space available, and placed ourselves slap bang in the middle of the moorings, no-one here either. Were we the only ones on the river?
After lunch we regrouped, Windy suggested the wind was now even stronger than it had been before, but it should ease after a couple of hours. So we stayed put on our mooring waiting for the weather to abate.
Coming up
Three hours after we arrived we pushed off again. The controls for the lock a little frustrating again, this time the open button remaining constant at the top gates, but that meant I could lift the sluices as we required them, until all of a sudden the light started to flash at me. That was it until the water was level.
Look at that sky
Sunshine! And wind! Clouds scooting across the sky.
This reach of the river and the next are our favourites. Low banks (or cliffs as Mick referred to them today!) of red sand, hills covered in trees many with blossom, geese and ducks all trying to chart a flying course but getting blown in the opposite direction. The only downside with our favourite bit is the lock that lies in the middle, Gunthorpe Lock!
Gunthorpe!
The lock landing below the lock is really frustrating as it is on the weir side. So you approach it to drop crew off, with the force of water coming from the weir pushing you away from the pontoon. This meant we couldn’t get close enough to drop me off from the stern. I ended up having to jump off the bow, sensible but how would a single hander manage it? Maybe we could have pulled up on the otherside of the pontoon, but then Oleanna would have been pinned against it by the flow coming from the weir.
Then there is the other reason, this is where I lost my little finger in 2015. I’m happier being up top operating the lock than having to face those blue risers, but I still hate it with a passion!
Still no sign of my digit
As we cruised in the decreasing sunlight, rain clouds swept overhead, rainbows arced high above us, wind made our cheeks ruddy, little lambs ganged up with each other to go running about. We passed Burton Joyce where Tilly came from and waved to the lovely ladies who’d rescued her.
Dramatic skies
The remains of the stew from a few nights ago had some sausages added to it and was left to carry on cooking on the stove top as we cruised our way to Stoke Lock. Last year as we approached there was a boat below the lock that had grounded on a sandbank. The river had been dredged so we hoped after Mick had dropped me off that he’d still be able to get into the lock. This was all fine and we locked up the pretty lock with a couple of families gongoozling.
Stoke Lock
We had now reached our destination. With the winds set to be even higher tomorrow we planned on staying put on the low wall mooring. Here Tilly could have some shore leave once again whilst we avoided the stronger winds for the day. We just hoped our chosen mooring would be safe as there are quite a lot of trees around!
Over the last week I have managed to make contact with my cousin’s son to see if there was any news from Ukraine. Messages have gone back and forth and yesterday evening I got an email from Tim. Saying he is safe is all relative, he is far safer than a lot of people in Ukraine.
The house he’d bought two months ago is still standing, but without doors or windows, his car and garage are ruined. Looters moved through and all their possessions have gone. This is all from reports from those who are still in Chernihiv where there is no water, gas, electricity, little food. Tim and his wife are living with her mother some distance away. Despite the Invaders retreating they don’t know when they will be able to return, all the bridges have been blown up and there are reports that the roads are mined.
‘Hard to believe this is 2022! With no road or village signs and blackout curtains required at night, it is like Dad’s Army and would be funny if not so tragic.’ It is hard to know what to say, other than I’m relieved that they are still with us.
4 locks, 17.99 miles, 1 goodbye until next time, get well, 1 windy rainy day, 3 hour lunch break, 0 shore leave again! 1 beautiful stretch, 3 approaches, 1 b**tard lock, 9.75 digits still, 0 clone, 1 broken zip, 1 double rainbow, 1 river just to ourselves.
Keadby Visitor Moorings to Muskham Ferry, River Trent
Neither of us slept well last night. An early start on tidal waters, the trains going over Vazon Sliding Bridge through the night, not knowing what we would find when we reached David, plus the thought that the conditions on the river could be unsafe due to high winds so we’d not reach Cromwell today.
Almost ready to go down
The alarm went off at 6am, enough time for a cuppa, do final checks and put Tilly’s escape pod together. A phone call from Kirsty saying we had ten minutes before she’d open the road bridge in front of the lock. Covers were sorted quickly, ash can back on board then we followed NB No Rush towards the lock, the light having turned green a couple of minutes earlier.
Water pouring over from the canal
Kirsty said the flood was still a way off so she would let us down the lock slowly and wait for the level outside the lock to be right before opening the gates. We sat in the lock gradually going down chatting away to Will on NB No Rush. Both boats had the same plan, Cromwell, but if conditions were bad then a stop at either Torksey or Dunham. We exchanged phone numbers and with both boats having VHF we knew we could be in touch even if we were out of sight of each other.
Thank you Kirtsy
It took 40 minutes for things to be right before the gates opened in front of us. Will suggested we went first as we had more reason to get somewhere today and he’d been told he travels a touch slower than most. Out onto the river, the push from the tide not yet really going for it.
We’d not been down to the lock to check if there were any ships moored on the river as we do normally, so it was a relief that there wasn’t one there to surprise us.
A ship across the way
Dressed appropriately, thermals, padded waterproof trousers, jumpers, fleece, waterproof coat, we hoped we’d be able to withstand what ever the weather threw at us. The large expanse of river was ahead, we gradually crossed over to go under the eastern span of Keadby Bridge. NB No Rush appeared from the lock behind, at first seeming to keep up with us, but as the two boats settled into their cruising speed with the tide we slowly pulled away from them.
Breakfast on the move
Time for breakfast, sausage sarnies and an insulated mug of something hot. Meanwhile below Tilly was not impressed with the speed we were moving the outside, I’m not a speed monster!
Follow the red line
With our Trent chart in a plastic bag for protection from a little rain early on, we followed the red line marking the channel, around us the level gradually rising with the tide.
NB No Rush behind
This was our fourth trip southwards on the Tidal Trent. First trip was on NB Lillyanne in 2015, then on Oleanna’s maiden voyage when we managed to catch an early morning spring tide which carried us all the way to Cromwell. Then last year when we’d come round Trent Falls escaping from Goole. Today the westerly wind would be over the tide giving us waves when we turned into it. Thankfully they weren’t too big.
Familiar landmarks were passed, Owston Ferry (Which pub did Mick’s grandfather stay at?), The entrance to the River Idle, West Stockwith Lock.
Gainsborough where we’d considered stopping last year, but with spring tides and a possible Aegir the following morning we ended up continuing on to Torksey. We were rushing with the tide by now as the river narrows and twists through the city. Areas where the water gets confused as to which way to flow, bubbling around Oleanna.
Gainsborough pontoon
Then the power stations still with their full compliment of cooling towers could be seen, at one stage both in line with each other.
Gainsborough Bridge
Torksey Viaduct. A quick check of Windy and the forecast strong winds had moved on a few hours. We agreed to carry on, so far conditions hadn’t been too bad. We passed the turn off to the lock and the pontoons below it, not a boat in sight.
No Rush still in view
Along the straight to Dunham Toll Bridge we could see NB No Rush was still with us. Last chance to stop on the pontoon here, but we kept on going. A phone call to Cromwell had been made to make sure we’d be able to get in with them today, all was fine.
Torksey Viaduct, now a footpath
Things were getting choppier, more twists bringing us in to the wind. Gradually our speed dropped as the push from the tide dropped away and the push the other way from 2ft of fresh water coming down from Cromwell took over, a few more revs needed from Oleanna’s engine.
Cooling towers
Overhead power lines were being worked on, pinging in the wind as they whipped around as we followed the channel directly underneath them, a rescue boat was moored at the corner just in case.
Round the meanders where posts sit far out in the water marking where sandbags extend to. Under Fledborough Viaduct where someone needs to refresh the England graffiti so you get the right span for the channel.
Then at the bends where you line up with an old mill on the bank we came across two narrowboats heading downstream, luckily there was enough water for us all to pass without anyone going aground, handy it was a spring tide with fresh coming down.
Nearly there!
We’d been told to call the Lock Keeper at the 48km marker, Mick left a message. The final bend and Cromwell Weir came into view followed by the lock. The light was red, but shortly turned to green as the gates opened to welcome us off the tidal Trent. Being able to be right back in the lock made for a gentle ascent.
Cromwell Lock
We needed a pit stop so pulled on to the inside of the pontoon mooring alongside a chap who’d just come from Torksey this morning. Lunch and an empty of our wee tank. NB No Rush soon followed us up, they’d stopped to give the dog a comfort break at Dunham. Blimey that wind and now rain had got up, Will very nearly lost his boat whilst trying to moor up, Mick ran to lend a hand and between everyone they got their boat secured.
Would there be space for us
Time to move on. David was moored at North Muskham outside the Muskham Ferry. Here there are finger pontoons, short finger pontoons, would we be able to moor up safely? It took three attempts to get Oleanna’s bow close enough to the pontoon for me to jump off and quickly secure the bow rope before the wind and current dragged the stern away down stream pivoting the bow into the side of a cruiser. Thankfully things held and we could finish securing Oleanna next door to David.
Just like Mr Ben a chap turned up on the pontoon, saying he was from the local parish council and asked if we were David’s friends? We’re not sure how it came about, but David has been supported by the Parish Council of North Muskham for about a week. Piles of fire wood sat on the pontoon and a pub meal was being paid for by them each day.
So pretty and in better light than last time we passed.
We are by no means mental health experts, we can listen, hold a hand, give hugs and try and help with practical things. David was in a state as we’d expected. The man we’d met last year we knew we’d not be seeing today. With his problems he’s let the boat and himself go.
Where to start? What to do?
Cormorant and Swan convention
David had been in touch with so many organisations, he’d managed to register with a GP in Newark, the Crisis team had been out to him. But it all felt like he was going round and round in circles, nothing helping, nothing working, just constantly being pushed to the next organisation or a different part of the NHS.
We made a call to his GP. The receptionist tried to help but couldn’t, if David was feeling suicidal than he had to go to A&E something he really really didn’t want to do. Eventually we were given the number of the Crisis team. Mick called them leaving a message voicing our concerns. He had a call back, data protection meant that David had to give consent for us to be part of the conversation, so the phone had to come off speaker and be handed to him. Once that was sorted we were told that David had an appointment for the morning in Newark.
Torksey Lock
We did a bit of shopping for him, an idyllic walk along the side of the A1 to get to the service station! Sitting outside chatting with David we were joined by a lady who’d been wild swimming, she knew the right things to say, to ask questions, showed care for a complete stranger. What a wonderful person she was.
David joined us inside Oleanna to warm up, have some food, maybe a shower. Instead we ended up chatting with Heather Bleasdale on the phone about all sorts of things, quite a bit about the cruiser she bought a few months ago and what jobs were needing to be done. The pub delivered some chips for David, but they weren’t what he needed, sleep was more important to him even if he’d not eaten properly for a few days.
Neighbours
Later on Mick got another phone call from the crisis team, where were we and what time would we like a cab to get us to the meeting in the morning. We’d assumed that the meeting had already been planned, but it turns out our concerned phone calls had triggered it. The lady was very helpful, told us who we’d be meeting. We hoped that this would be the way out of the circle David felt he was in.
I cooked a meal, we watched TV, went to bed early hoping we’d get a better nights sleep.
2 locks, 1 swing bridge, 1 windy day, 2 possible stop offs, 0 used, 2 sausage sarnies, 1 pit stop, 3 attempts to moor, 1 narrowboat clinging on for dear life, 1 broken man, 1 wonderful woman, 2 phone calls of concern, £19.75 for 30grams of tobacco! 1 meeting for tomorrow.
Thorne Services to the big bend between Moores and Maud’s Bridges
Before breakfast we pushed back off the service pontoon to free up space should anyone be passing and want to fill with water. This took quite a bit of doing to keep facing eastwards as there wasn’t much room to manoeuvre the bow round as the wind was doing it’s best to blow the stern that way. But nudging back and forth Mick got Oleanna turned. We then headed backwards to moor up behind a line of wide beams and Dutch barges, tied to railings, not the best place but at least we’d freed up the water point.
First new green Biffa Recycling bin spotted!
Just as we’d finished the boat that had been moored next to us pulled out and headed towards the lock. Oh well we’d stay put.
Breakfast then a trip into town to post the socks and then stock up on supplies for the next week. Everything was stowed away and we were about to untangle our ropes from the undergrowth when the heavens opened again with wintery showers. An early lunch was called for.
Grrrr!
Princess Royal Swing Bridge lived up to its reputation today! I turned the key, opened the panel, no click from the barriers. I walked over to the other side the annoying barrier closed but not the other one, it was locked in place. Keys out try again. Nothing.
Mick tied Oleanna up and came to have a go too. Still nothing, that click on turning the key just was not happening. We tried wiggling the gates, turning the key, pressing buttons that are just lights, anything and everything. Then in unison Mick pushed the troublesome gate back as I turned the key as far as it would go, Bingo! The click! The gates hadn’t registered as being closed by the looks of it, so therefore you couldn’t open them!
Job done and we were on our way again passing the four abreast boats on the other side of the road bridge.
Back where we started Blue Water Marina
We pulled in at Blue Water Marina for a top up of diesel. At the moment they don’t sell to passing boaters, but as we’d moored there over winter Sarah was happy to give us a top up of 37 litres, we wanted a full tank before heading out onto the tidal Trent, however we didn’t really want to spend the £1.50 a litre, but needs must.
Five weeks ago we’d pulled out from Blue Water to move Oleanna to the other side of Thorne Lock before the stoppage started, today we were back where we’d started having just come through the lock yesterday which will at last close on Monday. Today we wanted to get a bit further east towards Keadby.
The bridges between Thorne and Keadby are all that little bit different from each other. Today we passed under Wykewell Lift Bridge (fully automated with the key of power and button pressing) then Moores Swing Bridge (key of power, button pressing, flashing lights, manual barriers). I managed to hold up 8 cars in all.
The railway hugs the canal for much of the 10 miles to Keadby, not a busy line, but quite a lot of freight heading to and from Drax Power Station. We’d identified a couple of bends in the canal that head away from the line so we planned to stop on one of them.
The land around here is so flat which increases the amount of sky. Ahead of us white clouds and blue sky. Behind heavy dark almost black clouds, winter precipitation hanging waiting to fall.
We just got moored up before the next wave of winter weather crossed overhead. The fire was stoked up, Tilly allowed out and a chicken tray bake popped in the oven.
Two skies in one
No knitting this evening, just a request from my cousin for my sock pattern. This is more of an equation than a pattern so I’m not sure she’ll understand it, but I tried my best. Then sewing up a hole in the pocket of Mick’s waterproof padded trousers. We’ll be needing layers when we go out onto the Trent, I may even dig out the balaclavas I made three years ago for a trip in the opposite direction.
Bramwith Junction to Pollington Lock, Aire and Calder
A very chilly start
Time to put a plan together. Sitting around waiting for my glasses to arrive doesn’t get the water tank filled or other boat jobs done. So after breakfast and updating the blog we had a boat conference. These are actually quite rare, most discussions of our plans are held as we stand on the back of Oleanna, but today we needed to concentrate.
Our original plan had been to make use of the weeks whilst Thorne Lock was shut. The London Leckenby’s have a few days in York so we’d planned to join them, maybe even a boat trip into our home city as Jac and Josh have never done this and the tour guides on Oleanna know exactly where to stop to see our family home from the river. Various boat jobs to get done and do. Friends to catch up with around the area etc. Also being in the area for a change over of lodgers at the house would be handy. It all had fitted together quite nicely. Then after Easter we would head southwards on the Trent, the quick way south.
The Don Doors again!
But since the dates for the stoppage at Thorne Lock have changed we’ve been in a quandary. Spending time in York is very appealing especially since Andrew and I haven’t been in the city together for at least 6 years and that was for a funeral. Catching up with friends is something we’d wanted to do summer before last, but floods and the pandemic put paid to that as we were rafted up with other boats at Naburn for several days.
Should we stay and do all those things?
Should we leave before the lock closes in a couple of weeks?
We’ve spent a lot of time mulling this over and every day for the last week we’ve discussed it further, but still not come up with a plan. Today we needed a plan.
Our discussion actually was relatively short.
Swing
If the London Leckenby’s hadn’t been coming up to York then we doubt we’d have been considering heading that way at this time of year. We’ve upgraded to a Gold Licence this year and if we stayed on this side of Thorne Lock and then exited via the Pennines it would mean us loosing about a months worth of Goldness. Decision made, we will be heading south on the Trent as soon as the tides look suitable.
A list of things we need to do was drawn up. Approximate dates worked out and ,most importantly a phone call made to Keadby Lock to book our passage. Sadly there was only an answerphone to talk to, but we knew someone would call us back.
With water needed we pushed off along the New Junction Canal again. If my glasses arrive in the next few days we’ll aim to be near a station to get back to Doncaster to collect them.
Lift bridge ahead
We made our way back swinging and lifting bridges. Before Sykehouse Lock three narrowboats that passed us yesterday were moored up, they looked like they were settled for a few days of company, jobs and possibly even a barbeque.
As we came through the last narrowing where a swing bridge used to be the light at the lock changed to red, shortly followed by green. There were plenty of people around. The volunteer who must live there in the tower, another C&RT chap by the bridge and a couple of boaters, so there was plenty of help to move the bridge out of our way and then back once we were below it.
Water water everywhere!
At the end of the New Junction we turned left and headed towards Pollington Lock.
A couple of bank slippages are marked with yellow buoys. These were there when we walked the stretch shortly after the breach happened Christmas 2020. Short red posts and some spray paint mark the worst bits.
Blackthorn blossom
The visitor moorings below Pollington Lock were empty so we pulled up to the space closest to the water point and got the tap going. We very quickly remembered that the pressure is appalling at this tap, no sitting and waiting for the tank to fill, best to get on with other things and forget about it. Thankfully we can check our water gauge every now and then to know when the tank was full, the pressure so low that there’d be no boom from our tank and no major gushing of water coming out of the over flow, just a gentle trickle. It took longer than two hours to fill us up!
Handy picnic bench!
Tilly checked out the picnic table, but wasn’t overly impressed with the mooring. She’s managed to get on the other side of the ditch here before which makes for an interesting rescue. Mick however looked at the picnic table and realised what we’d be doing tomorrow!
1 lock, 7.32 miles, 3 swing bridges, 3 held up, 3 lift bridges, 6 held up, 2 outsides, 6%, 6th pair knitted, 2 plus hours to fill, 2 pairs of odd socks, 1 conference, 1 plan at last, 1 call booked, 1 useful picnic table and tap.
