We’d woken on another list, this time the other way round, Oleanna most probably just settling in the silt. Our neighbour got going before us and as we pushed out a narrowboat headed straight for our spot as if we’d been keeping it warm for them.
Blue blue sky
What a gorgeous morning! Blue skies surrounded us.
Mowing
A chap sat on his lawn mower spraying out grass clippings as he went, obviously not part of the ‘No Mow May’ brigade. But then as we looked back we could only just about see his house! That’s one big lawn!
A queue!
Woodford Lock was not too far away and we soon started winding down the guillotine gate. A wide beam appeared behind us, it had to tread water until Oleanna was moved off the lock landing. The advantage of being followed on these locks is that so long as the guillotine gate is raised enough for you to safely exit with your boat you don’t have to wind it all the way back up to the very top to lock it off, saving several minutes of cardio vascular exertion at the big wheel.
Pretty
The river banks were mostly low today, cow parsley, rapeseed, and many plants standing tall in the sunshine waving in the breeze. Holy Trinity at Denford made for a good photo giving me a break from spinning the wheel.
More tight bridges to negotiate today. The old piers of a former railway bridge sit on a bend at an angle, a beep of the horn was felt necessary just in case. Then under Islip Road Bridge with it’s narrow arches. Just upstream of the bridge is a mooring, too soon for us to stop and a tricksy one to get into.
Through Thrapston, we made note of the Islip Dave mooring which has no land access, but would be a better choice for Tilly than the one by the bridge. It’s places like this that you’d like to be able to explore on foot, but being on a river just pulling in where you’d like isn’t really an option. If we wanted to explore Thrapston we’d need to either be by the bridge or on the EA mooring just out of town.
Titchmarsh Mill
By Titchmarsh Lock we caught last nights neighbour up. He was obviously a local as people stopped to chat with him at the lock, he moors at Middle Nene Cruising club which has a fantastic mill alongside it. Our pamphlet from the EA suggests you’d be able to moor considerately on the downstream lock landing, but we’d be too long for any consideration of this sadly.
Not much further on to Peartree Farm Mooring. I’d been wondering if the moorings would get busier today with it being the start to the weekend, but as we pulled up we were the only ones. This is where Harpers Brook joins the River Nene and the land at the junction has been fenced off to make an idyllic mooring. Space for several boats we chose to moor on the brook to make use of what solar the day had left to offer.
Backing in to moor
Tilly had an explore, trying out several trees for size, many just a touch too wide for good climbing and the lack of nearby friendly cover knocked it down from a Mrs Tilly stamped mooring. There’s a barbeque area with a picnic table. Fairy houses in trees and bird boxes. Lovely, but I think I preferred the views of yesterdays mooring.
Tonights mooring
As the afternoon went on the sun hid behind clouds and the temperature dropped necessitating lighting the stove. We were joined by the widebeam that had been following us and then a narrowboat from down stream, all sitting out around a fire pit as it got dark and started to rain. The last boat to pass was after 10pm, someone holding a torch out front to see the way.
4 locks, 3 wheels, 6.57 miles, 1 sunny warm morning, 1 improvised handle, 1 week to mow a lawn, 2 pretty churches, 1 neighbour caught up, 1 mill, 2 many trees to choose from, 1 pile of ash! 1 grey afternoon, 1 wet night ahead.
We woke on a list, one of those that’s a touch unsettling, thank goodness we have a cross bed so neither of us had fallen out of bed. It wasn’t that bad really, with me at the bow to help spread the weight, Mick reversed Oleanna off the silt with ease.
Water water everywhere
What a lovely day, the sun was out and blue sky cruising lay ahead for us. For much of our journey today we’ve been surrounded by lakes, the water ski lake stretches on for what feels like miles to a retail park. Both horizons seem to have developments going on. The north side new houses and currently the south has fencing around it suggesting more houses.
Ditchford Lock
Today we’d encounter two more types of lock. The first Ditchford Lock which instead of a guillotine gate has a radial gate. Apparently there used to be several more of these along the river, but this is the only one that remains.
The bottom gate is curved and drops in at the bottom of the lock, all operated by fingers on buttons again. We should be keeping an eye out for other locks that have previously had radial gates as they have large downstream recesses that used to house the mechanism.
Caution! Hanging Girder!!
Then the longest reach of river we’ve had so far towards Higham Ferrers Lock, 2 miles! A boat was just coming into the lock from below so I tried to help close the gate behind it. Another boat appeared below too, but the chap said he’d shared with them and they’d said as he was in a rush to head onwards without them, he was a boat mover. Blimey that gate was heavy and took two people to get it moving. It turns out there had been a notice regarding it.
Lovely day
Up the boat came, but only so far. We went to check the bottom gate, the paddles had been left up! No indicator that we could find to show this. The last boat through had possibly been a hire boat (it had passed us this morning), possibly with someone wearing C&RT clothing, all speculation. With the paddles closed the boat came up and we could descend, by now the next boat was waiting below.
Lillian in Higham Ferrers Lock in 2014
Yesterday Mick had had confirmation texts and messages that his phone had been registered for strong stream alerts on the Anglian Waterways. Levels can change suddenly down here as the EA manage water levels. If there is flooding the locks can be reversed, making them into sluices sending water downstream fast. The locks are filled, top gates chained open and then the guillotine gate is raised, being on pins downstream of a lock is not a good place to be! Follow the link below to register for warnings.
Heading towards the next lock we also signed up to the Friends Of The River Nene Facebook group here there are discussions and information about the river, more than you get from the FOTRN website.
Old Station Road Bridge
A bridge had also stuck in our memory, Old Station Road Bridge, sits downstream of the New Station Road Bridge a concrete possibly 1920’s 30’s high bridge. The old bridge comprises of double and triple chamfered arches. Through the centuries it has been widened, Mid C14th and has date stones from 1668, 1829, 1754 and 1922.
Doing our best to line up
Here you take a specific arch and a boat heading upstream had come a cropper coming through, getting stuck at an angle heading them straight off into the reeds. We cut our speed and then slowed as much as we could to tread water, good job the flow wasn’t stronger. They sorted themselves out and came past, we now had to try to line up with the skew arch and from a position we’d not have chosen to be in. Mick deftly turned Oleanna and avoided adding any more groves to the well worn bridge.
Gongoozlers
A pit stop at the EA moorings was had for lunch and to empty our yellow water tank. Then we were off again to Irthlingborough Lock where we had a couple of gongoozlers watching our every move. It’s funny without a car my geography of England is now centred around canals and rivers, proximity to cities and towns only a twenty minute drive away feels like it’s on the other side of the country. The gongoozlers mentioned Stoke Bruerne, a 30 minute drive yet on a boat it would take over 16 hours. For us that would be a 4 day cruise!
Hawthorne Blossom coming out
The river at times now gets quite narrow with trees here there and everywhere, you have to keep your eyes peeled for on coming boats. We passed two more FOTRN moorings, at least one is likely to be stopped at on the way back.
That looks tidier than I remembered it
Upper Ringstead Lock was the place we had our very first night onboard Lillyanne. We tied to the end bollard of the lock landing and hammered a spike in for the bow rope. Today the lock landing looked tidier than eight years ago, but what hadn’t changed was the guillotine mechanism! This one is the first manually operated gate heading downstream.
Wheel
This is one thing I’d not forgotten about the River Nene, the big wheel!
Once unlocked you spin the big wheel round and round and round and……. you’ve got the idea. The wheel may be big making it easier to move the guillotine, but the shear number of times you have to spin it is unrelenting! Thank goodness Upper Ringstead Lock is only shallow. I put one idea into action here, get Mick to drop the guillotine then I would raise it, splitting the arm ache between the two of us.
Lower Ringstead Lock
Soon we were at Lower Ringstead Lock, alongside Willy Watt Marina. This was the very first lock we ever did in Lillyanne and our first Nene lock. We didn’t remember it at all. Was it manual back then? Or fingers on buttons? I think we were so giddy at finally owning our own boat that nothing much was stored in the memory bank.
Looking back
Round a big bend and under the old railway bridge, we were soon passing Woodford Riverside Marina, a little arm off to the west. Well it’s actually two little arms with an island between them. This is where Lillyanne had spent most of her life before we bought her and where we collected her from 8 years and a month ago today. We’d had one trip that day by car to off load our belongings and pick up the keys, Merve the previous owner was a touch twitchy not having received the proceeds of the sale via the broker, he was also twitchy as her licence had expired. We then drove to Crick Marina to leave the car and our friend Lizzie gave us a lift back.
Woodford Riverside Marina
Merve seemed happier this time, hopefully the £1 the brokers send through to check it’s your account before sending the rest of the money (the following week in our experience!) had arrived. It was late in the afternoon, we untied and pushed off down the narrow channel between moored boats to the entrance onto the river. We had a crowd watching us. It was the first time Mick had been at her helm and the turn out under the bridge was very tight, yet he managed it without touching a thing.
St Mary the Virgin, Woodford
Not far 0.25km further on we pulled in at Woodford FOTRN mooring for the day. The bank was uneven for much of its length, a section having collapsed at some point, but we made the best of it and left plenty of room for someone else should they arrive, which they did later in the afternoon.
Not a bad mooring
The chairs came out and we both enjoyed the view as Tilly explored the area. Good friendly cover and the occasional small tree to climb. She however didn’t spot the Yoyo flies that kept her occupied and us amused when we were on the River Avon a few years ago.
Tilly on guard
I had a good catch up chat with David, he’s moved away from Newark now, he has good and bad days, but is doing okay.
White Mills Marina to Water Ski Lake FOTRN, Ditchford
Whilst we had breakfast there was a clunk from the electrics cupboard, we’d run out of our £2 electric. Mick had popped the boiler on which can run off electric when we’re hooked up, so the boat was warm and there was enough hot water for a shower first thing. We topped up with water and then headed to pay.
Membership
Sadly they didn’t have a copy of the Pearsons Guide to the Nene that we’d like, we’ll keep trying. But there was a helpful chap in the office who sorted out our Friends of the River Nene Membership. Just over a week ago Mick had filled out the form and sent payment, he’d also done this for the Great Ouse Boating Association. On his visit to the house he’d picked up a big envelope from GOBA but nothing from FOTRN. The chap in the office gave us a membership card, a sticker for the window and noted that we’d already paid, he’d pass the details on to the membership secretary who happens to live at the marina. We’d now be able to use the FOTRN moorings without any hassle.
Good to meet you
Mick got chatting to Steve from NB Albert, turns out that this is the Albert who appears on our blog roll! Both boats were preparing to leave, as they had already untied we let them go first. But the tight turns in the marina meant we were in Alberts way, so we ended up leaving first to encounter the even tighter turn out of the marina.
A Finesse boat
As we left we thought we recognised a widebeam near the entrance. We were right it was Northern Spirit the Finesse boat that won Best Widebeam at Crick Boat Show in 2019.
Back to fingers on buttons today working the locks. At Earls Barton Lock a horse came to check out our ropes but decided it just needed a damn good scratch, she had such an itch!
At Doddington Lock the landing was really quite short necessitating being dropped from the bow of Oleanna. Then I only lifted one paddle but to equalise the lock it needed the other side lifting too, so a walk all the way round (no walkway on top gates) was needed. When it came to pushing the buttons to empty it there was a delay, the guillotine lifted a very small amount, water started to drain slowly. After two minutes the green light came on enabling me to lift the gate right up, but would it budge? No!
I dropped the gate again and started from the beginning. Making sure I applied pressure to the raise gate button until the red light came on it worked, lifting the gate higher and draining the lock properly this time. Then I was able to lift the gate without any problem. Laura Doddington did get the blame!
We passed fields of sheep, Terns telling us which way to turn all very rural, just a shame the sun wasn’t out.
Whitworths Flour Mill
The locks either side of Wellingborough are both manual, no guillotine gates to deal with here. Then we were into Wellingborough. Eight years ago we paused here to fill the water tank on Lillyanne, we remembered it for the number of swans, the noise from Whitworths Mill and a playground. Today we stopped for lunch then Mick headed across to Tescos to pick up a prescription and top up supplies to keep us going into next week.
Swans swans everywhere
Other than our stop on Lillyanne I had been to Wellingborough in 1998 with my first ever show for Hull Truck. I had been given to John Godber to design Perfect Pitch for the SJT in Scarborough, he then asked me to redesign the show for a tour with Hull Truck which was to start in Wellingborough. Myself and Graham (Production Manager) had been put up in a B&B somewhere in the town. After our first night there Graham asked me to return later in the morning and collect our bags as we wouldn’t be staying there another night using an excuse that we’d been called back to Hull. The rooms were dirty and sleep wasn’t on the cards due to the noise. The next night we stayed at a different hotel, which we just about had to break into as our front door keys didn’t work. I had an ensuite room with a large pile of tiles sat in the corner, DIY bathroom decor! Such were the times of Hull Truck accommodation. The show went well despite a Deputy Stage Manager leaving a vital prop hidden behind a door back in Hull, she also managed to knock back everyones Irish Creams after a curry on the first night! She never worked for Hull Truck again.
Torrential rain caught Mick on his return to Oleanna, but thankfully it soon passed and we could continue to find a more peaceful mooring for the night.
Quite a grand looking house dominated the hill to the south of the river, then through the next bridge a new looking pontoon showed itself. This wasn’t on any of our maps or guides, but I had come across a second mooring listed for Ditchford on a website earlier, was this the one? No signs of duration of stay, standard EA signage though. Mick read out the name Chester House Estate. A closer look later on shows Chester House Estate to be worth a visit on our return. They host a seriously large collection of archaeological finds and boasts being one of few places in the country which can demonstrate over 10,000 years of human activity. Purchased in 2004 by Northamptonshire Council the site has been developed into a visitor destination. You can visit to look at the history, get married, enjoy a vintage market, or walk in the grounds. Definitely one for the way back, if we can get moored!
We continued onwards to see if we could get in at the next FOTRN mooring. We rounded a bend and there it was empty and waiting for us. A little shallow for us, but we got tied up. It was quite late so Tilly was given an extension to curfew. She and I had a good walk round, well I walked Tilly skipped with her tail held high. Well this is a great outside! We’ll be staying put here for sometime!
A quiet mooring today
When shore leave was over I did wonder if I’d have difficulty getting our crew back on board. A couple of calls from the stern then I could see Tilly springing out from the friendly cover to a patch of mown grass which she skipped along back to the boat. A very nice mooring with only one jet ski on the lake this evening.
Westbridge Pipe Bridge to White Mills Marina, River Nene
With Frank on standby to be our proxy a phone call was made to Scarborough Council. Mick got to chat to the nice lady who’d helped us eight years ago and through the years had made sure we’ve had the correct forms to be able to vote despite being homeless!
Last bit of canal for a while
Sadly this time she couldn’t help us. She could reissue our postal votes which would automatically cancel the previous ones, but unless one of us went to collect them from the office they would not return in time to be counted in the election. She did check that they hadn’t been returned, either to sender or falsely signed. No-one knows where they are, possibly they will be sat in amongst our post next time one of us goes to do a turn around, delayed in the post. Thankfully we strongly suspect the candidate we would have voted for will be elected, fingers crossed that is the case.
Time to get a move on. We dropped down the last of the Northampton Arm Locks at 10:30 and made our way under Cotton End Bridge the river banks to the west of the bridge overgrown, to the east moorings on large bollards. There would have been space for us here, but above on the arm was a better choice for Tilly, even though she wasn’t keen!
We headed in to Northampton Marina, pulling up on the pump out pontoon. When we bought NB Lillyanne we inherited an Abloy key which has been carried around for eight years. Only having one could be a mistake, one we’d rather not happen. The chap in the office was in the middle of a training course but was happy to sell us a key after we’d shown him our Gold Licence. He also sent us away with a comprehensive map and list of moorings along the river.
Back out on the river we timed it perfectly to arrive at Northampton Town Lock as a narrowboat was just exiting. We asked if we had to leave the gates open when we left, but they didn’t know. Yellow signs on the beams suggested we could leave either end of the lock open, but to lock the other set of gates. Should the river be in flood a red flag is flown and you should not proceed, this was certainly not the case today.
Manual gates at both ends of this, Rush Mills and Abington Lock. The paddle gear easy to wind up and down. Once up a white marker shows at the very top and as you wind them down a marker follows your progress until the paddle is closed.
EA chaps heading back to the marina
At Rush Mills an EA boat was just approaching so I helped them lock up. Below the lock landing has been having work done to it, on other lock landings areas are being left to rewild to help encourage insects and bees.
Abington Lock, now this one we remembered from eight years ago. Lillyanne’s EA licence had just run out so we were doing our best to get her off the river and onto C&RT waters before we were spotted. We did a full days cruise, but hadn’t managed to get as far as we’d hoped in day light. It being April Weston Favell pontoon had looked appealing but shouldn’t be used (May to September it’s a mooring, October to April only to be used when the river is in flood) in the end we moored on the lock landing at Abington, setting the alarm for first light, hoping no-one would see us, they didn’t.
The Washlands
Once through the barrage Northampton Washlands open out, here flood water can be held to limit flooding downstream a barrage at both ends. Hopefully we’ll be able to stop on the pontoon on our way back.
Waterway Routes map showing type of lock gates, lock landing locations and more
So far the locks had been a fairly standard set up with pointing gates (as they are called round here) at both ends, shown on the above Waterway Routes Map as two arrows. But at Weston Favell Lock we had reached our first Guillotine bottom gate, shown with pointing gates at the top of the lock and just a straight line at the bottom. Most of the locks on the River Nene are these type of locks.
These locks have to be left with the top gates closed, paddles closed and the guillotine gate raised fully. Like this they act as a weir, rising river levels come over the top of the gates and can flow out of the lock. On arriving at the lock, using your EA key (Abloy) you unlock the control panel. If heading upstream you bring your boat in and then lower the guillotine behind. Then you can lift the paddles at the top of the lock, some of these can be fierce so caution is required.
Lowering the gate to fill the lock
Once the lock is full open the gate, either exit or enter depending which way you are going. Close the paddles and gates and then empty the lock, no matter which way you are heading. To do this you press the raise gate button until the red light illuminates, this lifts the guillotine just enough to drop the level in the lock, maybe a few inches or a foot. Oleanna gets pulled forward a touch when this happens, but nothing alarming.
Then after a couple of minutes the red light goes out and the green one illuminates, you can then press and hold the raise gate button. This doesn’t sound too bad, in fact on your first lock or two it isn’t that bad, your thumb or finger aches a touch as it takes minutes then a few more minutes to fully raise. By the time you are onto your third lock of the day RSI is starting to set in.
He may be smiling, but I may not after the manual version of the locks!
With the guillotine gate now raised the boat can exit below getting dripped on and you can try to manipulate your thumb into working so as to close the control panel and lock it again. All fun and for those who have been this way before, I most definitely remember the manual versions which are still to come!
At Billings Lock we were following another narrowboat, the lady kindly dropped the guillotine in for us after they had left. They were liveaboards out for a trip from Northampton Marina, ‘Being live aboards you have to get out once in a while!’ the lady said. I asked how far they were heading today, thinking we’d have a locking partner. ‘Just here then we’re turning round to go back’. They must have headed into Billing Aquadrome, a very tight turn by the bridge. We may venture in there on the way back.
Have fun on the Llangollen
The spacing of locks is such that we decided that maybe we should have made a pack up for lunch today. Mick kept us at a gentle speed so that I could make us some lunch and a cuppa without missing too much.
Weir boom
Todays schedule had us mooring near Cogenhoe Lock. Some maps show there to be a mooring near the lock, our old Imray guide suggests mooring on the fields above, but we knew better as this was where we’d considered mooring eight years ago only to find nowhere obvious to pull up. The EA guide suggests ringing to see if there is any space, this must be down the weir arm and looked quite busy, so we’d not bother.
Patiently waiting for the lock to be ready
We then had a choice. Stop at White Mills Marina for the night, or push on to a Friends of the River Nene mooring at Hardwater Mill, possibly another hours cruising. Once we’d dropped down Whiston Lock Mick tried calling the marina, time was already ticking away and if we got a mooring with electricity we’d be able to empty the dirty washing drawer. There was no answer, just a message saying they were closed on Tuesdays. Mick left a message during which someone called him back. Eventually he got through, a lady was manning the phone, the marina office closed. We could moor there for the night £14 and she would see if she could sort electric for us. Brilliant! By now we were only five minutes away.
Sheeps
We turned into the narrow opening, followed directions we’d been given, turn right towards the Ukrainian flag, then head towards the office, pull in on the river side of NB Albert. This we found easily and reversed in, only to find it was a touch shallow.
The very nice lady came and told us where everything was and persevered sorting the electric out for us, £2 we’d see how long that would last us in this new world of higher prices!
White Mills Marina
A quick Cat Health and Safety check. Sadly there was an intermittent busy road close by and a possible ditch that would have stopped our second mate from venturing that far was very dry indeed! So not a natural barrier. I’d rather put up with complaints than not have a complaint ever again from Tilly. So much for moving the outside!
I may have to resort to wine if this carries on
As Tilly was stuck inside I took the opportunity to remove her collar and give her her new wormer. Last years tablet she’d been given seemed to disagree with her, resulting in tremors, so this time the vet gave me a spot on one. Just a dab of wetness on the back of the neck, that’s how they are sold to humans. They think that is fine! It most certainly is not!!! Nobody was touching me after that!
Washing machine was put to use, two loads, a dishwasher load and some electric heating before we headed to bed.
We may now be on exploration mode, but there are other things more important that will dictate what we do for the next week or so. Hopefully we’ll get to spend a bit more time on the River Nene on our return. Today however Tilly and I would be staying put whilst Mick had a day away at the seaside.
Last night he spent time purchasing five day returns, finding the cheapest route via split tickets to Scarborough, totalling £54. Mick gets to do such journeys as he has an old gits rail card. To get a couple of hours in Scarborough it meant him getting on a train at 06:59 from Northampton. He changed at Rugby, Tamworth, Derby, York and arrived in Scarborough at 12:08. His tickets were even more complicated!
A Thank you
The house needed checking over for a change of lodgers, the boiler we’d had problems with needed checking too, but most importantly Mick had gone to pick up our postal votes. Getting them sent on by our lodgers wouldn’t guarantee them arriving in the right place at the right time, but going to collect them from the house a few days before the council election should.
Final mosaic near the lock
When we first moved onboard fulltime Mick had a long conversation with a lady at Scarborough Council about how we could vote from our boat. The lady was very helpful. Every year we had to declare ourselves homeless and register an interest in Scarborough. We then appointed a proxy voter, our friends Dawn and Duncan obliged for us and visited our Polling Station, European Referendum, General Elections, Council Elections. This all worked, we were on the list of special people at the back of the list and our names got crossed off each time. On one occasion Mick headed back to Scarborough from Manchester to vote in person, my vote sadly lost that time.
Today when Mick arrived back at the house however there were NO postal votes waiting for him! It worked for the Police Commissioner last year, why not now! We’d received our Postal Poll Cards weeks ago. All that way and no means of voting. He tried calling the Council, but it being a Bank Holiday Monday the phone remained unanswered.
The bluebells are out
House chores were quickly done, things checked over and he was back on a train at 15:34 to change at the same stations on his return journey arriving back in Northampton at 20:21, empty handed.
The River Nene
Meanwhile Tilly and I had done a bit of cleaning. Meowed at the back door! I’d been out to do some shopping. Eight years ago we’d visited Morrisons, today I first headed to Aldi which is nearer, but very quickly realised the things I wanted they wouldn’t have, so I aborted and headed to Morrisons instead.
There had been a possibility that Mick wouldn’t get back until 9 or 10pm, depending on how the house had been left. So I’d taken the opportunity to purchase some King Prawns, Mick doesn’t like things that eat poo, so they are a solitary treat for me once in a blue moon.
Stirring risotto and prawns
On the offside of the final Northampton Arm lock a family was enjoying a barbeque. Thank goodness there was the lock in between us as their dog seemed to not want passers-by, it came and made that very obvious.
Please move the outside!
Tilly tried persuading me to move the outside to a better one. But all She said was that we couldn’t do that while Tom was in the outside, he wouldn’t like it! I suppose She was right I get all hurumphy when they move the outside a little bit whilst I’m in it and by the looks of things the outside would have had to move a long way to make it any better!
MOVE IT! Tom won’t mind
To while away the afternoon I used up a couple of wonky lemons that I had left over and had a go at a Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil recipe for Lemon Drizzle Traybake. It needed amending to be gluten free and the fact that the suitable tray I have seems to be in Scarborough! The recipe uses rapeseed oil instead of butter so was very easy to make, but the quantity of oil seemed to be a lot and our supplies are a bit short right now. I cut down on the oil, popped it in a cake tin and hoped for the best. After 35 minutes it was cooked, drizzled over with sugar and lemon juice. I just had to wait for Mick to return to sample it.
Lemon Drizzle, click photo for recipe
Tomorrow we’ll ring the Council to see if there is any way we can get a proxy vote at such a late date. We don’t hold out much hope, but it’s worth a try.
0 locks, 0 miles, 5 return tickets, 10 trains, 1 pump still running, 1 dying dishwasher, 1 mini bottle of bubbles, 0 postal votes, 0 boxes wine, 150grams king prawns all for ME, 1 unimpressed cat, 1 slightly cleaner boat.
In need of the services at Gayton Junction we prepared, emptying the wee tank whilst the outlet was on the towpath side. Then we pootled our way to the junction.
What a difference from yesterday! I got sunburnt yesterday, today we could just about see our breath! Layers and long sleeves were certainly needed.
Gayton Junction, which way?
At the junction there was already a boat on the services, but fortunately they had just finished. We pulled in alongside and let two other boats pass before we could swap places and tie up. There was a hive of activity around the service block, the local IWA branch were busy weeding and giving the place a general tidy up. We filled and emptied as required then were ready to push off.
IWA all hard at work
We’ve pulled up at the services here before, but only once been along the Northampton Branch. That was just over eight years ago when we’d just bought NB Lillyanne, she’d been moored on the River Nene and her licence had just run out, so we spent a couple of long days getting her off the river and onto C&RT waters. Quite a rush, not enough time to take much in or write a blog.
Last year was all about seeing family and friends, this year we want to explore again. Today we’d be heading down the Northampton Arm towards the River Nene, Middle Levels, Great Ouse, River Cam etc where we plan on spending the summer. We have our Gold Licence, have joined Friends of the River Nene and The Great Ouse Boating Association. There are different licences to buy, keys and windlasses (that are also called keys), all very exciting!
Fancy swing bridge
But first we needed to stop for an early lunch, there’s nowhere really to stop in the flight of locks down into Northampton so we pulled up opposite Gayton Marina. This is where all the hire boats were aiming for this morning and also where we came to view the first second hand boat we looked at inn 2014, it had too much leatherette for our tastes and really bad storage for a liveaboard boat.
From eight years ago I’ve had this thing that Gayton Marina had to be on the main line of the Grand Union near the junction, every time we’ve passed since I’ve wondered where it had gone! Now I know it wasn’t just a mirage.
NB Caress of Steel came past just as we pulled in, another Finesse boat with space for a motorbike in the tug deck. Then we watched the swing bridge at the entrance swing, all automated, a barrier and flashing light. There was no-one to be seen operating it, do moorers have a fob that they can press to open it? Or is someone watching on CCTV?
Top Lock
Time to set off, with sixteen locks ahead of us before we could stop we needed to get on with it.
We remembered narrow locks, going under the M1. I remembered trying to ride a Brompton up the gravelly track between locks, our lock operation has changed since then going up hill. Today I’d be walking much of the flight three times to set ahead and then let Mick and Oleanna out of the lock above.
What would be different to the locks? There’s always something different on each canal. The beams were wide, easy to cross. Here the handrails on the bottom gates were on the downhill side of them. Would I still be able to push the gates apart to save a walk around the lock? Have they always been like this or is it to put people off stepping across from one gate to the other?
Beep beep!
At the second lock I stood and worked out if I could push the gates from the centre safely holding onto the railing. This actually would be a touch easier to start off with, but to guarantee getting the gate into the recess I would need to change the angle to which I pushed. After a few locks I decided that the angle I was pushing at was not being kind to my knees, so I chose to walk round instead. Thankfully Mick closed the other gate for me with the boat hook, saving a second trip round.
The thick of the flight runs through twelve locks seemingly in countryside, the last one however sitting underneath the M1 near junction 15A. All quite pretty, I suspect the views would have been better if the sun had been out.
A family walked up the flight, crossing over the gates of each lock. They were obviously keen to lend a hand with a gate or two.
Red roof
In the pound below lock 6 I could see a red arc. This turned out to be the roof of a cruiser, the chap on board appeared when we had a couple of locks still to go to reach him. Obviously a single hander, I headed down to lend a hand with gates as he bow hauled his boat into the lock. He said that he’d stopped in the pound overnight and some nair do wells had opened all the paddles and drained the pound, he’d woken up with his boat on the silt.
The bywash was flowing and had got him afloat again, the level still quite low. It took time for Oleanna and the cruiser to pass. We’d left the next two locks ready for him, I suspect he made use of the open gates and then settled back down for another night, waiting for the next down hill boat to leave gates for him.
It won’t go down!
The level below Lock 6 was low. Oleanna ground to a halt exiting. I lifted one of the top paddles to see if I could flush her out. This worked quite quickly, but then the paddle wouldn’t close fully. I managed to force it down a touch, but had to call for Mick to see if he could get it further. Thankfully this worked.
The canal was built by the Grand Junction Canal, with a height difference of 32m between the Grand Junction at Gayton down to Northampton. 17 narrow locks were built to connect the River Nene to the canal network. The first boats arrived at Far Cotton in Northampton on the 1st May 1815, 207 years ago today! However today we wouldn’t be greeted by crowds cheering, it would just be geese crapping everywhere!
Farms were cut in half by the canal, so seven lift bridges were put across so that sheep, cattle and machinery could cross. Today only one such bridge is still fully in tact, just below lock 5, two more sit beside the canal.
Under the M1 are murals painted by local school children. One side depicts the canal through the seasons, the other is a time line of Northampton which is very interesting, bright and jolly. For 100 years the canal was very busy transporting coal, grain and timber, by WW2 road competition took over and trade declined.
A heron flew away from the lock
In 1968 a group of local enthusiasts formed the IWA Northampton Branch, in 1971 the IWA National Rally was held when 650 boats gathered. The branch fought to keep the arm open, objecting to road plans that would affect the route. Today they look after the upkeep of the flight. Mosaics sit near the top gates of each lock and as seen at the top of the arm today work parties keep the thick of the flight trimmed and tidy.
The pounds very full lower down
Once under the M1 the last few locks are set further apart. New housing sits alongside and the amount of reeds increases, this is also something we remembered from eight years ago. Gradually the canal becomes more urban.
Reeds reeds and more reeds
Local boats sat making use of the few rings above Lock 17, but there was space for us infront. We used the last ring and the girders holding the pipe bridge up to moor and moved the geese along taking care not to stand in their pooh.
Last night we had unwrapped the pork joint, dried it off and left it in the fridge to dry out. Before starting the flight I had left it out to come up to room temperature. Once down Lock 15 I turned the oven on, gave the joint a dry off and added some more salt to the leathery rind. Down Lock 16 in it went. By the time we were moored up it had done it’s 30 minutes at gas 7 and could be turned down. The effort paid off as we enjoyed the best pork crackling I’ve ever made along with a quarter of the meat. A good celebration to mark the anniversary of the arm and the start of our exploring this year.
Yummmmm!
16 locks, 6.5 miles, 1 left, 1 full water tank, 1 grey day, 1 left of 7, 34 mosaics, 1 slow boat to Gayton, 1 Tilly not too impressed, 2 hrs 42 minutes, 1 joint of pork that will last us four meals, 18 train tickets booked (making use of the Sale before it ends), 2 tired boaters.
Maybe if we’d not said hello to everyone on this mornings zoom we wouldn’t have ended up in the queue for the locks, but it’s always nice to see everyone and queues on canals always seem to work themselves out in the end.
Slotting in with the passing boats
We pushed off at around 10:30, waiting for a gap in passing boats. The stag do boats must have turned at the junction heading towards Watford or been lucky at the top of the Buckby flight as there was no sign of them.
Queue!
Straight on for us to Long Buckby. Ahead of us a couple of boats were pulled up on the lock landings and one on the water point waiting to go down, we were following another boat and had to tread water for a while. Behind us at the junction a boat was turning out from the Leicester Section, someone in the bow who was more there for the photo opportunities than as a spotter, were they aware of another boat about to come through the bridge ready to broadside them?
Going down again
I hopped off to lend a hand with the two boats who were now going down, space now vacated at the lock landings. A lady on one boat said she was only doing the one lock, the hire boat she was with would wait for a boat from the next lock full. Behind us there were now at least another two boats treading water awaiting their turn.
A new partner
We shared the top lock with NB Black Swan before they joined the hire boat ahead. With no traffic coming uphill the lock was reset for us, crew from the boat behind arrived and we were waved on on our own. As the lock finished emptying a procession of three boats appeared above, someone must have pulled out from one of the moorings. We’d wait for someone at the next lock.
Oleanna and Jubilee
Here we started to meet uphill boats who informed us of plenty more behind them. The gates were left open expectant of more uphill boats whilst we waited for a new locking partner. Up they came and after a while of waiting (long enough for a comfort break and change of top) we were joined by NB Jubilee. Sorry we didn’t get your names.
Look at that sky!
The last locks of the flight we now shared, swapping with other boats coming uphill, there was time to chat and enjoy the sunshine. What a lovely day to be boating especially as we were now out of the holding queue.
Buckby Bottom Lock
At the bottom we could have pulled in for lunch, but not knowing how many moored boats there would be ahead to slow our progress we wanted to keep moving so as to reach Rubgy Boats before they closed for the day. So lunch was had on the move.
Bye bye Buckby
Plenty of traffic, by rail, road and canal. It’s a noisy stretch with the odd patch away from the faster travellers. We paused for me to head to Tescos in Weedon for a newspaper, thankfully all the really good bits were included with the paper today unlike last week!
A treat
Pulling in at Rugby Boats we filled the diesel tank, £1.40 a litre, bought 2 bags of coal (well it might snow before next weekend!) and some chilled medication which was enjoyed as we pulled away.
Hello again!!!!
More and more boats have loud music emanating from them. As we approached Bugbrooke music became very very loud indeed. Was this coming from a boat, had the bridge been installed with speakers. No there was a lady singing to backing tracks outside the pub, she was good, but we’d rather hear nature being noisy in the countryside so we pushed on, wanting to get a couple more miles ticked off before mooring anyway.
Our planned five hour day had extended and cat curfew was getting close. We ended up pulling in just after Bridge 42, the same place we’d stopped last year after being boarded by ants at Bugbrooke. Ahh peace and quiet! Well not really.
Confused sheep
The West Coast Main line thundered past every now and again, people heading off for the weekend. The sheep across the way were very vocal and then at one point all charged across the bridge behind us, their hooves clattering as they went. They were up there for ages as the farmer dealt with them one by one releasing them back into the field. Quite a few boats passed us, hire boats heading back to base for the morning at Gayton, others heading out and one quite late all the way from Wyvern, they were obviously on a mission!
We think this should be our boat!
7 locks, 10.49 miles, 4th in the queue, 2 Jubilees, 1 straight, 2 locking partners, 2 bags coal, 87 litres, 1 cornetto, 1 magnum, 2 Truckers going, 1 sheep stampede, 6mph, how did they do that!
Bridge 103 to Water Lane Bridge 9, Grand Union Canal
Not a Lapwing but it was singing it’s little heart out
1980’s synthesised kazooing woke us this morning. Lapwings. Their call will always remind us of Lock down 1 opposite the potato field at one of our early moorings. Such a distinctive call. The three or four of them were in good voice, I wanted to record them but first their was an aeroplane, then passing boats, followed by a tractor, then they had gone. They seem to like freshly sewn fields.
A swan on a very private nest, willow fencing around the area
Pushing off was one of those waiting games today as boats kept coming past. How polite should one be in not pushing out in front of someone? Or should you just grab a gap when one appears? In the end it wasn’t that bad and the boat in front of us soon pulled over for morning coffee, a training boat.
With the trees now in leaf the spire of Braunston church took it’s time to show itself. Bangers! But would we get moored? We hoped our arrival time was suitable to be able to fit in a gap just vacated.
Braunston Turn turned
At the turn we turned southwards, the other folk occupied by a boat that seemed to be wanting to wind. Then we played the chicken game, would there be a mooring further along by Butchers Bridge or not?
Quack quack!
Maybe we’d fit in at the back just by the bridge into the marina, over looked by rip stock mallards. No there was a ledge stopping us from coming in fully and so close to the entrance we’d rather be out of the way.
The moorings had a couple of gaps, one long enough for a 50ft boat perhaps, the other much shorter, but the two together might just fit us. Mick slotted the stern in and then went to see if he could attract the attention of those inside. They moved back and we slotted in everyone on piling hooks rather than rings.
Very pretty
The Aubretia at the top of Nibbits Lane was wonderful. Over the years it has cascaded and tumbled down the dry stone wall to make a fantastic display.
The butchers for a Sunday roast shop. Pork would be on the menu, next cheapest after chicken. A joint for four of shoulder. We got a very generous joint more likely for six or eight, good job we like pork. Some veg, a pork pie and some bacon.
Sunday Roast
Then the question. ‘Are you still doing gluten free sausages?’ The signs on the cabinet didn’t look promising. The answer came back, ‘No we don’t do them’. Well I was very lucky once in the past. No Braunston Bangers for breakfast anymore! The church spire won’t have quite the same effect from now on.
Wait for us!
After lunch we pushed off hoping that a boat that had just passed would wait for us at the locks. The hire boats were busy, two were being filled up with groceries from a Sainsburys van, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many crates! Was this a stag do? Maybe but for an octogenarian!
We had a partner for the locks. Yay! Well we ended up having two. Up ahead was a single hire boat that had only just been sent of from below the locks, they were mob handed with plenty of sailor hats on display.
NB Whistler shared the first three locks with us then it was obvious that we were now being followed by another single hire boat, time for us to split up especially as we’d caught the boat ahead. There were downhill boats at most locks now so gates could be left.
Swapping over
We teamed up with a canal time boat for the last three locks. Once the lock was filling I’d walk up to the next to empty it or help open gates. I signalled back to the lock below that there would be two boats coming down, Mick acknowledged my signal. However he didn’t pass it on to the two ladies crewing for the hire boat, who closed everything up. Soon rectified.
Braunston Top Lock
Once up the last lock it was time for the tunnel. Now is it 300 to 400m from the other end where the kink is? Or 400 to 500m? Thankfully no-one was coming towards us so we didn’t have to adjust our speed to avoid any possible collision. We can confirm the kink is between 400 and 500m from the Norton Junction end.
What plumage! I think there might be a baby sheltering under her wings
The moorings with a view looked pretty full so we pulled in before them and soon found ourselves surrounded by the stag do boats, a boat in front and one behind us. They were a touch noisy to start with but soon settled down to munch their way through their supplies.
Turned out nice again
6 locks, 7.28 miles, 1 right, 4 Lapwings, 2 git gaps made a mooring, 1 huge hunk of pork, 1 pie, 4 rashers, 0 bangers! 12 maroon crates, 2 locking partners, 1 tunnel, 2 mysterons, 1 mooring without a view, 2 boat stag do, 12 stags having Nanna naps.
Bascote Aqueduct to Flecknoe Fields Farm Bridge 103, North Oxford Canal
Would we find a locking partner today? By the time we were ready to push off we’d already been passed by a boat heading to the locks, they were at least half an hour ahead of us. Then looking back behind us there was no sign of anyone behind either. Oh well, we’d be on our own again.
The Former Railway Bridge behind us has been improved as part of the National Cycle Network route 41 (Bristol to Rugby), soon the towpath will be closed for improvement works. Maybe some more rings will be put in too, you never know!
Mick holding back
First two locks are by themselves before the thick of the flight. It would be a while before any downhill boats appeared on the horizon, so each lock would need emptying. The walk between the first locks easier on the feet than in Autumn as today it wasn’t covered in crab apples.
Soon in our routine, we started working our way up the remaining eight locks. I could just make out the boat ahead four locks up, I doubted we’d catch them up to share. Once we were up to the third lock keen crew appeared behind us, how many boats? Two, no point in waiting then. If they caught up with us they could help close up saving Mick some time.
Being followed
Then up ahead the first of the down hill boats appeared. A pair, Mick could now leave the gates, he moved out of the lock to vacate it. The crew behind were so eager to climb the flight that their advance party wound up a paddle at the bottom end of the open lock. Mick shouted back to her, she didn’t hear. It took a while before her mistake was acknowledged and much shouting from Mick as the level of the pound gradually dropped.
Looking up the flight
In the lock was NB Ducketts Passage, a yellow boat. Having had a yellow boat (Lillian) we tend to make note of others and this one used to moor at the top of the Buckby flight, they gave up their mooring there in January. Nice to chat them and their locking partners.
Happy
Then a single hander who seemed to have a volunteer with him. There was another single boat coming down behind so he’d wait once we’d passed us, but the keen crew behind whizzed him through whilst the boat ahead of us sat in the top lock waiting. The volunteer carried on walking down the flight.
Surveying equipment
Also coming down hill were a couple of C&RT chaps. One on a bike who stopped, tried to wiggle the lock ladders, surveying the lock and making notes. The other had a measuring wheel and marked stick, he was checking the width of the upper track by the locks. Their conversation suggested that he was checking to see if the upper track was wide enough for vans. It was as there were obvious tyre tracks from a couple of days ago. Maybe they were checking things out for next winters stoppage list.
Nearly at the top
With one lock to go we realised a training boat from Willow Wren was coming down. They would wind and we’d swap with the other boat to accompany the training boat back up. This of course all took time, the novice crews first ever lock, the crew following us stood looking on puzzled.
We listened to see if there were any new tips we could pick up on. One was if sharing an uphill lock to always open the paddle on the side of the boat furthest forward first, this then holds both boats to the same side. The instruction was very clear, but very much tailored to the Ham and Baker paddle geared locks of Hatton to Calcutt. Hopefully at some point in their instruction they would be taught that not all locks are made the same, about gate paddles and how locks can leak requiring all paddles to be opened to equalise the levels so you can get out.
Chisiwick or Chiswick?
A pause for lunch in front of this Harland and Wolff Woolwich which couldn’t make up it’s mind on it’s name.
A good nosy at the Willow Wren set up as we passed, another had at Wigrams Turn of the campsite there. Both still possible party venues.
Kath I’ll save the homemade biscuits for when we eventually coincide
The familiar paintwork of NB Herbie on her new mooring at Ventnor gave her away as we passed.
A partner!
Pulling in below the bottom lock at Calcutt we were joined by a boat coming out from the marina, perfect timing for us and them. With two boats coming down the middle lock we swapped over, four boats managing to find space to avoid any collision course.
Our partners stopped for diesel, tucking in next to the hire boat fleet and NB Driftwood whom we’d shared locks with around London last summer. No sign of Rod or Nor today sadly.
Which way?
The last of the locks on our own again. The design of the locks means that as you empty them they give a particular noise as air takes over from water in the recess to the paddle gear. It reminds me of Hannibal Lecter.
At Napton Junction I stood in the bow to give warning of a passing boat, then we turned left towards Braunston. We pootled on passing numerous returning hire boats. When bridge 103 was passed we’d start looking for a mooring, we very quickly decided to stop at the first available space in case there wasn’t another. Two hours Tilly time was cut short by Mick as we didn’t want a recurrence of yesterday.
Braunston Please!
This evening I caught up on news with some of my Scarborough Chums on zoom whilst Mick chatted to our neighbours. They used to moor at the top of the Stockton flight at Kate boats, but when all the hire fleet were moved there they were offered a mooring down in Warwick, they have since moved to nearer Calcutt. Their suggestion is that the hire boats will now stay at Stockton leaving the Warwick base for leisure mooring.
13 locks, 3 shared out of 46, 6.44 miles, 1 left, 1 new access point, 6 turns, 1 blogging boat, 4 in a pound, 1 ex-locking partner.
Our morning routine obviously doesn’t match anyone else’s. Some boats were away before us and others were still pottering before setting off, which meant we’d be without a locking partner for the day, Oh well!
As we headed towards Radford Bottom Lock we passed a boat towing another, the lady didn’t slow down any and her boat made quite a list as we passed. Maybe this was just the water being sucked from beneath or there was an object below the water line that made her boat rear up.
Swapping with the heritage boat
A chap sat by the bottom gate of the lock, windlass on the paddle gear, the lock full, top gate open, waiting, but no boat in sight. We disposed of rubbish at the bins by which time his boat arrived, an Anglo Welsh Heritage Class. We’ve not seen one of these before, hardly surprising as there are currently only two of them on the system.
A grey day with layers required, working locks would get us warm but the cruise between them would keep us chilly.
Brake on
We worked our way up the first three locks and then trod water whilst a boat ahead was just finishing at the Fosse Road water point, we then pulled in to fill our tank setting the washing machine going hoping to catch the first rinse. But the pressure there was so good the tank was filled in no time. Another boat arrived squeezing in in front of us, their relief on being able to empty their toilet cassettes obvious.
The locks are spaced out along here, some looking like a new coat of paint wouldn’t go amiss, others looking like a new beam might also be required soon!
The temporary bridge
We paused for lunch a little after Fosse Top Lock, the noise from the HS2 works just audible. Once up Wood Lock we could see where the red earth has been moved and carved through to make way for the new track and just after Longhole Bridge a new bridge spans the canal.
On the southern bank large slabs of concrete have been laid as foundations for a new bridge. Certainly plenty going on. Welsh Road Bridge has traffic lights, a set just for the lock cottage. The only traffic today was lorries going back and forth with soil and rubble.
Lock ahead!
Now Bascote came into view, two single locks followed by a staircase of two. With no one coming down we had them to ourselves. I’d start a lock filling and then walk ahead to get the next one ready as Mick closed up behind.
Mick bringing Oleanna out of the lock
The staircase requires setting with the top chamber full and the bottom one empty no matter which way you are travelling. Somehow they were almost set for us, the top full and the bottom almost empty, this meant either two boats had shuffled round each other (one going up, the other down) or the gates leaked! We think it was the latter.
Rising in the bottom chamber
Once in the bottom chamber I lifted a middle paddle. Normally 20ish turns does the job, but here it took more like 40. The other difference with this lock is that so far Oleanna had been held to the side with the incoming water in all the locks (raising the paddle on the same side as your boat), but here she drifted across the chamber and then back again.
Leaky gates might be keeping the top chamber full
We were soon onto the longer pound and heading for our preferred mooring on the aqueduct away from the road and pubs. Tilly was given a couple of hours shore leave, which now that she has her freshly stamped passport she totally ignored, returning an hour and a half after cat curfew and me turning into the mad cat lady!
I wonder what’s down here, I may be some time!
10 locks, 4.76 miles, 0 locking buddies, 1 temporary bridge, 1 huge lot of earth works, 1 full water tank, 1 preferred mooring, 1 cat out after curfew!
