Road Trip Day 6

Time for us to turn around, after all there wasn’t much further west we’d be able to go. Maybe northwards would have been nice. We’ve a friend on the Isle of Skye, but that would have taken us at least another four days there and back and we’d already been away from Tilly longer than ever and with the boat paint possibly due to start soon we didn’t want to be too far away to make a trip to Redhill should we need to.

However, the weather was a touch inclement overnight, even more Scottish than yesterday. We’re accustomed to wind and rain on the boat, occasionally sideways rain at the house can be noisy, but last night there must have been some squalls come over Tayvallich. This morning Morag reported that there was snow on the fells when she’d been out with Fig first thing.

We left Morag in her idyll retreat, waving goodbye with plans to meet up later this year and maybe early next year too, there are big birthdays to celebrate after all.

Would we find a window of weather long enough to explore Crinan?

Back along the passing place road. A sign saying there were red squirrels. No chance we’d see any by the road, they’d be too timid. A bend to the left and there scurrying along tree branches was not one but two of our tuffty eared friends. We paused the car, I aimed the camera backwards rather than reversing to the blind bend. Would I have caught them? Two photos out of ten, not bad but not brilliant. Wish we could have stayed longer, but we were at risk of causing a crash!

Back at a bigger road we took the steep turn to the west, going round a marina on the canal, sailing boats, no narrowboats. Then a few wiggles, then down quite a steep hill back to sea level and Crinan.

Here a marina/chandlers sits on the side of the water, round the bend a 1930’s hotel and then the sea lock from the Crinan Canal, we pulled in, the sun almost showing it’s face, we had hope.

Blimey it was windy though and COLD!

Crinan used to be called Port Righ (Kings Port). In 1793 two canal routes had been considered, one surveyed by James Watt the other by John Rennie. Rennie’s route won and an act of parliament gave permission for the canal. In 1801 the canal opened, two years late. Herring boats arrived, there was a trade in eggs, fish, timber and grain all of which would bring in revenue. It took until 1809 for the reservoirs to be complete so the canal had a reliable source of water.

By 1839 the canal was busy. Boats travelled from the Isle of Skye along the 9 mile long canal from Crinan to Ardrishaig to the Firth of Clyde, cutting out the need to go round the Mull of Kintyre. 1847 saw Queen Victoria pay a visit, tourists from Glasgow soon followed. By 1896 proposals for a wider, deeper canal were put forward, a ship canal, locks operated by hydroelectric power, but this never came about. Taken on by the Ministry of Transport the canal was given new locks and had a new reservoir in the 1930s, only for World War 2 to come along, lights along the canal had to be put out for fear they would lead bombers in towards Glasgow.

Across the sea lock and up to the first lock on the canal proper. Here the pound was drained, Scottish Canals were busy rebuilding the banks before the next lock. A track down into the pound had diggers and dumper trucks, lots going on, the canal closed until the end of April. Here we could see how deep the pound was, not much detritus in the bottom. The canal has 15 locks and 7 moveable bridges. On the Scottish Canals the locks tend to be worked for you, I did wonder if our key of power would work on the control box, but now wasn’t the time to give it a go!

A walk round to look at the sea/loch it’s a bit hard to know which around here! I didn’t venture too close to the edge as the wind was so strong.

Morag had mentioned there were toilets here, we found them a little up the hill. By the time we came out any sign of sunshine had vanished and sleet was horizontal! Time to run to the car and get a move on.

We paused close to the summit of the canal, hoping for a walk, but the sleet still came down. If we’d had a flask of coffee we could have sat, steaming up the windows looking out towards what was once the Linnet Shed for the passenger boat The Linnet.

Another pause in Lochgilpead to stock up on lunch bits for Mick then back around the lochs, high up on the fells an obvious snowline was visible. Lunch was had in the layby we’d used on the way west, as we pulled in the fell tops shone in the sunshine, but by the time we’d got settled and the camera out dark clouds had descended again, most probably adding to the layer of snow.

I’d not noticed Inveraray Castle on the way out, but going over the bridge in front of it, it stood out. Grey blue as if it was in a Disney film, sadly the next layby wasn’t useful for photos, the best place being on top of the bridge, not a safe place.

We opted to drive down the side of Loch Long to reach our next destination. This took us through Coulport another Navy Base where Trident Missiles are stored. Down onto Shore Road through Cove where very large houses stand back from the waters edge. Round the southern edge of the peninsula with views across to Gourock from Kilcreggan.

Christine and Mick moved to Kilcreggan about four years ago, I used to work with Christine at the SJT in Scarborough, she left a few months before I did and moved south. We’ve managed to meet up a couple of times when we’ve been near to Worcester. Now we got chance to see their new (to them) house. Just walking into the dinning room with the hatch open gave us a glimpse of their view across the water. Wow! By far the best view of our holiday and a view that kept them captured when they came to view the house for the first time.

A tour of the house, Mick has been busy, the latest project working on their winter living room which has a secret door which opens up onto the annex, which they hope will provide accommodation for friends when they come to stay.

A cuppa with a slice of extremely nice (if you knew Christine and her baking skills this would be no surprise) Banana cake, a WI recipe that Christine had improved!

A walk from Peaton Hill Conservation Reserve took us up onto the tops for a view over the lochs below, thankfully the sleet and hail held off.

Lots to chat about and a visit to the Creggans Bar for fish and chips, I happily gave up my mushy peas to Christine, there’s nowt so queer as folk! Pudding was back at the house away from woofing woofers in the pub, another Christine bake, clementine cake with a glass of wine.

Another lovely day in Scotland.