Category Archives: Scotland

Furry Purry Cat. 26th March

Road Trip Day 7

There were many boats in the loch this morning, mostly battleship grey. What a fantastic view to wake up to every morning. Christine made us scrambled duck eggs and bacon for breakfast, followed by some lemon curd on toast. This was lemon curd left over from making a wedding cake last weekend for Ed, Mick’s son who works for Finesse, our boat builders.

Before leaving, I had to have a look at Christine’s glass workshop. She makes beautiful items from fused glass and sells them at the local post office and at craft fairs in the area. Time for goodbyes. Thank you for the remainder of the lemon curd, one of my favourites.

Car packed for the last time we pulled away, only to pull in a short distance on, it was time for me to take over the wheel. Today there were many miles to cover, Mick said he was happy to drive it all, but that seemed daft, after all we’d paid extra for me to be a second driver. I’ve not driven for at least eight years and then only on two days, prior to that it was another four years, I think. After Mick’s stroke last year he wasn’t allowed to drive for several weeks, it was really about time I sat behind the wheel again.

I’d avoided driving on the wiggly winding roads, and motorways. Just bog standard A roads would be wise for a first outing, maybe I’d drive to our first break, then let Mick do the motorway. Have to say it wasn’t as daunting as it was eight years ago when I had to drive from Manchester to Ipswich and back on my own. Then I’d found it scary getting up to speed on motorways, far more used to travelling at 3 miles an hour and having a good 50ft ahead of me on the boat. Having six gears was a new thing today. Getting the seat set for me was interesting, was I at a suitable height distance from the pedals? Or was I just quite tense about the whole thing? I drove us to the first motorway section near Sterling Castle, maybe not as fast as Mick would have. A good start, just need to find more opportunities for me to sit behind the wheel, not so easy when you don’t have a car.

This was our last day of holiday, there was one place on our list we needed to visit before we left Scotland. This of course was the Kelpies.

The drive east took us around 1 hour 50 from Christine and Micks, the last section through major road works. Two car parks to choose from, we opted for the free one and a bit of a walk along the side of the Forth and Clyde Canal. The canal was empty, quite a few traffic cones in the bottom and a scooter visible.

The 100ft high horses heads had been visible from the motorway, now they loomed ahead of us. 1:10 moquettes of the sculptures sit by the visitors centre, these a work of art in themselves. The final pieces were scanned from the moquette then cut from steel and bolted together, unveiled in 2014. They are surrounded by a watery moat and between them is Kelpies Lock 1A, on the newest stretch of the Scottish Canals. The horses represent the heavy horses that once pulled boats and cargo along the towpaths of the Forth and Clyde and Union canals in their heyday.

**Moquettes and the real Kelpies along with our lunch**

The horses were designed by artist Andy Scott. The moquettes hand crafted using thousands of steel segments. When completed, they were scanned and scaled up to the full size. They are quite incredible, huge sheets of steel with square corners and holes bolted together to make up such majestic, strong creatures. I think the only real curves on them is their eyes.

Mick enjoyed a pork and haggis sausage roll whilst my gf options were limited, a bowl of luke warm cheesy chips. Then it was time for us to start to head back southbound. Our options for routes: head back westwards to retrace the mostly motorway route, head east towards Edinburgh and then down the A1 and the North Sea coast, cut the corner and go through Coldstream. In the end we opted for the A1 with sea views most of the way and the Tyne Tunnel. The last time I did this journey was after opening a show at the Edinburgh Festival driving through the night to get to opening night of an Esk Valley Theatre show in Glaisdale the next day.

As we drove we kept an eye on petrol prices, would the next garage be cheaper, should we find a supermarket? In the end we opted for a price that wasn’t too alarming, had a comfort break and finished off the yummy banana cake Christine had given us. Mick valiantly carried on driving us back to Scarborough, picking up a Chinese takeaway from a place that had been recommended to me by friends who are also gluten free. Sadly we maybe didn’t make the best choices and understanding the lady with a very strong Hong Kong accent was a little hard, she had difficulty understanding us too. Next time we’ll think about it more before ordering.

Back at the house our lodger was at work. I stuck my head up against the bay window setting the security light off. This prompted our guard cat to hop onto the chair to see what was happening. If a cat could smile, Tilly would have had a broader grin than the Cheshire Cat.

No telling off, which was a surprise, just requests for lots of head nudges strokes and once we’d eaten I was pinned to the sofa by a furry purry cat. I think she’s very pleased we’re home.

We’ve had a great holiday, thank you to everyone who we stayed with, it was great to be able to spend time with you all. Also a big thank you to Vicky who fed and looked after Tilly so well for us, saving her having to go to cat prison for a week which would have meant two car journeys for her.

Will we be transitioning to being motorhome owners to explore different parts of the UK as lots of boat owners seem to? The answer to that is …. no, I doubt it very much. I suspect we’ll try to travel a bit more in the winter, but we’re far from being bored of boating. We have plans in the embrionic stage for winter next year, but that all depends on various things coming together in time. We’ve our fingers crossed it will come off, but many aspects are nothing we can control. We have put in a request that a frequent lodger gets at job at the SJT so she could look after Tilly for us for longer than just one week, we’ll see if that comes off.

0 locks, 0 miles by boat, 753.4 miles by road, Fiat 500, 2 drivers, 6 nights away, 1 sister, 3 friends, 1 wheel, 2 horses, 2 squirrels, 76 miles by road rather than 35 by crow, 5 mine sweepers, 1 silent woofer, 2 60ths on the horizon, 2 yummy cakes, 3 portions fish and chips, 1 beautiful house, 1 mass of pink scaffolding, 1 barn, 3 canals, 1 pleased cat, 1 stroke allowed to Vicky, 2 boaters still with weeks to wait, 1 Easter getting in the way!

White Tops And Red Tails. 25th March

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Road Trip Day 6

Time for us to turn around, after all there wasn’t much further west we’d be able to go. Maybe northwards would have been nice. We’ve a friend on the Isle of Skye, but that would have taken us at least another four days there and back and we’d already been away from Tilly longer than ever and with the boat paint possibly due to start soon we didn’t want to be too far away to make a trip to Redhill should we need to.

However, the weather was a touch inclement overnight, even more Scottish than yesterday. We’re accustomed to wind and rain on the boat, occasionally sideways rain at the house can be noisy, but last night there must have been some squalls come over Tayvallich. This morning Morag reported that there was snow on the fells when she’d been out with Fig first thing.

We left Morag in her idyll retreat, waving goodbye with plans to meet up later this year and maybe early next year too, there are big birthdays to celebrate after all.

Would we find a window of weather long enough to explore Crinan?

Back along the passing place road. A sign saying there were red squirrels. No chance we’d see any by the road, they’d be too timid. A bend to the left and there scurrying along tree branches was not one but two of our tuffty eared friends. We paused the car, I aimed the camera backwards rather than reversing to the blind bend. Would I have caught them? Two photos out of ten, not bad but not brilliant. Wish we could have stayed longer, but we were at risk of causing a crash!

Back at a bigger road we took the steep turn to the west, going round a marina on the canal, sailing boats, no narrowboats. Then a few wiggles, then down quite a steep hill back to sea level and Crinan.

Here a marina/chandlers sits on the side of the water, round the bend a 1930’s hotel and then the sea lock from the Crinan Canal, we pulled in, the sun almost showing it’s face, we had hope.

Blimey it was windy though and COLD!

Crinan used to be called Port Righ (Kings Port). In 1793 two canal routes had been considered, one surveyed by James Watt the other by John Rennie. Rennie’s route won and an act of parliament gave permission for the canal. In 1801 the canal opened, two years late. Herring boats arrived, there was a trade in eggs, fish, timber and grain all of which would bring in revenue. It took until 1809 for the reservoirs to be complete so the canal had a reliable source of water.

By 1839 the canal was busy. Boats travelled from the Isle of Skye along the 9 mile long canal from Crinan to Ardrishaig to the Firth of Clyde, cutting out the need to go round the Mull of Kintyre. 1847 saw Queen Victoria pay a visit, tourists from Glasgow soon followed. By 1896 proposals for a wider, deeper canal were put forward, a ship canal, locks operated by hydroelectric power, but this never came about. Taken on by the Ministry of Transport the canal was given new locks and had a new reservoir in the 1930s, only for World War 2 to come along, lights along the canal had to be put out for fear they would lead bombers in towards Glasgow.

**Works on going, just look how deep it is!**

Across the sea lock and up to the first lock on the canal proper. Here the pound was drained, Scottish Canals were busy rebuilding the banks before the next lock. A track down into the pound had diggers and dumper trucks, lots going on, the canal closed until the end of April. Here we could see how deep the pound was, not much detritus in the bottom. The canal has 15 locks and 7 moveable bridges. On the Scottish Canals the locks tend to be worked for you, I did wonder if our key of power would work on the control box, but now wasn’t the time to give it a go!

A walk round to look at the sea/loch it’s a bit hard to know which around here! I didn’t venture too close to the edge as the wind was so strong.

Morag had mentioned there were toilets here, we found them a little up the hill. By the time we came out any sign of sunshine had vanished and sleet was horizontal! Time to run to the car and get a move on.

We paused close to the summit of the canal, hoping for a walk, but the sleet still came down. If we’d had a flask of coffee we could have sat, steaming up the windows looking out towards what was once the Linnet Shed for the passenger boat The Linnet.

Another pause in Lochgilpead to stock up on lunch bits for Mick then back around the lochs, high up on the fells an obvious snowline was visible. Lunch was had in the layby we’d used on the way west, as we pulled in the fell tops shone in the sunshine, but by the time we’d got settled and the camera out dark clouds had descended again, most probably adding to the layer of snow.

I’d not noticed Inveraray Castle on the way out, but going over the bridge in front of it, it stood out. Grey blue as if it was in a Disney film, sadly the next layby wasn’t useful for photos, the best place being on top of the bridge, not a safe place.

We opted to drive down the side of Loch Long to reach our next destination. This took us through Coulport another Navy Base where Trident Missiles are stored. Down onto Shore Road through Cove where very large houses stand back from the waters edge. Round the southern edge of the peninsula with views across to Gourock from Kilcreggan.

Christine and Mick moved to Kilcreggan about four years ago, I used to work with Christine at the SJT in Scarborough, she left a few months before I did and moved south. We’ve managed to meet up a couple of times when we’ve been near to Worcester. Now we got chance to see their new (to them) house. Just walking into the dinning room with the hatch open gave us a glimpse of their view across the water. Wow! By far the best view of our holiday and a view that kept them captured when they came to view the house for the first time.

A tour of the house, Mick has been busy, the latest project working on their winter living room which has a secret door which opens up onto the annex, which they hope will provide accommodation for friends when they come to stay.

A cuppa with a slice of extremely nice (if you knew Christine and her baking skills this would be no surprise) Banana cake, a WI recipe that Christine had improved!

A walk from Peaton Hill Conservation Reserve took us up onto the tops for a view over the lochs below, thankfully the sleet and hail held off.

**Action shot of fish and chips with Christine and Mick**

Lots to chat about and a visit to the Creggans Bar for fish and chips, I happily gave up my mushy peas to Christine, there’s nowt so queer as folk! Pudding was back at the house away from woofing woofers in the pub, another Christine bake, clementine cake with a glass of wine.

Another lovely day in Scotland.

Quite Scottish. 24th March

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Road Trip Day 5

Morag was out taking Fig for a walk when we got up to have breakfast. The weather was really quite Scottish, but the radar suggested there might be a few breaks in the rain, we kept our fingers crossed as we really wanted to see some more of the area other than just down the road.

**Fig likes to show off his toys around the kitchen**

Once fed watered and Fig had been walked, we all hopped in Morag’s car to head off and explore. I haven’t driven for around eight years, just the way things have happened over the years with hiring cars and getting insurance to cover the hire companies excess insurance. But Morag held off longer than that, thirty four years. Living in such a remote place, she lasted three years before buying an electric car from someone in the village who was upgrading. There is public transport, a bus that runs three times a day, only one of them linking up to another bus at Lochgilphead, so having more options of transport became important. It being an electric car means she can run it from her solar panels, so she’s also not reliant on petrol.

We headed back into the village and then turned south and drove to near the end of the most westerly peninsula to Keillmore where we left the car and walked round the end. Fig was on his lead as there were sheep about, no lambs as yet in this part of the world. The weather was just about right, continuing to be atmospheric, damp, windy, misty and quite cold.

**Just needs a roof and a few triple glazed windows**

We followed the road round, passing an old barn, ripe for development but with a cross across its door. A short distance on was a white washed cottage with a barn conversion next door. Apparently on warm summers evenings the owners sit out in front of their house enjoying a glass or two whilst the sun sets.

**Quite a place to live overlooking Jura**

It all conjured up my early life idyll, owning a thick walled cottage on an island, with views out to sea, spending my days sitting in a deep window seat with a log fire crackling in the back ground, watching the seasons pass. Morag has almost achieved that.

Past the house was a small stone wharf, angled against the sea. Here sheep drovers from Jura would bring their sheep to the mainland, landing against the wharf no matter what state of the tide. Mick checked it out as a possible mooring for Oleanna, a couple of large mooring rings quite a distance from the water, quite a rocky approach to it too. Back in 2021 I plotted a fictional route to bring us to Scotland, beaching on beaches, sheltering in harbours, it didn’t get us this far though, ending in Helensburgh. Maybe one day I’ll work out how to get us this far west.

Sheltered slightly from the wind back on the east side of the peninsula is Keills Chapel, surrounded by a stone wall to keep the sheep out. It is a typical stone built chapel from the 13th century. Inside it contains a collection of late medieval west highland grave slabs recovered from the churchyard and a 7th Century cross which formerly stood 50 yards to the north west. The few windows have perspex in them to keep out the gales and a new looking roof gave us good shelter.

We then walked along the causeway that joins to the next peninsula, tarmacked, but you can see where the sea has eroded it beneath. A Whopper Swan sat in a field, the locals wondering if it had lost its partner. Apparently otters swim nearby and bask on the rocks, none visible today as there was no sun to bask in!

Back to the house to warm up a touch with some very tasty soup. Morag and I left Mick to have some down time and walked across the village to visit her 90 year old Dad. I think I last saw him at a motorway service station about 35 years ago, he’s changed quite a bit since then. It was good see him and to meet his wife, Morag’s step mother who is also called Morag.

Morag and I caught up on plenty more news as we walked back and chatted about our future plans. The remainder of the afternoon was spent sat in front of the log burner knitting. Morag had a committee meeting about the village hall to attend, when she was back we sat down for some gnochi fish pie accompanied by several glasses of wine, very tasty.

**A day to try out my pair of Sockathon Socks**

The evening was finished off by watching Pina, a documentary film about Pina Bausch a German dancer and choreographer who made a significant contribution to neo-expressionist dance, her work had a influence on dance from the 1970’s onwards. She died in 2009 from lung cancer five days after she’d been diagnosed and the film is a tribute to her from the dancers she worked with. A fascinating film.

Another good day in Scotland.

Lochs and Locks. 23rd March

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Road Trip Day 4

Time to move on, time to say goodbye to Anne and Alasdair until later in the year. The sun was almost out as we reversed off their drive. First stop was Morrisons to top up on petrol, where we were headed the price was guaranteed to be higher. We also picked up some bits for lunch, Mick a sandwich, me some spreadable cheese and salami to go in some bread I’d brought with me.

Which route to take? We opted to drive along the sea front and along the side of Gare Loch, an uppy downy road that passes Faslane and HMNB Clyde. Armed officers stood on a grey ship, no idea if any of the submarines were in. More than 6500 civilians and service personnel work there, google shows a Greggs, so they’ll all be living off sausage rolls.

Along the side of Loch Long on the A814 to join the A83, a faster road with fewer ups and downs and twists and turns. We saw Lochs, Glens, Fells small patches of snow left in tucked away recesses. We passed the Rest and Be Thankful, stretches of the road are being worked on to improve drainage and fencing as the road is prone to landslides. Along the side of Loch Restil high up then back down to sea level to drive along the side of Loch Fyne passing what we thought might be Oyster beds.

Up ahead was Inveraray, a possible lunchtime stop, certainly a comfort break. We pulled in facing Inveraray Church and walked round to the pier to make use of the shore based facilities. Here we took note of how much it would cost to moor Oleanna for a visit, £25 per 24 hours as she’s over 9m long.

Most of the parking was payable, so we opted to not visit the sweet shop and carry on a little while, there was bound to be a layby somewhere we’d be able to stop for lunch. Well that’s what we thought as the road proceeded to cut across a headland, the loch vanishing for a while. But then near Furnace a long layby with a Loch view, we pulled in, as did others, to enjoy our lunch.

On to Lochgilphead, here we paused to get some cash at the Post Office. Then a turn towards the north on the A816 right alongside the Crinan Canal. We’d thought about a walk along the canal, but it was raining now. Maybe it would brighten up as we drove, but it didn’t!

We passed locks water cascading over the bottom gates. Then the dark stone sided channel on low pounds. Blimey just how deep is the Crinan Canal normally? You wouldn’t be able to stand up if you fell in here! The canal is currently closed for maintenance until the end of April, so we’d not see any boats go through locks today.

**A nice house over looking the canal £260,000**

As the main road carried on north to Oban, we turned off onto a smaller road still hugging the canal. At Bellanoch a swing bridge sits over the canal taking the road northwards again, we stayed on our westerly course, turning onto a road with passing places, climbing over the fells, passing more lochs then down into Tayvallich our destination for the day.

Mick asked me if I knew Morag’s address. Well it’s just the name of her house and the village, luckily when she first moved here I’d had a good nosy on Google maps and found her house, so I knew which way to go as we turned away from the natural harbour of Loch a’ Bhealaich.

Morag is an old school friend of mine, she moved to Scotland around four years ago to a place she’s been coming to since she was a young child on holidays. Her dad has lived nearby for many years.

Time to meet Fig her dog, a very well behaved woofer, in fact we never heard him woof once! A tour of Morag’s house, then a walk over the other side of the peninsula to look out from Carsaig towards Jura all whilst Fig swam to retrieve a ball. What a wonderful place to be. What a difference from Morag’s flat in south London!

Lots to catch up on, a walk to the village shop followed by a veggie curry before Morag headed out for the evening. She goes Scottish dancing with a 89 (?) year old neighbour and her friend who is 85. We were quite happy to keep her sofa warm in front of the log burner watching The Other Bennett Sister and as we enjoyed Small Prophets, it was time to get Mick to watch a few episodes of Detectorists.

Another lovely day, just a shame about the rain.

Over The Top. 22nd March

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Road Trip Day 3

Breakfast followed by the Geraghty zoom. We tried using two laptops for the zoom, but sadly the sound echoed so we all got cosy on a sofa to chat to everyone elsewhere. As I’m writing this a week later, the subjects we discussed have mostly slipped my mind, although the Romans and Hadrian’s Wall were discussed.

**Gates and lamp posts along the street give away the designer**

A ten minute walk from Anne and Alasdair’s house is Hill House a Scottish National Trust property which our English membership cards gave us free entry. Just walking in through the gates from the road you could see who had designed the house, Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

When built, Mackintosh wanted to use a modern render, so roughcast cement was used over brickwork and red sandstone, the underlying construction materials not of high quality. However, the cement wasn’t the best at keeping water out and being in Helensburgh there is a large amount of precipitation! Over the decades the house has grown increasingly damp and something needed to be done, so a ten year (now possibly 15) conservation programme started in 2019. The render has mostly now been removed, and the building is being left to dry out. A decision on what material will replace the render is still to be made. Should it be something from the era the house was built in, or should the latest and best waterproof material be used, possibly something Charles Rennie Mackintosh would have chosen should he be alive today?

A box, or chainmail cage has been erected around the house, so that the render could be removed and then the building would be able to gradually dry out protected from the elements by the box. This means that there are walkways all around the building giving you views from above the house, it was really quite interesting seeing things that only builders would have seen.

Through the modern ebonised wooden visitors centre/shop/cafe we walked into the house, welcomed by a friend of Anne and Alasdair’s. The dark dark wood lit from Mackintosh lanterns with squares and circles with pink/purple stained glass. Wow!

A guide came past with a key to open up a desk in the drawing room. I quickly headed through to see what was to be revealed. Almost chinoiserie in style the cupboard was opened up to reveal squares of mother of pearl and a beautiful backing which glinted in the light from a phone. Stunning.

Now it was time to take time to appreciate the interior of the house. Dark due to the box construction outside and some of the windows having been covered over for protection, we didn’t really see the rooms how Mackintosh had intended, yet they didn’t disappoint. A man for great detail with everything, his design showing through on items of furniture, windows, fireplaces, lanterns, carpets, stair rails, beds, curved niches in bedrooms. Even in the servants areas hearts had been cut in cupboards and the square motif continued on.

The library shelving had symbolic blades of grass, tulip stems reaching to the tops of the woodwork where they opened with a open book. The house, commissioned in 1902, was built for Walter Blackie, a Glasgow book publisher. Squares on part of the shelves pull out to create a small writing desk, everything thought out.

The Hill House is considered to be Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s domestic masterpiece. Walter Blackie commissioned the up-and-coming architect and artist Margaret Macdonald, who worked collaboratively to create almost everything.

Back in the drawing room, white or cream, hard to tell in the lighting, every corner had been considered. A mosaic fireplace with pink/purple insets, the fine curves of some tiles likely to have been ground rather than cut. This was a room that so needed the full natural light to appreciate it and warrants a second visit when the cage is gone and the render replaced. In one corner of the room sat a chair from a very different world. This was Mrs Blackie’s armchair, she insisted on having a comfy chair to sit and read in, rather than a design masterpiece. Don’t blame her really!

The staircase, ebonised with lanterns, woven carpet and stained glass, exquisite. Up to the bedrooms. Mrs Blackie’s room white/cream again with Mackintosh roses, wonderful cupboards. Can you tell I liked it? A stunning house on the inside and interesting on the outside, the box making it more so. Here’s a link with some photos before windows were covered over for the conservation.

Lunch was enjoyed in the cafe. Onion bhaji wraps with mango chutney, butternut squash soup and a scone. All very nice.

I headed off to walk down to the seafront, whilst the others headed back to the house to collect our car. Thankfully Anne is quite small, she managed to squeeze onto the back seat but needed assistance to escape! My walk had me passing large posh houses that the Glasgow elite had lived in, they commuted to work by steamer on the River Clyde. The railway cuts across the hill, so you have to walk round to avoid the tracks deep in a cutting. Along Queen Street there were a whole load of vans, something was being filmed.

I arrived at a similar time to those in the car, a walk along the seafront was a windy affair, with a strong aroma from seaweed on what was visible of the beach. The walk ended up being curtailed, we all headed to shelter in Dino’s for some chilled medication, the darkest chocolate ice cream I’ve had in a long time.

With room for only 2.5 people in the car I walked back up the hill, filming still on going in a modern house nestled between two Victorian properties. An afternoon of chatting, knitting and watching a mine sweeper down on the loch before we climbed into the bigger car to head to Masala Twist for a very tasty curry.

Another lovely day. One which left us wondering if we should add something Mackintosh to Oleanna’s bow maybe. A tulip or rose wouldn’t be right, as they would be horizontal, flowers grow vertically. But maybe we’ll adjust her dashes and dots to something with a nod to the man to match her original sign writing.

Up And Down And Round. 21st March

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Road Trip Day 2.

A lovely sunny day, although the view across to Greenock was quite hazy, but it was a perfect day to go sightseeing.

**These three woofers were well in control of their motorhome**

We climbed into Anne and Alasdair’s car, plenty of space in the back for passengers, unlike our car. Mick navigated to cross Scotland, part way between Glasgow and Edinburgh, passing Stirling Castle high up looking over the Mosses. Where were we going? 55 miles or so. To where all boaters visiting Scotland must go, the Falkirk Wheel.

It was busy, a charity abseiling event taking place down from the aqueduct leading to the wheel. Four lines and plenty of nervous fundraisers awaiting their turn. We walked round, paid for tickets having arrived about twenty minutes before the next trip boat up the wheel. We stood in line then took our seats, second row on the boat and waited for it to get moving.

There was commentary by a chap and a recorded lady. Safety briefing: your exits are here, here and here. Then the doors were closed, a good blast of bow thruster to get us lined up to go onto the wheel. Once we’d bumped the side a bit the crew stepped off the boat and secured her bow and stern to the caisson.

The lady in front of me, in blue, would now feature in most of my photographs, trying to sneak a photo around her forever moving head meant taking around six or seven photos to get one reasonable one. But heyho, I suspect I’d have been the same if I’d had the front seat and someone would have complained about the lady in red!

Behind us the caisson was shut off, two pivoting doors under the water rise up to close off the wheel from the canal, similar to those on the Anderton Boat lift, except those work vertically. The water is pumped out from between the two doors. Then the wheel starts to turn. Large wheels on track move the caisson round the circular opening whilst the structure around us swings round and upwards. The wheel can go in both directions, clockwise and anticlockwise. There is a slight optical illusion whilst one side of the lift seems to be going down in the opening, yet it is still rising with the structure.

At the top the reverse was done with the caisson doors, this time in view ahead of us. We passed the abseilers all hooked up onto a safety line awaiting their descent. Up ahead is Roughcastle Tunnel, 334m long with coloured lights shone across the ceiling and a traffic light system to warn of on coming boats. Mrs Blue got in the way again, but I managed to only catch her grey locks.

Through the tunnel the trip boat winded, showing the bottom of the staircase lock above, water cascading over the gates, then we returned through the tunnel, the commentary breaking up whilst underground. Back to the lift to see the hazy view, everyone doing their best to spot the glint of the Kelpies over to the east. Try as we did they weren’t in view for us, maybe the bridge structure got in the way, maybe Mrs Blue did, but I did get a good view of both sets of cooling towers at Grangemouth.

The Falkirk Wheel connects the Forth and Clyde to the Union Canal. Opened in 2002 as part of the Millennium Link project, reconnecting the two canals for the first time since the 1930s. Planners opted for a 21st Century structure rather than recreating the 11 locks that used to raise boats. We looked on various maps to see where the locks used to be. The historic layer on Open Canal maps didn’t show us anything, it wasn’t obvious on either OS or Google maps. We knew where we’d find the information we wanted, Waterway Routes.

We don’t have much call for the Scottish waterways normally, so had to download a copy. Sure enough there they were marked in pale grey, now built over.

The wheel raises boats 24m, still another 11m to go to reach the height the 11 locks used to rise to reach the Union Canal. The locks fell into disuse and by 1933 were dismantled. BWB came into existence on the 1st January 1963, the day the Forth and Clyde Canal closed. In the 1990’s plans and funds started to come together for the Millenium Project. Tony Kettle led a team of architects who along with BWB, Arup, Butterley Engineering and RMJM came up with the design in 1999. The full structure was put together in Ripley, Derbyshire, before being dismantled and brought to site on 35 lorries. Roughcastle Tunnel was built with the two locks following so the route could go under the Roman Antonine Wall rather than through it. The wheel was opened by the Queen on the 24th May 2002 as part of the Golden Jubilee . Plenty more information can be found here

Back on dry land we headed for lunch, soup, scones and a generous jacket potato were enjoyed by all. Then a walk to Rough Castle. This took several attempts to get out from the wheel site and onto the correct track through lots of woodland.

**The outer wall of the castle to the left**

Rough Castle was the second smallest fort on the Antonine Wall, but it is the best-preserved. Alasdair filled us in on historical information, one of his specialist subjects. The wall was built across the central belt of Scotland from 140AD, forming the northwest frontier of the Roman Empire. So all those who thought they’d stopped at Hadrian’s Wall were wrong, they even made it further north too.

Back to the wheel for a comfort break, some chilled medication was consumed under the wheel as it descended with the next load of sightseers.

We drove back to Helensburgh via a local Co-op for a few bits. A tasty chicken casserole was awaiting us with the freshest of cabbage which had approximately two minutes out of the ground before being cooked. Yummy. All followed by cheese and oatcakes, well, we are in Scotland!

A lovely day.

It Started With A Purr. 20th March

Road Trip Day 1

Yesterday I got exceedingly excited. She, was, packing!

Did this mean?! Could this mean?! We’d be heading back to the world where the outside moves? I climbed into the bag cringing at the thought of the cat caravan coming out, maybe She’d let me travel in this bag instead.

Sadly for Tilly it didn’t mean heading back to Oleanna, despite the high decibels of her purring.

For several years we’ve talked about doing a road trip up to Scotland. Anne, one of Mick’s sisters moved there 13 years ago, followed about 4 years ago by some other friends. Things started to align a few weeks ago. A lodger willing to look after Tilly, the boat repaint not happening yet, reasonable weather, longer hours of daylight. We put our long thought about plan into action, tweeked dates a touch to fit in with other peoples plans and hired a car for a week, insured for two drivers.

Early Friday morning Mick headed off to pick up our Fiat 500. No openable sunroof, but we weren’t aiming to have more than the two of us inside, unlike in Mick’s teenage years! By now the penny had dropped with Tilly, I’d not packed enough bags for a return to the boat, so her purring turned into sulking under the bed. Since adopting Tilly ten years ago, this would be the longest she’d be apart from the two of us. I just hoped she’d be polite to Vicky our lodger for the next week.

Normally when we have a car we turn right at the bottom of the road, but this time it was left, we were heading northwards. A pause at Proudfoots to purchase some Easter eggs as gifts, then we were off along the winding roads up the North Yorkshire Moors. Here the fires that caused chaos and serious concern last summer have left black scars across the land.

Up to Newcastle then a left to have a pause at the Angel of the North. I’d hoped there might be some shore based facilities here. Only one available, a chilled medication van, doing a pretty good trade. We had a walk around Anthony Gormley’s giant structure, but a wee break was really required so we pressed on to a nearby Sainsbury’s. After a comfort break we sat and had a lovely view to eat our butties that I’d prepared for us both.

We headed on westwards to Carlisle and started to see signs to Scotland. All this time sat in the car I managed to finish off the first of my Felicity Edition Sockathon socks. It’s quite baby pink and not really my kind of sock, but that’s not the point of the Felicity Edition, although I have added a band of darker pink to help count rows.

Finally, we were into Scotland and carrying on heading northwards. In my late teens and early twenties I would drive friends up to Kirkcudbright for long weekends or weeks, but today we were bound for further north.

The satnav suggested a slightly quicker route through Glasgow, but that meant we missed out on the Erskine Bridge and got slightly lost in the process. We also missed out on driving along the old runway at the now closed Renfrew Airport that Mick’s Dad would have landed and taken off from when he was a pilot. Nowadays the M8 follows the course of the old runway. Maybe we’d manage that on our way back home. We did however get our first view of the Forth and Clyde Canal at a bridge.

Out the other side of Glasgow we headed for Helensburgh where Anne and Alasdair have lived for thirteen years. There was a very warm welcome and a very nice Shepherds Pie, thank you Anne.

Where To Now?

Over the last few months our aim has been to get to see family. Heading to London meant we’d be able to see all our siblings bar one with relative ease. But what about that missing one, Anne! How could we get to see Anne?

Anne isn’t in the south. In fact Anne is quite a lot lot further north. This would take some planning.

The first part of our route would see us leaving Rembrandt Gardens and retracing our steps back to Fradley Junction. Here though we would turn left and head up to Great Haywood, Stoke, Middlewich. Onto the Bridgewater Canal (you have to book that online now), up to Leigh and join the Leeds Liverpool Canal. West to the Rufford Branch, turn down there to Tarleton. Another booking would need to be made to cross from the River Douglas to the River Ribble, then up Savick Brook and The Ribble Link on to the Lancaster Canal.

Just over 22.5 miles of the Lancaster Canal would bring us to the Glasson Branch where we’d head down the locks to the Basin. This portion of the journey would amount to 315 miles 2.75 furlongs and take us through 197 locks so a bit more effort required than our trip to London from Goole. According to Canalplan this would take us 153 hours and 36 minutes, so at 7 hours a day (which we rarely do) it would take us 22 days, add in a few days off for bad weather, waiting for the tides to be right crossing to the Lancaster Canal, so make it 29 days.

Then our journey would require a touch more planning, mostly on the food and wine stakes as I’m not too sure whether we’d find many shops on route. We could visit The Port of Lancaster Smokehouse before we left, their smoked goods would last us a while.

Choosing a suitable tide we’d exit through the lock out onto the River Lune, keeping to the channel away from the numerous sandbanks, heading southwards before we turn to the west, crossing Morecombe Bay and heading to Barrow-in-Furness where we’d pull in for a night at West of Duddon Sands Windfarm.

This would be 19.42 miles, so at 6mph 3.25 hrs cruising time, we may however have had to wait for the tide to turn so as to avoid all the sand banks on Morecombe Bay.

Continuing northwards we’d pop out alongside Sandscale Haws National Nature Reserve, hugging the coast passing Sellafield to near to St Bees, where the coast to Coast walk starts. We’d beach here for the night. 32.6 miles, so a 6 hour day.

Still hugging the coast we would pass Whitehaven and pull in at Harrington Marina. A short day with only 10.5 miles, 1.75 hours. I think we’d have a meal at The Lifeboat Inn, except it doesn’t look like they serve food, so it would be smoked salmon again!

From here we’d set a course to the North West and Scotland. Yes we could pull in to Kirkcudbright but I’d rather beach at Brighouse Bay a favourite bay from my early college years. 25.75 miles , 4 to 5 hours cruise avoiding the rocky headland.

Our course would now be South West, crossing to the Isle of Whithorn, just over 11.8 miles, 2 hours, but there is a small harbour here and a Post Office with a shop where we could pick up some milk.

Brighouse to Isle of Whithorn to Cairnryan

From here we’d go back out to sea, cross from Cutcloy to the Mull of Galloway, then hug the coast, keeping an eye on the lighthouses at Crammag Head, Killantringan and Corsewall, popping into Loch Ryan to moor up with the P&O ferries at Cairnryan for a much needed break after the 69 miles of concentration taking 11.5 hours.

An almost due north course of 20 miles, 3.3 hours, would have us pull up on Ailsa Craig, where we’d make use of the little jetty.

Heading back to the west coast near Turnberry we’d skirt our way northwards to pull in at Troon. Here we’d stock up on a few bits and bobs at Morrisons and check in with the RNLI. 28.25 miles, 4.75 hours.

From Troon we’d cut across the bay avoiding the SSSI of Bogside Flats and what looks like a lovely beach. Hooking round into Ardrossan Harbour, an Asda and a Castle to visit here, well it’s only 9 miles so we’d have to fill the rest of the day.

Maybe we’ll stop off at the islands on the way back

We’d keep along the coast then to the east of Little Cumbrae and Great Cumbrae where we would take advantage of the Clydeport Road which stretches out into channel. 10 miles, maybe 2 hours to avoid larger vessles.

Northwards to Inverkip where we’d seek shelter in Kip Marina, hopefully they have a visitor mooring suitable for a narrowboat. Just over 11 miles, so 2 hours cruise.

Round to Gourock where it looks like there is a pontoon in the bay. Tilly may have to swim ashore for supplies. 6 miles, so we might just add this onto the day before or after, all weather dependant of course!

From here a North Easterly course will bring us across the mouth of Gare Loch and Helensburgh Ferry Terminal, 4 miles, so under an hour. Hopefully we won’t get in the way of the PS Waverley for a few days. From here we are kind of hoping that Anne might just come and pick us up by car as I think they live up the hill a touch.

So in total we would have 45 hours cruising at sea, over about 12 days, so back to our more normal cruising times, with one long day.

So Anne we’ll see you around the 11th 12th August. Hope that’s okay!

198 locks, 572.7 miles, 41 days, 4th sister, 1 plan, or maybe we could go up the east coast!

Narrowboat Oleanna

Travels of Narrowboat Oleanna

Category Archives: Scotland

Furry Purry Cat. 26th March

White Tops And Red Tails. 25th March

Quite Scottish. 24th March

Lochs and Locks. 23rd March

Over The Top. 22nd March

Up And Down And Round. 21st March

It Started With A Purr. 20th March

Where To Now?