She said I could have ten minutes. Ten minutes!!! That’s a rubbish amount of shore leave. But then I looked at the outside, it was rubbish too!
Hmmmm!
It kind of looked like I’d have to make do with this one, after a while I managed to get across the huge expanse to a tree which went right down to the bottom. It wasn’t really worth sitting there so I waited for a gap in the wizzy seats before I returned. Tom had closed the back doors because this outside just seems to be windy ALL the time!
Eventually She and Tom went out leaving me in charge. I had to keep an eye on the Tom with the little boats and see if the stupid Tom in the super fast boat came past making everything go up and down for no reason what-so-ever. Super Fast Tom didn’t come out but maybe that’s because he was sleeping off his beer cans from yesterday.
She and Tom said that this outside was quite treacherous for them too. On walking to get supplies they had wanted to walk along the river, but the walkway had gone all uneven, thankfully not whilst they were on it. I think I’d be able to get more than just my arm down the holes there.
Tom had been busy with the washing machine so we needed to tie up the tap again. The Tom with the little boats hadn’t had a busy day, but he said tomorrow would be busier. Maybe we would want to tie up a different outside for the weekend.
Comb over trees
It was very blowy at the tap so Tom did a big reverse Andy to push the outside away at the bow. Oleanna had to work very hard to do this, but she managed it in the end, the outside had been spun round and it headed off in the opposite direction.
That’s really big
We passed where the big hole was, I could see what they meant, I think even Tom could get through that hole!
Moving the outside
After a short while She and Tom had to tie up the outside in a jaunty way, another boat was just having a rest before we could tie the outside up in a straighter way. She came inside and gave me three and a half hours and recited the rules which today included not going to the pub or smoking weed. I would just like to inform my readers I do not smoke weed, I only chew the finest blades of grass.
Proper trees
This outside is so much better, the trees are trees and don’t have combovers. The friendly cover is pretty good too.
She topped up the ‘Thank you for coming home’ Dreamie pot. Nice fresh crunchy Salmon and Tuna. That was the main reason for going shopping today, glad She didn’t drop them down the big hole, Peterborough seems to be full of them!
Such a better outside
Ding ding time arrived and I was just a touch busy to notice the time so She had to remind me. Luckily for me She picked me up and carried me over the holes in this outside just before a big group of young Toms arrived. I think they were wanting to have a swim and beer cans, they were quite noisy but moved on when they realised we were inside.
A good vantage place
Tonight’s ding ding was lamb. She and Tom also had lamb, theirs was of the Misterton variety.
Misterton Lamb and veg. Click the photo for recipe
0 locks, 1.51 miles, 1 big reverse Andy, 1 correct sign, 1 wavy footpath, 2 boxes wine, 2 loads washing, 1 full water tank, 17 comb overs, 1 woofer wanting to stay, 1 stamped on mooring, 4 lamb chops, 3 receipts, 1 new bag of Dreamies.
Tilly was given an hour shore leave whilst we had breakfast, with not far to go today it wouldn’t matter if she was a touch longer. As we started to get ready Mick chatted to the chap from the boat next door on NB Mushy P (good name). They compared notes about boating, moorings etc and it turned out we were both heading for water in Peterborough.
We ended up leading the way as the wind caught NB Mushy P out. Approaching the town bridges crossed the river, swans filled the water and two large barges hugged the banks, both bars and restaurants. The long embankment stretched out ahead of us, a boat already at the services, we pulled in behind having to be creative with how we tied up. Mushy P pulled up further ahead and we both waited for the tap to become free.
The chap from NB Bob imparted knowledge to us about moorings, pubs, and shops we’d find on our way. All useful information if you can remember it!
Once the tank was full we reversed back to a space and tied up. We knew Tilly wouldn’t be enamoured. The embankment even though it is a green space with trees is very open so quite risky. She didn’t stay on land long, came back inside to see if the outside at the bow was any better!
It wasn’t!
As it says
Time to do a bit of exploring. Our route took us past The Lido. An Art Deco swimming complex with three heated outdoor pools and sun terraces. We decided it was maybe a touch too windy for such activities today.
Blimey that’s big!
Peterborough Cathedral was a bit of a surprise to us. Neither of us had thought that it would be so big or important.
The first monastery on the site was founded in 655AD, at that time called Medeswell. It was built in timber but later replaced in stone. In 870AD Vikings, possibly led by ‘Ivar the Boneless’, attacked and destroyed the monastery. Between 966-970AD the monastery was refounded as a Benedictine house, a town began to spring up alongside which became known as Peterborough after St Peter, a statue sits high on the west facade.
The cathedral and monastery were attacked numerous times through it’s history, fires have also wreaked havoc. In 1118 a replacement monastic church was begun the start of the present cathedral, it was consecrated in 1238. The original wooden ceiling in the nave still survives, the only such ceiling in the country. It has been overpainted twice still retaining it’s original style and pattern. Today a group of ladies were busy working on a 3m long tapestry celebrating the ceiling, they get very cold feet and have been allowed a big light for when the sun doesn’t shine.
I love ceilings like this
At the end of the 15thC the presbytery roof was renewed and a ‘New Building’ was created at the east end with fine fan vaulting showing off the late Perpendicular style.
Katherine of Aragon, Henry VIII’s first wife was buried in the monastic church, her tomb stone today adorned with pomegranates. In 1541 the former abbot John Chambers was made the new bishop and the abbey church became a Cathedral, was this because Katherine was buried here?
In 1587, 5 months after her death Mary, Queen of Scots was buried in the cathedral, after 25years she was moved to Westminster Abbey. The other day when we were at Fotheringhay I mentioned that the plaque relating to Mary had the dates 1586/7 on it. A comment from Tim Bridge explains this. The two years are because at that time, the year changed on March 25th (Lady Day). So Mary was executed in Feb 1586 by the reckoning of the day, but in 1587 by the way we count the years today. One side effect of this is that it is possible to look in a church register and find the burial in January of a child born in June the same year! Thank you Tim.
Lots of arches
During the Civil War the cathedral was ravaged when it was taken by Oliver Cromwell, nearly all the stained glass, alter, cloisters and Lady Chapel were destroyed and many of the books from the library were burnt .
In the 1880’s the central tower was rebuilt, followed by refurbishment of the central and eastern ends of the cathedral. The fine hand carved choir was added and extensive marble was laid at the high alter.
The West Façade
A fine building all round, except I miss it having the presence from a distance that tall towers give other cathedrals. The west façade is worth a visit itself.
We then had a wander around town, sussing out whether the market would be worth a visit tomorrow. But when we arrived all we found was rubble!
Not quite a market anymore!
The market is currently closed reopening on a different site next month. What a shame as I like a good market. We’ll have to cope with Asda and maybe some bits from Waitrose instead.
0 locks, 1.51 miles, 1 left, 1 full water tank, 0 rubbish, 1 unimpressed cat, 17 trees withcomb overs, 1 cathedral, 1st wife, 1 Queen of Scots, 7 pomegranates, 0 market, 157 swans.
The main reason for not hanging about on the River Nene has been the need to return northwards. Peterborough is the ideal place to do this from as the East Coast Main line trains mostly stop here and at York. When the Rail Sale was on we managed to book tickets for a fraction of the prices normally charged, but only on off peak trains.
That kept me going on my journey north
My first train wasn’t until midday, so there was time for a lie in and a proper breakfast. Tilly was allowed some shore leave, but when she returned the doors were firmly closed, I really didn’t want her following me to the station. You’ll notice some extras on the breakfast plate, white and black pudding, the advantage of shopping at Morrisions, they do gluten free versions!
The station is a twenty minute walk from our mooring which looked a similar distance to the moorings on the embankment in town. Most of the walk can be done through park land rather than along a busy main road. My train stopped at every station north. No boats on the Trent at Newark that I could see, but the pontoon in Doncaster looked really quite full. A fifty minute wait for the train to Scarborough and I was soon walking to Sainsburys to stock up on cleaning items that had been used up and not replaced by lour last lodgers.
Alan and Betty waiting or their Ding Ding
Mick hadn’t had enough time to do much at the house last week on his failed visit to collect our postal votes, which still haven’t arrived (but thankfully the candidate we’d have voted for got elected). This visit was to change the beds, do the washing and clean the house as much as time would allow before I was due in York for a hospital appointment.
The washing machine and tumble drier were worked hard, the last load left to finish washing overnight. Ironing until almost 10pm and all the beds made up ready. Our last lodgers along with using things up and not replacing them had done little in the way of cleaning. This meant no undercoat on the windows this visit!
Tilly added her own thoughts to the list too!
Meanwhile back on Oleanna, Mick had a little list of jobs to work through whilst I was gone. Today he took the kitchen tap to bits to replace a cassette to stop the hot water tap dripping. This is the second time he’s had to do this in five years. Maybe the tap wasn’t such a good find even if its shape mirrors the angle of the tumble home!
Well the lodgers had left it!
The cold water side of the tap didn’t want to come off and now when you turn the tap on on that side it leaks at the base of the unit. More investigation required and YouTube watching.
The dishwasher and shower filters were cleaned out too all whilst Tilly explored the environs.
No trains now until next weekend, so no point in hanging around and anyway we needed to find a mooring where Tilly would be allowed shore leave. We don’t trust her on pontoons especially on rivers where one wrong pounce into the friendly cover could have her swept away.
Water Newton
Another lovely morning as we wound our way round towards Peterborough. What a pretty lock Water Newton is. Church just there, converted mill over there, mown lawns, swans and three chaps smoking weed and dangling their feet over the edge of the lock landing! Not quite the place you’d imagine them to hang out, but the view was worth seeing.
By now we’d been caught up by a chap on a cruiser. I walked ahead to drop the guillotine and set the lock. He was happy to join us if we went into the lock first, he then bow hauled his boat in alongside us having to manipulate his ropes around a twiggy tree. He then went on ahead to set the next lock.
Nosy cows
To think we have travelled along the A1 so many times and not realised that the river lay just so close. Zooming along you’d miss most of the little glimpses towards the river between trees and buildings, but on the water the noise follows you.
Moorings on both sides
At Alwalton Lock our locking partner was just opening the gates for us to enter, perfect timing. I took over from him at the controls where a strategic stick had been used to hold the ‘lower gate’ button in. The gates needed a touch of adjusting so that the white light came on on the panel, then I could lift the guillotine.
Alongside the lock there is an EA mooring and on the other side of the weir cut is a FOTRN mooring, quite pretty but a touch noisy with the A1 so close.
We managed to swap with an uphill boat below the lock, our partner zooming off ahead, if he found somewhere suitable he’d moor up, if not we might see him at the next lock.
Milton Ferry Bridge
Park land draws you in towards Peterborough. The fancy Milton Ferry Bridge and Ferry Meadows. We considered mooring in the Meadows, there’s a 24hrs mooring there, but this would be too far out for our needs in the next couple of days. After an hour of cruising we arrived at Orton Lock the last none tidal lock on the River Nene.
Last lock
Here big sluices line up alongside the lock. Our partner had waited for us and another boat was coming up in the lock, helping to set it for us. Down we came with Charlotte Rose our partner, he pulled in to make use of a nearby Co-op whilst we carried on in towards the city.
Peterborough has several moorings we could use, plenty on the embankment, but we had one in our sights, tucked away off the main river, but would there be space for us?
Rowing lake
The entrance in towards the rowing course isn’t advertised, it brings you alongside the course and then opens out into a large pond, a private basin further along past The Boathouse. As we turned in we could see there was a narrowboat already there, but would there be space for us too? Yes, plenty of room alongside the decking. This will do nicely!
Space!
The decking has seen better days and reminded me of walking on scenic flats, knowing where the structure lay behind a wise thing so as not to put your feet through! With trees alongside and friendly cover Tilly was gone for some time.
Bye!
This evening I have had a photo sent to me on facebook taken yesterday at Wansford. A friend I used to work with uses the tea rooms at Wansford as a pit stop when he’s on the A1. Yesterday he’d stopped for a break and a cuppa, sat at the picnic benches above the moorings and got a photo of the train coming into the station a couple of hours earlier than the one we saw, we’d missed him by an hour and a half!
The Geraghty zoom was joined today from the helm. Camera facing forwards much of the time as we just seemed to be silhouettes. The family accompanied us through Wadenhoe Lock, the moorings by the pub chocka block, maybe our return here shouldn’t coincide with a weekend.
The day has been full of church views. St Michael and All Angels Church at Wadenhoe, St John the Baptist at Achurch, St Andrews at Cotterstock, St Mary and All Saints at Fotheringhay, I’m guaranteed to have missed some!
We’ve had paddle boarders, red kites overhead, locks and more locks.
Heading into Oundle
At Oundle we remembered the day NB Lillyanne had her out of water survey done. We’d come down to meet the surveyor and hear his verdict first hand. She needed blacking, the lights inside sorting along with keeping her well aired to help with condensation. As we left we pulled in at the layby alongside Upper Barnwell Lock and called ABNB to confirm our offer, if I remember rightly a couple of grand off the asking price to pay for the works needed. As we sat there Merve and Elaine came past in Lillyanne so we could confirm the sale with them too. It was the furthest they’d been on her and had really enjoyed the cruise.
A very fine mill
Upper Barnwell Lock has a very fine mill alongside. I think eight years ago it had been a restaurant, today its a kitchen and bathroom show room. Then a very low bridge at 7ft 10″, we’d been warned about it, but fitted through only having to dip our heads.
Lower Barwell Lock has recently had new sensors added to the slackers (paddle gear). I could just see them and as we wound down the slackers a little arm was pushed out of the way, connecting a circuit to allow us to operate the guillotine gate.
We got a glimpse of Cotterstock Hall before the lock and there are some seriously posh houses at Tansor. One of those would do nicely with a mooring.
Does anyone know what these signs are please?
The long straight on the river meant rowers. A chap informed us there were a few boats out on the river and just to ‘BIP’ our horn as we approached, which we did.
Our handy buoy
Many of the lock landings have an overhang, which means Oleanna’s cabin sides are at risk of being scraped. Mick has been deploying our big red buoy just where it’s needed at the stern to keep her a safe distance away. So far the cabin side at the bow has only been in danger once.
Fishing lake behind the trees
Alongside Perio Lock there is a large lake, one of many we’ve passed, where numerous fishermen were set up for a weekends fishing. They waved at us as we waved back, everyone happy not to be in the way of each other.
Setting the lock
Perio Lock was the last for today, another wheel operated lock. The counter weight at this lock has been set incredibly well, at one point whilst raising the guillotine it wanted to raise all by itself! A bit more manual effort was needed to get it right to the top and locked off, but it was nearly a joy to work.
It was built to have its photo taken
The very fine St Marys and All Saints church stands high above the surroundings, immaculte in the sunshine. Fotheringhay was to be our mooring for today, white posts marking where you can moor on a farmers field.
Plenty of of boats have bumped and scraped their way through here
The first stretch has a very high bank and we didn’t fancy it. Through Fotheringhay Bridge which if you are wide is the lowest bridge on the river. Downstream more moorings stretched out. We looked for a lower bank, this was possible but very close to some campers, so we decided to reverse back to join another narrowboat below the castle. The plank was brought out to make getting on and off that bit easier for humans, the four legged crew of course had no problem, well the amount of humans about was a problem at first.
Let’s play Spot the Tilly!
Fotheringhay Castle was the birth place of Richard III on October 2nd 1452. It is also the place where Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots was beheaded. A plaque alongside a large piece of castle rubble gives the date of her demise as 8th February 1586/7, I wonder why the two years?
Only a hair cut today
Time to give Mick a hair cut, I did my best and refrained from there being a second beheading in the castle grounds, although I can’t say the same for Tilly! With fewer people about she had the castle mound all to herself, well maybe a rabbit or two too.
Surveying her kingdom!
She and I had a walk to the very top, a very good view with a breeze. From here I could plot my route down via as many rabbit holes as possible. Storm clouds gathered, the following rain storm didn’t deter Tilly from checking just about every hole she could get inside! Thankfully no large friends were brought home.
We’d woken on another list, this time the other way round, Oleanna most probably just settling in the silt. Our neighbour got going before us and as we pushed out a narrowboat headed straight for our spot as if we’d been keeping it warm for them.
Blue blue sky
What a gorgeous morning! Blue skies surrounded us.
Mowing
A chap sat on his lawn mower spraying out grass clippings as he went, obviously not part of the ‘No Mow May’ brigade. But then as we looked back we could only just about see his house! That’s one big lawn!
A queue!
Woodford Lock was not too far away and we soon started winding down the guillotine gate. A wide beam appeared behind us, it had to tread water until Oleanna was moved off the lock landing. The advantage of being followed on these locks is that so long as the guillotine gate is raised enough for you to safely exit with your boat you don’t have to wind it all the way back up to the very top to lock it off, saving several minutes of cardio vascular exertion at the big wheel.
Pretty
The river banks were mostly low today, cow parsley, rapeseed, and many plants standing tall in the sunshine waving in the breeze. Holy Trinity at Denford made for a good photo giving me a break from spinning the wheel.
More tight bridges to negotiate today. The old piers of a former railway bridge sit on a bend at an angle, a beep of the horn was felt necessary just in case. Then under Islip Road Bridge with it’s narrow arches. Just upstream of the bridge is a mooring, too soon for us to stop and a tricksy one to get into.
Through Thrapston, we made note of the Islip Dave mooring which has no land access, but would be a better choice for Tilly than the one by the bridge. It’s places like this that you’d like to be able to explore on foot, but being on a river just pulling in where you’d like isn’t really an option. If we wanted to explore Thrapston we’d need to either be by the bridge or on the EA mooring just out of town.
Titchmarsh Mill
By Titchmarsh Lock we caught last nights neighbour up. He was obviously a local as people stopped to chat with him at the lock, he moors at Middle Nene Cruising club which has a fantastic mill alongside it. Our pamphlet from the EA suggests you’d be able to moor considerately on the downstream lock landing, but we’d be too long for any consideration of this sadly.
Not much further on to Peartree Farm Mooring. I’d been wondering if the moorings would get busier today with it being the start to the weekend, but as we pulled up we were the only ones. This is where Harpers Brook joins the River Nene and the land at the junction has been fenced off to make an idyllic mooring. Space for several boats we chose to moor on the brook to make use of what solar the day had left to offer.
Backing in to moor
Tilly had an explore, trying out several trees for size, many just a touch too wide for good climbing and the lack of nearby friendly cover knocked it down from a Mrs Tilly stamped mooring. There’s a barbeque area with a picnic table. Fairy houses in trees and bird boxes. Lovely, but I think I preferred the views of yesterdays mooring.
Tonights mooring
As the afternoon went on the sun hid behind clouds and the temperature dropped necessitating lighting the stove. We were joined by the widebeam that had been following us and then a narrowboat from down stream, all sitting out around a fire pit as it got dark and started to rain. The last boat to pass was after 10pm, someone holding a torch out front to see the way.
4 locks, 3 wheels, 6.57 miles, 1 sunny warm morning, 1 improvised handle, 1 week to mow a lawn, 2 pretty churches, 1 neighbour caught up, 1 mill, 2 many trees to choose from, 1 pile of ash! 1 grey afternoon, 1 wet night ahead.
We woke on a list, one of those that’s a touch unsettling, thank goodness we have a cross bed so neither of us had fallen out of bed. It wasn’t that bad really, with me at the bow to help spread the weight, Mick reversed Oleanna off the silt with ease.
Water water everywhere
What a lovely day, the sun was out and blue sky cruising lay ahead for us. For much of our journey today we’ve been surrounded by lakes, the water ski lake stretches on for what feels like miles to a retail park. Both horizons seem to have developments going on. The north side new houses and currently the south has fencing around it suggesting more houses.
Ditchford Lock
Today we’d encounter two more types of lock. The first Ditchford Lock which instead of a guillotine gate has a radial gate. Apparently there used to be several more of these along the river, but this is the only one that remains.
The bottom gate is curved and drops in at the bottom of the lock, all operated by fingers on buttons again. We should be keeping an eye out for other locks that have previously had radial gates as they have large downstream recesses that used to house the mechanism.
Caution! Hanging Girder!!
Then the longest reach of river we’ve had so far towards Higham Ferrers Lock, 2 miles! A boat was just coming into the lock from below so I tried to help close the gate behind it. Another boat appeared below too, but the chap said he’d shared with them and they’d said as he was in a rush to head onwards without them, he was a boat mover. Blimey that gate was heavy and took two people to get it moving. It turns out there had been a notice regarding it.
Lovely day
Up the boat came, but only so far. We went to check the bottom gate, the paddles had been left up! No indicator that we could find to show this. The last boat through had possibly been a hire boat (it had passed us this morning), possibly with someone wearing C&RT clothing, all speculation. With the paddles closed the boat came up and we could descend, by now the next boat was waiting below.
Lillian in Higham Ferrers Lock in 2014
Yesterday Mick had had confirmation texts and messages that his phone had been registered for strong stream alerts on the Anglian Waterways. Levels can change suddenly down here as the EA manage water levels. If there is flooding the locks can be reversed, making them into sluices sending water downstream fast. The locks are filled, top gates chained open and then the guillotine gate is raised, being on pins downstream of a lock is not a good place to be! Follow the link below to register for warnings.
Heading towards the next lock we also signed up to the Friends Of The River Nene Facebook group here there are discussions and information about the river, more than you get from the FOTRN website.
Old Station Road Bridge
A bridge had also stuck in our memory, Old Station Road Bridge, sits downstream of the New Station Road Bridge a concrete possibly 1920’s 30’s high bridge. The old bridge comprises of double and triple chamfered arches. Through the centuries it has been widened, Mid C14th and has date stones from 1668, 1829, 1754 and 1922.
Doing our best to line up
Here you take a specific arch and a boat heading upstream had come a cropper coming through, getting stuck at an angle heading them straight off into the reeds. We cut our speed and then slowed as much as we could to tread water, good job the flow wasn’t stronger. They sorted themselves out and came past, we now had to try to line up with the skew arch and from a position we’d not have chosen to be in. Mick deftly turned Oleanna and avoided adding any more groves to the well worn bridge.
Gongoozlers
A pit stop at the EA moorings was had for lunch and to empty our yellow water tank. Then we were off again to Irthlingborough Lock where we had a couple of gongoozlers watching our every move. It’s funny without a car my geography of England is now centred around canals and rivers, proximity to cities and towns only a twenty minute drive away feels like it’s on the other side of the country. The gongoozlers mentioned Stoke Bruerne, a 30 minute drive yet on a boat it would take over 16 hours. For us that would be a 4 day cruise!
Hawthorne Blossom coming out
The river at times now gets quite narrow with trees here there and everywhere, you have to keep your eyes peeled for on coming boats. We passed two more FOTRN moorings, at least one is likely to be stopped at on the way back.
That looks tidier than I remembered it
Upper Ringstead Lock was the place we had our very first night onboard Lillyanne. We tied to the end bollard of the lock landing and hammered a spike in for the bow rope. Today the lock landing looked tidier than eight years ago, but what hadn’t changed was the guillotine mechanism! This one is the first manually operated gate heading downstream.
Wheel
This is one thing I’d not forgotten about the River Nene, the big wheel!
Once unlocked you spin the big wheel round and round and round and……. you’ve got the idea. The wheel may be big making it easier to move the guillotine, but the shear number of times you have to spin it is unrelenting! Thank goodness Upper Ringstead Lock is only shallow. I put one idea into action here, get Mick to drop the guillotine then I would raise it, splitting the arm ache between the two of us.
Lower Ringstead Lock
Soon we were at Lower Ringstead Lock, alongside Willy Watt Marina. This was the very first lock we ever did in Lillyanne and our first Nene lock. We didn’t remember it at all. Was it manual back then? Or fingers on buttons? I think we were so giddy at finally owning our own boat that nothing much was stored in the memory bank.
Looking back
Round a big bend and under the old railway bridge, we were soon passing Woodford Riverside Marina, a little arm off to the west. Well it’s actually two little arms with an island between them. This is where Lillyanne had spent most of her life before we bought her and where we collected her from 8 years and a month ago today. We’d had one trip that day by car to off load our belongings and pick up the keys, Merve the previous owner was a touch twitchy not having received the proceeds of the sale via the broker, he was also twitchy as her licence had expired. We then drove to Crick Marina to leave the car and our friend Lizzie gave us a lift back.
Woodford Riverside Marina
Merve seemed happier this time, hopefully the £1 the brokers send through to check it’s your account before sending the rest of the money (the following week in our experience!) had arrived. It was late in the afternoon, we untied and pushed off down the narrow channel between moored boats to the entrance onto the river. We had a crowd watching us. It was the first time Mick had been at her helm and the turn out under the bridge was very tight, yet he managed it without touching a thing.
St Mary the Virgin, Woodford
Not far 0.25km further on we pulled in at Woodford FOTRN mooring for the day. The bank was uneven for much of its length, a section having collapsed at some point, but we made the best of it and left plenty of room for someone else should they arrive, which they did later in the afternoon.
Not a bad mooring
The chairs came out and we both enjoyed the view as Tilly explored the area. Good friendly cover and the occasional small tree to climb. She however didn’t spot the Yoyo flies that kept her occupied and us amused when we were on the River Avon a few years ago.
Tilly on guard
I had a good catch up chat with David, he’s moved away from Newark now, he has good and bad days, but is doing okay.
Westbridge Pipe Bridge to White Mills Marina, River Nene
With Frank on standby to be our proxy a phone call was made to Scarborough Council. Mick got to chat to the nice lady who’d helped us eight years ago and through the years had made sure we’ve had the correct forms to be able to vote despite being homeless!
Last bit of canal for a while
Sadly this time she couldn’t help us. She could reissue our postal votes which would automatically cancel the previous ones, but unless one of us went to collect them from the office they would not return in time to be counted in the election. She did check that they hadn’t been returned, either to sender or falsely signed. No-one knows where they are, possibly they will be sat in amongst our post next time one of us goes to do a turn around, delayed in the post. Thankfully we strongly suspect the candidate we would have voted for will be elected, fingers crossed that is the case.
Time to get a move on. We dropped down the last of the Northampton Arm Locks at 10:30 and made our way under Cotton End Bridge the river banks to the west of the bridge overgrown, to the east moorings on large bollards. There would have been space for us here, but above on the arm was a better choice for Tilly, even though she wasn’t keen!
We headed in to Northampton Marina, pulling up on the pump out pontoon. When we bought NB Lillyanne we inherited an Abloy key which has been carried around for eight years. Only having one could be a mistake, one we’d rather not happen. The chap in the office was in the middle of a training course but was happy to sell us a key after we’d shown him our Gold Licence. He also sent us away with a comprehensive map and list of moorings along the river.
Back out on the river we timed it perfectly to arrive at Northampton Town Lock as a narrowboat was just exiting. We asked if we had to leave the gates open when we left, but they didn’t know. Yellow signs on the beams suggested we could leave either end of the lock open, but to lock the other set of gates. Should the river be in flood a red flag is flown and you should not proceed, this was certainly not the case today.
Manual gates at both ends of this, Rush Mills and Abington Lock. The paddle gear easy to wind up and down. Once up a white marker shows at the very top and as you wind them down a marker follows your progress until the paddle is closed.
EA chaps heading back to the marina
At Rush Mills an EA boat was just approaching so I helped them lock up. Below the lock landing has been having work done to it, on other lock landings areas are being left to rewild to help encourage insects and bees.
Abington Lock, now this one we remembered from eight years ago. Lillyanne’s EA licence had just run out so we were doing our best to get her off the river and onto C&RT waters before we were spotted. We did a full days cruise, but hadn’t managed to get as far as we’d hoped in day light. It being April Weston Favell pontoon had looked appealing but shouldn’t be used (May to September it’s a mooring, October to April only to be used when the river is in flood) in the end we moored on the lock landing at Abington, setting the alarm for first light, hoping no-one would see us, they didn’t.
The Washlands
Once through the barrage Northampton Washlands open out, here flood water can be held to limit flooding downstream a barrage at both ends. Hopefully we’ll be able to stop on the pontoon on our way back.
Waterway Routes map showing type of lock gates, lock landing locations and more
So far the locks had been a fairly standard set up with pointing gates (as they are called round here) at both ends, shown on the above Waterway Routes Map as two arrows. But at Weston Favell Lock we had reached our first Guillotine bottom gate, shown with pointing gates at the top of the lock and just a straight line at the bottom. Most of the locks on the River Nene are these type of locks.
These locks have to be left with the top gates closed, paddles closed and the guillotine gate raised fully. Like this they act as a weir, rising river levels come over the top of the gates and can flow out of the lock. On arriving at the lock, using your EA key (Abloy) you unlock the control panel. If heading upstream you bring your boat in and then lower the guillotine behind. Then you can lift the paddles at the top of the lock, some of these can be fierce so caution is required.
Lowering the gate to fill the lock
Once the lock is full open the gate, either exit or enter depending which way you are going. Close the paddles and gates and then empty the lock, no matter which way you are heading. To do this you press the raise gate button until the red light illuminates, this lifts the guillotine just enough to drop the level in the lock, maybe a few inches or a foot. Oleanna gets pulled forward a touch when this happens, but nothing alarming.
Then after a couple of minutes the red light goes out and the green one illuminates, you can then press and hold the raise gate button. This doesn’t sound too bad, in fact on your first lock or two it isn’t that bad, your thumb or finger aches a touch as it takes minutes then a few more minutes to fully raise. By the time you are onto your third lock of the day RSI is starting to set in.
He may be smiling, but I may not after the manual version of the locks!
With the guillotine gate now raised the boat can exit below getting dripped on and you can try to manipulate your thumb into working so as to close the control panel and lock it again. All fun and for those who have been this way before, I most definitely remember the manual versions which are still to come!
At Billings Lock we were following another narrowboat, the lady kindly dropped the guillotine in for us after they had left. They were liveaboards out for a trip from Northampton Marina, ‘Being live aboards you have to get out once in a while!’ the lady said. I asked how far they were heading today, thinking we’d have a locking partner. ‘Just here then we’re turning round to go back’. They must have headed into Billing Aquadrome, a very tight turn by the bridge. We may venture in there on the way back.
Have fun on the Llangollen
The spacing of locks is such that we decided that maybe we should have made a pack up for lunch today. Mick kept us at a gentle speed so that I could make us some lunch and a cuppa without missing too much.
Weir boom
Todays schedule had us mooring near Cogenhoe Lock. Some maps show there to be a mooring near the lock, our old Imray guide suggests mooring on the fields above, but we knew better as this was where we’d considered mooring eight years ago only to find nowhere obvious to pull up. The EA guide suggests ringing to see if there is any space, this must be down the weir arm and looked quite busy, so we’d not bother.
Patiently waiting for the lock to be ready
We then had a choice. Stop at White Mills Marina for the night, or push on to a Friends of the River Nene mooring at Hardwater Mill, possibly another hours cruising. Once we’d dropped down Whiston Lock Mick tried calling the marina, time was already ticking away and if we got a mooring with electricity we’d be able to empty the dirty washing drawer. There was no answer, just a message saying they were closed on Tuesdays. Mick left a message during which someone called him back. Eventually he got through, a lady was manning the phone, the marina office closed. We could moor there for the night £14 and she would see if she could sort electric for us. Brilliant! By now we were only five minutes away.
Sheeps
We turned into the narrow opening, followed directions we’d been given, turn right towards the Ukrainian flag, then head towards the office, pull in on the river side of NB Albert. This we found easily and reversed in, only to find it was a touch shallow.
The very nice lady came and told us where everything was and persevered sorting the electric out for us, £2 we’d see how long that would last us in this new world of higher prices!
White Mills Marina
A quick Cat Health and Safety check. Sadly there was an intermittent busy road close by and a possible ditch that would have stopped our second mate from venturing that far was very dry indeed! So not a natural barrier. I’d rather put up with complaints than not have a complaint ever again from Tilly. So much for moving the outside!
I may have to resort to wine if this carries on
As Tilly was stuck inside I took the opportunity to remove her collar and give her her new wormer. Last years tablet she’d been given seemed to disagree with her, resulting in tremors, so this time the vet gave me a spot on one. Just a dab of wetness on the back of the neck, that’s how they are sold to humans. They think that is fine! It most certainly is not!!! Nobody was touching me after that!
Washing machine was put to use, two loads, a dishwasher load and some electric heating before we headed to bed.
We may now be on exploration mode, but there are other things more important that will dictate what we do for the next week or so. Hopefully we’ll get to spend a bit more time on the River Nene on our return. Today however Tilly and I would be staying put whilst Mick had a day away at the seaside.
Last night he spent time purchasing five day returns, finding the cheapest route via split tickets to Scarborough, totalling £54. Mick gets to do such journeys as he has an old gits rail card. To get a couple of hours in Scarborough it meant him getting on a train at 06:59 from Northampton. He changed at Rugby, Tamworth, Derby, York and arrived in Scarborough at 12:08. His tickets were even more complicated!
A Thank you
The house needed checking over for a change of lodgers, the boiler we’d had problems with needed checking too, but most importantly Mick had gone to pick up our postal votes. Getting them sent on by our lodgers wouldn’t guarantee them arriving in the right place at the right time, but going to collect them from the house a few days before the council election should.
Final mosaic near the lock
When we first moved onboard fulltime Mick had a long conversation with a lady at Scarborough Council about how we could vote from our boat. The lady was very helpful. Every year we had to declare ourselves homeless and register an interest in Scarborough. We then appointed a proxy voter, our friends Dawn and Duncan obliged for us and visited our Polling Station, European Referendum, General Elections, Council Elections. This all worked, we were on the list of special people at the back of the list and our names got crossed off each time. On one occasion Mick headed back to Scarborough from Manchester to vote in person, my vote sadly lost that time.
Today when Mick arrived back at the house however there were NO postal votes waiting for him! It worked for the Police Commissioner last year, why not now! We’d received our Postal Poll Cards weeks ago. All that way and no means of voting. He tried calling the Council, but it being a Bank Holiday Monday the phone remained unanswered.
The bluebells are out
House chores were quickly done, things checked over and he was back on a train at 15:34 to change at the same stations on his return journey arriving back in Northampton at 20:21, empty handed.
The River Nene
Meanwhile Tilly and I had done a bit of cleaning. Meowed at the back door! I’d been out to do some shopping. Eight years ago we’d visited Morrisons, today I first headed to Aldi which is nearer, but very quickly realised the things I wanted they wouldn’t have, so I aborted and headed to Morrisons instead.
There had been a possibility that Mick wouldn’t get back until 9 or 10pm, depending on how the house had been left. So I’d taken the opportunity to purchase some King Prawns, Mick doesn’t like things that eat poo, so they are a solitary treat for me once in a blue moon.
Stirring risotto and prawns
On the offside of the final Northampton Arm lock a family was enjoying a barbeque. Thank goodness there was the lock in between us as their dog seemed to not want passers-by, it came and made that very obvious.
Please move the outside!
Tilly tried persuading me to move the outside to a better one. But all She said was that we couldn’t do that while Tom was in the outside, he wouldn’t like it! I suppose She was right I get all hurumphy when they move the outside a little bit whilst I’m in it and by the looks of things the outside would have had to move a long way to make it any better!
MOVE IT! Tom won’t mind
To while away the afternoon I used up a couple of wonky lemons that I had left over and had a go at a Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil recipe for Lemon Drizzle Traybake. It needed amending to be gluten free and the fact that the suitable tray I have seems to be in Scarborough! The recipe uses rapeseed oil instead of butter so was very easy to make, but the quantity of oil seemed to be a lot and our supplies are a bit short right now. I cut down on the oil, popped it in a cake tin and hoped for the best. After 35 minutes it was cooked, drizzled over with sugar and lemon juice. I just had to wait for Mick to return to sample it.
Lemon Drizzle, click photo for recipe
Tomorrow we’ll ring the Council to see if there is any way we can get a proxy vote at such a late date. We don’t hold out much hope, but it’s worth a try.
0 locks, 0 miles, 5 return tickets, 10 trains, 1 pump still running, 1 dying dishwasher, 1 mini bottle of bubbles, 0 postal votes, 0 boxes wine, 150grams king prawns all for ME, 1 unimpressed cat, 1 slightly cleaner boat.
In need of the services at Gayton Junction we prepared, emptying the wee tank whilst the outlet was on the towpath side. Then we pootled our way to the junction.
What a difference from yesterday! I got sunburnt yesterday, today we could just about see our breath! Layers and long sleeves were certainly needed.
Gayton Junction, which way?
At the junction there was already a boat on the services, but fortunately they had just finished. We pulled in alongside and let two other boats pass before we could swap places and tie up. There was a hive of activity around the service block, the local IWA branch were busy weeding and giving the place a general tidy up. We filled and emptied as required then were ready to push off.
IWA all hard at work
We’ve pulled up at the services here before, but only once been along the Northampton Branch. That was just over eight years ago when we’d just bought NB Lillyanne, she’d been moored on the River Nene and her licence had just run out, so we spent a couple of long days getting her off the river and onto C&RT waters. Quite a rush, not enough time to take much in or write a blog.
Last year was all about seeing family and friends, this year we want to explore again. Today we’d be heading down the Northampton Arm towards the River Nene, Middle Levels, Great Ouse, River Cam etc where we plan on spending the summer. We have our Gold Licence, have joined Friends of the River Nene and The Great Ouse Boating Association. There are different licences to buy, keys and windlasses (that are also called keys), all very exciting!
Fancy swing bridge
But first we needed to stop for an early lunch, there’s nowhere really to stop in the flight of locks down into Northampton so we pulled up opposite Gayton Marina. This is where all the hire boats were aiming for this morning and also where we came to view the first second hand boat we looked at inn 2014, it had too much leatherette for our tastes and really bad storage for a liveaboard boat.
From eight years ago I’ve had this thing that Gayton Marina had to be on the main line of the Grand Union near the junction, every time we’ve passed since I’ve wondered where it had gone! Now I know it wasn’t just a mirage.
NB Caress of Steel came past just as we pulled in, another Finesse boat with space for a motorbike in the tug deck. Then we watched the swing bridge at the entrance swing, all automated, a barrier and flashing light. There was no-one to be seen operating it, do moorers have a fob that they can press to open it? Or is someone watching on CCTV?
Top Lock
Time to set off, with sixteen locks ahead of us before we could stop we needed to get on with it.
We remembered narrow locks, going under the M1. I remembered trying to ride a Brompton up the gravelly track between locks, our lock operation has changed since then going up hill. Today I’d be walking much of the flight three times to set ahead and then let Mick and Oleanna out of the lock above.
What would be different to the locks? There’s always something different on each canal. The beams were wide, easy to cross. Here the handrails on the bottom gates were on the downhill side of them. Would I still be able to push the gates apart to save a walk around the lock? Have they always been like this or is it to put people off stepping across from one gate to the other?
Beep beep!
At the second lock I stood and worked out if I could push the gates from the centre safely holding onto the railing. This actually would be a touch easier to start off with, but to guarantee getting the gate into the recess I would need to change the angle to which I pushed. After a few locks I decided that the angle I was pushing at was not being kind to my knees, so I chose to walk round instead. Thankfully Mick closed the other gate for me with the boat hook, saving a second trip round.
The thick of the flight runs through twelve locks seemingly in countryside, the last one however sitting underneath the M1 near junction 15A. All quite pretty, I suspect the views would have been better if the sun had been out.
A family walked up the flight, crossing over the gates of each lock. They were obviously keen to lend a hand with a gate or two.
Red roof
In the pound below lock 6 I could see a red arc. This turned out to be the roof of a cruiser, the chap on board appeared when we had a couple of locks still to go to reach him. Obviously a single hander, I headed down to lend a hand with gates as he bow hauled his boat into the lock. He said that he’d stopped in the pound overnight and some nair do wells had opened all the paddles and drained the pound, he’d woken up with his boat on the silt.
The bywash was flowing and had got him afloat again, the level still quite low. It took time for Oleanna and the cruiser to pass. We’d left the next two locks ready for him, I suspect he made use of the open gates and then settled back down for another night, waiting for the next down hill boat to leave gates for him.
It won’t go down!
The level below Lock 6 was low. Oleanna ground to a halt exiting. I lifted one of the top paddles to see if I could flush her out. This worked quite quickly, but then the paddle wouldn’t close fully. I managed to force it down a touch, but had to call for Mick to see if he could get it further. Thankfully this worked.
The canal was built by the Grand Junction Canal, with a height difference of 32m between the Grand Junction at Gayton down to Northampton. 17 narrow locks were built to connect the River Nene to the canal network. The first boats arrived at Far Cotton in Northampton on the 1st May 1815, 207 years ago today! However today we wouldn’t be greeted by crowds cheering, it would just be geese crapping everywhere!
Farms were cut in half by the canal, so seven lift bridges were put across so that sheep, cattle and machinery could cross. Today only one such bridge is still fully in tact, just below lock 5, two more sit beside the canal.
Under the M1 are murals painted by local school children. One side depicts the canal through the seasons, the other is a time line of Northampton which is very interesting, bright and jolly. For 100 years the canal was very busy transporting coal, grain and timber, by WW2 road competition took over and trade declined.
A heron flew away from the lock
In 1968 a group of local enthusiasts formed the IWA Northampton Branch, in 1971 the IWA National Rally was held when 650 boats gathered. The branch fought to keep the arm open, objecting to road plans that would affect the route. Today they look after the upkeep of the flight. Mosaics sit near the top gates of each lock and as seen at the top of the arm today work parties keep the thick of the flight trimmed and tidy.
The pounds very full lower down
Once under the M1 the last few locks are set further apart. New housing sits alongside and the amount of reeds increases, this is also something we remembered from eight years ago. Gradually the canal becomes more urban.
Reeds reeds and more reeds
Local boats sat making use of the few rings above Lock 17, but there was space for us infront. We used the last ring and the girders holding the pipe bridge up to moor and moved the geese along taking care not to stand in their pooh.
Last night we had unwrapped the pork joint, dried it off and left it in the fridge to dry out. Before starting the flight I had left it out to come up to room temperature. Once down Lock 15 I turned the oven on, gave the joint a dry off and added some more salt to the leathery rind. Down Lock 16 in it went. By the time we were moored up it had done it’s 30 minutes at gas 7 and could be turned down. The effort paid off as we enjoyed the best pork crackling I’ve ever made along with a quarter of the meat. A good celebration to mark the anniversary of the arm and the start of our exploring this year.
Yummmmm!
16 locks, 6.5 miles, 1 left, 1 full water tank, 1 grey day, 1 left of 7, 34 mosaics, 1 slow boat to Gayton, 1 Tilly not too impressed, 2 hrs 42 minutes, 1 joint of pork that will last us four meals, 18 train tickets booked (making use of the Sale before it ends), 2 tired boaters.
