Category Archives: History

Bridging The Ouse. 14th August

Naburn Lock to Linton Lock

Once breakfast was over it was time to make a move upstream. We have done the route into York on Lillian twice, however I know the river better from the banks on this side of the city. This is where I grew up, over looking the river which I was taught to respect from a very early age. Things change, but along this stretch only the trees seem to grow bigger and higher than in my childhood. The advantage of living beside a flood plain is no new chimneyless houses have popped up.

From Naburn the riverside moorings are full of white shiny cruisers all their pointy noses facing upsteam. Acaster Malbis has houses to match with big gardens stretching down to the river.

There were tents and gazebos at York Marina and they seemed to be doing a roaring trade, most probably in teas and coffees overlooking the river.

The wire sculpture of a fisherman and his dog on Naburn Railway Bridge

We tried checking the price for diesel on their pump, but as it serves both petrol and diesel I couldn’t tell which cost £1.65 a litre! We’ll hang on till Boroughbridge.

The west bank of the river now becomes more interesting, lots of different sorts of boats, all the moorings individual clinging onto the high bank. In some places it’s like a shanty town, it must take years, decades to collect the stuff some have piled high. Others have new swiss style sheds that have sprung up during lockdown, their fresh yellow wood waiting for the winter to be toned down by nature.

Archbishops Palace. We used to walk down the east bank with the dogs and stand and look at the Palace. At 7 or 8 I never thought about who lived there, but today neither of us knew who the new Archbishop of York was, I had to look it up! We knew John Sentamu had retired after 15 years, now Stephen Cottrell is the 98th Archbishop, I believe he took on the position early in the summer. Four years ago scarecrows stood in the riverside garden, today it just looked neat.

Not the nicest bridge to cross the river

The A64 then crosses the river, I remember the days before this was built and then the gradual increase in traffic across it which could be heard from our house, it also supposedly blocked out the tiny view of the palace from my parents bedroom. A brave runner ran against the traffic high above us, then she popped up again on the east bank keeping pace with us as we headed upstream.

Fulford Hall, now apartments sits on the bend where the trip boats used to wind. Then I could just make out Landing Lane (Lovers Lane when I was a kid) between the trees. My Dad in his latter years felt he’d achieved a good walk if he reached the benches here for a rest, I think Bramble his dog was glad of the rest too, accompanied by a restorative square of liver cake Dad made especially for her. He was also very popular with all the other local woofers.

Wonder if they were looking for the penny Harald dropped in 1066

Today two chaps were magnet fishing off the little beach here. This is where the Battle of Fulford took place in 1066. King Harald III of Norway and Tostig Godwinson, his English ally, fought and defeated the Northern Earls Edwin and Morcar in September that year. It is estimated that 1650 died in the battle, so there may be interesting things to find on the river bed. Recently Fulford Parish Council had a crowdfunding attempt to buy some of the land for the community. But sadly even though they reached their target their funds were out bid at auction. I hope the new owner realises what they have.

Just a short distance on it was time to very gently coast upstream. We kept our eyes peeled for a house set back, peeking above the friendly cover on the banks. To either side of my family home are big houses, my Dad’s house much smaller, but somehow, my Dad’s is the only one you can get a clear view of from the river. The window visible is my parents bedroom, the room where I was born.

In the last year or so the current owner has added a bedroom to the back and altered the conservatory, as part of the building works new larch cladding has replaced the old original wood which had darkened with age. The house my Dad designed and built is still there.

Onwards to the Millenium Bridge a possible mooring that needed checking out. We’ll need to be a touch creative with our mooring as other than a chain there is nothing to tie to. We checked the depth and that was good too, the fact that we’d be moored close to a chilled medication boat has nothing what-so-ever to do with it!

Now we were joined on the river by trip boats and day hires doing circles. We managed to avoid them.

The Blue Bridge over the end of the River Foss has recently been away for restoration and it looks like a temporary bridge had been installed. The Foss Barrier behind is sadly closed due to work being carried out on it, we’d been toying with a little trip up as far as you can get, but that will have to wait for another time.

We spotted a weather vein on top of my best friend Emma’s house, sure this wasn’t there when the Snowdons were residence.

If anyone fancies buying us a big present one day

A rather lovely looking Dutch Barge sits on the Clementhorpe bank. If we were ever to win the Lottery we would love to own one of these for the large waterways. Their lines are just so lovely, of course we would keep Oleanna meaning we could still climb over the Pennines.

Skeldergate Bridge, which recently we found out that the northern most arch used to have a lifting section to it to allow taller boats access to the busy quaysides upstream, this last opened in 1975. Originally a toll bridge which replaced a busy ferry it opened in 1881 and was designed by Thomas Page, it was the third modern bridge in the city. The bridge became toll free in 1914, the citizens of York were so happy they held a regatta to celebrate.

Kings Staith was busy as always, well apart from when it’s flooded! All the trip boats and hire boats were out and plenty of people were sat out enjoying the sunshine. Here is another possible mooring, but with ladders to climb to get on and off Oleanna we are unlikely to use it.

Under Ouse Bridge the oldest of the bridges in York. This is where the first bridge across the Ouse stood in the ninth century. Several versions have followed including one that in 1367 had the first public toilets in the country installed. The current Ouse Bridge was built in 1821.

The back of Coney Street, the main shopping street from my youth follows along. The old printworks for the York Press and the Mansion House all back onto the river before Lendal Bridge, another crossing designed by Thomas Page.

This was the second bridge to cross the river, its original foundation stone was laid in 1860, during it’s construction disaster struck and it collapsed killing five men. The bridge was rebuilt to Thomas Page’s design and opened in 1863. The new bridge put the Lendal ferryman out of business, he was paid compensation of £15 and a horse and cart.

The moorings along the bottom of Museum Gardens is the most popular place to tie up in York, nothing to do with the other chilled medication boat being moored here. Today we’d have managed to squeeze in, but here was not our chosen mooring for the day, we still had quite a few miles to go.

A trip boat had pulled out ahead of us and now took it’s time to give it’s commentary on the Scarborough Railway Bridge, with it’s new footbridge that leads into the station platforms. Past the bridge the trip boat sped up and we followed until it reached Clifton Bridge where it winded, giving it’s horn signal mid manoeuvre!

The river is now surrounded by willow trees, many having shed large branches into the water, luckily most still attached to the bank so not a hazard to us today. Under Skelton Railway Bridge which takes the East Coast Main Line up towards Newcastle and Edinburgh, no trains obliged for a photo.

Kingfishers were about again today, darting across the rivers surface keeping us amused whilst nothing much else could be seen. Then a few trees other than willows showed on the banks of the river, a house and then a tight turn to the right where the River Nidd joins the Ouse and sandy banks encourage dogs and children to swim. Here is the boundary to Beningborough Park in which sits Beningborough Hall a National Trust property we visited in 2014 .

We were surprised to see the pontoon for The Dawnay Arms empty on a Friday afternoon, but then again they are closed during the afternoon. Here’s hoping it is empty on our return as we’ll be stopping to treat ourselves to a meal here.

Below Linton Lock the river widens out and is very shallow. Buoys mark the shallow water and fishermen were taking advantage to wade their way out to tempt the fish to their lines. I hopped off at the pontoon and walked up to set the lock.

The mechanism for the bottom gate paddles is an unusual one. Horizontal wheels on the gates need to be turned to raise the paddle below the water. This takes quite some time to do, then the lock takes quite a while to empty. Once I was certain it had levelled out it was time to open the gate. This is windlass operated so if your arms weren’t tired enough from turning the wheels they would be by the time you’d got the gate shifted. I’ve made a mental note to try the other gate when we come back as it may not rest on the ground quite as much, hopefully it will be easier.

Then there is everything to close up before you start filling the lock, those wheels to spin closed and the gate to wind shut. I looked longingly at the large cool glasses of beer sat in front of people by the lock, they looked so good!

The position of the ground paddles is quite a distance away from the lock, this makes it impossible to see what is happening as you raise the paddle. With no sight of Mick or Oleanna I wound the paddle several times then checked over the gate, a bit more, check again, a bit more and so on. I think it increased my steps for the day. Slowly Oleanna rose, still quite a distance down in the lock when the levels equalised.

We’d been hoping for a space on the visitor pontoon here. Two cruisers seemed to be taking up most of the space, but was there more room further on. Mick headed off whilst I closed up the lock. Just after the cruisers was a space big enough for us, even if the pontoon ran out and we’d be overhanging the slipway, it would do for us tonight.

1 lock, 15.71 miles, 1 palace, 9 bridges, 1 birth place, 1 Daddy Fatso house still there, 1 day reminiscing, 2 moorings checked out, 2 chilled medication boats, 1 sunny day, 1 home city, 1 table booked, 2 wheels, 0 view, 1 boat squeezed in, 1 very late lunch, 0 shore leave, 5 Kingfishers, 300+ photos today.

https://goo.gl/maps/YBkxTk4RCWNMNUiz9

Out The Other Side. 4th August

Hirst Lock to Owl Swing Bridge 216

Paul the weatherman hadn’t mentioned rain this morning! We decided to sit and wait it out for a while hoping it would dry up. Three boats came past us before we were ready to push off, the last two were paired up. One of the ladies said that there was a boat following them, so we should have a partner for the locks today.

We waited for them to descend and then filled the lock back up for us. With the gates open I could now swing the bridge just above the lock, the other boat had just arrived dropping off crew as they came.

The swing bridge was easy to move, it was just when I pushed it shut that I had a problem, the locking latch didn’t want to lift back in to lock it. I tried pushing the gate again, but was needing to lift the latch at the same time, impossible for one person to do. Luckily I’d delayed a couple of walkers who I enlisted to push the bridge whilst I held the latch up, job done, thank you.

The smell from the bakery was wonderful this morning, the wind in just the right direction. We dropped down the lock and headed on our way, our locking companions said they’d be stopping in Shipley so we’d be on our own again.

On past the textile mills of Saltaire, now galleries, offices and residencies. The history of the Italianate alpaca mill can be found Here. Sadly mooring in the shadow of the mills is restricted to 6 hours during the day, no overnighting here, not that that was our aim for the day, we still had quite a distance to travel.

A few small cottages back onto the canal, their stonework still blackened from the smog created by industry long gone. These take me back to visiting my Grandparents house in Thornton, Bradford, an old school house with an outside loo.

Poolting on through Shipley we passed an old arm, crying out for redevelopment of the mill, it would create extra moorings too in a town where visitors only have a few places to pull in. Our locking companions managed to pull in opposite some permanent moorings were a Valley Cruises day boat was tied up, the company having stopped trading in Coventry last year.

Dock Lane Swing Bridge is now operated with the help of the key of power. Back in 2014 you had to drop barriers and then stand on the bridge to turn it with a windlass, very heavy work which I passed on to Mick. But today with only a couple of buttons to press the job is an easy one.

On through Oddies Swing Bridge to Buck Hill Swing Bridge which had just been opened. A boat on the other side was having difficulty manoeuvring to get through the bridge hole, but the lady managed it and the chap kindly held the bridge open for us. After we’d passed the penny dropped, NB Perseverance is the Minimal List vloggers boat. I follow them on Instagram so knew they’d been on the Chesterfield Canal earlier this year.

At Field 3 Locks we caught up with the two boats ahead of us. They were just descending the first chamber of the staircase. There was time for chats as the boats worked their way down from one chamber to the next. We waited for the boats to be in the bottom chamber before we lifted the paddles at the top of the staircase. A check of the level in the middle chamber to make sure it was in the green before we started to fill it from the top chamber.

The middle chamber has two overflow spills, the bottom has one. One of them is close to the top, skimming off excess water when the level reaches it, but the other two have openings a few feet from the top. This puzzled me for a while until I had a closer look at where they join the bywash.

These may start off low in the lock chambers but the spillway (for want of a better word) angle upwards towards the by wash. So as the chamber fills the water gradually rises up the spillway and once it reaches the top the excess water flows over into the by wash until both chambers are level and the gates can be opened.

With a good half hour before we’d reach the next staircase we decided to have lunch on the go, first though was Strangford Swing Bridge. This gives access to a large Yorkshire Water processing plant that stretches for quite a distance. I then ducked below to make a cuppa each and lunch. I’d just resurfaced (the quick boiling electric kettle helped) as we approached the next swing bridge which was open, hooray, my crispbreads wouldn’t go soggy. Except the bridge closed, oh well!

Dobson 2 Locks was busy. One of the boats from in front of us was waiting on the lock landing and explained that when they arrived there had been a boat waiting for a partner to go down, they’d been waiting an hour. So with the knowledge that we were following the pair infront of us split up.

C&RT chap blocking off a broken ground paddle

Two boats were rising, a C&RT chap was helping. One of the boats had been having difficulty, their well deck had been filling with water from the leaking gates. This had risen to such a height that it was starting to flow into the cabin!! The C&RT chap stopped them thankfully. He instructed them to remove the bags of coal and stuff that were blocking the drain holes in their well deck and to CLOSE the front doors.

As they rose the two chaps at the back chatted away to each other. Both myself and the C&RT chap spotted that one of the boats was right against the bottom gates and was about to catch his tiller under the paddle gear. Both of us shouted for him to move forward and quickly. The same thing happened in the next chamber to the same chap! Not a care in the world, one chap stood on his cabin roof to take photos as they left the lock, the other chap too busy chatting to notice he was steering straight towards Oleanna’s bow. Thank goodness the C&RT chap had been there otherwise there might have been a sunken boat or two!

Down we went with the assistance of the friendly chap in blue, he’d only come to the workshop above the lock to cut a couple of pieces of wood! Our two boats descended the staircase without incident and passed through Millman Swing Bridge holding up around 18 cars and vans, a record for this trip.

Mick had rung ahead to see if Apperley Bridge Marina might be open for diesel, but unless the caretaker happened to be about they were closed today. No rush to top up, we can last a while longer, so we carried on towards Rodley where we planned to moor for the night.

Moored up and tyre fenders deployed to keep us afloat, Tilly headed off through the fence with large signs asking people not to throw their dog pooh bags over it, we wondered if they’d mind cat pooh!

During the day we’d had a phone call from the Lock Keeper at Selby, dates for a passage up to Naburn were discussed and we are booked in. Here’s hoping the weather stays fine and the river behaves.

This afternoon we had passed out the other side of the Bradford covid zone where extra lockdown measures are in place. Mick popped across to the new posh housing estate on the other side of the River Aire to the convenience store for a bottle of wine. After an early meal we walked down into Rodley to meet up with our friends Graham and Tracey.

Tracey works in marketing and has been working through lockdown, Graham designs and builds theatre sets, is a lighting designer and production manager whom I used to work with a lot. At times Graham and I spent more time together than we did with our other halves. If the pandemic hadn’t come along we’d have been working together on a couple of projects this year.

Graham has kept himself busy during Lockdown and has built them a wonderful garden room on two levels with plants already climbing the posts and rope light back lighting a step. A lovely place to spend a couple of hours in very good company, drinking maybe a little bit too much wine, all socially spaced.

6 locks, including 2 staircases, 7.46 miles, 8 swing bridges, 18 held up, 2 swung for us, 1 hour shore leave , 1 cat not impressed, 1 bottle, 1 damp grey day, 1 lovely evening, 2 good friends, 1 garden room to covet.

https://goo.gl/maps/xkJcMxCmEhxxvCJc6

Crossing The Border. 21st July

Foulridge Wharf to GreenHill Donkey Rose Bush Mooring

My sour dough starter might have been left a touch too long between feeds in the fridge. I got it out a few days ago and have been doing my best to encourage it to bubble up. I’ve reduced the size of it to help with flour consumption, keeping the ratios the same as before hoping for little discard. But it’s sleepy so I’ve had a discard jar on the go. I won’t be baking bread or pizza until it bucks it’s ideas up but the discard does make good pancakes! Add a few blueberries and well, yum.

Our Sainsburys delivery was half an hour early, which we didn’t mind and the only thing missing from it was the price of one box of wine, we got the red wine we just weren’t charged for it, Bonus!

As I worked my way through sorting the shopping Mick topped up the water tank as our long hose reached the tap from our mooring. The Billy crew had come through the tunnel this morning and had enjoyed a breakfast at the Cargo Cafe. We’d considered one ourselves, an evening meal a few years ago had been very nice, but pancakes needed to be made so as not to waste that sour dough discard.

NB Billy came past, leapfrogging or hopscotching us again. I suspect we’ll be passing them tomorrow.

A load of washing finished in the machine and it was time to leave our neighbours, a grey boat who likes to run his genny and engine til quite late and NB Elvira who it turns out reads the blog, Hello!

Our cruising will slow down now, there are more moorings to choose from and views to enjoy and hopefully people to catch up with. So we checked our map and chose a mooring we hoped would be free.

The sewage works that sit a short distance away is having major work done. The round settling pits look to have gone and there were diggers, all sorts on site. Wagons had been passing us at the wharf every hour or so for the last day. Yorkshire Water are upgrading their waste water treatment processes, enabling them to remove more phosphorus from the water before it heads back into rivers.

At Bridge 149 we looked over our shoulder, a sign welcoming you to Lancashire, we were almost at the border. A stream coming down from the hill is the border and a white sign marks the place.

This border has moved around through the centuries and it wiggles around quite a lot here too, but we class this as the Border. Back in Yorkshire by boat after more than a year.

Another half mile and we kept our eyes peeled for the mooring. Mick spied a couple of bollards on a high wall, that was it. We pulled in carefully so that I could get the bow rope around the first bollard, a pesky rose bush in the way made this a touch difficult. To get the stern in an Andy manoeuvre was called for, but this would have been quite painful for me and the cratch cover. We managed to get close enough into the side and then the sheers came out to do a bit of pruning, the bow rope could then be tied up.

A quick check for feline hazards, none other than a lot of bikes, the doors were opened and Tilly set free for the afternoon whilst the sun did it’s thing drying the washing on the whirligig.

Different play mates today. A donkey to ride on and some geese who had funny noses. She thinks they are Swan Geese, but that doesn’t make sense. Anyhow, none of them minded me sitting on the wall watching them, although they were a touch rude sticking their tongues out at me every now and again!

This outside has several catwalks, all at different levels. These turned out to be quite useful when woofers came by, they could smell me but not see me! There were also some holes which needed me to stick my arm down, but I didn’t find anyone or thing there.

With my flattish starter not rising enough for pizza I popped a gammon joint in the oven to bake, thinly sliced potatoes for dauphinoise, a kind of Christmas Eve meal to celebrate being back in Yorkshire.

0 locks, 1.54 miles, 1 full water tank, 1 load washing, 1 clean pooh box, 3 boxes, 1 free, 11 bags shopping, 1 rendez vous arranged, 80% hire boats, 5.5 hours, 5 swan geese, 1 chocolate donkey, 1 happy cat again, 1 cupboard and 4 drawers cleaned and sorted, 0 bin bags needed for a year, 2 happy boaters back in Yorkshire.

https://goo.gl/maps/nJLaUisjEYoTBUKWA

Going The Wrong Way! 20th July

Barrowford Locks to Foulridge Wharf Visitor Moorings

A slow start to the day, a slow breakfast with no shore leave for Tilly, she quickly accepted this and went back to bed. The boat behind us had gone up the flight on his own and one boat had come down, so we were lucky that the bottom lock was empty and waiting for us.

11:15 we pushed off, I walked up to the bottom lock of the flight only to find that the handy little bridge that used to span the bywash has vanished and the route now is blocked. There was a well worn footpath up the next lock so at least I wasn’t stranded on the off side.

Swapping with the first hire boat of the day

A bit of levelling was required before I could open the bottom gate, by which time I could see that a boat was just entering the lock above. It took a little while before Oleanna was settled in the lock and I was able to lift a ground paddle, above the lock was already emptying, the water running straight down and around the bywash. We were about half way up when a boat approached from below, NB Billy.

We swapped locks with the downhill hire boat and then awaited Billy before entering the second lock in the flight. Clare and Sarah were on their own, Pete and Steve having gone to move their car, they would be returning to join us by bike.

Fortunately there was just enough water in the pound to fill the lock without Oleanna going aground and for Billy to make it over the top cill, so need need to run water down. The chaps soon arrived back and joined the crew.

There were plenty of gongoozlers about, all interested in the locks and our boats as they rose in the next few locks.

Between Locks 49 and 48 Clare spotted raspberry canes on the offside. Whilst the next lock emptied Mick managed to pick a handful, well ten, he didn’t want to get stuck and the wind was a touch blowy, so it was hard to hold his position and pick at the same time, if ever there was a need for Mountain Goat Frank Matthews!

Bikes were loaded back onto Billy, then Clare and Pete swapped roles. Fountains were out cutting the grass around the reservoir. The chaps had two remote control lawnmowers, not quite the size that I’d seen at Hurleston during lockdown. They’d just finished and were driving them up the ramps onto their pickups.

Up at the lock there was a very tame pigeon wandering around the lock gates quite happy eaves dropping our conversations. Pete brought Billy into the lock, but didn’t give her a big enough push to get her nestled behind a bottom gate. A second attempt was needed all the time Clare giving words of advice from above. As the gates closed behind Oleanna we spotted that Mick had a new passenger, the pigeon.

A ring around it’s leg suggested it was a racing pigeon. Had it stopped for a rest? Was it in need of some food?

It had a good wander around our pram cover but then flew off. He’d been hoping to hitch a ride and give his wings a rest, but we were obviously going the wrong way!

We’d just started to lift the gate paddles when Pete vanished inside. Was there a problem? Was he alright? Clare was concerned with nobody at the helm, so she went to be by the tiller, keeping Billy’s stern away from the bottom gates. It turned out that he’d gone to get the rubbish from the well deck as we were alongside the bins.

Looking down over Barrowford Reservoir the level looked quite low. C&RT had lowered the levels of several of their reservoirs for maintenance earlier in the year and as lockdown started to be lifted it looked like there wouldn’t be enough water to last the season. Locks on the Leeds and Liverpool remained closed for a while, then they brought in timed passages, but with the amount of rainfall we’ve had over the last few weeks levels have improved enabling the locks to be open full time. The level must have looked really low back in April and May.

Lock 45, the last lock up onto the L&L summit. Since starting our ascent up Poolstock Locks a week ago we have climbed 400ft and 9″. Apparently we are now at the same level as we were at in Birmingham back at the beginning of the year according to a programme we watched the other evening, although google suggests we might be 8 meters higher!

The Billy crew were stopping for water and lunch whilst we wanted to get through the tunnel and claim a mooring for a shopping delivery. So we waved our goodbyes for today. We pootled on leaving the views behind us.

A chap on one of the offside moorings asked if we used to have another boat and had been in a magazine. Sorry we didn’t get your boats name or yours, but thank you for following us.

Not quite a mile to the south portal of Foulridge Tunnel where we knew we’d have to wait. Foulridge has red and green lights, the passage window of ten minutes on the half hour heading northwards and on the hour for south bound. So we had around about a half hour wait for the next green light. A hire boat had positioned themselves in the middle of the waiting moorings, not quite enough space behind them for us, so we pulled in in front.

One boat came through and when the lights turned green we checked it was okay for us to go first, we wouldn’t have minded waiting but it maybe was just as well as their boat didn’t seem to have warp drive!

Having a big torch at the back of the boat shining up at the ceiling meant we got to see all the formations on the brickwork. Fins of what look like shark jaws all line up against each other as the water drips off them. Maybe the sharks were hopeful that there might be a cow swimming through. Here’s a song about Buttercup. Sadly I didn’t get a photo as we were being followed so couldn’t stop.

Back in the light we warned a Silsden Hire boat of the slow boat behind us and then we carried on to find a mooring. There was space for a couple of boats on the 3 day moorings which would be great for our delivery tomorrow. First we tried at the far end, furthest away from the car park for feline safety, except there was something stopping us from getting into the side. We pulled back, but that was even worse. The close proximity to a shaft/well with birdies down it made our minds up, unsafe for Tilly. The bird looking back up at me was very relieved!

I’ve got enough to contend with without a Cat down here!

We pushed out and reversed back to another space, close to the water point and car park, then we spent the rest of the afternoon saying ‘NO’ a lot to Tilly.

7 locks, 2.58 miles, 1 mile of tunnel, 3 mysterons, 0 cows, 6 hire boats, 1 lost pigeon, 6 crew, 2 boats, 3rd mooring lucky, 0 shore leave, 1 delivery confirmed, 1 Paul Hudson.

https://goo.gl/maps/tyPDU5F47TjpcHWm7

Number Five. 19th July

Pipe Bridge 115A to Barrowford Locks

We really should try to get up earlier, the crew on NB Billy always seem to pass us just after we’ve finished breakfast. Boats were on the move today several having passed us early on and by the time we’d rolled the covers up the boat directly behind us had also moved on. The increase in boat traffic most probably due to Barrowford Locks now being open.

The sun was out but there was a touch of chilliness in the air. We continued on our way following the contour, wiggling back and forth all the time with the M65 close to hand but taking it’s own straighter route along the side of the valley. Views kept coming with every bend more miles of hillside could be seen. I know lots of people think the Ashby Canal is beautiful and has views, but we prefer doing a bit of hard work, climbing some locks and being repaid with spectacular views.

We passed a floating dry dock, a moorhen with her babies and encountered a lot of duck weed. In places the weed stretching right across the canal, we mixed the mushy peas up as we went.

NB Billy was moored up on the visitor moorings at Hapton, meeting with some friends, we leap frogged them, although Pete said we’d hopscotched them! Neither Mick or I used to play hopscotch, but I certainly sang and played The Big Ship Sails. This got me thinking, where had this song come from to keep kids amused and tide up in knots in school playgrounds?

A look on the internet confirmed that it was the last day in September that the big ship sailed, but just where was the Alley, alley O? Some theories were The Manchester Ship Canal, others the Suez Canal and more the Atlantic Ocean. Then the date? The Arctic ship sank on the 27th of September, high tides at the end of September, ships bound for St Lawrence River in Canada had to enter it before the winter ice set in, all sorts of theories about the songs origin. I just remember getting tied up in knots.

Is this a Chinese or an African goose?

As we got closer to Burnley the canal winds under the M65 several more times. We took the opportunity to stop for water at the services on the offside just before Dugdale Bridge. A Dutch Barge sat at one end of the moorings and an ABC hire boat at the other end, leaving the water point free. As we tied up the hire boat pulled out, the chap being a touch too friendly as he cranked up the engine.

As we filled up and disposed of rubbish along with things that had been picked up around the bow and prop, the hire boat returned at warp speed! He shouted over to Mick who was down the weed hatch, ‘You okay?!’ The reply came ‘If you slowed down I would be!!’ Their engine slowed a touch then was cranked back up to warp drive to continue. At least we didn’t think we’d catch him up!

Under the motorway again and then into the blackness of Gannow Tunnel. I remembered to turn the lights on this time. Back in 2016 I’d been drawing below and had forgotten that there was a tunnel so had no cabin lights on!

Now over the motorway for a change, plenty of bridges to keep our interest, new, old. Old mills that have been redeveloped into offices, workshops and residencies.

The moorings at Burnley Wharf were chocka, boats breasted up and a group of boaters sat in the sun drinking with each other outside the closed pub, all very cheery. As we looked back under the bridge we could see a section where steel or iron had been added to the archway. Had this been an access point to load goods, or just reinforcement to the bridge?

Rivets holding the metal to the underside of the bridge

Then the final left hand bend round to line up with Burnley Embankment, The Straight Mile (even if the embankment is only 0.71 miles long). This stands 60ft above the valley floor and reduced the distance it would have taken continuing along the contour to reach the other side. This is one of the Seven Wonders of the Waterways and crossing it Oleanna was bagging her fifth wonder.

From the canal the view of the structure is just straight, not that impressive to look at. But the shear amount of work that went into building the embankment! For us it is the views of the houses that make it special, the lines of neat chimney pots all identical running off down the streets and the views across the roof tops.

At the half way point the embankment becomes an aqueduct to cross over Yorkshire Street, breaking up the straight line just a touch.

The warp drive hire boat was back at base at Reedley Marina and people sat out on the balcony having a drink in the afternoon sunshine. Another day of lunch on the go for us.

Mill after mill after mill. Most have been restored and converted into offices or housing. During the Industrial Revolution Burnley became one of Lancashire’s most prominent mill towns, at it’s peak it was one of the largest producers of cotton cloth and had many foundries and ironworks supplying the mills and coal mines with machinery.

A stone wall had numerous drain pipes, one every 10 to 12 foot. A look at google earth confirmed it was a factory with rows of angled glazing on the roof, letting natural light in and each requiring a gutter and drain pipe.

Between Scotland Road Canal Bridge 141C and Hodge Bank Bridge 141D there is a very handy recycling centre on the off side with its own mooring. Here we could dispose of any recycling and deposit the engine oil from Oleanna’s last service.

Only a mile further on we pulled up below the Barrowford flight. A dutch barge was moored on the end of the bollards, we pulled in on the off side and banged some spikes in. On this side there would be less footfall and Tilly had a great variety of trees to climb which kept her busy for a couple of hours before she was called in for dingding.

0 locks, 13.1 miles, 0.71 miles of embankment, 1 tunnel, 1 scaredy cat again! 1 warp drive, 1 full water tank, 0 rubbish, 2 lots of engine oil, 2 lunches on the go, 1 slow cruise, 1 parasol flying, 1 boat caught, 1 flung glass of red.

https://goo.gl/maps/hapT4vRm86j1KvrR8

Look Left, Look Right, Look Left Again. 11th July

Half a mile west of the M60

The upgraded Bridgewater towpath along with lockdown has attracted the masses out to use it, understandable this close to Manchester. People walking dogs, running, scooting, bikes of all shapes and sizes most with very fat tyres, because you need them on the nice smooth surface.

Today being Saturday meant it would be even busier than yesterday . Tilly needed to brush up on her towpath code if she was to reach the trees today.

Look left,

look right,

check your nails,

go!

We chatted away to the Geraghty’s for an hour as usual. Todays topics included Baby cam privacy, Bacup, cricket bubbles and clingfilm unravelling. Handy tips were shared on the latter matter.

Mick headed off on a bike for our Saturday newspaper and returned with a little bit more. At last he has found a Sainsbury’s who are stocking Cheese Twists, he has been without these since our delivery to Wheaton Aston back on the 10th of March. Apparently there was only one in the shop this morning and I suspect it was the first thing he looked for, woe betide anyone who got to the one solitary twist before he did!

Just re-reading the blog at Wheaton Aston, I noted that I’d had a phone call that day regarding my hospital appointment. Well my appointment was made, then altered within a week. Since then it was cancelled the day before, a few days later a letter arrived at my brothers with a date in September and yesterday another letter arrived changing it to December, ten months after I’d been referred by the optician.

Please don’t get me wrong, there are far more important things that need to be happening in hospitals at the moment and other people requiring tests or treatment who are not receiving it at the moment. This latest letter though gave a few more reasons for the delay. The Trust are redirecting staff, freeing them up for refresher training and to carry out works necessary so they are ‘able to maximise capacity for patients for when the number of infections peak’. This all referring to Covid-19. I’m hoping this was a template that was being used a couple of months ago and has been used by mistake to postpone my appointment due to a backlog of patients. Or it means York Hospital is preparing itself for a second wave!

I did a spot of work this afternoon. Vanessa from Separate Doors has asked me to do a cover illustration for a pamphlet she is writing regarding the pandemic and the learning disabled in theatre. I spent a couple of hours looking at Spanish Flu images, masks, posters, communist images, all sorts for a bit of added inspiration. People back in 1918 were finding different ways to cover their faces just as we are now.

A walk to mull over ideas followed. Along the smart towpath I walked towards Boothstown, dodging my way between other users, many too busy chatting to one another to take a wide berth, so I did my best to make up for it.

A flat backed widebeam was zigzagging its way towards Oleanna so I stopped to check it would pass without incident. A lady was being taught how to steer the boat. As she dropped the revs her concentration slipped and they started heading alarmingly towards the bank, the wheel was turned frantically left and then frantically right. The chap quickly took over, more frantic wheel turning and blast of engine corrected their line just before they passed Oleanna. Phew!

Boothstown Marina came into view, several boats that had passed us this morning were moored up opposite and a new big sign #FLOATIEST sat above a boat.

This sign is made up of knitted squares which took 150 hours to be sewn together. It is faded now as it was erected at Tatton Flower Show in 2017. The group of knitters have worked for the last few years in supporting the restoration and care of the Bridgewater Canal. You can read more about them here. This is what it looked like a few years ago.

Along the towpath are benches each with information plaques about the area. Boothstown Basin was once a busy coal dock, when it was cleared to create the marina in the 1990’s, 37 barges were found, stacked four deep. Coal was brought to the basin by rail from the local coal mines, here it was tipped into the barges causing clouds of coal dust which turned nearby washing black.

There was an underground canal which joined Chaddock Colliery to the basin. Much of the area has suffered from mining subsidence which isn’t so good for canals. Further along at Dover Locks, the locks were removed due to the earth moving so much and the fairly flat towpath occasionally does a bit of a wobble up and down too.

The Moorings Pub has a large stack of picnic benches by it’s car park, tables that have been removed to enable social distancing. The pub seemed to be doing a roaring trade with every table occupied outside and more people in doors.

Back at the boat I put together a smoked salmon and Camembert quiche with a quinoa and Parmesan crust and steamed the very last of the Cheshire new potatoes from our Nantwich veg box. This has been made up from two recipes, a favourite quiche from pre gluten free days and a gluten free crust. The custard for this quiche works a lot better than the one that was suggested for the crust, but then what do I expect when it’s full of cream!

0 locks, 0 miles, 3 miles walked, 511 walkers, 462 dog walkers, 4562 cyclists, 10 boats, 2 hours work, 1 big quiche, 1 rest day full of cricket commentary, 9 hours shore leave, 0 last night at York Theatre Royal, 0 get together with school friends.

DAL. 8th May 2020

David Anthony Leckenby was born on the 25th April 1925 in Acomb, York. His Dad was Cecil an architect, known to my generation for his bushy eyebrows and ability to watch football on a very fuzzy TV.

His Mum was Mildred, a house wife who passed away when I was about 18 months old, and there was Peter his elder brother, who grew up to be a telecoms engineer, living in Trinidad for a number of years.

David attended Archbishop Holgates School just outside the bar walls of York. The fine building now houses part of St John’s College.

During his school days he was interested in architecture and planes. His diaries from this time (the only ones we have) always mention the planes flying over. Maybe one of the Lancaster bombers that flew low over Acomb on the 1st of September 1943 was piloted by Mick’s Dad.

His plane sketches improved through his teenage years

Whenever an old plane flew over our house he would say what it was and then rush out to check he was correct, he inevitably was. I’m sure lots of people who grew up during WW2 could do the same.

Once he’d left school he commuted by train to Leeds where he attended Leeds School of Architecture. He used to tell tales of riding his bike carrying a drawing board as he peddled to and from stations. I was lucky enough to find his diaries from these days a few years ago when sorting through the family house. Sadly there are gaps in them and he certainly got a bit too obsessed with a young lady called Peggy!

His college days were of course interrupted when he was called up, by October 1943 he was writing from the platoon hut in number 7 company lines at Maryhill Barracks, Glasgow.

Over the next year he moved around, June 1944 he was at the 175 class, 140 OCTURE, Ure Bank Camp in Ripon and by December 1944 he was posted to France, then Brugges. Sadly there are gaps in his diaries so I don’t know where he was for VE day. Maybe my brother remembers a tale or two that I don’t.

He never shoot his gun in combat, but was around Europe for the final push.

There are mentions of German mine fields and a tale of picking items up that could have been booby trapped, but luckily for him they weren’t.

Sat on the front row just off centre to the left

In September 1945 he waved farewell to the shores of England and set sail for India. Here with the Sappers he mended bridges, and I believe ended up being one of the last Brits in Hyderabad. Here he did shoot his gun when a snake came out of the overflow on his bath.

We are very lucky to have many of his wonderful sketches of India. Some architectural others of men with cows and landscapes.

Sadly his diaries stop whilst in India. So with the information to hand I don’t know quite when he left and headed home. I do know that he managed to jump ships and come home via Germany where he wanted to meet up with Peggy. She however had shacked up with a Canadian soldier (if he’d looked back at his diary he’d have seen it coming), Dad’s trip a heart breaking waste of effort.

Back home he returned to Leeds School of Architecture. His year was now a mixture of those who had been demobbed and those a few years younger. Stood in a queue one day he spotted a tall young lady, Lillian Heseltine!

They courted, Dad had to sell his prized motorbike to buy an engagement ring.

Proposing on a trip to Rievaulx Abbey where his final project for college was based, they got married in Thornton, Bradford in 1952.

They lived in York, with Dad working in his fathers architectural practice where he became a partner.

He won awards for the Marine Biology building in Robin Hoods Bay.

Many buildings and shop fronts around York were designed by him, he also looked after churches around the city and built our family home in Fulford, which was just still visible from the River Ouse when we last passed.

He loved his walking. Climbing most of the Lake District peeks with Worthington.

Gliding was another love, but he was given an ultimatum by Mum to chose flying or his family. He wisely chose us. For his 80th birthday we bought him a trip up in a glider from Sutton Bank, the club house his design.

A touch different from his earlier flying days

He took up windsurfing instead and got his daughter hooked for a few years too.

If Mum and Dad could think of an excuse for a party, then the house would be filled with people. In fact I think the house was built with parties in mind!

Dad loved his dancing and his record collection, often seen kneeling on the floor with a head torch on so that he didn’t play the shadow of the next record.

Holidays in foreign parts, where food and the local wines were always sampled. Most holiday photos are of people sat around tables.

The beard was grown in 1976 when he became very ill and ended up in a plaster cast from the top of his head to his waist for most of the drought filled summer months. Gradually the white hair crept from his chin and took over his full head of hair.

He got to watch his Grandson Josh grow and became known as Daddy Daddy.

Lots and lots of happy memories.

David Anthony Leckenby 25th April 1925 to 18th September 2012

My Daddy Fatso. xxx

PS I’m aware I can’t spell

A Handful Of Pots And An Apology. 11th April

Lockdown Mooring 4

Firstly an Apology to the BBC. She and I would like to apologise to the BBC (and Gordon Buchanan, he’s my favourite) for suggesting that they hadn’t checked their facts the other day in relation to cats not being allowed out at the moment due to Covid-19. In fact the BBC had been given unclear information from the BVA. The BVA said they “had given information that related to both general guidance as well as specific advice for cats from self-isolating or infected households, but not made the distinction clear.“

“The article suggested that veterinary advice was to keep all cats indoors, but BVA has since explained that this advice is only in relation to cats in infected households or where people are self-isolating.”

We on Oleanna apologise for suggesting that the BBC hadn’t checked their facts. Sorry to Gordon, my favourite is the Polar Bear Family and Me, it’s dead good, luckily Gordon didn’t become their dingding!

So sorry to Adam, Gordon and their colleagues, we like the BBC.

I wish She and Tom would make my dingding wizz round like this. Gordon is great!

Another day of nine hours of shore leave in one place! She says I need to get good at spending time in one outside and it not moving so much, so I spent quite a bit of time snoozing today on the bed instead, well it was a warm day. I did say hello to everyone on the Geraghty Zoom before putting my head down. Tom listened to the cricket and guess what? England actually won!! Again!!!

I decided to see if I could get a better look at those wonderful chimneys back up the canal. With the OS ap now downloaded onto my phone I set off on a three mile walk.

My route took me up by the locks. We’ve been a touch concerned about the amount of water leaking onto the towpath by the bottom lock at Hurleston. Mick this morning saw a CRT chap and asked him about it. The works at the lock haven’t as yet been signed off by the contractor, but apparently there is an artesian well by the lock and that is where the water is coming from. It does seem to be getting wetter each time we walk up there.

I walked along the back of the reservoir and then looped round onto a footpath that runs alongside the A51. This led to a gate onto what must have been the original road still with cats eye down the centre.

A short distance on I got to view the front of Stoke Manor, a wonderful redbrick front with bay windows. It is apparently now owned by the County Council and has been split into flats.

Flat five does however have 4 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, so I doubt they are pokey places. The only interesting thing I could find out about the Manor was that during World War 2 it was used to house landgirls.

The chimneys are so tall and from one angle they resembled a hand. Very fine indeed and worth the stroll to see them.

I then followed the footpath through Stoke Manor Farm out onto freshly sewn fields. A sign asked me to keep to the footpath which wasn’t so obvious. But I soon could make out where others had walked before me, from one tree to the next.

The earth was soft and warm beneath my feet, the small sprigs of green starting to rise towards the sun. Just a scattering of green across the landscape. Maybe I’ll have to return in a few weeks time to see how it’s doing.

I could have crossed over at the next canal bridge but decided to continue to the far end of the fields where Barbridge sits. My map suggested that the path should continue between two houses, but my way was blocked.

A couple were busy in their garden, so I asked them which way the path went, it turned out to be on the other side of their house. I thanked them and then very quickly discovered the path had become a bog!

One of those hop skip and jump moments, hoping that speed would mean I could levitate across the top, my weight not breaking the surface. But gravity knew better and my trainers sank into the mud!

I soon rejoined the road then the towpath and headed back southwards, making a note of a stretch where there might be tree cover should the weather get very hot before lockdown is lifted. Who knows if we’d get into the side here, but it might be worth a try should we seek shade.

The white posts on the reservoir had been photographed by the C&RT chap Mick had spoken to this morning. However he hadn’t asked about them. There are quite a few sets of posts, possibly three lines of them down the embankment each heading off on a different bearing.

This evening we’ve had the nearest meal we can have to an Indian Take Away as every place we’ve seen in Nantwich is now closed. Two dishes from Morrisons, along with my first sag aloo ( I made enough to last a second meal) and an attempt at gluten free chapatis.

Potatoes at the ready and chickpea flour weighed out

The chapatis I made with gram flour (chickpea flour) some oil, cumin and fennel seeds and some water. This makes a dough/paste that you then roll out and fry in a dry pan. They ended up looking a touch drier than normal chapatis, less stretch which is to be expected with a lack of gluten. They were tasty and softened up a touch under the t-towel that kept them warm. I may try a different recipe next time which has arrowroot in it, or maybe one with yoghurt, we’ll see.

0 locks, 0 miles, 3 miles walked, 10 on zoom, 2 handheld cameras, 314 Boothferry Road in Dhaka, 1 boat moving, 1 cat out past curfew! 21 pots at least!, 2 soft fields, 2 muddy feet, 24 posts at least, 4 chapatis, 2 mains, 1 side, 1 rice, 1 test match victory, 1 phone call, 2 boaters sleeping on things.

Just which way will the future have us going?

Traps, Tunnels, Terra Firma And Tara. 5th March

Black Country Museum to Owen Street Bridge, Tipton

After booking ourselves onto the midday tunnel trip we walked back into the Black Country Museum. There were places we’d not looked at yesterday. The first to catch our eye was the Trap Shop.

Here a very knowledgeable chap talked us through the history of trap making. From men sitting hammering shapes, to fly wheel presses churning out parts to a gas powered engine that turned the presses. Sidebotham’s sold animal traps around the world even after they were banned in England. Not the nicest of things they were designed to hold their victim until the hunter came along to release them!

The building was originally ran along the back wall of Sainsburys in Wednesfield, well before the supermarket was there. It was dismantled kept in storage and took four years to build back to how it had been.

We called in at the Pawnbrokers, Tipton in the day had forty such shops, for such a small town this just showed how most of the inhabitants lived from day to day hand to mouth, or not even managing that.

Bottles of stuff, whether they did you any good was a different matter they just looked the business

The chap in the Chemist was full of the new street plans further up the hill. The first building to be erected will be a pub from Wolverhampton. Around 30 million has been raised to create the new street and after many years of planning things are starting to happen. The aim is for the new street to be fully open in two years time, sadly our years pass won’t cover that, but maybe there will be something new before the end of the year for us to look at.

Then Mick spotted a trolley bus. Would it get us up the hill and back down in time for our trip into Dudley Tunnel? We walked up to catch it, but with no passengers waiting for it it headed back up the hill. So instead we walked back down to the lime kilns to see if we could work out which of the sunken boats was an Ampton. Below the surface hulls lurked.

Oleanna is 26 paces long and 58ft 6″. So we needed to find a hull that was around 35 paces long. We think we found two, both very well submerged.

Dudley Canal Trust was heaving with young kids who’d all been on a trip into the tunnel. They were full of it. One lad almost gave us a guided tour without being in the tunnel, he said it was quite ‘Bumpy’. Our boat was far quieter, only six of us. We donned hard hats and sat on the benches. The chap at the helm gave us a running commentary and another fella kept an eye on us and untied the boat ready for the tunnel.

Limestone mines in Castle Hill necessitated a tunnel system to help extricate the limestone. Lord Ward had the tunnels and canals built under the hill, work started in 1775 a year before the Act of Parliament was passed for both tunnel and canal. The work was completed in 1778. The tunnel gave access to the other side of the hill, 3 miles underground, the second longest in the country.

One of the caverns without it’s roof and two tunnels ahead

Large caverns and various tunnels fill the hill. Today the first two caverns have no roof and are open to the sky, then our boat dipped into the black of the tunnels. Now lined with concrete and areas oversprayed the first section is very round, but this soon becomes more rock like. Opening out into a larger cavern we were shown a film explaining how the limestone was created, then the hills pushed up creating fault lines.

On further and another cavern, more film showing how the limestone was mined and how the Victorians used the tunnels for excursions, coming in by boat and listening to bands, having picnics. Today there is a stage where performances can happen, people get married and concerts are performed.

We backed out through a different tunnel, this one lined with handmade bricks. The original method for boats to come through the tunnel was to be legged. Two volunteers took to a plank in the middle of the boat and they started to leg us along. The tunnel being only one boats width meant one way traffic and boats would queue up at either end to await their turn. One chap could leg three boats joined together on his own, meaning he made more money than the normal pairs of leggers.

Once through the main tunnel the boat would enter the big cavern where numerous tunnels headed off, which one was the right way? A lamp hangs in what would have been dusty air to guide you through. They say this is where the term ‘light at the end of the tunnel’ comes from. However our guide didn’t explain how the leggers got the boats across the wide cavern, presumably the boats were poled across here.

Passage through the hill was much easier through Netherton Tunnel, opened in 1858, which was wide and had a towpath on both sides. So by 1959 Dudley tunnel was more or less disused and British Waterways were going to close it, despite protests it finally closed in 1962. Much work was done by determined enthusiasts and it reopened in 1973. In the late 80’s more work was done to open up links between the caverns. Now visitors can go inside in the electric powered boats to see the sights. No diesel engines are allowed in the tunnel due to lack of ventilation and most modern boats don’t have a low enough profile to manage the journey. A very interesting tour, well worth the drips and getting very cold.

Mick still wanted a ride on the trolleybus so we headed back into the museum, but it seemed that the driver must be at lunch, so we joined the queue for a sneaky bag of chips between us before we left.

Time to head onwards. We winded with the bow under the bridge into the museum then pulled up at the services. Water topped up and yellow water disposed of we pushed off and headed to Tipton.

We pulled in behind a couple of boats moored on the off side by the Medical Centre,walked down into the shuttered town centre to find the Co-op to stock up on a few items.

Back at Oleanna we decided that our second mate should be trusted with some outside time, she most probably wouldn’t like it. Chaperoned for a while she nosed at the people in the doctors waiting room and checked under the friendly cover, but no one was around to play with.

A short whole after 4pm a visitor arrived. Heather, Mrs Bleasdale, was in the area and had spotted we were too, so she called in for a cuppa, a hot cross bun and a very good boaty catch up. NB Bleasdale is currently stuck down on the Great Ouse due to high river levels and delayed maintenance. Last year we had a catch up in Weedon, so there was plenty to talk about. The subject turned to the Irish waterways, this is the second person who’s brought the idea up. Costs need to be looked into, but it’s an idea, I might need to do extra work for us to be able to afford it, but it is an idea!

Heather headed off to catch a train and we headed off to walk through Tipton to Mad O’Roukes Pie Factory. We’ve heard mention of this pub by several bloggers but never been. This being our last night on the Birmingham plateau we decided to treat ourselves and managed to time it with Thursday Pie for a fiver night.

The interior of the pub is very much an old style boozer, no modernisation here, just tables and benches to pack in the masses. We managed to find one of only two free tables, ordered our pies and drinks.

Their gluten free menu had five pies for me to choose from. I was excited, it’s not often I get to enjoy a pie. The only shame was that my puff pastry top was only just browned on top. Gluten free things always take longer than normal and I suspect my pie had been put in the oven at the same time as Mick’s. His crust had bubbled up wonderfully, but mine was doing the chewy under cooked gluten free thing that I now avoid by making my own pastry. Such a shame as I’d been so looking forward to a good pie. The filling was very tasty beef and my gluten free battered chips were tastier than Mick’s.

0 locks, 0.54 miles, 1 wind, 1 straight, 0 trolley bus, 1 trap shop, 2 horses, 1 new street all the talk, 1 year and 1 week, 1 sneaky bag, 76 of each, 6 on a boat, 9 million bricks and counting, 1 text message underground, 2 leggers, 1 lamp, 1 Heather, 1 hour shore leave, 2 boxes wine, 2 pies and chips, 1 pint, 1 glass wine, 2 boaters in need of veg.

https://goo.gl/maps/oEFWY2fRKsq1UJhK8

Day 7.

Things are doing well, I’ll give it a day longer, but start keeping the discard for some pancakes. Fed twice today and bubbling nicely.

Three Types Of Each. 4th March

The Black Country Living Museum

With our entrance tickets bought from the Dudley Canal Trust we walked up through the buildings towards the bus stop in the museum. Despite the time tabel suggesting there would be a bus every 15 minutes we decided to walk up the hill to the main entrance. We soon saw the bus and an old car bipping it’s horn at everyone it saw, both were heading to where we’d come from.

First thing was to change our paper receipt for an annual pass. We can now visit as many times as we like for no extra cost. This may only end up being once more, but you never know.

It was a touch damp now outside so we caught the double decker back down the hill to have a walk round. We first visited the museum about eight years ago when we were moving our shareboat NB Winding Down down the country. We had a very good day, but wished we’d had longer. This time we’d go down the mine and have fish and chips!

Once the chippy opened we checked out the claims from the website. The claims were correct and we could place an order for later, but we were expecting company and had no idea what time we’d like our lunch, so we would risk there being a long queue.

Still fills up with petrol on the main road once a week

As midday got closer we caught the bus back up the hill to meet up with Marion (Mick’s sister) and John who were coming for a day trip from Eastbourne. As they had train tickets they could do the Days out two for one.

With winter hours being a little bit tight we chose to head back down the hill again, by bus to the thick of the buildings. There is a large area being redeveloped, if that’s what you can call it when the buildings will all be 1940’s to 60’s that already exist. Sadly this means the mine and funfair are closed at the moment.

Lines of school kids zigzagged through the streets following their period dressed guides. Huddles of them stood in dimly lit shops listening to the proprietors talking about what they sold and what it would have been like there in the 20’s and 30’s, some even earlier.

The radio workshop kept John busy for a while and ladies sat in their kitchens kept warm by their ranges, no cooking going on today. A school mistress taught a class speaking very slowly and awarding two pupils a certificate.

The tailor didn’t have quite what John was after but was very well stocked with Peeky Blinder caps and waistcoats.

The tobacconists would have kept my Mum stocked up with her favourite brands and I’m sure my Dad would have found suitable tobacco to make his own mix from.

1920’s living room with fantastic wallpaper

A 1920’s living room with very smart fan wallpaper had a rug on the floor. I was asked why I thought there were two round marks on it. Was it because something had been placed there and the pile had flattened. No it was a fashion to have rugs which had a pattern, not in colour but in the texture, shag pile and short pile. I’d once aimed to shave one from some carpet for a show, but had run out of time.

By now we were a little bit peckish so joined the queue in Hobbs. Luckily it wasn’t too long, there’s a sign outside where you can sit to while away the half hour before getting served! Our orders were placed. 2 vegetarian, cooked in sunflower oil. 1 gluten free. 1 standard, everything cooked in beef dripping. We found a space to sit and wait, jumping whenever any of the ladies said anything. It didn’t take long, lashings of salt and vinegar were poured into the cones of paper. I have to say it’s the first time I’ve not noticed a difference with gluten free fish. The batter was wonderful and crisp with chunky cod inside. We all wolfed them up whilst inhaling the vinegar fumes.

Lower down on the site a chap demonstrated a beetle Demon and talked about the wallpaper trimming machine in the hardware shop.

Wallpaper was sold with edges that needed trimming, either with scissors or on one of these, at a cost!!

The greengrocers was manned by a lady who told us the history of the shop and the lady who’d run it whilst her husband was away in the 1st world war, he had to retrain when he got home as she wasn’t going to hand it back over to him.

The cinema sat silent awaiting the next showing. A chap hammered away in the dark of his workshop whilst it rained outside, presumably making nails.

We timed a visit to the more industrial end very well with a chain making demonstration about to happen. The metal was heated up to white hot, bent round and then bent further with a hammer. Linked to the previous link the ends were flattened and reheated. We were asked to move back, he them gave the two ends a very big whack to weld them together showering sparks. The link was then reshaped with the help of a hammer operated by his foot. The chain makers had to make so many links a day, 200 and something before they would get paid. For some it took six hours others a lot longer.

We then took a walk up to the Workers Institute where a guided tour was due. The lady we’d seen in the schoolhouse was ready and waiting. Due to the rain we started off indoors. We were on a bit of a tight time frame due to return trains to the south coast, the lady imparted her knowledge, pointed out important people in the photographs, handed round photographs of chain makers, more photos of people, they just kept coming, was she going to give us the life history on everyone in the group photos?

Time was ticking, there was still the tat in the shop to look at and still more photos were handed round. We made our excuses , did a quick flit up the stairs and back down as the tour were about to go that way. I’m sure the tour would have been very interesting, but we simply didn’t have the time.

They managed to get a better rate of pay through the unions

Up the hill in the rain for a purchase or two before heading back down to be through the bottom gates before they closed at 3:45pm. Time for a quick cuppa and warm up back at the boat before Marion and John headed off to return southwards. A very good day.

0 locks, 0 miles, 12 month passes, 40’s 50’s 60’s coming soon, 2 day trippers, 2 veggie of each, 1 gluten free of each, 1 full everything of each please, 1 school, 1 institute life time, 3 bus rides, 1 link, 0 horses, 17 radios, 1 rug, 1 cinema, 2 visitors, 1 living and breathing museum, 0 shore leave yet again!

Day 6, Morning

It’s been bubbling overnight and then deflated.

Day 6 Night

About three hours after feeding. There is hope of sour dough bread this weekend

Narrowboat Oleanna

Travels of Narrowboat Oleanna