The aim was to set off at 10am this morning. Bridget and Storm were going to see if they could park their van up near Red Bull, if they could then they’d walk back down the locks to meet us, we got a message to say they’d succeeded. We pushed off in the slightly chilly morning.
ZZ Top just about to push out and Bridget waiting for us
As we approached the bottom of the Lawton Locks we could see we’d caught up with the ZZ Top boat, they were American, husband, wife and brother. One of them had walked up to set the locks ahead and our crew sat on the lock beams awaiting our arrival, both bottom locks open and awaiting a boat.
With three crew we were up the first lock quicker, Mick, Storm and Bridget lifted paddles for the other boat on the paired lock. Next a single lock, we moved on first leading the way and lifting a paddle to empty the lock behind us.
Storm ready to close gates
With locks already empty ahead and three experienced crew we were sailing up the locks. It’s lovely to have extra hands to help, but even better when you just know they know what they are doing and should anything go wrong they will react in a necessary way. One person could happily walk on ahead to open gates.
Halls Lock 49
By Halls Lock the sun had burnt through any morning mist that had lingered, it was going to be another wonderful day on the cut.
Crew ideally positioned
At Church Bottom and Top Lock a chap appeared with a windlass wanting to come down, we left the bottom lock with it’s gate open for him. But then there was no sign of him and his boat. ZZ Top could be seen approaching, Bridget walked down to let them know what was happening, just as the chap rounded the bend towards the top lock.
ZZ Top coming up behind
Everyone hopped on board to cruise up to the next line of locks. I could move Oleanna straight from one lock to the next with such efficient crew. Only one downhill boat was passed and that was just below Red Bull Lock.
The building here used to be C&RT offices, but there are new owners now. Despite the big blue sign boasting all the services here, there is now a padlock on the toilet and shower door, these services now lost to boaters. A long time ago there used to be washing machines and driers here too. At least there is still water, rubbish, elsan and a pump out.
Here a gang of C&RT volunteers were packing up for the day, they tend to trim the towpath and keep things looking neat and tidy along this stretch, they do a very good job. As Oleanna rose in Red Bull Lock one of the volunteers came to chat. It was obvious we wouldn’t be needing an extra pair of hands. He asked Bridget which way we were going, he wanted to make sure we knew about the current stoppage at Bosley Locks, the summit pound of the Macclesfield currently closed after a sluice malfunctioned dropping the level.
Red Bull in sight
As Oleanna rose I got chance to chat to Ken, the volunteer. He normally works the Bosley flight but as it’s closed he’d come to join the work party here, then see if he could be of assistance to anyone. Our chosen route to Yorkshire is via the Macc, we’re hoping that the levels improve before we get there. Ken thought they might reopen the locks later today, it shouldn’t be too long anyway. We still have a back up plan should anything ahead of us go wrong, well that was until we later in the day heard that the lock beam at Colwick Lock on the Trent and Mersey had failed and the navigation was now closed!
One more lock to rise up before we stopped for the day. Once moored up, I checked Google Earth, the trees looked safe for Tilly, out she went SHOUTING her head off with excitement. Lunch was had onboard Oleanna with cruising flapjack for pudding. The it was time for Bridget and Storm to head off to their baby sitting duties.
Pip, Mick , Bridget and Storm
What a lovely couple of days it’s been with them. Have they got the boating bug again? I don’t think they ever lost it, at least we’ve given them a fix to keep them going for a while longer.
A load of washing was hung out to dry, then once Tilly returned Mick and I headed off to Tescos for a stock up. Yes Lidl is closer, but they don’t have much in the way of gluten free things for me which needed replenishing. Back on board the stove was lit, I made a giant cauliflower cheese with extras, enough left over for one which was popped in the freezer for later.
Bye bye, see you soon
11 locks, speedily ascended, 2.6 miles, 4 smiling crew, 0 mellow, 1 splattery poo, 1 lovely day to be boating, 4 hours shore leave curtailed to 2, 2 more awarded later, 2 boxes wine, 1 fully laden bike, 1 boat back where it left 2 weeks ago.
The hire boat was the first to go past, we took our time, Tilly was even allowed an hours shore leave whilst we did our morning routine. Much to my surprise when I called for her she responded pretty quickly and came running back to the boat. Well it was still too early for friends to be out to play.
Lots of windlasses needed today
As we moved up to Wheelock I gave the inside a sweep through and a bit of a tidy. The sander, drill etc I’d pulled out the other day could be put somewhere else to free up the dinette as we’d be needing more sitting space today. The services were empty when we arrived, time to top up on water and dispose of rubbish. As we were finishing a boat came from the locks, they pulled right over into the offside, it felt like they were wanting to pull in at the water point and were waiting for us. Well they weren’t, the person at the tiller had helm dyslexia, they managed to get past us, but went totally skew wiff at the bridge behind us blocking the way for the little NB Titanic 2 who was following us.
Wheelock Bottom Lock
Now to start our ascent of the Cheshire Locks for the second time this year, the sun was out, what a lovely day, not too hot, perfect.
At the second lock up the bottom gates wouldn’t close fully. We suspected a pipe fender on the cill. Mick waggled the gate to encourage it to close, but there was still a four inch gap. Would water pressure help? Paddles were wound up gently to start with, the level rose, the gate stayed where it had been. A touch more paddle and Oleanna shot forward no matter how much reverse I gave her! More waggling of the gate, it closed a touch more.
That cottage again
Up we came, the pound seemed a touch low. We made to exit, a boat already waiting to come down. Something wasn’t quite right we were having difficulty getting over the cill. With the bottom gates leaking we reversed back into the lock, Mick took a run up this time, thankfully it worked and we were on our way again.
No way you’d be opening those gates
Mick worked the locks and I followed with Oleanna. Not too many boats coming down. Locks 64 and 63 have one of the paired locks well and truly closed at the moment, to help with water management, due to leaky paddles?! The pounds between locks did seem a touch low.
Above Lock 62 I could see lots of smoke, someone was moored up. It turned out to be NB Tixall, a steam powered narrowboat. The two chaps sat on the bank waiting for her to get up enough steam to move. Sat behind them, on the other end of the lock landing was a Heritage Hire boat, the crew looked like ZZ top with big white fluffy beards. They were enjoying their sandwiches and the view from the winding hole.
Tixall and ZZ Top
Mick walked up to the next pair. He then appeared back down the steps and stood directly under the bridge in full shade. I could see he was waggling his arms. I could tell he’d never been taught how to find his light on stage. I eventually made out that there was a boat coming down the off side lock, the towpath side must have been out of action. ZZ Top were also gesticulating at me, but I was trying to decipher Micks shady signs.
I held back, one of the chaps from Tixall came to apologise for being on the lock landing, he’d had a medical emergency yesterday smashing his face on the boat. Suspect he’s got some more bruising to come out. A cuppa was making things better and once they’d got up steam they’d be on their way again.
Above Lock 61 we pulled in, a late lunch needed by now. We made sure to pull up past both lock landing and winding hole. Messages now came through from further up the locks, our crew were on their way down, walking from Rode Heath to meet us.
Plenty of crew
Bridget and Storm are old friends. I used to work with Bridget at Hull Truck where we discovered we both had an interest in narrowboating. They had a boat built, NB Blackbird and took a year off to explore the network. When we bought NB Lillyanne we cruised with them on and off, then seven years ago we spent much of the summer with them on the Lancaster Canal. In fact today it is seven years since we crossed back to Tarleton from the Lanky. We’ve been trying to meet up this year and so far have missed them by a week. But this weekend they have baby sitting duties with their grandkids in Wales, so our position was perfect to meet up, give them a boating fix helping with the locks.
Time to chat at the locks
We were soon on the move again. Some locks needed turning, others were in our favour. Mick and Storm walked on ahead setting and working the locks whilst Bridget and I had a very good catch up as we moved from lock to lock up the flight. The sun was out, good company to help with the locks, what a great afternoon.
and on board too
Today we pulled in at Rode Heath, in the middle of the Cheshire Locks, sadly too close to cat curfew time for Tilly to have any shore leave, Well it’s woofer land round here anyway! Bridget and Storm had come in their camper van, the pub kindly allowing them to stay overnight in their car park.
The pub
A table was booked at the pub, a 30% off main courses voucher was downloaded. A very lovely evening with them both over food and drinks.
That sounds interesting!
14 locks, 5.3 miles, 2 boats on lock landings and winding holes, 2 big fluffy beards, 2 boaty friends, 1 lovely day, 1 pie, 1 fish and chips, 1 scampi, 1 hunters chicken, 6 pints, 2 glasses of wine, 1 lovely catch up, 1 Mrs Tilly stamp for last nights mooring.
This morning was planned. Get up push over to the water point, dispose of yellow water, fill up, as the tank filled have breakfast, wind, head to the moorings below the boat lift, Geraghty zoom if they were still there to join, then ascend the lift.
It was chucking it down! Neither of us wanted to spend another Sunday getting soaked on the boat lift. Waterproofs on we pushed over to the water point. As soon as I got inside I checked to see if we could do the lift tomorrow instead. When Mick came in he’d been thinking the same as there was an 80% chance of rain for much of the rest of the day. First lift booking at 9am tomorrow, we opted for 10am, our booking was changed.
Next I did a plan of our route for the next ten days on Canal Plan, would loosing a day mean we’d be needing long days to achieve our next transport hub. The overnight stops all seemed to be where we’d most probably end up anyway. Our plan was complete.
Tank full we reversed back to where we’d come from, squeezing back in. 10:15 we joined the Geraghty zoom. Subjects, halls of residence, being at Uni for 52 weeks a year, Izal toilet paper and wall washing, the later subject we came in towards the end so I’m not sure what that was about.
Hello Tilly down there!
What to do on a wet day in Northwich? Go the pictures! I checked what was on. For once there were a couple of possible films on the list, all with afternoon screenings. Right at the end of the list was a National Theatre Live screening of Prima Facie. I’ve been wanting to see this for ages. We’d missed it online for some reason, and I’ve looked at other cinemas in the past but it’s been fully booked. I checked the seating plan. LOADS of seats. I snapped up two straight away.
Chicken, Ham, Leek Dauphinoise Pie
Lunch first with some of our market swag. The chicken, ham, leek dauphinoise pie was so yummy I’m going to have a go at making one myself. Then I had the difficult discission of which sweet thing to have, half of each. I suspect they’d have been nicer yesterday, but they were still yummy and quite indulgent, well it was a miserable Sunday!
Half and half
All of two minutes walk to the Odeon next door. We resisted any food or drink from the kiosk much to the surprise of the lady checking tickets. The film did have people turning up during the trailers and even into the play, some missing a good fifteen minutes.
A bit different from the deco Odeon we’re used to in Scarborough
Well. WOW! What a performance by Jodie Comer. A one woman show, that sounds like it’s a comedy/stand up, it’s far FAR from a comedy. So many words to retain and so few pauses, such quick delivery and emotion. We soon knew where the plot would be headed and suspected we knew the outcome. Not a jolly afternoons viewing by any means, but enjoyable despite the subject. I’m so glad I spotted it on the end of the listings. If you’ve never seen it I think it may be on in cinemas for the next few weeks.
Outside the day had decided to dry up, should we make a move to the moorings by the lift? No we opted to stay put, enjoy being in the warm. In Morrisons the other day they had Ducks on offer so one of those went in the oven, adding to the warmth from the stove we had a very cosy evening with very nice food.
0 locks, 0.1 mile, 0.5 of that in reverse, 1 wet day avoided, 1 new umbrella, pair 37 finished, 2 cinema seats, 1 incredible performance, 1 roast duck with plenty of left overs, HELLO!! remember me?! 1 extreamly bored cat!
Vale Royal Visitor Mooring to Odeon Pontoon, Northwich.
The locks on the River Weaver are open at 9am, we were wanting to get a mooring back in Northwich for the day, so ideally wanted to be on our way as soon as the locks opened. As we pushed off from our mooring Mick made a phone call to the lock, we were on our way from their top side.
We had less than half a mile to cruise to Vale Royal Locks, so took our time. On arrival the lock wasn’t ready, the swing bridge was still across the lock chamber. Was there anyone in sight? It took a while to spot someone in a blue t-shirt, he didn’t seem to be coming to work the lock. Mick checked his phone. Ahh he’d called Hunts Lock not this one! Who leaves Mick to make arrangements and bookings? The chap popped out of the little hut, a volunteer arrived, we got a wave, they were on their way.
8th swing bridge over a lock
The swing bridge had it’s ropes removed that hold it in place and then one of the chaps stood on the end of it as it gradually turned from over the lock, no winding of handles. On closer inspection later we noticed an electric drill was used to rotate the bridge.
We were joined by a boat that had stayed in Winsford last night, they’d had a peaceful night and were now heading into Northwich to moor for an hour or so and visit the market that was meant to be on today. Market! Did someone say Market? I looked for information online. The second Saturday in the month there is an Artisan Market in Northwich.
Spooky faces
We followed them down Hunts lock, then led the way in towards Northwich. Spaces on the wall where we’d moored on Sunday, we pulled up close to a boat already there, our locking partners pulled up close to us. Then Mick spotted a space on the pontoon, that would serve us better, we moved over, thanking the other boat for mentioning the market.
Straight to see what was what. The market stretched for most of Witton Street. Bakers, sausages, cheese, olives, macaroons, gin, beer, scotch eggs, lots to choose from and then stalls of things nobody actually needs in their lives.
There is no point in rushing in to the first stall that has something that looks nice, best to walk round everywhere, see what’s on offer then pounce, or as was the case today, join the queue!
The butchers window
A big sign behind one queue was for a gluten free bakers! Pies, pasties, numerous cakes, we’d certainly be coming back to this stall. Infact other bakery stalls didn’t get a look in. I joined the queue my eye s set on an egg custard, not had one for years. The amount of things people were buying, one chap requested 2 of these, 1 of those, a slice of that cake, a vanilla slice (my ears pricked up at that one), that scotch egg. The lady behind me made a very audible sign, she’d had her eyes on that scotch egg. She asked the baker if there were any more, ‘Sorry last one’ ‘No point queueing then’ She made sure she had words with the chap who had bagged the last scotch egg!
Our edible swag
The pies! Which one? Chicken ham leek and dauphinoise potato .The Sausage rolls, which one of them too? Pork and Black pudding. Oh dear was that a small custard and a vanilla slice that snooked into my bag too! Mick decided he’d see what C Webb and Sons had in the way of pork pies, they had a queue out of the door too. A warm pork pie and a sausage roll. Next we headed to the HS Bourne Cheese chap. Two wedges of treat cheese, some blue Cheshire and some clothbound Cheshire. That was enough edible swag for one day.
This afternoon we walked up to the station, from here we caught the train into Manchester. The London Leckenby’s had arrived in the afternoon with a very full car load, Josh was moving into Halls in Fallowfield at the University. Andrew and Jac had booked into the Ibis Hotel, once The Portland Hotel where I stayed in the early 90’s whilst working on props for the touring version of Phantom of The Opera.
Leckenbys
Big hugs all round, we then walked into the Northern Quarter to find a pub Andrew knew of, this took some time to find, but we got there in the end, it took a while longer to find a table. Beer and wine and lots of loud conversation were had before we then headed to Sweet Mandarin a few minutes walk away. I’d heard very good things about Sweet Mandarin as they have an extensive gf menu, a rare thing for a Chinese Restaurant. The food was very yummy, no-one noticed the lack of gluten. We drank, ate chatted away and had a very good evening.
Now Josh headed off to meet with a friend from Hackney who had also moved to Manchester today. His new life starting as he headed off on the top deck of a bus doing his best to ignore his mothers loud waves! They are seeing him again in the morning for the final goodbye. Another pint in a pub near to Piccadilly Station before we said goodbye to Andrew and Jac. A lovely evening celebrating Josh starting University.
Josh’s first night living in Manchester
2 locks, 3.1 miles, 1 right wrong number, 1 swing bridge, 4 rowing boats, 2 sausage rolls, 2 pies, 2 treat cheeses, 2 pudding yums, 2 trains, 13,893 steps with a pole, 1 new Mancunion, 2 Londoners, 1 old student trying to remember, 1 new student with places to discover, 1 great Chinese meal, 2 many glasses of wine, pairs 51, 52, and 53! 1 cat totally forgotten about!
A wet morning and my back had a twinge, last thing I wanted to do was get down on the floor to do my exercises, they could wait for another day. One thing that couldn’t wait for another day was a cruising plan. A joint effort was required and a touch of maths.
Serious planning
We both opened up Canal Plan. We worked out when we need to be back in Yorkshire, a mooring has already been found for Oleanna. Then specific dates when we need to be elsewhere, the number of days when Oleanna won’t be moving, which stops require a train station, which a marina. The way Canal plan works is that if you add in some stationary days then the end date of your cruise gets added to. We didn’t bother with this, instead we deducted the number of days Oleanna would be stationary from the full trip and kept a tally on how this affected trip days. I understood my method, Mick just had to go along with it and see if it worked. Thankfully it did. Yes we could have adjusted the trip on Canal plan and added in the stationary days but that would then be a touch ridged.
Three possible routes to try out and see if the dates would work.
Firstly the Huddersfield Narrow, the shortest cruise. Plenty of stations to choose from, if we got stuck by flooded rivers it would be the easiest to move the boat at short notice when levels came down. Marinas not so plentiful, but a slight adjustment to cruising hours made it work.
Second choice the Shroppie, the longest cruise. This would mean not doubling back on ourselves too much. Stations not so good, some buses would be needed. Cruising days on the Tidal Trent have some leeway and the tides look favourable to CRT working hours at the locks. Some adjustment required for a marina, but that would be manageable if they have room.
Third choice the T&M, in between the above cruises, retracing the way we’ve just come back to Fradley. The Tidal Trent on the same days as the Shroppie, better stations too.
The final choice is still to be made, but at least we could let friends know the two possible locations we’d be at for a rendez vous. About half an hours drive between them so at least they’d know where abouts to head in the first place.
We checked the radar. More rain due overhead. Two boats moved off, a while later they were replaced with another two. We were going to wait until after lunch, hoping the rain would subside. The two boats that had arrived headed off again in a lull in the showers.
Hello back there!
At 2pm we decided to make a move whether the weather was good or not. Waterproofs on we winded and headed down stream to Saltersford Locks. On arrival there was a boat moored on the lock waiting pontoon, where was the Lockie? We hovered for a while, then Mick rang the Lockie. The lock would be ready in about 15/20 minutes, the boat on the landing moved off and we could pull in to wait. Sure enough the lock took forever to fill, the Lockie set it filling and headed off for a while.
This is the only downstream lock we went through back in 2011, it holds 660,000 gallons of water and I think it was estimated back then that it could hold 27 Winding Downs. It sits alongside a smaller lock, but that hasn’t been used since the 70’s. We passed our ropes around bollards towards the back of the lock. The bow just by a set of disused centre gates. The lock was set emptying, this would take time too.
For sale with some period details!
Just below the lock was a water point we pulled in to fill up the tank. An end of terrace cottage, formerly a Lock Keepers cottage, is for sale. The pressure was pretty good so we were on our way again soon.
Pontoon Mooring?
We didn’t remember the journey to Dutton Locks from 13 years ago. Houses sit close by. Some leading up to Acton Bridge have pontoon moorings sticking out into the river, one of them for sale!
Acton Bridge
The moorings by Acton Bridge were full. We wanted to be further on anyway and the mooring certainly wouldn’t be cat friendly. Mick took the advice of the Lockie back at Saltersford and called ahead to the next lock, it would be set ready for us when we arrived.
Looking towards the weir
Above Dutton Locks the moorings were full. The sunk vessel we’d seen 13 years ago has degraded a lot! Maybe on our way back I’ll get a closer look, today we wanted to head on further. We pulled into the lock, the gates closed behind us and the water started to drain out through sluices in the side of the lock.
Disintegrating
Now on totally new water to all of us. Back in March 2011 the locks had been on winter opening hours meaning they had to be booked, we only had limited time on the river anyway so hadn’t ventured further, today we could carry on.
Dutton Viaduct came into view, dark against the rain laden clouds, sun streaming through where it could. The river has views, next to no flood banks. Open views, then tree lined banks. We had our hopes on a mooring a mile or so further, a little m on our map meaning we’d need spikes.
Dutton Viaduct
As it came into view it had great potential and there was only one boat moored up, space for us. We winded and pulled in a short distance up stream with trees to our bow and stern, our own slot. We’d found the Devil’s Garden mooring, both of us had heard of it before, a favourite for many.
Ducks are forever hopeful
Tilly was allowed out and we all had a little explore, checking signs and fences avoiding stepping in the cowpats. Tilly stayed out and played for a while, but it was blustery, rainy and she was wanting dingding.
They’ve come out to play too!
Mick lit the stove, we’d be needing one for our jacket potatoes to accompany a pie each. Yarn was selected for the next pair of socks, pair 37 I think. Thank you to those who’ve sponsored a pair this week I’ve now only got to find two more sponsors to make 52 pairs for the year and I’ve beaten last years total too! It may be that as the nights start drawing in I may be able to knit a few more pairs, after all why stop at 52, I’ve still got a mountain of yarn to use.
2 locks, 5.8 miles, 2.2miles of new water, 30 minutes for one lock, 1 full water tank, 1 damp blowy day, 2 pies, 2 jackets, 0 cows, 37 in 4 shades of blue, 1 cosy boat, 1 lovely mooring.
Forge Brook Aqueduct to opposite Northwich Quay Marina, River Weaver
The first boat to pass today
The alarm was set early, well you just don’t know when a coal boat might arrive. It turned out we could have had some more time tucked up in bed. Having a booking for the boat lift and we were going to be joined by our friend Lizzie for the day meant we’d be moving today no matter how hard it was raining!
The Geraghty zoom covered subjects such as Clare Baldwin, ping pong, the 70’s BBC drama Canal Children, Ballet Shoes and tuna. We kept an eye out in case NB Halsall arrived, but there was no sign of them. A message came through, it would be mid to late morning. Oh well, we’d got half a tank of diesel and a bag and a half of coal, hopefully we’d be okay.
A skip
Covers were rolled up, full waterproofs on we set off around 11am. At the Anderton Services we wanted to drop off some rubbish, but there were a couple of hire boats there. One lady offered to put our bags in the bins for us, which we accepted whilst hovering at the end of the services. Recently there have been several posts on social media with photos of mountains of rubbish around full bins here. Today the main bin area was cordoned off, instead there was a big skip, far more capacity for all those boats coming off the Bridgewater Canal where bins are almost none existent.
Halsall arriving
We made our way to the lift waiting moorings, pulling in behind another boat also booked for the 12:15 passage. Lizzie arrived too, everyone starting to drip a bit from the amount of rain. Mick went to see if he needed to check in, there are cameras so they know when you’ve arrived. Just as he was walking back to the boat NB Halsall was pulling up next to us. Mick was informed by the lift staff that we’d not be able to fuel up if we wanted to go down the lift, there were other boats coming up and there simply wasn’t time. We explained to Rachel on Halsall maybe we’d be able to see them elsewhere in a week or so. Then a more amenable chap came and asked if we’d like to change our lift booking to the next slot, there was space. Brilliant, thank you! We could now top up on fuel and coal and maybe even have a warming cuppa before our descent.
Rachel brought Halsall close again, we tied up. Brolli in hand the diesel tank was filled to the top and three bags of Excell were popped onto Oleanna’s roof. We were their last customer, they pushed back to wind and head back the way they’d come. £1.06 delivered in the rain, you’ve got to love coal boats.
The soggy three
Tap on the roof, waterproofs back on, it was time to descend the lift.
This would be Oleanna and Tilly’s seventh and final wonder of the waterways. Mick and I had been down the lift on NB Winding Down back in March 2011! (our blogs were a bit different back then) Back then it was unseasonably warm, today it was seriously WET!
We followed NB Lyndsey Jane onto the aqueduct that leads to the boat lift. Under the gate that cuts the rest of the Trent and Mersey Canal off from the lift. This then closed behind us.
In front we waited for the two gates to lift that would connect the aqueduct to the lift caisson. Once cleared we could proceed into the caisson. Stern ropes attached to the side and tied off, engines off.
Gates closing behind us
The gates behind us came down. One gate seals off the aqueduct from the lift, the other seals the water into the caisson. Once these are closed the water in the gap between them is emptied out.
Hello over there!
We then had a bit of a wait for things to start to happen. Then slowly the caisson started to descend, a very slight shuddering could be felt as we lowered. A boat was ascending in the other caisson, passing halfway as you’d expect. Looking upwards it felt a lot further than the 50ft we’d travelled between canal and river.
Another wait for the gates out onto the river to lift. The chap on board NB Lyndsey Jane said we could go first, he’d rather wait for the mud to finish dripping off the bottom gates. We obliged, any mud would very soon get washed away by the rain.
A blast of our horn as we came out onto the river and turned left. We pulled onto the 24 hour mooring where there was a good amount of space. With the covers back up we quickly retired inside to attempt to dry out and have some food. The shower was filled with coats and life jackets on hangers, some drip drying required.
Whoops!
What to do with the rest of the day? We walked up to the visitor centre a good look at all the information about the lift, I’m going to save that for when we go back up. There was also a really good collection of vintage arcade games. Why I don’t know. We refrained from exchanging money for tokens to get them working, but just looked instead. One box was filled with puppets around a house where accidents were waiting to happen. I’m fairly sure this chap shouldn’t have been balancing on the banister rails like he was.
Soggy at Anderton
Back at Oleanna we decided to head on to Northwich. It was still raining, we were still wet, might as well carry on being wet for a while longer. The river is quite rural on the way to town. There are a lot more moorings than there were in 2011, a new pontoon was chocka block. We carried on hoping there’d be space for us somewhere. Thankfully between the two bridges opposite the new (to us) marina there was a space just big enough. Phew!
A dry off, mick lit the stove, we had a glass of wine whilst we decided what to do for food. The nearest place was Relish Tandoori , just behind the flats we were moored infront of. They do a Sunday Buffet which seemed to be popular, we opted to join in.
Yum
Poppadoms, followed by a selection of starters, then six or seven main courses, all help yourself. Fresh nana bread too. Everything was very nice, better than most take aways we’ve had over the last few years. Only criticism was it all could have been just a touch hotter, they needed better candles! For the three of us with a drink each it came to just over £50.
Here we waved Lizzie goodnight as she headed back to her hotel. What a totally soggy day, but a rather good one. Thank you Lizzie for joining us.
Oleanna has now travelled the seven wonders of the waterways.
* Jim Shead’s Seven Wonders of the Waterways I think were slightly different, if anyone can remember them please let me know as the website no longer exists.
0 locks, 2.8 miles, 1 left, 1 lift, 7th wonder of the waterways, 4 siblings, 1 on the metro, 82 litres diesel, 60kg Excell, 3 very wet boaters, 1 very bored cat, 4 moorings in a day, 6 dripping sleeves.
A couple of days ago a new notice had come through from C&RT, Saltersford Lock on the Weaver was now open. Then yesterday a notice regarding Hunts Lock also on the river suggested things were progressing well, an update would be issued on the 11th. It was now worth continuing with our plan to descend the boat lift, fingers crossed the work at Hunts lock does the job.
Tilly got some shore leave in amongst the dog walkers, the field alongside the mooring here was being used by a chap on his bike cycling round it with his two woofers running along behind. He did several laps whilst his little boy trailed behind only managing one.
LOTS of food!
There were things in the fridge that needed eating up, especially the white pudding we’d bought in Leek, so we had a leisurely morning, no need for lunch today!
With my knitting out the back we pootled onwards, quite a few boats heading our way, Bramble Cuttings was empty, was it last night? There were two boats moored opposite which suggested it had been occupied.
NB Huffler back on the main land
As we came past the flashes, we passed bows with NB Huffler. They had crossed the Ribble Link with our friend Chris (The Pink Hat Man) on NB Elektra quite a few weeks ago, then they were caught by the breach on the Lancaster Canal and the broken sea lock on the link. Not a good situation to be in. A few days ago they were lifted out and transported by lorry to Lymm where they were put back in to be able to cruise back to their home mooring for winter.
We then hoped we’d get to see another boat NB Halsall the coal boat, they were due to leave Park Farm Marina today heading for the Anderton Boat Lift. But there was no sign of them, we expected they were a long way ahead of us. However later on in the day we got news that they were actually behind us, maybe they’d catch up with us before Anderton.
Waiting patiently for two to come through
As we reached The Broken Cross Pub we could see a boat coming through the bridge, Mick pulled us over to the side where we trod water opposite the moored boats. A second boat came into view, we waited. As the chap came past he made a comment about the reeds that were encroaching from the offside, ‘if they weren’t there it would be a lot easier! Just what do we pay our licence fees for?!’ Well if that bunch of reeds was removed the only difference would have been that we’d have been able to wait for him to come through the bridge 60ft closer to it. So no difference to us really.
Approaching Tata
Coming through by the Tata Chemical works, cranes were busy on the site of the new power station that is being built. Right by the canal was a new structure which looked like a futuristic Swiss cottage on stilts wearing a very large roller on it’s roof. As we cruised past we could see several very large fans underneath , around 6m across, maybe this is a new version of a cooling tower? More info on the sustainable power station can be found here.
We finally pulled in, half an hours cruise from the Anderton Boat Lift, a little distance away from another boat giving Tilly some extra towpath. Across the fields bells could be heard, most probably from Great Budworth, someone was getting married maybe. However this was soon overtaken by a new large structure being erected on the nearest farm, steel work being hit into submission and then bolted together. This noise continued until dark.
That is when we got the sound of fireworks. Maybe it was the wedding, distant music could also be heard. If it was coming from the wedding the couple must have had a very big budget! Then after maybe 15 minutes we got fireworks again. These went on for quite sometime with a big finale. Another gap, then more. What was going on? Was there a firework convention going on?
It turns out that tonight in several locations across the country there were big firework festivals/competitions. Manufacturers showing off. The one we could hear was most probably coming from Arley Hall, there was also one in Blackpool and one at Catton Hall near Swarkstone at the other end of the T&M, 50 odd miles away. Shame we couldn’t see any of them!
0 locks, 7.5 miles, 3.75 hours shore leave, 3 hours of fireworks, 15 minutes dinging, 5 hours steel fabrication, 1 sock up to the gusset, 1 more pair sponsored.
Some shore leave before we moved on today, with the rest of the locks through Middlewich to work through we didn’t want to be too late leaving and Tilly obliged by returning in good time.
Bee and clover
Such familiar water this stretch. by the railway bridges there used to be a winding hole just long enough for Carefree Cruising boats to wind in before returning to base by Elton Moss Bridge, but now you’d be lucky to be able to turn a 40fter there, so overgrown.
Nice Lock
Nice Lock 67 had a boat just leaving it, if there was going to be one lock I’d operate on the Cheshire Locks this would be the one. I hopped off with a windlass, Mick closed the top gate and I wound the paddles up at the bottom end. This was quite often the first lock we’d go through on NB Winding Down, hence it’s Nice name, but it also was likely to be the last lock too, then it got named Nasty Lock! But now it’s always Nice.
Knitting as we cruise
Down the Booth Lane Locks meeting a couple of boats heading up. The last of these boats had a hobbling lady walking the towpath, she should have caught a lift as they were only going to have to wait at the next lock for the boat ahead of them to go up.
Statics avoiding looking towards the canal
More new houses going up and some static caravans are also being plumbed in right beside the canal, no canal view though as very few of their windows faced the water.
Mick as blue as the sky
What a glorious day to be boating. Sun blue skies and not too hot. Should we have a mooring today where we could have a bbq what would we eat? There were some sausages or mince, both frozen. Maybe we should see what the new small Morrisons could provide for us.
King’s Lock
We pulled in close to the fish and chip shop, two houses along the way for sale. Well except it was quite hard to pull in. A new length of armco looked appealing, but either there was a sunken vessel there or a ledge, we tried further along, and again. Finally we made it close enough to the bank. The gate to the road leads just that straight onto the road, no pavement just a little gravellyness then the busy road. Morrisons was out of various items, but there were some burgers and a bag of mixed peppers. I checked the free from items. That bread looked nice, ah no wonder it was Rye Bread, first ingredient, Wheat! No wonder they had quite a lot of it!!
We’d originally not planned on stopping in Middlewich, but to carry on straight through, but now we were moored up we had lunch. With one boat just ahead of us when we pushed off again we waited to use King’s Lock. This boat was going onto the water point then up onto the Branch, we had another two possible water points to choose from.
winding a 70fter
Just as I was about to bring Oleanna out from the lock a 70ft hire boat arrived, were they turning up to Wardle Lock and the Branch, no just winding. With a boat on the water point and a CRT work boat the other side of the junction this limited their turning circle. Their wind taking ages, but they managed it in the end. We followed them down to the Middlewich three.
With the opportunity of there being volunteers at each lock I decided I’d like to work the locks as I’d only need to do half the work. However there was a long wait. Another hire boat was under tuition coming up the locks so we and the boat ahead had to wait. The volunteer wasn’t going to let anyone through the lock until the uphill boat had cleared, both boats could have gone down in that time.
I let Mick bring Oleanna round the bend towards the middle lock
The 7/8 chaps on the hire boat in front seemed to know what they were doing and were soon on their way. The volunteer I suspect was a touch deaf as I asked if I could fill the lock. ‘NO!’ He then gestured to wind a paddle up! We were soon on our way down, I checked that there were other volunteers at the locks, ‘Yes’ marvellous! That was until the other two volunteers walked up to the top lock and said the middle lock was filling. Even my walking pole didn’t suggest we’d need assistance, they then vanished into thin air. Oh well the first time I’d been looking forward to having assistance at the locks and it wasn’t going to happen.
Last of the narrow locks for a bit
I opened up the middle lock, the chaps from the boat ahead lifted a paddle to refill the bottom lock for us. I worked us down the middle lock then Mick and I swapped over for the bottom lock, I could do no more.
Yarn bombed posts
We pulled onto the next water point and toped up the tank, emptied the yellow water and then made ready to push onwards. Big Lock had just been emptied, but we were soon on our way down. We’d totally forgotten about Middlewich on an afternoon, especially on a Friday, we’d thought we’d be through by early afternoon, but that pause for lunch! Saturdays it’s shareboat central at the junction, Fridays seemed to be hire boats! Mental note for next time, avoid certain days, avoid afternoons and the volunteers will clock off as soon as either the chippy opens or after the last hire boat is through.
Big Lock
It was getting quite late, we’d thought of heading on to Bramble Cuttings, not that much further, but on a sunny Friday afternoon there was likely to be no room for us. So when we came across Croxton Aqueduct and the towpath widened out and there was plenty of space we pulled in. Tilly was given an hour whilst we got ourselves ready for a bbq. The burgers I’d bought were really quite fatty and sent big flames up from the coals, charring everything. I gave them a few minutes rest away from the fire before finishing them off which seemed to calm them down a touch. A lovely evening sat out none the less watching and eating as the sunset.
Just about ready to start cooking
9 locks, 5.9 miles, 1 straight on, 1 new edge too shallow, 1 nice lock, 1 knee still able to do the T&M hurdles, 3, 2, 1, 0 volunteers, 1 closed council tip, 4 fatty burgers, 4 pepper haloumi kebabs, 1 bowl coleslaw, 1 sunset.
Below Plant’s Lock 41 to before Rookery Railway Bridges 158A
Up early, breakfasted, exercised, covers rolled up and outside ready to push off before 9:12, which is when our extra crew arrived. Paul Balmer had kindly offered to help us down the Cheshire Locks today and had made his way up from Birmingham to join us. Once his ruck sack was stowed inside Oleanna we were on our way. Me at the helm, Mick and Paul walking ahead to work the locks.
Starting on down
We’ve done the Cheshire Locks many times before, our share boat was based in Sandbach for her first few years. From what we can remember we’ve never done them all in one day before. It also depends on where you consider the locks starting and ending. We’d already done the top lock yesterday, our aim was to get down the two locks at Wheelock before stopping for the day, there are still 5 more locks to Middlewich Junction, then three round the corner to Big Lock, we don’t count these last 9.
Bye Mick
Having two crew made things pretty quick, both working a lock then one walking ahead to set the next whilst the other stayed to close up behind. I just had to keep up with them both!
Chatting
It was a grey dreary day, with a slight amount of wetness in the air every so often, but that didn’t put us off. Dropping down to Red Bull services we had Police Officers asking if we’d seen a chap in red shorts covered in tattoos, we couldn’t help. Mick dropped the rubbish off as we went past the bins. Only one other boat moored between the tunnel and the bottom of Townfield Lock 46, where were all the boats!?!
Hall’s Lock 49 a cruiser coming up one of the paired locks
The chaps hopped back on board to ride to Church Top Lock, Mick taking over the helm so I could sit down. Mick and I over the years have developed hand signs to convey information. Boat coming up, boat going down, walking, can I have a lift, I’m walking ahead is that okay? On several occasions Paul came to relay information to me, Mick had already beaten him with our signs. It didn’t matter as it was nice to have someone to talk to.
Looking back to Hall’s Lock
Whilst Oleanna and I dropped down inside each lock Mick and Paul chatted away up top, boats and trains most probably the main subjects covered. Gradually as we worked down hill the canal lost it’s bright orange hue from the tunnel, the only residue was left as small drips on Oleanna’s clean roof!
Crew ahead at the next lock waiting for a boat to come up.
At Hall’s Lock we met an up hill boat at the paired locks, both in use today. Then we passed a few more through the Lawton Locks, crew from other boats helping where needed.
Click photo for details
Everyone on board to cruise to Rode Heath where there were a few boats moored. Above the lock a house for sale. Normally this would be a stopping point for us, but it was still too early even for a lunch break.
The oven was heated up and just before the two Pierpoint Locks a tray of sausage rolls were popped in the oven. I’d guessed at cooking and cooling time, but the chaps were a touch too quick with the locks so we had to wait for them to cool down for a while before tucking in. What was in the Quality Street tin to follow? Apple flapjack of course, this years cruising fuel.
57 varieties
There was Paul’s list to go through, there’s always a list of questions and subjects to cover. We also had plenty of photos to look at too. Maybe if we’d have stopped ten minutes earlier we’d not have been second in line for Lock 57, but we were.
I remember them!
One boat coming up, another to go down, then two coming up sharing. Were these the two we came across earlier this year, in a similar area? Almost certainly. I had to call Mick back to help get Oleanna off the bottom, too many boats mooring in this pound and not enough carrying on up to let water down.
Sitting in the locks I got to see things from a different angle. The buffer plates in the T&M locks vary quite a bit, the most interesting ones most probably the oldest ones. Looking back, picking Mick up every now and again I spotted that quite a few sets of steps have had the stone treads turned upside down, the worn area now filled with mortar, but a new flat step on the top.
Clover
Earlier this year, possibly at Maddocks Lock 59 I took a photo of all the daffodils between the paired locks. Today the grass is filled with clover flowers, many past their best.
That red buoy upstaging everything!
At Clear Water Lock 63 we took our time exiting. Paul wanted some photos and the depth below the water measuring. A boat hook came in handy for measuring. The depth of water up to my chest, the first rung of the lock ladder at our cabin height!
I got to see a lot of backs today
The pound below the lock was a good 14 inches low and Oleanna took her time to cross over the bottom cill. A boat waited below. As Oleanna exited I’d need to turn her to miss the boat, the bow thruster came in handy as there was nowhere for the stern to go. I very nearly ran out of space as the chap on the waiting boat had stopped waiting, and was heading straight towards the lock, reducing my manoeuvring room all the time! He’d apparently asked Mick why I was taking so long, was there something around the prop? No there was only just enough water under my boat making her unresponsive. Maybe I should have just stopped and waited to see how far he was going to bring his boat. I could have had a go at him, but just said Hello instead, life’s too short to deal with an impatient Twonk head!
In the last lock of the day
Mick would climb back on board when ever there was a slightly longer gap between locks so I could have a sit down. Only two more locks to descend, down to Wheelock, then we’d be on the flat again for some distance. Onwards we cruised to just before Rookery Railway Bridges where there are mooring rings and some rather good friendly cover for Tilly.
Paul, Pip and Mick, the Cheshire crew
Another cuppa and some flapjack to keep Paul going before he headed off to walk to Sandbach Station. Thank you so much for your help today Paul and for your company.
25 locks, 7.9 miles, 9 sausage rolls, 12 pieces of flapjack, 2 many low pounds, 1 short ladder, 1 impatient twonk, 2 emergency safety pins, 5 hours 20 minutes, 1 hour shore leave, 1 big fish pie, not enough time to award a Mrs Tilly stamp.
Well that new detector! It’s position on the ceiling directly over my head whilst in bed was a problem last night. Around the big test button is a ring of green light which flashes every 30 seconds or so. All detectors tend to flash, but this one was SO BRIGHT that it felt like the aliens were invading. Yes I tried turning over and I did have my eyes closed but the light flashed through my eye lids time after time after time! I’m aware that I was awake trying to ignore it for at least two hours, thankfully then I fell asleep.
Byebye, see you again somewhere sometime
We couldn’t be tardy this morning, we’d something to tick of the ‘Next Time’ list. A quick chat with Mike on NB Alchemy before we pushed off. It was really good to be able to meet up, until next time, happy cruising for the remainder of the year.
As it says, Middleport Pottery
A mile and a half to cruise and we pulled in on the visitor moorings at Middleport Pottery, with a booking for Harecastle Tunnel this afternoon we hoped there’d be enough time for us to enjoy the pottery. You can wonder around the site for free, but if you pay then you get to go inside various rooms and workshops, if you pay more you can get to go round the working Burleigh Pottery Factory. We opted for the Heritage Trail. With green stickers and a key fob we could guide ourselves round the pottery.
What a great model
Middleport Pottery was the first pottery to be designed by an architect, the whole process of the factory taken into account with the products flowing through from one area to the next. In came the clay by boat, off loaded, it was cleaned, made ready for which ever process it was destined for, slip for casting, put through a pug mill for Jiggering, Jolleying and pressing into various shapes and patterns. Drying. Biscuit firing in bottle kilns, patterns applied, glazes painted or dipped on, dried again, then into the Glosting bottle kilns for their final firing, then packed up and loaded back onto boats to head of to be sold.
Dane returning with a hold full of people
Here in Stoke they had both clay and coal, the canal alongside aided the more reliable transportation of the finished goods. Dane normally sits outside the pottery, but today it was on a cruise through Harecastle Tunnel. Those on the trip were on board from 10am, we passed them coming back a little after 2pm.
The last remaining bottle kiln
There’s a wonderful model of the factory how it originally was, made in ceramic (what else!) this shows the seven bottle kilns that used to be in the factory. Three for biscuit firing (the ceramics could be stacked close for firing) then four for glost kilns (the ceramics needed more space once glazed so as not to stick together in the firing). When the clean air act came in in 1956 new methods of firing were found, gas taking over from coal, tunnel kilns were developed to save having to stack everything up around a bottle kiln, blocking the door and then lighting fires to raise the temperature to over 1000 degrees. Six of the original bottle kilns were demolished, the one that remains does so as it was a part of another factory building and not stand alone.
Hi there
We saw the old offices. Phones rang as you walked past, if answered you’d get the story of an office worker. We watched a film about the factory processes making all the pottery, then looked at examples of Japonica tea sets, Churchill Toby Jugs, other fancy items.
Rooms now taken over by independent studios
Round past various independent studios we had the opportunity to look round a quarter of the moulds used which had been stored in roof spaces around the factory.
Commemorative plates, Toby Jugs, vases all sorts, an amazing collection of jelly moulds too. A mould could only be used so many times before a new one had to be made from the master.
Looking upwards between the brick walls of a bottle kiln
The Placing House and Bottle Kiln were next. In the placing house Saggers (rough clay containers used to protect the finer pottery whilst in the bottle kiln) were meticulously packed to make the most of the space, then they were carefully positioned in the bottle kiln, piled high one on top of the other right to the top. More delicate items such as plates would be packed nearer the centre of the kiln. Then once full the door would be bricked up and fires lit around the outside of the inner skin of the kiln, ramping up the temperature to a maximum of 1000 to 1250C, this was maintained for two to three hours before the kiln was allowed to cool down. As soon as it was possible to enter the kiln, the men would start to unpack it dressed in many layers to protect them from the heat. Pay was based on the quality of the goods coming out of the kiln, so if a firing went wrong the wages weren’t paid.
Sinks
The bath house has a wonderful line of sinks, just enough room to stand in front of them, no elbow room. A deep deep bath tub sat in another area. Was there just the one between all the workers, or several? During WW2 the bath house was one of eleven areas earmarked as air raid shelters, it could hold 38 of the 500 employees, thankfully the shelters were never needed.
The Lancashire Boiler produced steam to power the steam engine next door which kept many things moving in the factory.
Cuppas
Time for a break and some lunch. We could have had oatcakes, we could have had some Lobby (a beef stew) but we opted for jacket potatoes and a cuppa each obviously in suitable cups. Very nice and better than the potato wedges we’d had at Shugborough a few weeks ago.
Boots
Next we just had time to look round the Lodgekeeper’s House. A two up two down house with projections of people telling stories of their lives in Stoke. Very interesting, but the rooms lacked a little bit in atmosphere.
It was now 2pm time to push off, we’d the tunnel booked for 3pm. We’d enjoyed the pottery, however it still sits on the ‘Next Time’ list as I’d now like to do a factory tour and have a peruse around the independent studio spaces. The seconds factory shop was still WAY too expensive for anything to be purchased. I’m glad that around 30-40 years ago I visited the factory when it was closed and riffled through skips with a friend, we were students at the time. Items that were not too faulty in our eyes were pulled out and later I was allowed to visit my old school and give them all a clear glaze and fire them. Not the most expert job, but it did give me a set of Burleigh ware bowls and various other items which today would have cost me several hundred pounds.
Following
We pushed off. At Westport Lake a hire boat pushed out in front of us. They went slowly, we followed at tick over, would we make it to the tunnel by 3pm? Thankfully yes. They pulled in ahead of us and a Tunnel Keeper came to talk to them. This took quite a long time as their English wasn’t so good, getting them to shine their head light and sound the horn was testing the keepers patience a touch. As soon as he’d decided that they’d understood everything he came to talk to us.
Can you show me your light and sound the horn? Please?
‘Your lucky!’ Why? We’d booked. ‘Your not in the book’. But we booked. I checked the confirmation email. The Tunnel Keeper and Mick were both correct. We had booked and we weren’t in the book for today because Mick had booked our passage for the 11th! We were lucky as someone else had booked and we could tag along behind them, phew!
More head room than at Froghall
We whizzed through our safety briefing and were let into the tunnel a few minutes after the hire boat. Our normal speed would be reduced by their normal speed, go too slowly in a tunnel and you loose your steering and end up biffing the walls. Once we’d cleared the portal the doors closed behind us and the loud drone of the big fans kicked in to help ventilate the tunnel. It took a few hundred meters for us to be able to hear each other again.
Around 50 minutes later we emerged at the Kidsgrove portal. The tunnel Keeper here doing his best to keep a group of school kids off the CRT boat. The kids then turned their attention to us, the usual ‘Can I have a ride Mr, I’ve never been on one before’ ‘How much did it cost?’ ‘I could run and jump onto your boat from here’ We talked to them, suggested it would be a bad idea, hoping that we knew they’d not try, but you never know. They soon walked up the steps towards the station and forgot about us as we did about them.
At the junction
The hire boat had tried turning long before reaching the junction, but managed to get round after a bit of faffing leaving the way ahead clear for us. We dropped down Plant’s Lock 41, the first from the summit pound, and chose where to moor up, easy as we were the only boat in the pound.
Down Plant’s Lock
A visit to Lidl was required, then Mick headed to Tescos for bits Lidl don’t do and to pick up a prescription whilst I set about preparing cruising sustenance for a busy day tomorrow.
1 lock, 5.5 miles, 1 tunnel, 1 pottery finally visited, 0 shore leave AGAIN! 2 jackets, £15 for a 2nds cup, 11th September, 2 lucky boaters, 1 straight on, 1 batch short crust, 1 tin of oaty apple energy, 1 folded bit of card over the flashing green light!
