As Pip is away in Panto land this is Mick writing this post.
On 14th November 2023 a Campaign Cruise to the Palace of Westminster took place to support the Fund Britain’s Waterways campaign. We had been invited to take part on this cruise and we would have loved to have taken Oleanna along. But obviously it was taking part on the Thames which was too far away for us to cruise from our current mooring in Goole. There was however an open invitation to anyone to turn up on Westminster Bridge at the appointed hour of 14:11 to shout and wave.
So I was on the 08:45 train out of Scarborough and arrived at King’s Cross station at 11:50. It was very wet and soggy in London Town. My original plan had been to catch the 91 bus to Trafalgar Square then walk down Whitehall to Westminster. But with the weather being so wet I took the Tube instead. It was still raining when I got there.
Wet Streets
There was a handy Tesco Express where I purchased an umbrella and a sandwich and waited under cover for the rain to stop as was forecasted.
Elizabeth Tower
After a while the rain did stop and I headed off onto Westminster Bridge to take in the view. Many yeas ago I used to work in central London and although I became fed up with the daily commute I never did get fed up of views of the Thames. It is always good to see.
There was already a big tug towing a barge stationed outside the Palace of Westminster along with another Dutch barge type boat and a River Police launch. I was on the north side of the bridge looking out for the first glimpse of the narrowboats to appear under Hungerford Bridge. They appeared on time making their way on the right hand side of the river, avoiding the Uber Boats. They made a fine sight but it would have been better if the sun was shining.
Narrowboats Arriving
In all there were ten narrowboats, some of which we had shared our two previous tideway trips with. Many of the boats had big banners attached: “Fund Britain’s Waterways”. I waved to the familiar faces as they passed under the bridge. Heather on NB Bleasdale shouted “What are you doing in London?” “I’ve come to see you!” was my reply.
I crossed over the bridge as the boats took up station outside the Palace and at the appointed hour of 14:11 horns were blared and flags were waved. The big barge towing tug had a VERY loud horn and we hoped that at least some of the people inside Parliament heard and took time to look out of a window.
Outside the Palace
There were about 30 or 40 other supporters on the bridge and we all waved flags and explained to passers by what was going on and why. After a while the boats turned around and started to make their way back to Docklands.
Boats turning. And my old office in the background
I decided to try to catch them up on an Uber Clipper boat from Westminster Pier. The fare for old fogies like me was £5.20 which I didn’t think too bad. I had to wait about 20 minutes for an eastbound boat so I never did catch up with the flotilla but it was good to see the sights from the river. The boat stopped off at various piers along the way and I was very impressed with the crew’s rope throwing skills.
He never missed the bollard
My old office
Downstream of Tower Bridge
I got off the boat at Canary Wharf Pier and walked up to South Quay to see if I could find the boats. They were just coming out of the West India Dock lock and pulling over to moor up for the evening. I went and said hello to them all and was offered a warming whisky. 4:30 pm, oh well, it would have been rude to refuse! I stayed there chatting for a while then headed off to catch an Elizabeth Line train to King’s Cross and then the 19:00 return back to Scarborough.
South Quay, West India Dock
There may be plans for future campaign cruisers next year, we’re hoping that we’ll be closer with Oleanna and able to join in.
In need of the services at Gayton Junction we prepared, emptying the wee tank whilst the outlet was on the towpath side. Then we pootled our way to the junction.
What a difference from yesterday! I got sunburnt yesterday, today we could just about see our breath! Layers and long sleeves were certainly needed.
Gayton Junction, which way?
At the junction there was already a boat on the services, but fortunately they had just finished. We pulled in alongside and let two other boats pass before we could swap places and tie up. There was a hive of activity around the service block, the local IWA branch were busy weeding and giving the place a general tidy up. We filled and emptied as required then were ready to push off.
IWA all hard at work
We’ve pulled up at the services here before, but only once been along the Northampton Branch. That was just over eight years ago when we’d just bought NB Lillyanne, she’d been moored on the River Nene and her licence had just run out, so we spent a couple of long days getting her off the river and onto C&RT waters. Quite a rush, not enough time to take much in or write a blog.
Last year was all about seeing family and friends, this year we want to explore again. Today we’d be heading down the Northampton Arm towards the River Nene, Middle Levels, Great Ouse, River Cam etc where we plan on spending the summer. We have our Gold Licence, have joined Friends of the River Nene and The Great Ouse Boating Association. There are different licences to buy, keys and windlasses (that are also called keys), all very exciting!
Fancy swing bridge
But first we needed to stop for an early lunch, there’s nowhere really to stop in the flight of locks down into Northampton so we pulled up opposite Gayton Marina. This is where all the hire boats were aiming for this morning and also where we came to view the first second hand boat we looked at inn 2014, it had too much leatherette for our tastes and really bad storage for a liveaboard boat.
From eight years ago I’ve had this thing that Gayton Marina had to be on the main line of the Grand Union near the junction, every time we’ve passed since I’ve wondered where it had gone! Now I know it wasn’t just a mirage.
NB Caress of Steel came past just as we pulled in, another Finesse boat with space for a motorbike in the tug deck. Then we watched the swing bridge at the entrance swing, all automated, a barrier and flashing light. There was no-one to be seen operating it, do moorers have a fob that they can press to open it? Or is someone watching on CCTV?
Top Lock
Time to set off, with sixteen locks ahead of us before we could stop we needed to get on with it.
We remembered narrow locks, going under the M1. I remembered trying to ride a Brompton up the gravelly track between locks, our lock operation has changed since then going up hill. Today I’d be walking much of the flight three times to set ahead and then let Mick and Oleanna out of the lock above.
What would be different to the locks? There’s always something different on each canal. The beams were wide, easy to cross. Here the handrails on the bottom gates were on the downhill side of them. Would I still be able to push the gates apart to save a walk around the lock? Have they always been like this or is it to put people off stepping across from one gate to the other?
Beep beep!
At the second lock I stood and worked out if I could push the gates from the centre safely holding onto the railing. This actually would be a touch easier to start off with, but to guarantee getting the gate into the recess I would need to change the angle to which I pushed. After a few locks I decided that the angle I was pushing at was not being kind to my knees, so I chose to walk round instead. Thankfully Mick closed the other gate for me with the boat hook, saving a second trip round.
The thick of the flight runs through twelve locks seemingly in countryside, the last one however sitting underneath the M1 near junction 15A. All quite pretty, I suspect the views would have been better if the sun had been out.
A family walked up the flight, crossing over the gates of each lock. They were obviously keen to lend a hand with a gate or two.
Red roof
In the pound below lock 6 I could see a red arc. This turned out to be the roof of a cruiser, the chap on board appeared when we had a couple of locks still to go to reach him. Obviously a single hander, I headed down to lend a hand with gates as he bow hauled his boat into the lock. He said that he’d stopped in the pound overnight and some nair do wells had opened all the paddles and drained the pound, he’d woken up with his boat on the silt.
The bywash was flowing and had got him afloat again, the level still quite low. It took time for Oleanna and the cruiser to pass. We’d left the next two locks ready for him, I suspect he made use of the open gates and then settled back down for another night, waiting for the next down hill boat to leave gates for him.
It won’t go down!
The level below Lock 6 was low. Oleanna ground to a halt exiting. I lifted one of the top paddles to see if I could flush her out. This worked quite quickly, but then the paddle wouldn’t close fully. I managed to force it down a touch, but had to call for Mick to see if he could get it further. Thankfully this worked.
The canal was built by the Grand Junction Canal, with a height difference of 32m between the Grand Junction at Gayton down to Northampton. 17 narrow locks were built to connect the River Nene to the canal network. The first boats arrived at Far Cotton in Northampton on the 1st May 1815, 207 years ago today! However today we wouldn’t be greeted by crowds cheering, it would just be geese crapping everywhere!
Farms were cut in half by the canal, so seven lift bridges were put across so that sheep, cattle and machinery could cross. Today only one such bridge is still fully in tact, just below lock 5, two more sit beside the canal.
Under the M1 are murals painted by local school children. One side depicts the canal through the seasons, the other is a time line of Northampton which is very interesting, bright and jolly. For 100 years the canal was very busy transporting coal, grain and timber, by WW2 road competition took over and trade declined.
A heron flew away from the lock
In 1968 a group of local enthusiasts formed the IWA Northampton Branch, in 1971 the IWA National Rally was held when 650 boats gathered. The branch fought to keep the arm open, objecting to road plans that would affect the route. Today they look after the upkeep of the flight. Mosaics sit near the top gates of each lock and as seen at the top of the arm today work parties keep the thick of the flight trimmed and tidy.
The pounds very full lower down
Once under the M1 the last few locks are set further apart. New housing sits alongside and the amount of reeds increases, this is also something we remembered from eight years ago. Gradually the canal becomes more urban.
Reeds reeds and more reeds
Local boats sat making use of the few rings above Lock 17, but there was space for us infront. We used the last ring and the girders holding the pipe bridge up to moor and moved the geese along taking care not to stand in their pooh.
Last night we had unwrapped the pork joint, dried it off and left it in the fridge to dry out. Before starting the flight I had left it out to come up to room temperature. Once down Lock 15 I turned the oven on, gave the joint a dry off and added some more salt to the leathery rind. Down Lock 16 in it went. By the time we were moored up it had done it’s 30 minutes at gas 7 and could be turned down. The effort paid off as we enjoyed the best pork crackling I’ve ever made along with a quarter of the meat. A good celebration to mark the anniversary of the arm and the start of our exploring this year.
Yummmmm!
16 locks, 6.5 miles, 1 left, 1 full water tank, 1 grey day, 1 left of 7, 34 mosaics, 1 slow boat to Gayton, 1 Tilly not too impressed, 2 hrs 42 minutes, 1 joint of pork that will last us four meals, 18 train tickets booked (making use of the Sale before it ends), 2 tired boaters.
