Category Archives: Museums

Pregnancy Trekking. 17th February

Ellesmere Port Basin
One end to the other
Last night we realised that where we are moored is opposite the Holiday Inn’s function room and we wondered if we would be kept awake tonight with a noisy disco from a wedding or some such. Mick ventured out of the museum to find a Saturday paper, he succeeded at a petrol station, most probably having had to dice with death vaulting over barriers on the big roads around here. But he returned safely for breakfast.
Raddle Wharf. The Holiday Inn on the right  with Oleanna nestled in behind the big ship Cuddington
Across in the function room we could see people milling around, a bit early for a wedding. Maybe it was a conference. I zoomed in with my camera to some things that were on a table at the end of the room, sadly I didn’t take a photo. Next to what looked like a raffle prize of a basket of fruit was a display board. There was a map of Africa, a photo of a group of people in football shirts and across the top it said Pregnancy Trekking. All the people in the room were women of various ages, but mostly ladies who had long passed the days of child bearing. Maybe it said Pregnancy Training! They spent the day in that room, had lunch and at one point the curtains were firmly closed, either a film or some group activity that required some privacy.
Looking down the locks
Anyhow, after breakfast we walked up to reception to finish checking in. Our mooring fee for two nights was the entrance fee for us both for the first day followed by £4 a night for Oleanna, £23.50. The entrance fee covers us for a full years admittance here and at The National Waterways Museum Gloucester too. This is very handy as we plan on heading to the Gloucester Sharpness Canal this year, just hope it reopens after a refurbishment before we get there.
Not bathing huts but offices overlooking the Ship Canal, the Mersey and John Lennon AirportA slipway where boats were hauled out at high tideThe Ellesmere Canal was Thomas Telfords first canal building job, linking the Mersey to the Dee at Chester and then the Severn (this section was never achieved). Ellesmere Port was a holiday destination in the 1790’s, very hard to believe now. Golden sands, a modern bathing house and the tourists were brought here by packet boat from Liverpool and Chester. The first canal basin was small, with only a lock keepers cottage, an inn, stables and an engine to pump water from the upper basin.
Map before the Ship Canal was built
The red dot is where we are moored
By 1843 a new dock was opened, updated with warehouses, offices and upgraded locks, it could now be a busy commercial port. New links with the Trent and Mersey, Birmingham and Liverpool Canals meant that the port grew quickly. The Manchester Ship Canal opened in 1894, bringing with it much industry. The Shropshire Union and Railway company advertised itself as the ‘first port on the Manchester Ship Canal’. Metal work, oil and chemicals all brought with it a growth in the population, no longer a holiday destination, just a  mass of industry! A lack of housing and increase in pollution followed.  The port expanded.
Model of the docks
No warehouses around us today
How the lower basin was
Oleanna would just be through that archway
Moving goods on and off ships and canal boats took time, so hydraulic cranes were used around the docks to speed the process up all powered from a central Pump House. Later a dock railway did a similar job. They even produced their own gas on site, so work could continue through the night. Where Oleanna is moored at the moment there used to be warehouses spanning the islands, with archways below where boats could be loaded and unloaded. There are still signs of the supporting pillars as we walk to and from from Oleanna.
The Pump House
In 1956 the docks closed, the site decayed and buildings became derelict. In 1971 an enthusiastic group wanting to preserve boats and the traditions of the canals decided to take action. They created The North West Museum of Inland Navigation, with local support Ellesmere Port became their home. The Toll House was the first to be restored and in June 1976 it housed a small exhibition. In 1980 The Boat Museum Trust was formed and in 1999 it was renamed the National Waterways Museum.
Victoria ArmMossdale in a specially built cradle so she can dry out slowly and be preservedLast year a project funded by the Arts Council England Resilience Fund meant that many decaying sunk boats could be lifted out from the water and put into storage off site so that restoration work can be carried out on them. The Victoria Arm has funding to help develop it into a dry dock to be used to help conserve the museums boats and possibly for commercial use. The largest of the museums boats Cuddington (our nearest neighbour) will be able to fit in the dock.
Different jointsBlacksmiths forge with six forgesWe spent the morning exploring the slipway, carpenters workshops, stables, power house.
1830s living room1950s living room1950s knitting, pre decimalisationThen having home on our doorstep we returned to Oleanna for lunch before visiting the four Porters cottages which have been laid out spanning from 1830’s to 1950’s. Then we moved on to the Island Warehouse, but only managed to do the ground floor. There is so much to read and look at, things we thought we knew about, but there is so much more. Originally we thought we’d spend a day doing the museum, but because we can, we’ll finish what we started tomorrow, we may even stay another night.
Looking up the Ship Canal

0 locks, 0 miles, 1 private museum, 4 cottages, 52 pregnancy trekkers, 4mm needles, 2 much to read, 2 much to take in, 2nd day needed, 1 quiet night on board.

One Tree In Chester. 7th February

Chester

Frosty ash bin

A frost greeted us Wednesday morning. Down on the Dee Branch there was a layer of cat ice. Around us was still fluid but back towards the staircase lock there were patches of ice. This is why we’ve stayed put in Chester, waiting for the chilly spell to pass and for the canal to remain liquid so that we don’t get stuck up towards Ellesmere Port. Of course this morning was the morning that Tilly decided to be that little bit more adventurous and manage to cross the towpath, I hadn’t spotted the ice when she went out! I’ve been looking at the one and only tree in Chester for days, weeks, years now! It’s a bit spikey but at least I conquered it. This didn’t take long and anyhow it was cold!

Keeping amused whilst in Chester. Not sure my socks will survive our stay

As we had our breakfast a chap appeared with a windlass from down on the Dee Branch. He proceeded to empty the lock, crackling the covering of ice as the levels altered. We first thought that maybe the level gradually drops on the branch, so he was topping it up. Then another chap appeared and pushed open a gate as a boat was reversed, with difficulty, thorough the ice to the chamber. They brought the boat up backwards and reversed it from the lock where it has been sat all day, maybe waiting for some work to be done on it.

The museum

A tourist day for us. Grosvenor Museum seemed like a good place to head.

The stairwellPeacockOpened in a purpose built building in 1886, the Grosvenor Museum houses artefacts from both Chester Society for Natural Science and Chester Archaeological Society. An extension was added in 1894, by 1938 the City of Chester took over full control of the museum, looking after the collections and displays. This and admission being free shows somewhat. The building is grand from the outside (peacocks decorating the gables) and the mosaics on the floors and under the dado rail must have taken some work.

Mr and Mrs RomanRoman garrison of DevaThe Romans are to Chester what the Vikings are to York, a large tourist attraction. A large collection of Roman gravestones fills one room, with information on those portrayed in the carvings. A video tells the story of one centurion and his wife, lots of interesting detail on what he wore and their life at Deva the Roman Garrison that became Chester. A large model shows you the layout of the garrison and how it compares to the city’s layout today. Hot water pipes and roofing tiles fill more display cabinets. There is plenty to read, just a shame nobody seems to have proof read it.

Victorian hallwayEdwardian bathroom

1920s Scout leader

Behind the main building is a link into a period house, 20 Castle Street, which was saved from demolition and it’s first period room a Victorian Parlour was put on display in 1955. The house jumps around with it’s displays, Victorian, Stewart, 1920’s, Victorian again, Edwardian, 1970’s all very higgledy piggledy. As we climbed the stairs we felt like we were in a hall of mirrors as the walls and landings didn’t marry up, the floors changing angle every which way possible, it’s possibly the most seasick I’ve felt in a long time.

King's Arms seat

Back in the main building are collections of stuffed animals and a very large silver collection just down the corridor from the Honourable Incorporation of the King’s Arms Kitchen. This was a drinking, gentleman’s club dating from 1770 and took up residency at the King’s Arms Kitchen public house. This recreation of the room is now used for school parties to have their packed lunches and tours to await their guide.

Today'sKingfisher photosThis chap sat very patiently for me to take photos of today.

0 locks, 0 miles, 1 tree! 5 minutes off the boat, 1st cat ice, 1 reversed lock, 1 museum not to add to John’s list, 1 loud speaking lady,  1 fish crumble for tea.