Sadly we could only stay one night on Tilly’s birthday island, we need to keep moving, admittedly not far today.
Sunday morning
But first there was time for Mick to rustle up a breakfast and for us to join the Geraghty zoom. The Basingstoke Canal, flights from Barra and the general state of the country were topics today.
We pushed away the island around 11am, passing our nearest neighbours soon afterwards. I wondered who might be staying in Spring Cottage at the moment (£2,750 a night) an extra £50 a night to include breakfast. Or at the cheaper NT run cottages £896 for three nights, no option of breakfast being included there.
You brought it with you, it’s now lighter, so much easier to take home!
We followed a big hire boat up to Cookham Lock where a volunteer saw both boats in and pressed the buttons for us. Mick had picked up a bag of rubbish on the island so we paused to drop it off at the bins above the lock. Why would you parcel up your rubbish and then hide it behind a tree on an island?! We topped up the water tank as a load of washing spun round in the machine and then carried onwards.
Bourne End can be so sunny, it almost feels like a resort as you glide along the wide water.
Sailing dinghy’s raced back and forth, the wind being in the perfect direction for their course today.
Click photo for details
Another house for sale, with a good length of mooring, only £2,750,000.
We paused at a familiar boat, bipped our horn, but only the wagging tail of a dog greeted us today. Next time we’ll make sure we send a message in advance.
Terraced garden
All the big houses climbing up the cliff and pretty boats moored below.
Round the big bend in the river, we spied space on the EA moorings below Marlow Lock and pulled in. We then nudged along in front of one of several boats with overstay notices on their windows. The route to walk up to the lock takes you round the houses a touch, but does give a great view across to Marlow.
Marlow
Only a volunteer on duty as it was lunchtime. Mick ventured back later in the afternoon to check in with the Lockie and see if it was possible for us to stay for two nights instead of just the one. As it was out of season he gave us permission.
Tilly got busy, bringing a friend inside to the warmth! Luckily it turned out to be easy to catch, but when released in the hedgerow it scarpered so quickly it didn’t see which way it was going and ended up in the river. It did swim, so I’m hoping it found somewhere to climb out.
I put together some photos and words for the Panto programme. They wanted a two page spread about the set design process. Lots of photos and a sentence with each one, I suspect I’ve given them too much.
What a lovely mooring it is here, we’ve only stayed by the park above the lock before which is quite busy, just a shame there is constant nose from the road bridge!
1 lock, 5.16 miles, 1 bag of rubbish, 1 tank of water, 1 load washing drying on the whirligig, 2 nights okay, 4 hours shore leave, 0 island, 7 photos, 7 sentences.
Blue skies greeted us this morning as we pushed away Teddington. This is going to be another trip up stream on the Thames where we keep saying ‘next time’ as we don’t have too much spare time on our hands. We always seem to go up stream on the Thames too, maybe ‘next time’ we’ll come down stream and see things from a different angle, we’ll also save on a bit of diesel too.
We pootled through Kingston, on past Hampton Court Palace, there was space to moor, but not enough time to enjoy ourselves. I wonder if they still sell off their fruit and veg every week?
Up Molesey Lock
Molesey Lock, our first on the none tidal Thames had a lock keeper on duty, we were his fourth boat this morning. On we tootled aiming for about four hours of cruising today, but knowing we’d be a touch short of that due to wanting a suitable mooring for Tilly.
Click on photo for a nosy
Boat houses, big houses. One with a suitable 70ft mooring was for sale. If only we had rich relatives!
Colour coordinated with the rope
A Kingfisher darted along between boats one of several we’d see today.
Open plan and lots of glazing
Plenty of riverside houses are being revamped or started from scratch, most with big windows to appreciate the views.
Bubbles
One property had three sets of bubbles bubbling up from the deep. Was this to keep the duck weed away? Or was it holes in a gas pipe line?
What’s this?
Does anybody know what this thing is? Steps up to it, round like an air shaft?
Rowing
Sunbury Lock was also manned, just the requirement to use bow and stern ropes and to turn your engine off. All the grass cut to perfection and flower beds still showing off some colour.
Maybe they are river huts
Little houses on stilts, looking like big beach huts.
A colourful place to work
Then there was a large pontoon in the middle of the river. The chaps wearing high vis sat about having their lunch break. It looked like there was a drill for collecting samples on the pontoon.
All lined up
We took the route to the north of Desborough Island. Last year we’d moored on the island when it was raining, not a suitable place for Tilly though. Today the moorings here were chocka so we carried on hoping there would be space on the council mooring a distance on.
Brilliant, we were the only boat. Not so brilliant was the large group of school kids heading in our direction! Were they just on lunch of were they skiving? As they hung around all afternoon, admittedly quite a distance from us we assumed they were skiving. This was almost certainly confirmed when they all headed off at school kicking out time!
Pesky kiddies
Tilly wasn’t too sure about it here at first. First there was a woofer that had to be avoided, then lots of screeching kiddies who tried to climb the trees. They were just spoiling it for everyone else, well me! Once they’d gone home for their dingdings I had the place to myself. If it hadn’t been for those pesky kiddies it would have got a stamp of approval!
Just let me get to those trees!
A flurry of panto emails had come through that needed some attention. Then as it was Thursday I put a chicken in to roast, timed to be ready after catching up with the Scarborough Chums. We’ve not had a Chums zoom catch up for what feels like months due to life returning to some kind of normal. Lovely to see people again, a shame some had to be at work. There was so much to catch up with, moving to Scotland, selling houses, buying pubs, a giant cardboard horse and Spanish wedding plans!
2 locks, 9.83 miles, £10,000,000 house, 70ft mooring, 2 many kids, 1 mooring spike, 1 wombled kindling hunt, 5 staying put, but 6 moving to 7 with a 6 inch brail, 1 roast chicken, 1 Sunday on a Thursday.
The water tanks were dealt with before and during breakfast, then we were on our way just after 9am. Back in May we’d been wearing waterproofs along this stretch, in fact we’d got that bit wet when we’d crossed from Salters Lode to Denver, maybe that was the last time it had really rained. Today they were back on, only for the occasional light shower this morning and to help keep us warm.
We passed many a lovely looking house in Upwell. A couple are for sale. The Old Bank House with it’s six bedrooms, double garage and gym for £500,000. The house on Rectory Road we’d spotted three months ago, another six bedrooms dating back to medieval times, a swimming pool, 3 acres, outbuildings and an ironing room! All for £880,000, don’t think the sword collection is included though.
We hadn’t previously been aware of William having connections to the Middle Level!
Apples everywhere
Marmont Priory Lock is now looking very autumnal, apples hang from the trees by the lock cottage. The lock needed filling 58 turns on one paddle, then to empty it I only bothered turning each slacker 50 times, knowing they’d need winding down again!
Now the lower level is that bit wider and deeper, speed no longer left behind on the Great Ouse. We passed the New Pophams Eau and the Twenty Foot River, places waiting for the next visit to explore.
Wind turbines, Grebes and reeds were soon replaced with houses and back gardens with sheds as we approached March.
Found on our prop
We’d heard that when the levels had dropped several boats with home moorings had moved themselves to the visitor moorings in March for deeper water, meaning that there wasn’t much room, we kept our fingers crossed as a stop here was necessary. But thankfully as we rounded the bend in front of the clock tower there was space for three boats our size. Just a shame the prop also got fouled as we came in!
March floral display
First thing was to pick up the other model box which had been sent from Chippy, then see if the box it came in would fit the one I already had to send back to them. The model once unwrapped was slightly crumpled, requiring a bit of shoring up. I’d made this box a few years ago and it seems to be the one that is sent out to designers, so has been used a few times and is now showing it’s use along with being in a slightly squashed box. A bigger box would be needed to send the model box back.
The furthest south they come
After lunch Mick headed off to Sainsburys to stock up on food whilst I paid a visit to Boyes, their furthest south store. Sadly the things I was looking for they did not stock, so instead I headed back across the river to West End DIY. Here I found everything I needed. Some thin timber to help shore up the model box, slightly thicker timber and some mesh to ensure the side hatch will remain a one way hatch in hot weather. They were also in the process of filing the shelves with stock and had a shopping trolley full of cardboard boxes to choose from. Thank you West End.
Back at the boat I adjusted the cardboard to fit the model box and printed off labels for it to be posted back to Chippy. Mick returned with plenty of shopping. There had been wood cat litter which had distracted him from Tilly’s need for Odour control litter. A second visit to Boyes and Sainsburys meant we now have plenty of litter and oil for the next engine service.
Green and red were added to my panto portals, still cream and some gold to go before they’ll be finished. And as always I’ve changed my mind about some of it!
As we headed for bed tonight the local geese started to make a right noise. It looked like two of them were having a serious disagreement, one trying to either rip the others head off or drown it, whilst the other twelve of them all stood round honking ‘SCRAP SCRAP SCRAP!! Sadly no teacher arrived to pull them apart, we’ll see if there are fourteen of them still in the morning.
1 lock, 7.2 miles, 2 straight ons, 3 boats worth filled by the end of the day, 1 bumping hire boat, 21mm x 21mm, 12mm x 12mm, 25mm square mesh, 1 cardboard box, 2 varieties of litter, 1 bored cat, 14 geese, 2 model boxes swapped, 3 hours not enough work done today.
Houghton EA Mooring to Hemingford GOBA Mooring to Houghton EA Mooring.
Last night we decided we’d head back towards Hemingford Grey to moor for the day and our visit to Houghton Mill. We knew where the mooring was and that it existed, where as if we’d have gone up the lock we might have been in a situation where no mooring opportunity showed itself.
Winding
After our cuppa in bed we rolled up the covers headed a short way up stream where the river was a touch wider. Mick then made use of the current and wind to help turn the bow round to face down stream. We pootled our way to the meadow and pulled in where there was maybe a touch too much goose poo, but it would do us.
Tilly checking out our mooring
With breakfast out of the way we set off to walk the mile and a half to the mill. On reaching about a quarter of the way Mick said he’d not got the National Trust cards, would they allow us in just with our booking confirmation email? Possibly, but he turned back to the boat. I said I’d walk onwards, we’d left just about the right amount of time to walk, would we make it in time?
I slowed my pace, took in the wild flowers on the verges. All the thatched roofs had straw finials, some quite amusing. Had Mick got back to the boat by now? Should I quicken my pace again, would we reach the Mill in time for the tour?
Across the field that had been cut yesterday
Mick appeared on the Brompton, I should have carried on walking at a normal pace and not slowed so he could catch me up. I had to quicken my pace now, the mill only open for tours on Wednesdays and the weekend, if we missed our slot then that would be it!
Thankfully we managed to arrive in time to stash the bike somewhere and have a quick comfort break, still with a couple of minutes to spare! Phew!!!
Houghton Mill
In 974AD the Manor of Houghton and the Mill were given to Ramsey Abbey, all the local farmers used the mill and a cut was taken off as payment, a mulcher, for the Abbey. The mill was kept very busy and the Abbey became very affluent. New sluice gates were added to the river to increase water headed to the mill, but this caused flooding in the village. After ten years of campaigning the villagers got their way and the river was returned to it’s old course.
After the dissolution of the monasteries, Ramsey Abbey was flattened, the mill was still seen to be very profitable and was taken over by the crown. Ownership passed to the Earls of Manchester who leased out the mill as a commercial concern.
In the 18th Century there was a rapid development in mill technology. The original mill had had one water wheel this was increased to three at it’s peak. Inside ten pairs of stones milled the flour operated by eighteen people. In 1850 the mill was run by the Brown and Goodman families and was producing a ton of premium white flour every hour. This flour supposedly improved if left for five to six weeks, just the right amount of time for it to have headed down stream to Kings Lynn, round the coast to the Thames estuary and in to London where it would reach the best price!
But in the later part of the 19th Century technology took milling away from mill stones and Houghton just couldn’t compete with steam driven mills. The repeal of the Corn Laws brought in cheaper foreign grain which was milled at the ports to help feed the growing work force of the Industrial Revolution. Houghton Mill moved to milling animal feed and the work force reduced down to two.
A corner showing how the YHA had looked
On the retirement of the last miller in 1928 the mill closed and the water wheels were removed. In 1929 the local council bought the mill, it was soon earmarked for redevelopment. In 1934 Houghton Mill Restoration Committee leased the mill and sublet it to the newly formed Youth Hostel Association, providing accommodation for fifty people. In 1938 the committee managed to buy the mill and then handed it over to the National Trust for £1, the same as the original mill had cost to build.
In 1983 the mill was opened to the public, repairs were made and milling could resume with use of the original stones powered by an electric motor. Millennium funding was then sought to reinstate the water wheel.
Quite a sizable mill
Sadly due to the mill having to close during the pandemic the water wheel was left idle for too long. The wood that sat in the water swelled soaking up the water and the wood at the top dried out. Once they got it started again the balance was seriously off! They were recommended to turn the water wheel as often as possible which had been helping, but sadly right now the wheel is in need of some tlc. The tour was very informative and well worth doing, thank you Sue from NB Cleddau for reminding me to check the days it was open.
A look around the village brought so many more chocolate box cottages and finials. Ducks, boxing hares, I couldn’t stop taking photos!
Hollyhocks
Then a round route brought us down Green Lane where both sides of the road were filled with fantastic Hollyhocks. Wow! We got chatting to a lady who is responsible for a third of them, they are wanting to rename the road Hollyhock Lane. She offered us some seeds, but the seed heads weren’t ready yet, maybe if we stop on our way back we might collect a few and leave them places to cheer up people next year.
Back at Oleanna we quickly pushed off again. The meadow as nice as it was really wasn’t suitable or Tilly with the number of woofers around. We winded and headed back upstream pulling in where we’d left five hours earlier, our end space still empty. In fact we had the island to ourselves for a couple of hours before three more narrowboats turned up, Tilly ended up having to share her kingdom with another black and white cat.
First read
Act 1 of panto was read, props and setting notes highlighted with my neon pens left from #unit21. I did have to stop just as Queen Rat was proclaiming that the panto was over and the audience should all go home, she’d crowned herself Queen of England and wasn’t budging. We watched the news and caught up on events in London. I think real life events may run a similar course to those of Queen Rats in Act 2, but without so many belly laughs. Tomorrow will tell!
Boris’s final sunset?
0 locks, 1.42 miles, 2 winds, 2 cards forgotten, 3 minutes spare, 10 stones, 3 waterwheels, 1 wonky wheel after the pandemic, I blog problem possibly solved, 1 Queen about to loose her thrown, 1 silent Whittington singing for the future, 1 country waiting.
