Up And Down And Round. 21st March

Road Trip Day 2.

A lovely sunny day, although the view across to Greenock was quite hazy, but it was a perfect day to go sightseeing.

These three woofers were well in control of their motorhome

We climbed into Anne and Alasdair’s car, plenty of space in the back for passengers, unlike our car. Mick navigated to cross Scotland, part way between Glasgow and Edinburgh, passing Stirling Castle high up looking over the Mosses. Where were we going? 55 miles or so. To where all boaters visiting Scotland must go, the Falkirk Wheel.

The wheel with absailers

It was busy, a charity abseiling event taking place down from the aqueduct leading to the wheel. Four lines and plenty of nervous fundraisers awaiting their turn. We walked round, paid for tickets having arrived about twenty minutes before the next trip boat up the wheel. We stood in line then took our seats, second row on the boat and waited for it to get moving.

There was commentary by a chap and a recorded lady. Safety briefing: your exits are here, here and here. Then the doors were closed, a good blast of bow thruster to get us lined up to go onto the wheel. Once we’d bumped the side a bit the crew stepped off the boat and secured her bow and stern to the caisson.

Anne, Alasdair, Mick and Pip

The lady in front of me, in blue, would now feature in most of my photographs, trying to sneak a photo around her forever moving head meant taking around six or seven photos to get one reasonable one. But heyho, I suspect I’d have been the same if I’d had the front seat and someone would have complained about the lady in red!

Behind us the caisson was shut off, two pivoting doors under the water rise up to close off the wheel from the canal, similar to those on the Anderton Boat lift, except those work vertically. The water is pumped out from between the two doors. Then the wheel starts to turn. Large wheels on track move the caisson round the circular opening whilst the structure around us swings round and upwards. The wheel can go in both directions, clockwise and anticlockwise. There is a slight optical illusion whilst one side of the lift seems to be going down in the opening, yet it is still rising with the structure.

At the top the reverse was done with the caisson doors, this time in view ahead of us. We passed the abseilers all hooked up onto a safety line awaiting their descent. Up ahead is Roughcastle Tunnel, 334m long with coloured lights shone across the ceiling and a traffic light system to warn of on coming boats. Mrs Blue got in the way again, but I managed to only catch her grey locks.

Through the tunnel the trip boat winded, showing the bottom of the staircase lock above, water cascading over the gates, then we returned through the tunnel, the commentary breaking up whilst underground. Back to the lift to see the hazy view, everyone doing their best to spot the glint of the Kelpies over to the east. Try as we did they weren’t in view for us, maybe the bridge structure got in the way, maybe Mrs Blue did, but I did get a good view of both sets of cooling towers at Grangemouth.

A better view than on the way up

The Falkirk Wheel connects the Forth and Clyde to the Union Canal. Opened in 2002 as part of the Millennium Link project, reconnecting the two canals for the first time since the 1930s. Planners opted for a 21st Century structure rather than recreating the 11 locks that used to raise boats. We looked on various maps to see where the locks used to be. The historic layer on Open Canal maps didn’t show us anything, it wasn’t obvious on either OS or Google maps. We knew where we’d find the information we wanted, Waterway Routes.

We don’t have much call for the Scottish waterways normally, so had to download a copy. Sure enough there they were marked in pale grey, now built over.

The wheel raises boats 24m, still another 11m to go to reach the height the 11 locks used to rise to reach the Union Canal. The locks fell into disuse and by 1933 were dismantled. BWB came into existence on the 1st January 1963, the day the Forth and Clyde Canal closed. In the 1990’s plans and funds started to come together for the Millenium Project. Tony Kettle led a team of architects who along with BWB, Arup, Butterley Engineering and RMJM came up with the design in 1999. The full structure was put together in Ripley, Derbyshire, before being dismantled and brought to site on 35 lorries. Roughcastle Tunnel was built with the two locks following so the route could go under the Roman Antonine Wall rather than through it. The wheel was opened by the Queen on the 24th May 2002 as part of the Golden Jubilee . Plenty more information can be found here

Back on dry land we headed for lunch, soup, scones and a generous jacket potato were enjoyed by all. Then a walk to Rough Castle. This took several attempts to get out from the wheel site and onto the correct track through lots of woodland.

The outer wall of the castle to the left

Rough Castle was the second smallest fort on the Antonine Wall, but it is the best-preserved. Alasdair filled us in on historical information, one of his specialist subjects. The wall was built across the central belt of Scotland from 140AD, forming the northwest frontier of the Roman Empire. So all those who thought they’d stopped at Hadrian’s Wall were wrong, they even made it further north too.

Back to the wheel for a comfort break, some chilled medication was consumed under the wheel as it descended with the next load of sightseers.

The misty view from Helensburgh

We drove back to Helensburgh via a local Co-op for a few bits. A tasty chicken casserole was awaiting us with the freshest of cabbage which had approximately two minutes out of the ground before being cooked. Yummy. All followed by cheese and oatcakes, well, we are in Scotland!

A lovely day.

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