We had to use up the spare potatoes from the moussaka!
Sunday, well you’ve got to!
Rain showers came over, it was chilly outside, extra layers were called for.
Meandering
Just around the bend the river opened out even more. Large shallow lakes had many a bird dabbling in the mud. The cows with black ears all came to check us out as we passed. They were really rather nosy and the same gang who’d spotted Tilly and myself yesterday afternoon, there has to have been a fence that stopped them cutting us off from the boat.
More cows with their young watched as we passed by. Little birds flitted between the reeds chirping their hearts out. All very pretty, if only it would stop raining!
A bridge, then the concrete walls of the aqueduct over the Cut Off Channel, no views here either.
The engine’s nearly bigger than the boat!
A new looking house, or has it just been repointed with a new roof, showed off an extension made from flint. A small cruiser with a very large outboard sat on the mooring in front, not a bad spot to live.
A choice
The railway now got closer, then crossed over head, small trains heading back and forth to Norwich.
Narrowing
Now the river narrows and the current increases, more revs required. Was that a bit of a brick wall? Could it have been Sheepwash Staunch in the past? A check on our map confirmed it was in the right place.
Brandon Lock ahead
Soon between the trees came the view of our first lock in over a week, Brandon Lock. We pulled in on the moorings below, the lock could wait for tomorrow, we needed to warm up and go shopping.
Sad Gits organic chicken! Before
Brandon Lock Mooring sits alongside a large allotment and some sports facilities. Today a group of men were playing basketball as we passed, a Dad sat on swings with his daughters and a teenage couple hid under the trees to avoid any further rain. We headed to Tescos, just a short walk away to stock up on food for the next week. The shop wasn’t as big as we’d expected but I spied an organic chicken in their sad gits section greatly reduced to the price of a standard chicken, that was the Sunday roast sorted! No beetroot or Polyfilla though. Some rethinking of the weeks menu was required and my project would have to wait until tomorrow to continue.
Oleanna, not quite as far as she can go yet.
Back at Oleanna Tilly had an explore, nowhere near as impressive as the outside we’d left this morning, but she coped, returning fifteen minutes before cat curfew.
Brandon Lock
Mick and I walked up to the lock to have a look, the bottom gates wide open, expectant of the next uphill boat. Brandon Lock is a lock we know we won’t fit through, it is only 39ft 4inches long and 13ft 1inch wide, so not even two short narrowboats would fit side by side. So not even the 57ft ‘ideal’ length boat would fit through here.
Sad gits chicken. After
A while after we’d settled with the chicken roasting away and the stove lit a cruiser came past. The chap headed for the lock, in through the open gates. He was short enough to be able to go beyond and see what lies there. Maybe tomorrow we’ll walk a stretch of the river bank.
0 locks, 6.06 miles, 2 bridges, 2 moving boats all day, 1 wet day, 1 cold day, 2 boxes wine, 1 cheep chicken, 3 hours shore leave,1 boater sleeping the furthest east a boater can sleep on a boat over 39ft 4″.
The Swan On The River to New Fen GOBA Mooring, River Little Ouse
Boat grown addition to breakfast today
Time to unplug ourselves and push over to the other side for water, boats had been moving off including the Black Prince boat that would have been in our way. As we rolled up the covers a chap from the hire cruiser ahead of us stepped off his boat.
Yep I’m looking at you.
He’d been around yesterday showing off his jacket. Then his wife stepped off the boat in her pyjamas, they kicked their heels for a little while, obviously waiting for us to go, she made out she was doing some exercises.
Christine you are right, the elephants are upside down!
As soon as we’d pushed the bow out and waved them goodbye, they sprang into action. She got her phone out, he donned a Captains hat and held a pipe in his hand, then posed in front of their cruiser. Glad they are having a lovely time on their hols.
Sun’s out
Thankfully the water pressure was good and we were soon able to push off again, winding and heading northwards. Our first job today was to fill with diesel, the tank gauge was reading a quarter full, the lowest we’ve had it since Oleanna was brand new. We’d last filled at Rugby Boats at the beginning of May since when we’ve covered quite a lot of water.
We passed the high banks, a chap was doing something at the EA moorings just north of The Boat Haven, the recent rain having helped give the grass seed a helping hand. A wonky cottage when zoomed in on looks even wonkier. The window sills peeling away from the windows and some disturbingly large cracks, we doubted you’d be able to get a mortgage on such a house. This wasn’t the last such property we’d be seeing today.
At The Ship we turned onto the River Little Ouse and slowed right down, the tributary far narrower and lined on both sides with boats. After a half mile we spotted the Little Ouse Moorings service pontoon and pulled in. Thank you Paul and Brian for pointing us here. Mick tried calling the phone number but got an answer phone, so we climbed up over the flood bank and down the other side to find the farm with its big modern gates and rang the doorbell.
What a poppy!
Natalie appeared, collected her keys and came to fill up our diesel tank. There was time to chat diesel, white versus red, Calor gas and the shortages, she suggested where we might try if we needed a new bottle in the coming weeks, she’s only had one new bottle since October!
Snoozing in the sunshine
At £1.48 a litre we knew the bill would be high, not as high as if we’d filled in Ely where their pump was boasting £1.51 the other day. We took on 125 litres, paid in the office, then had a quick lunch before pushing away from the pump.
We had a two hours cruise before we’d reach a mooring today, thank goodness the flood banks came and went opening out the view first one side then the other. A distant view of Ely Cathedral, tractors in the fields, trees blew in the wind as we chose whether to wear coats or not.
Only two bridges to pass under, neither of them taking much traffic other than for farming.
Then the end of a wonderful ramshackled building came into view. The end wall somehow standing up, a large brick chimney in the middle. As we came round to view the longer side of the building the floors really couldn’t find any more angles to lean at. This was The Waterman’s Arms at Redmere it closed in 1956 and still stands , sort of!
Left please
The navigation bends off to the left as Lakenheath Lode joins. High up on a bank I could spy what I thought were two herons. Not often you see herons together.
Common Crane
But later on zooming in on the one photo I’d managed to take I spotted that the bird had a touch of red to it’s head and it’s neck was far too thick for a Heron. This I’m fairly sure was a Common Crane.
Xanadu!
More unused buildings were Xanadu Boat Hire, portacabins not that appealing.
Bird of prey, but which one?
There were also birds of prey circling above. Were these Marsh Harriers, Kites, other birds of prey? A look on the internet gave us comparisons between birds, but for that to be of any use you really need to know more about what you are looking at, rather than just the silhouette against the sky.
The GOBA mooring signs came into view. The edge a touch uneven and overgrown, this would need a considered step off to moor up. We continued a little way before trying, but then neither of us could get back on board! Once Mick was back at the helm we pulled back almost to the start of the moorings where it was easier to get on and off. The plank came out to make it even easier, even Tilly was quite happy to make use of it before she pranced about in the long grass.
The planks out
0 locks, 11.04 miles, 2 winds, 1 right, 1 left, 100ft backwards,14 boat grown strawberries, 1 Captain twonk, 125 litres, 2 wonky buildings, 3.5 hours shore leave, 2 cranes, 4673 damselflies, 24569 yoyo flies, 1 Kingfisher this way, 1 Kingfisher that way, 1 mooring in the middle of nowhere.
Plenty of miles to tick off today so no lounging around in bed with a cuppa. Other people were up and at work, as we sat having our breakfast two Middle Level Commissioners vans arrived on the bank above our mooring, they’d come to make the mooring official by adding a sign.
The chaps worked away and as we got ready to push off they headed off to position the next new sign.
We pushed off and headed towards March. The birdies chirped and darted about in the reeds to each side of us. The banks a suitable height to give you a bit of a view, not block it totally. Yesterday we’d passed several pill boxes today at least one more.
Fairly soon we were approaching March, passing the marina where the hire boats have been coming from. Everyone in March seems to have a detached garden. Houses sit on one side of a road, their gardens on the other, terraced down towards the water. Plenty of people have made a great effort, places to sit out, landings, windmills, crocodiles. One stretch seems to have an epidemic of sheds going on, one after the other with just a narrow path between them.
The first public mooring we came across was closed the bank subsiding into the water. The moorings opposite the services was full, we pulled up to top up with water, dispose of rubbish and as it was on the right side we emptied the yellow water too. Thankfully through the bridge there was space, plenty of it for us to pull up to go shopping. Yes I did a shop in Peterborough, that was really just in case we couldn’t stop here in March, there was plenty we wanted and with Sainsburys close by it turned into a four bag shop. A visit to Boots too for some Hay Fever tablets of the right variety, I spotted a Boyes (possibly the furthest south they come), we’ll be stopping to have a better look later.
After an early lunch we pushed on, passing more houses and gardens, one stretch trying to mimic beach huts. The sky was now blue with fluffy clouds, no need for the extra layers we’d started the day with.
Straight on past the Twenty Foot River which seemed a touch wider than it’s name suggests. At Popham’s Eau junction we veered left keeping to the link route. We passed Charlotte Rose whom we’d shared the last Nene locks with and a hire boat sat nestled in amongst the reeds enjoying the afternoon sunshine, no rope visible, the gentle breeze just holding them to the bank.
As the channel now narrowed there was an increase of weed, the sort that hampers your progress somewhat. Thankfully today it wasn’t too bad, just the occasional blast of reverse to free the prop was needed.
A Lock!
A lock! Marmont Priory Lock would rise us up from the lower level by 6ft 8inches onto Well Creek. The lock was partially filled, hydraulic paddle gear needed to be wound so many times slowly inching up the slackers.
Oleanna waiting below the lock
Inside the lock was a layer of scum, possibly dead duck weed mixed with polystyrene, there was also a big plank.
The paddle gear at the top end only required one to be lifted and that had a marker on it. Oleanna rose up to Well Creek right by the rather pretty front door of the lock cottage. Progress was now slower than before. The gates of Marmont Priory Lock need to be very well closed so that the creek stays in water, a drop here can take days to rectify.
Upwell
Progress slowed even more as we reached Upwell where the channel narrows even more. We ended up on tickover to make any headway, the water around us just about enough for us to move.
Upwell and Outwell reminded us of villages we go through on our scenic route from Scarborough to York. The linear villages cling to the road and have a stream running alongside, driveways crossing on small bridges. Here the stream is far bigger and it’s mostly footbridges that crossed over our heads requiring us to duck.
The houses mostly have plaques boasting their names and dates. A butchers was spied and the fish and chip shop has it’s own mooring! I’ll have to check to see if they do gluten free. We made note of moorings as it looks like we’d need to have a good explore around here.
Sign posts to Littleport and Wisbech. An old college friend came from Wisbech, she used to say no-one had ever heard of it, well I have now! At the most northerly point of the Middle Level is where the Wisbech Canal used to head further north, now it is just a steep bend for us to negotiate. There’s a mooring here, but maybe you’d get biffed by passing boats!
That’s pretty wide
Over Millicourt Aqueduct we crossed over the end of the Main Drain, such a romantic name. It looked very wide down there so possible to wind, we’ll have to check our maps for any low bridges that would stop us from getting there.
Now a busy road, A1122 hugs close to the creek. The banks now lower giving more of a view. Pylons stretch off into the distance both ways, only broken up by two smaller towers. I checked on the OS map, almost 21 km straight before a slight kink.
Our planned for mooring just came into sight, Glady Dacks. A rather rickety afair, one end looked better than the other. We pulled in and stepped off cautiously. A bench and table sat by Oleanna, a good means to be able to step up to see the other side of the high bank separating the road from us. On one side it looked like Tilly heaven, the other side it looked like she’d be assisted on her way. Sorry Tilly, no chance.
But please!!!!
Now there were secret things to do. A birthday cake was mixed up, popped in a loaf tin to bake. It needed a bit of attention as it baked, added toppings, foil and an extra five minutes in the oven, then once cooled off some lemon icing.
Lower banks
Dinner was Turkey Schnitzel with spaghetti, I was too busy to take photos so the recipe will follow the next time I make them. Then Tilly and I had to hide away in the bedroom to do secret things. Wrapping on a bed isn’t the easiest of places but we managed. All done and ready for tomorrow just before the 10pm news, I don’t think Mick noticed a thing!
1 lock, 16.84 miles, 2 maybe 3 straights, 1 left, 1 big bend, 2 boxes wine, 1 Boyes, 60 hayfever tablets, 1 slab of salmon, 8 asparagus tips, 1 warm dry evening hoped for, 3 evenings no shore leave, 1 long day, 3 presents wrapped, 1 blueberry lemon cake baked, 2 much icing, 1 pooped Pip.
Tilly was given an hour shore leave whilst we had breakfast, with not far to go today it wouldn’t matter if she was a touch longer. As we started to get ready Mick chatted to the chap from the boat next door on NB Mushy P (good name). They compared notes about boating, moorings etc and it turned out we were both heading for water in Peterborough.
We ended up leading the way as the wind caught NB Mushy P out. Approaching the town bridges crossed the river, swans filled the water and two large barges hugged the banks, both bars and restaurants. The long embankment stretched out ahead of us, a boat already at the services, we pulled in behind having to be creative with how we tied up. Mushy P pulled up further ahead and we both waited for the tap to become free.
The chap from NB Bob imparted knowledge to us about moorings, pubs, and shops we’d find on our way. All useful information if you can remember it!
Once the tank was full we reversed back to a space and tied up. We knew Tilly wouldn’t be enamoured. The embankment even though it is a green space with trees is very open so quite risky. She didn’t stay on land long, came back inside to see if the outside at the bow was any better!
It wasn’t!
As it says
Time to do a bit of exploring. Our route took us past The Lido. An Art Deco swimming complex with three heated outdoor pools and sun terraces. We decided it was maybe a touch too windy for such activities today.
Blimey that’s big!
Peterborough Cathedral was a bit of a surprise to us. Neither of us had thought that it would be so big or important.
The first monastery on the site was founded in 655AD, at that time called Medeswell. It was built in timber but later replaced in stone. In 870AD Vikings, possibly led by ‘Ivar the Boneless’, attacked and destroyed the monastery. Between 966-970AD the monastery was refounded as a Benedictine house, a town began to spring up alongside which became known as Peterborough after St Peter, a statue sits high on the west facade.
The cathedral and monastery were attacked numerous times through it’s history, fires have also wreaked havoc. In 1118 a replacement monastic church was begun the start of the present cathedral, it was consecrated in 1238. The original wooden ceiling in the nave still survives, the only such ceiling in the country. It has been overpainted twice still retaining it’s original style and pattern. Today a group of ladies were busy working on a 3m long tapestry celebrating the ceiling, they get very cold feet and have been allowed a big light for when the sun doesn’t shine.
I love ceilings like this
At the end of the 15thC the presbytery roof was renewed and a ‘New Building’ was created at the east end with fine fan vaulting showing off the late Perpendicular style.
Katherine of Aragon, Henry VIII’s first wife was buried in the monastic church, her tomb stone today adorned with pomegranates. In 1541 the former abbot John Chambers was made the new bishop and the abbey church became a Cathedral, was this because Katherine was buried here?
In 1587, 5 months after her death Mary, Queen of Scots was buried in the cathedral, after 25years she was moved to Westminster Abbey. The other day when we were at Fotheringhay I mentioned that the plaque relating to Mary had the dates 1586/7 on it. A comment from Tim Bridge explains this. The two years are because at that time, the year changed on March 25th (Lady Day). So Mary was executed in Feb 1586 by the reckoning of the day, but in 1587 by the way we count the years today. One side effect of this is that it is possible to look in a church register and find the burial in January of a child born in June the same year! Thank you Tim.
Lots of arches
During the Civil War the cathedral was ravaged when it was taken by Oliver Cromwell, nearly all the stained glass, alter, cloisters and Lady Chapel were destroyed and many of the books from the library were burnt .
In the 1880’s the central tower was rebuilt, followed by refurbishment of the central and eastern ends of the cathedral. The fine hand carved choir was added and extensive marble was laid at the high alter.
The West Façade
A fine building all round, except I miss it having the presence from a distance that tall towers give other cathedrals. The west façade is worth a visit itself.
We then had a wander around town, sussing out whether the market would be worth a visit tomorrow. But when we arrived all we found was rubble!
Not quite a market anymore!
The market is currently closed reopening on a different site next month. What a shame as I like a good market. We’ll have to cope with Asda and maybe some bits from Waitrose instead.
0 locks, 1.51 miles, 1 left, 1 full water tank, 0 rubbish, 1 unimpressed cat, 17 trees withcomb overs, 1 cathedral, 1st wife, 1 Queen of Scots, 7 pomegranates, 0 market, 157 swans.
Not quite up to yesterdays standards, but not bad.
In Scarborough the alarm was set early, last of the house jobs to be done, then pack up and leave in time for the train to York. There I chose to walk the straight route to the hospital, over Scarborough Rail Bridge, up St Mary’s, through the grounds of Bootham Hospital and into the main hospital site.
During my last eye test pre-pandemic the optician hadn’t been happy with something, she wanted me to have further tests done which could only happen at a hospital. I was referred, had my appointment changed several times during 2020 but finally got to be seen that December.
I was diagnosed with Drusen a build up of lipids and protein near the optic nerve. Some drusen occur naturally with age, others can be a sign of macular degeneration. Today was a follow up appointment, I had had to chase the hospital up regarding it, but I was here at last.
Big letters
Last time I had all sorts of tests done, eye drops, photos, it took ages. Today I had to read the usual eye test chart in area B. Then go to area A where I had a periphery sight test, a full five minutes of trying to spot the little dots. Back to area B where I was very quickly seen by Mr M Moosa. He shone the BIG light into each eye in turn. There had been no change to my Drusen so he was happy to discharge me and I should now mention it when visiting the opticians. Quite a relief.
What was York County Hospital where my Dad spent a month in a plaster cast in 1976
Now because I had booked a cheap ticket I had over four hours to kill in my home town. What to do? What to see? I became a tourist, but one with local knowledge and did a bit of shopping too as it’s someone’s birthday soon! Shh!!!
I walked round places I have known and loved. The pub the amateur dramatics used to frequent is all boarded up. A great family friends old flat is up for sale.
A visit to Barnetts, a must when in York (really it is!), they had some drawer handle screws that we needed for the freezer.
I followed a busker through the streets until he set up camp at the top of The Shambles to play his squeeze box, sing and jig a puppet around. I was relieved that Margaret Clitherow‘s house was still there and not been taken over by more Harry Potter tat shops.
Grape Lane, Coffee Yard. Up to the Minster’s south transept where I corrected a couple who thought that York Bar Walls only stretched from Goodramgate to Bootham Bar! I ended up having quite a chat with them suddenly feeling like a local again not a tourist.
The South Transept
After a sit down on the Minster steps I discovered that there is a Cat Trail around the city, two black cats sitting high up on buildings on Goodramgate.
A local architect Tom Adams had black cats put on his buildings, but there are many more that date back before his time. I knew of some, but certainly not all.
A meander around York wouldn’t be right without going through the Museum Gardens and down to the river. Here a chap adjusted his tyre fenders. Plenty of space today, only three narrowboats and one cruiser, sadly no ice cream boat!
Boats!
Have to admit I was very glad of the sit down on the train back to Peterborough where it had been raining most of the day and Mick had even lit the stove. Mick had used the wind and rain as an excuse to not change the oil and filters on Oleanna as his back would have got wet!
0 locks, 0 miles, 2 trains, 9 miles walked, 1 house cleaner, 2 eyes discharged, 1 relieved designer, 4 hours being a tourist, 4 boats, 1 very warm boat to come home to.
No trains now until next weekend, so no point in hanging around and anyway we needed to find a mooring where Tilly would be allowed shore leave. We don’t trust her on pontoons especially on rivers where one wrong pounce into the friendly cover could have her swept away.
Water Newton
Another lovely morning as we wound our way round towards Peterborough. What a pretty lock Water Newton is. Church just there, converted mill over there, mown lawns, swans and three chaps smoking weed and dangling their feet over the edge of the lock landing! Not quite the place you’d imagine them to hang out, but the view was worth seeing.
By now we’d been caught up by a chap on a cruiser. I walked ahead to drop the guillotine and set the lock. He was happy to join us if we went into the lock first, he then bow hauled his boat in alongside us having to manipulate his ropes around a twiggy tree. He then went on ahead to set the next lock.
Nosy cows
To think we have travelled along the A1 so many times and not realised that the river lay just so close. Zooming along you’d miss most of the little glimpses towards the river between trees and buildings, but on the water the noise follows you.
Moorings on both sides
At Alwalton Lock our locking partner was just opening the gates for us to enter, perfect timing. I took over from him at the controls where a strategic stick had been used to hold the ‘lower gate’ button in. The gates needed a touch of adjusting so that the white light came on on the panel, then I could lift the guillotine.
Alongside the lock there is an EA mooring and on the other side of the weir cut is a FOTRN mooring, quite pretty but a touch noisy with the A1 so close.
We managed to swap with an uphill boat below the lock, our partner zooming off ahead, if he found somewhere suitable he’d moor up, if not we might see him at the next lock.
Milton Ferry Bridge
Park land draws you in towards Peterborough. The fancy Milton Ferry Bridge and Ferry Meadows. We considered mooring in the Meadows, there’s a 24hrs mooring there, but this would be too far out for our needs in the next couple of days. After an hour of cruising we arrived at Orton Lock the last none tidal lock on the River Nene.
Last lock
Here big sluices line up alongside the lock. Our partner had waited for us and another boat was coming up in the lock, helping to set it for us. Down we came with Charlotte Rose our partner, he pulled in to make use of a nearby Co-op whilst we carried on in towards the city.
Peterborough has several moorings we could use, plenty on the embankment, but we had one in our sights, tucked away off the main river, but would there be space for us?
Rowing lake
The entrance in towards the rowing course isn’t advertised, it brings you alongside the course and then opens out into a large pond, a private basin further along past The Boathouse. As we turned in we could see there was a narrowboat already there, but would there be space for us too? Yes, plenty of room alongside the decking. This will do nicely!
Space!
The decking has seen better days and reminded me of walking on scenic flats, knowing where the structure lay behind a wise thing so as not to put your feet through! With trees alongside and friendly cover Tilly was gone for some time.
Bye!
This evening I have had a photo sent to me on facebook taken yesterday at Wansford. A friend I used to work with uses the tea rooms at Wansford as a pit stop when he’s on the A1. Yesterday he’d stopped for a break and a cuppa, sat at the picnic benches above the moorings and got a photo of the train coming into the station a couple of hours earlier than the one we saw, we’d missed him by an hour and a half!
Waking up in the shadow of a castle isn’t a thing we do frequently, Newark is the only other place we can think of. Windsor is too far away as is Beeston Castle. Fotheringhay made for a good view this morning, sheep now grazing where Tilly had explored last night.
Oor morning view
As we had breakfast a group of people sat on the top of the mound, their three dogs following the trails around it of Tilly’s scent.
The church dominates the sky line for miles
What a glorious day, one for sun cream, maybe I’ll be swapping our wardrobes from winter to summer soon. But then again it may just snow next week! Pulling away we decided that this might be a good place to meet up with the London Leckenbys on our return. If they could get one of the river side pitches and us a mooring alongside that would be ideal for a weekend. Behind us for quite some miles the tower of St Mary and All Saints remained in view, I’m looking forward to have a look round it in a couple of months time.
Calm before the stampede
At Warmington Lock we had great views all around, the sheep in the field next to us were very friendly, coming up to the fence to watch we were doing things right. As Mick brought Oleanna into the lock there was a sudden stampede from the far side of the field. Were the Mums and lambs being rounded up by the farmer?
It soon became very obvious that there was a dog in the field, but not a sheep dog. As two small dogs sprinted across the field I could see a chap running towards a gate from the next field, the dogs already way ahead! We watched, nothing we could do, only hope that the sheep could manage to get away before any harm was done.
Thankfully the sheep slowed down and the two dogs could be seen returning to their owner, one was picked up the other carried on to the other people before being put back on a lead. The path they followed came past the lock, through two gates. All three dogs were now on leads, but their owners didn’t seem to have the ability to close gates behind them! So much for the Countryside Code and keeping their dogs under control!
Mick walking back to get Oleanna
The route to Elton Lock is a little convoluted from the lock landing due to the route the weirs take. Once Oleanna was all tied up Mick came to help. Boats above polished their brasses in the shade of some trees whilst a Dad pumped up a paddleboard below ready to take his little lad for a ride.
Today the sky was filled with sky divers. Planes were taking off and dropping people way up high. As one group neared the ground another could be seen as tiny specks pulling their parachute cords. The views up there must have been amazing today.
Above Yarwell Lock we made use of the water point to top up. The pressure was good so after fifteen or so minutes we went to set the lock, just as we opened the top gates Oleanna’s water tank started to over flow, perfect timing.
A new looking executive estate sits around a basin. Inside I spied a dusty looking narrowboat. Most of the houses facing the river were making the most of their views with two story windows, views from the master bedrooms.
We managed to keep our distance despite the flow of the river
Soon we were following a couple in an inflatable canoe. They had no idea that there was 20 tonnes of boat gradually getting closer to them, Oleanna just about in tick over. They dabbled their paddles in the water occasionally, pointing things out. If the next lock hadn’t been round the corner we’d have given them a ‘Bip’ on the horn. We managed to stay at a safe distance but the wise words we’d been given before doing the Tideway cruise last year came to mind, ‘Keep looking behind you’.
At last they pull away
The lock landing was full, two cruiser having just come up. We were spotted and stared at. Eventually the penny dropped that we might be wanting to use the lock and not just tread water for an hour or so admiring the view with nowhere to moor up! The crew dithered. ‘YES’ we did want the lock. The control cabinet was closed, the guillotine left down, one lady went to lift a paddle to fill the lock but changed her mind. What they actually needed to do was get back on their boats and move out of the way. This all took time as there had to be a discussion as they climbed back on board, but in the end they finally moved off. Good job the lady hadn’t lifted a paddle as the bottom gate hadn’t been closed fully, easily solved and the gate being almost down did save a lot of finger ache.
A swans nest full of eggs
Now the river winds it’s way towards Wansford where the Great North Road crosses. First the original bridge, Old North Road Bridge, most of what is seen today was built in the 1600s but had improvement works done through the centuries, the main arch has a date stone of 1795. Just before the bridge are wonderful buildings, a coaching house from when this was the main north south route.
Old North Road Bridge
In 1929 the Great North Road moved to a new bypass with a bridge to the east. This bridge boasts that it spans into two counties and halfway across still sits the boundary post, even though the boundary changed in 1965, the two counties becoming one.
1929 bridge in the back ground, 1975 foreground
Increasing traffic necessitated a second bypass in 1975 running parallel to the first, this became the southbound carriageway the 1929 bridge the northbound.
Model railway where the scales have gone a little awry
The river now heads back southwards, we had our fingers crossed that there would be space on the EA mooring at Wansford Station. As we came under the railway bridge we managed to join a hire boat already moored up, mooring with our centre and stern lines was the way forward, adding another rope from one of the fender eyes to hold the bow closer to the pontoon, the flow of water wanting to push this out.
We timed that right!
We settled down for a late lunch and had a look at the time table for the Nene Valley Railway. Currently trains only run on Saturdays and Sundays, the last one due back into the station at 15:45, twenty minutes time. When we heard the bell ring we made sure we were outside ready to see the engine coming back across the bridge into the station. Very well timed, 34081, 92 Squadron pulled the carriages in to the station.
We had a wander about later, the station closed, but enough for us to see. A check on the website for our return, we won’t be joining the whiskey train £100 for two, anyhow I’m not in the slightest bit partial to whiskey. Even a fish and chip trip would cost us a touch too much, maybe we’ll just save up for an All Day Railcar Rover at £12 a head.
Glad he got the right door
4 locks, 9.19 miles, 2 dogs not in control, 1 field of worried sheep, 2 dithering ladies, 2 too relaxed canoeists, 3 bridges, 1 great road, 0 shore leave, 1 boat just in time, 1 Sunday roast chicken.
The Geraghty zoom was joined today from the helm. Camera facing forwards much of the time as we just seemed to be silhouettes. The family accompanied us through Wadenhoe Lock, the moorings by the pub chocka block, maybe our return here shouldn’t coincide with a weekend.
The day has been full of church views. St Michael and All Angels Church at Wadenhoe, St John the Baptist at Achurch, St Andrews at Cotterstock, St Mary and All Saints at Fotheringhay, I’m guaranteed to have missed some!
We’ve had paddle boarders, red kites overhead, locks and more locks.
Heading into Oundle
At Oundle we remembered the day NB Lillyanne had her out of water survey done. We’d come down to meet the surveyor and hear his verdict first hand. She needed blacking, the lights inside sorting along with keeping her well aired to help with condensation. As we left we pulled in at the layby alongside Upper Barnwell Lock and called ABNB to confirm our offer, if I remember rightly a couple of grand off the asking price to pay for the works needed. As we sat there Merve and Elaine came past in Lillyanne so we could confirm the sale with them too. It was the furthest they’d been on her and had really enjoyed the cruise.
A very fine mill
Upper Barnwell Lock has a very fine mill alongside. I think eight years ago it had been a restaurant, today its a kitchen and bathroom show room. Then a very low bridge at 7ft 10″, we’d been warned about it, but fitted through only having to dip our heads.
Lower Barwell Lock has recently had new sensors added to the slackers (paddle gear). I could just see them and as we wound down the slackers a little arm was pushed out of the way, connecting a circuit to allow us to operate the guillotine gate.
We got a glimpse of Cotterstock Hall before the lock and there are some seriously posh houses at Tansor. One of those would do nicely with a mooring.
Does anyone know what these signs are please?
The long straight on the river meant rowers. A chap informed us there were a few boats out on the river and just to ‘BIP’ our horn as we approached, which we did.
Our handy buoy
Many of the lock landings have an overhang, which means Oleanna’s cabin sides are at risk of being scraped. Mick has been deploying our big red buoy just where it’s needed at the stern to keep her a safe distance away. So far the cabin side at the bow has only been in danger once.
Fishing lake behind the trees
Alongside Perio Lock there is a large lake, one of many we’ve passed, where numerous fishermen were set up for a weekends fishing. They waved at us as we waved back, everyone happy not to be in the way of each other.
Setting the lock
Perio Lock was the last for today, another wheel operated lock. The counter weight at this lock has been set incredibly well, at one point whilst raising the guillotine it wanted to raise all by itself! A bit more manual effort was needed to get it right to the top and locked off, but it was nearly a joy to work.
It was built to have its photo taken
The very fine St Marys and All Saints church stands high above the surroundings, immaculte in the sunshine. Fotheringhay was to be our mooring for today, white posts marking where you can moor on a farmers field.
Plenty of of boats have bumped and scraped their way through here
The first stretch has a very high bank and we didn’t fancy it. Through Fotheringhay Bridge which if you are wide is the lowest bridge on the river. Downstream more moorings stretched out. We looked for a lower bank, this was possible but very close to some campers, so we decided to reverse back to join another narrowboat below the castle. The plank was brought out to make getting on and off that bit easier for humans, the four legged crew of course had no problem, well the amount of humans about was a problem at first.
Let’s play Spot the Tilly!
Fotheringhay Castle was the birth place of Richard III on October 2nd 1452. It is also the place where Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots was beheaded. A plaque alongside a large piece of castle rubble gives the date of her demise as 8th February 1586/7, I wonder why the two years?
Only a hair cut today
Time to give Mick a hair cut, I did my best and refrained from there being a second beheading in the castle grounds, although I can’t say the same for Tilly! With fewer people about she had the castle mound all to herself, well maybe a rabbit or two too.
Surveying her kingdom!
She and I had a walk to the very top, a very good view with a breeze. From here I could plot my route down via as many rabbit holes as possible. Storm clouds gathered, the following rain storm didn’t deter Tilly from checking just about every hole she could get inside! Thankfully no large friends were brought home.
We’d woken on another list, this time the other way round, Oleanna most probably just settling in the silt. Our neighbour got going before us and as we pushed out a narrowboat headed straight for our spot as if we’d been keeping it warm for them.
Blue blue sky
What a gorgeous morning! Blue skies surrounded us.
Mowing
A chap sat on his lawn mower spraying out grass clippings as he went, obviously not part of the ‘No Mow May’ brigade. But then as we looked back we could only just about see his house! That’s one big lawn!
A queue!
Woodford Lock was not too far away and we soon started winding down the guillotine gate. A wide beam appeared behind us, it had to tread water until Oleanna was moved off the lock landing. The advantage of being followed on these locks is that so long as the guillotine gate is raised enough for you to safely exit with your boat you don’t have to wind it all the way back up to the very top to lock it off, saving several minutes of cardio vascular exertion at the big wheel.
Pretty
The river banks were mostly low today, cow parsley, rapeseed, and many plants standing tall in the sunshine waving in the breeze. Holy Trinity at Denford made for a good photo giving me a break from spinning the wheel.
More tight bridges to negotiate today. The old piers of a former railway bridge sit on a bend at an angle, a beep of the horn was felt necessary just in case. Then under Islip Road Bridge with it’s narrow arches. Just upstream of the bridge is a mooring, too soon for us to stop and a tricksy one to get into.
Through Thrapston, we made note of the Islip Dave mooring which has no land access, but would be a better choice for Tilly than the one by the bridge. It’s places like this that you’d like to be able to explore on foot, but being on a river just pulling in where you’d like isn’t really an option. If we wanted to explore Thrapston we’d need to either be by the bridge or on the EA mooring just out of town.
Titchmarsh Mill
By Titchmarsh Lock we caught last nights neighbour up. He was obviously a local as people stopped to chat with him at the lock, he moors at Middle Nene Cruising club which has a fantastic mill alongside it. Our pamphlet from the EA suggests you’d be able to moor considerately on the downstream lock landing, but we’d be too long for any consideration of this sadly.
Not much further on to Peartree Farm Mooring. I’d been wondering if the moorings would get busier today with it being the start to the weekend, but as we pulled up we were the only ones. This is where Harpers Brook joins the River Nene and the land at the junction has been fenced off to make an idyllic mooring. Space for several boats we chose to moor on the brook to make use of what solar the day had left to offer.
Backing in to moor
Tilly had an explore, trying out several trees for size, many just a touch too wide for good climbing and the lack of nearby friendly cover knocked it down from a Mrs Tilly stamped mooring. There’s a barbeque area with a picnic table. Fairy houses in trees and bird boxes. Lovely, but I think I preferred the views of yesterdays mooring.
Tonights mooring
As the afternoon went on the sun hid behind clouds and the temperature dropped necessitating lighting the stove. We were joined by the widebeam that had been following us and then a narrowboat from down stream, all sitting out around a fire pit as it got dark and started to rain. The last boat to pass was after 10pm, someone holding a torch out front to see the way.
4 locks, 3 wheels, 6.57 miles, 1 sunny warm morning, 1 improvised handle, 1 week to mow a lawn, 2 pretty churches, 1 neighbour caught up, 1 mill, 2 many trees to choose from, 1 pile of ash! 1 grey afternoon, 1 wet night ahead.
We woke on a list, one of those that’s a touch unsettling, thank goodness we have a cross bed so neither of us had fallen out of bed. It wasn’t that bad really, with me at the bow to help spread the weight, Mick reversed Oleanna off the silt with ease.
Water water everywhere
What a lovely day, the sun was out and blue sky cruising lay ahead for us. For much of our journey today we’ve been surrounded by lakes, the water ski lake stretches on for what feels like miles to a retail park. Both horizons seem to have developments going on. The north side new houses and currently the south has fencing around it suggesting more houses.
Ditchford Lock
Today we’d encounter two more types of lock. The first Ditchford Lock which instead of a guillotine gate has a radial gate. Apparently there used to be several more of these along the river, but this is the only one that remains.
The bottom gate is curved and drops in at the bottom of the lock, all operated by fingers on buttons again. We should be keeping an eye out for other locks that have previously had radial gates as they have large downstream recesses that used to house the mechanism.
Caution! Hanging Girder!!
Then the longest reach of river we’ve had so far towards Higham Ferrers Lock, 2 miles! A boat was just coming into the lock from below so I tried to help close the gate behind it. Another boat appeared below too, but the chap said he’d shared with them and they’d said as he was in a rush to head onwards without them, he was a boat mover. Blimey that gate was heavy and took two people to get it moving. It turns out there had been a notice regarding it.
Lovely day
Up the boat came, but only so far. We went to check the bottom gate, the paddles had been left up! No indicator that we could find to show this. The last boat through had possibly been a hire boat (it had passed us this morning), possibly with someone wearing C&RT clothing, all speculation. With the paddles closed the boat came up and we could descend, by now the next boat was waiting below.
Lillian in Higham Ferrers Lock in 2014
Yesterday Mick had had confirmation texts and messages that his phone had been registered for strong stream alerts on the Anglian Waterways. Levels can change suddenly down here as the EA manage water levels. If there is flooding the locks can be reversed, making them into sluices sending water downstream fast. The locks are filled, top gates chained open and then the guillotine gate is raised, being on pins downstream of a lock is not a good place to be! Follow the link below to register for warnings.
Heading towards the next lock we also signed up to the Friends Of The River Nene Facebook group here there are discussions and information about the river, more than you get from the FOTRN website.
Old Station Road Bridge
A bridge had also stuck in our memory, Old Station Road Bridge, sits downstream of the New Station Road Bridge a concrete possibly 1920’s 30’s high bridge. The old bridge comprises of double and triple chamfered arches. Through the centuries it has been widened, Mid C14th and has date stones from 1668, 1829, 1754 and 1922.
Doing our best to line up
Here you take a specific arch and a boat heading upstream had come a cropper coming through, getting stuck at an angle heading them straight off into the reeds. We cut our speed and then slowed as much as we could to tread water, good job the flow wasn’t stronger. They sorted themselves out and came past, we now had to try to line up with the skew arch and from a position we’d not have chosen to be in. Mick deftly turned Oleanna and avoided adding any more groves to the well worn bridge.
Gongoozlers
A pit stop at the EA moorings was had for lunch and to empty our yellow water tank. Then we were off again to Irthlingborough Lock where we had a couple of gongoozlers watching our every move. It’s funny without a car my geography of England is now centred around canals and rivers, proximity to cities and towns only a twenty minute drive away feels like it’s on the other side of the country. The gongoozlers mentioned Stoke Bruerne, a 30 minute drive yet on a boat it would take over 16 hours. For us that would be a 4 day cruise!
Hawthorne Blossom coming out
The river at times now gets quite narrow with trees here there and everywhere, you have to keep your eyes peeled for on coming boats. We passed two more FOTRN moorings, at least one is likely to be stopped at on the way back.
That looks tidier than I remembered it
Upper Ringstead Lock was the place we had our very first night onboard Lillyanne. We tied to the end bollard of the lock landing and hammered a spike in for the bow rope. Today the lock landing looked tidier than eight years ago, but what hadn’t changed was the guillotine mechanism! This one is the first manually operated gate heading downstream.
Wheel
This is one thing I’d not forgotten about the River Nene, the big wheel!
Once unlocked you spin the big wheel round and round and round and……. you’ve got the idea. The wheel may be big making it easier to move the guillotine, but the shear number of times you have to spin it is unrelenting! Thank goodness Upper Ringstead Lock is only shallow. I put one idea into action here, get Mick to drop the guillotine then I would raise it, splitting the arm ache between the two of us.
Lower Ringstead Lock
Soon we were at Lower Ringstead Lock, alongside Willy Watt Marina. This was the very first lock we ever did in Lillyanne and our first Nene lock. We didn’t remember it at all. Was it manual back then? Or fingers on buttons? I think we were so giddy at finally owning our own boat that nothing much was stored in the memory bank.
Looking back
Round a big bend and under the old railway bridge, we were soon passing Woodford Riverside Marina, a little arm off to the west. Well it’s actually two little arms with an island between them. This is where Lillyanne had spent most of her life before we bought her and where we collected her from 8 years and a month ago today. We’d had one trip that day by car to off load our belongings and pick up the keys, Merve the previous owner was a touch twitchy not having received the proceeds of the sale via the broker, he was also twitchy as her licence had expired. We then drove to Crick Marina to leave the car and our friend Lizzie gave us a lift back.
Woodford Riverside Marina
Merve seemed happier this time, hopefully the £1 the brokers send through to check it’s your account before sending the rest of the money (the following week in our experience!) had arrived. It was late in the afternoon, we untied and pushed off down the narrow channel between moored boats to the entrance onto the river. We had a crowd watching us. It was the first time Mick had been at her helm and the turn out under the bridge was very tight, yet he managed it without touching a thing.
St Mary the Virgin, Woodford
Not far 0.25km further on we pulled in at Woodford FOTRN mooring for the day. The bank was uneven for much of its length, a section having collapsed at some point, but we made the best of it and left plenty of room for someone else should they arrive, which they did later in the afternoon.
Not a bad mooring
The chairs came out and we both enjoyed the view as Tilly explored the area. Good friendly cover and the occasional small tree to climb. She however didn’t spot the Yoyo flies that kept her occupied and us amused when we were on the River Avon a few years ago.
Tilly on guard
I had a good catch up chat with David, he’s moved away from Newark now, he has good and bad days, but is doing okay.
